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Did You Punt Because Your Focus is On the Wrong Thing?

Did You Punt Because Your Focus is On the Wrong Thing?

FromBreaking Beta | The Science of Climbing


Did You Punt Because Your Focus is On the Wrong Thing?

FromBreaking Beta | The Science of Climbing

ratings:
Length:
56 minutes
Released:
Aug 17, 2022
Format:
Podcast episode

Description

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that explores how our attention - and where we focus it - can impact our performance:
Links between Attention, Performance Pressure, and Movement in Skilled Motor Action
Authored by Rob Gray; published in Current Directions in Psychological Science in June, 2011.
They’ll discuss the difference between focusing attention internally or externally, and how each has been shown to affect athletic performance, especially when the pressure is on. They’ll break down four ways that attention focus has been shown to impact movement, and what this information could mean for climbers.
 
*Additional studies/resources mentioned in this episode:
Performance of gymnastics skill benefits from an external focus of attention
Authored by Reza Abdollahipour, Gabriele Wulf, Rudolf Psotta, and Miriam Palomo Nieto; published in the Journal of Sports Sciences, 2015.
Internal and External Focus of Attention in a Novice Form Sport
Authored by Gavin P. Lawrence, Vicky M. Gottwald, James Hardy, and Michael A. Khan; published in Research Quarterly for Exercise and Sport, 2011.
 
New episodes of Breaking Beta drop on Wednesdays. Make sure you’re subscribed, leave us a review, and share!
And please, tell all of your friends who are constantly telling you that “You’ll send if when you do that, you just focus on pulling with your lats instead of your traps,” that you have the perfect podcast for them.
 
Breaking Beta is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning, and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Find full episode transcripts, citations, and more at our website.
Season 2 of Breaking Beta is proudly supported by Gnarly Sports Nutrition. For a limited time, Breaking Beta listeners can take 15% off their purchase using the code BETA15 at checkout! Or simply click the link above to shop and have the discount automatically applied.
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If you have questions, comments, or want to suggest a paper we should cover, find us at our Community + Knowledge Hub.
Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.
Released:
Aug 17, 2022
Format:
Podcast episode

Titles in the series (28)

Kris Hampton and Paul Corsaro from Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning discuss the research and studies that may or may not be applicable to the climbing world.