SOMETHING FISHY

asta. Parmigiano. Garlic. Olive oil. And fish sauce. Fish sauce? If you had to name staples of La Cucina Italiana, we’d probably agree on the first four. But fish sauce? Not so much. Yet garum, a savoury condiment made from sundried fish guts – and all its various iterations – were once cornerstones of Italian cooking. And ancient Romans spread a love for this funky, pungent, salty garum throughout Europe. Fast-forward to 2022 and this umami explosion is enjoying a new moment in the sun, with ambitious chefs brewing new interpretations, pushing garum in wildly innovative