Paddle Scotland: The Best Places to Go with a Paddleboard, Kayak or Canoe

By Alasdair Findlay

The definitive guide to seeing all the wonders of Scotland under paddle power.

Scotland is one of the most appealing destinations for kayakers, canoeists and paddleboarders from all over the world. That's because if there is one country best seen from the water, it is Scotland. Loch Ness contains more water than all of the rivers and lakes in England and Wales combined – and there are 27,000 other lochs to explore as well. What's more, with 125,000km of rivers and 800 islands, there's always somewhere new to paddle. And the spectacular Scottish scenery only adds to the appeal.

This book is the complete guide to paddling the wonderfully varied waterways, lochs, rivers and coasts of Scotland, compiled by Ally Findlay, a paddleboard instructor and tour guide based in Glasgow. He covers all regions of Scotland:
- South Scotland, including the coast at Kirkcudbright and Fleet Bay, and inland to Loch Ken, and the Galloway Canoe Trail
- Central Scotland, including Loch Lomond and the beautiful Trossachs National Park
- East Coast Scotland, including the Forth Bridges
- West Coast Scotland, from the coast at Arasaig to lochs and rivers including the amazing Rannoch Moor
- Scottish Highlands, which become a magical playground in the northwest following the Inverpoly routes

From short paddles to day trips into the stunning wilderness, this book covers excursions for all occasions and all levels of ability, explaining where to begin and what to look out for. Most are well suited to canoe and kayak, but going further, some are even better explored standing up on a paddleboard, including cross-Scotland routes such as the Shin System.

With beautiful and evocative photography, and clear maps, this is the essential guide to seeing Scotland under paddle power, exploring where to go, how to get there and what to see en route.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
• Release date: Apr 27, 2023
• ISBN: 9781399401463

Alasdair Findlay

Ally Findlay is a WSA-accredited paddlesports instructor, working with people of all levels, from beginners up to aspiring trainers. He runs Glasgow Paddleboarders Co, through which he offers guided SUP tours around Scottish waters. He is a part-time primary school teacher.

Book preview

CONTENTS

LOCH LOMOND AND THE TROSSACHS NATIONAL PARK

01 Balmaha, Loch Lomond, Inchcailloch and Clairinsh Island

02 Milarrochy Bay, Loch Lomond and Inchfad

03 Luss, Loch Lomond, Inchconnachan and Inchtavannach

04 Inchmurrin, Loch Lomond, Arden to Inchmurrin

05 Loch Achray to Loch Venachar

06 Loch Ard and the Narrows

07 Loch Chon

08 Loch Earn

THE EAST

09 Arbroath Cliffs

10 Catterline Bay to Stonehaven

11 Montrose Bay and Basin

12 The River Dee, Banchory to Maryculter

13 Portknockie, Bow Fiddle Rock

14 Nairn

CENTRAL BELT AND TAYSIDE

15 The River Clyde

16 The Firth of Forth

17 The River Forth

18 The River Teith

19 The Forth and Clyde Canal

20 River Lyon into the River Tay

21 River Tummel into the River Tay

THE SOUTH

22 Loch Ken

23 St Mary’s Loch and Loch of the Lowes

24 Ayr Harbour

NORTH COAST, CAITHNESS, SUTHERLAND AND FAR NORTH

25 Loch Brora

26 Loch Shin

27 Dunnet Bay

28 Loch Hope

29 The Rabbit Islands of Talmine

30 Handa Island

31 Tarbat Ness Lighthouse

THE WEST

32 Loch Morar and the Islands

33 Càrna, Oronsay and Loch Sunart

34 Loch Leven and Glencoe

35 Oban and Kerrera

36 Loch Awe

THE SCOTTISH ISLANDS

37 Mull, Tobermory Bay

38 Mull, The Ross of Mull

39 Arran, Holy Isle

40 Eriskay, Outer Hebrides

Island providers

References

Acknowledgements

Photo credits

LOCH LOMOND AND THE TROSSACHS NATIONAL PARK

Over half of Scotland’s population lives within a one hour drive of somewhere in Trossachs National Park. It stretches from Loch Eck in the far west, Balloch on the Bonnie banks of Loch Lomond in the south, to the edge of Loch Earn and Loch Venachar in the east and Loch Lubhair and the River Dochart in the north cruising the length of the north edge of the park.

There are bodies of water galore in this part of Scotland and there is endless choice for where to paddle. At 1,865 square kilometres and with a boundary length of 350km it is a huge playground for paddlers of all types. Sea kayakers can roam the larger sea lochs of Loch Long and Goil, paddleboarders too can explore the many islands and sights of Loch Lomond, with kayakers and canoeists having plenty of white water if they so desire. There are 21 Munros meaning lots of valleys for water. There are 22 large lochs, with lots of smaller ones too. Some 50 rivers also wend through the park. To say visitors to the park are spoiled for choice is an understatement.

Making stars.

ANECDOTE FROM LOCH LOMOND

Inchcailloch beach.

The National Park is a special place for me as it is where I started Glasgow Paddleboarders Co, and where I continue to guide adventure trips, run lessons, and support and train the paddleboarding instructors of tomorrow.

Loch Lomond has to be one of the best places in the world to get out and paddle. It has so much to offer. Islands, villages, cafes, history, hotels and lots and lots of water. The weather is different every time you visit and this in itself makes it worth going to see. From the north coast at Ardlui to the south coast at Balloch the loch stretches over 35km. From Luss in the west to Balmaha in the east it reaches around 6km. There are 22 islands and 27 smaller islets on the loch. One of my favourite times of year is when I run a Loch Lomond paddleboarding holiday with my good friend Josh, a paddleboarding guide who makes the trip all the way up from the New Forest on the south coast of England because he loves the area so much.

Josh brings up clients, friends and family to experience the loch during a 3-night hotel stay. The Glasgow folk come too to escape busy lives, but often the clients we have on the trip paddle on the canals of London or on the south coast of England and don’t have the luxury of mountains and huge lochs on their doorsteps. The excitement on arrival is always high if they are experiencing this for the first time.

When we get out on the water, if the weather is behaving, people immediately feel relaxed. They can’t really believe the beauty of the place and cheeks spread wide with smiles. And those smiles last for days as we travel from island to island, taking in the sights, looking out for wildlife, identifying mountains around us, checking the wind and wondering if we’ll get to downwind back.

In July 2022 we paddled from Balmaha across to Inchmurrin Island and were lucky enough to get to watch not one but two acrobatic white tailed eagles calling to each other. They stayed with us on our paddle and as we later walked across the entire island, they ducked and dived down into the water, looking for their next catch. An awesome experience for anyone, and we were very lucky to witness it.

Paddling in open water is great when the weather is okay. Doing it in a group is even better because we can all support each other paddling further than we’ve paddled before. Whether with others or alone, this is a great area to visit to see some of the best of Scotland, and in particular Loch Lomond in all its beauty.

01 BALMAHA, LOCH LOMOND, INCHCAILLOCH AND CLAIRINSH ISLAND

Launching from Balmaha pier, cruising past several small boats and yachts, you soon find yourself glaring at an ancient Jurassic Park-style cliff. On approach you’ll see a small beach, which is a delight and can help you get out of the wind that can rip down from the north of the loch. Bring your A-game for paddling across the first channel because the wind can make this a tough shift.

The Lowdown

Background Loch Lomond is what can only be described as beauty and the beast. It lies on the Highland Boundary Fault Line, a fracture in the earth’s crust deep underground. This crack separates the Northern Highlands and the Southern Lowlands. Munros and Corbetts surround the loch, which is the largest lake by area in the British Isles at 71 km². The scenery visible from the centre of the loch is stunning and on a calm day the sense of peace is incredible, but don’t underestimate the wind speeds that can batter the loch, particularly on harsh winter days.

A brief history Inchcailloch means 'island of the old woman'. In the 700s an Irish nun settled on the island, which was apparently home to a nunnery. At the top of the island there is a graveyard, which is the only Scheduled Monument around Loch Lomond. A church was built here in the 13th century and people travelled from Balmaha to worship on the island.

A reflective trip with Gladiator Tourers.

The paddle There are different launch points around Balmaha to circumnavigate Inchcailloch, but the easiest access is from the small beach beside the statue of Tom Weir. There are usually mallards lounging around and it isn’t easily missed. It’s a calm harbour to launch from and leads out to the north-south channel which on a windy day can make crossing to the island tough. A small beach lies directly below the large cliffs you see as you paddle across. This is a great meeting point, and where you can decide on whether to take a clockwise or anticlockwise route. The islands provide fantastic shelter on the loch so paddling on the side opposite the wind usually allows for a calm paddle.

A sunset adventure with Glasgow Paddleboarders Co.

Paddling on the south side of the island will give you views across to Clairinsh and further south to Ross Priory. Torrinch, Creinch and Inchmurrin all lead directly south west. 2km from the launch point is the southernmost tip of the island. Travelling between Torrinch and Inchcailloch brings the stunning sight of the beach, Port Bawn, on the south end of the island. On the beach there is a campsite (with toilets), which is often used by groups of friends at weekends looking to escape the mainland.

Out of the bay, travelling north in a clockwise direction, there are views north across to Inchfad and the hills above Luss. The Glen Striddle Horseshoe is truly a sight to behold. To the north of the loch you will get stunning views to the Arrochar Alps and in the west Ben Lomond looms high above the loch, the top regularly covered with mist. The rocks jet out from the island on this side and the water is relatively shallow. A 2km paddle will bring you back to the pier at Balmaha, but again, pay attention to the winds. As you travel back into Balmaha, Conic Hill is particularly noteworthy. There is a small boat that takes passengers from the pier in Balmaha to the island. The Oak Tree Inn also has a jetty, which can be busy with boats.

Looking down past Inchcailloch.

The paddle round Inchcailloch is different every time that you do it, with the rich green of the trees in the summer, and golden oranges in the winter. The wind also changes the movement of the water every time you visit, depending on the direction it is blowing.

Well worth a visit at sunrise or sunset.

Wildlife In the heart of summer ospreys can be seen, and if you’re very lucky at night, you might hear or see the white fallow deer swimming between islands. Keep your eyes peeled for white tailed eagles too.

Food stop You can’t go to Balmaha without stopping in at The Oak Tree Inn, where the most difficult part of your day will be what to choose from the fantastic menu. The hotel is owned by the local Fraser family who have a fantastic team working for them who go above and beyond to make your stay the best it can be.

Other activities The West Highland Way runs through Balmaha and there are lots of nice walking routes in and around the local area.

Climb Conic Hill if you fancy a walk with stunning views over the loch. At 361 m it offers breathtaking views of the islands as far as the eye can see.

Yvonne McBroom gazes up to Ben Lomond.

02 MILARROCHY BAY, LOCH LOMOND AND INCHFAD

Inchfad is a pirate’s dream, an island used for smuggling and whisky production in the 18th and 19th centuries. It was once farmed and boasts its own canal, which would make for an incredible place for a concert, as the acoustics inside put even great music venues to shame. The island is home to white fallow deer, plus one or two stray sheep.

The Lowdown

Background The rocky bay at Milarrochy is a hive of activity in the summer, with city dwellers escaping to find some rest in the beauty of the Loch Lomond National Park. The bay looks over to many of the islands in Loch Lomond and directly faces Inchcruin and Bucinch, which are just over 2km away across exposed water. The journey round the privately owned island of Inchfad to the south west keeps paddlers closer to the mainland and will avoid them entering such open expanses of water.

A brief history Inchfad