Homemade harissa sauce sparks ordinary grilled chicken

We grill several nights a week for the better part of six months a year. To keep things fresh, I employ a variety of spice rubs, marinades, barbecue sauces and basting sauces. Lately, a spicy red harissa sauce finds its way onto everything I want to grill, from chicken and fish to pork chops and eggplant.

I've made numerous harissa sauces since my days as a test cook at Cuisine magazine. For one issue, we explored the flavors of Morocco. My affection for this highly aromatic cuisine never wavers - there are always preserved lemons in my refrigerator, orange and rose water in the pantry, and seasoning blends in the drawer. I usually stock several versions of harissa in jars in the fridge.

Like salsa or chimichurri, harissa proves a great condiment to serve alongside grilled meats and vegetables. Harissa, says Robert Carrier in his classic cookbook