Perennial Favourites

We all have our favourite restaurants—destinations that brought us some of the best meals we’ve ever had. Explaining it might even involve a few dramatisations, and possibly vocalisations to emphasise our delight. We may also enthuse about a particular dish. It may not be the main course, but it is a dish that has not only swept us off our feet, but one we continue to find new reasons to love. It’s a dish that continues to feature prominently on the menu, evolved and sometimes elevated to affirm its role in the success of a restaurant.

Some chefs, though, prefer to avoid labelling such standouts as a signature dish—especially when their well-earned standing as arbiters of good taste supports the luxury they enjoy as constant innovators. Yet these very dishes seem to speak the loudest about a chef’s winning style, not to mention its ability to stand the test of time.

GARDEN VARIETY

I remember the first time I tried the English Garden at Jaan By Kirk Westaway, introduced as part of the chef’s take on modern