39 min listen
Is This the Best Hangboard Protocol?
Is This the Best Hangboard Protocol?
ratings:
Length:
49 minutes
Released:
Dec 8, 2021
Format:
Podcast episode
Description
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss what might be the most popular study in all of climbing:
The Effects of Two Maximum Grip Strength Training Methods Using the Same Effort Duration and Different Edge Depth on Grip Endurance in Elite Climbers
authored by Eva Lopez Rivera and Juan Jose Gonzales-Badillo; published in Sports Technology in 2012.
They’ll try to determine whether this study provides evidence for one hangboard protocol to rule them all, or if folks have just been misinterpreting the data. Tune in to see who wins in the finger strength battle between Minimum Edge Depth and Maximum Added Weight!
New episodes drop on Wednesdays. Make sure you’re subscribed, leave us a review, and share!
And please tell all your friends who are constantly telling you that their hang protocol is the number one best protocol, that you have the perfect podcast for them.
Breaking Beta is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning, and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Find full episode transcripts, citations, and more at our website.
Follow Kris and Breaking Beta on Instagram
Follow Paul and Crux Conditioning on Instagram
Check out both of our Kettlebells for Climbers ebooks!
If you have questions, comments, or want to suggest a paper we should cover, find us at our Community + Knowledge Hub.
Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.
The Effects of Two Maximum Grip Strength Training Methods Using the Same Effort Duration and Different Edge Depth on Grip Endurance in Elite Climbers
authored by Eva Lopez Rivera and Juan Jose Gonzales-Badillo; published in Sports Technology in 2012.
They’ll try to determine whether this study provides evidence for one hangboard protocol to rule them all, or if folks have just been misinterpreting the data. Tune in to see who wins in the finger strength battle between Minimum Edge Depth and Maximum Added Weight!
New episodes drop on Wednesdays. Make sure you’re subscribed, leave us a review, and share!
And please tell all your friends who are constantly telling you that their hang protocol is the number one best protocol, that you have the perfect podcast for them.
Breaking Beta is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning, and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Find full episode transcripts, citations, and more at our website.
Follow Kris and Breaking Beta on Instagram
Follow Paul and Crux Conditioning on Instagram
Check out both of our Kettlebells for Climbers ebooks!
If you have questions, comments, or want to suggest a paper we should cover, find us at our Community + Knowledge Hub.
Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.
Released:
Dec 8, 2021
Format:
Podcast episode
Titles in the series (28)
Is Finger Pulp the Key to Crimping?: In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss the study that led to climbers everywhere both blaming and training their fingertip pulp: Measuring Lifting Forces in Rock Climbing: Effect of Hold Size and Fingertip Structure authored by Roger Bourne, Mark Halaki,... by Breaking Beta | The Science of Climbing