Fodor's Maine Coast: with Acadia National Park

By Fodor's Travel Guides

Whether you want to eat lobster, sail on a windjammer, or hike Cadillac Mountain, the local Fodor's travel experts in Maine are here to help! Fodor's Maine Coast: with Acadia National Park guidebook is packed with maps, carefully curated recommendations, and everything else you need to simplify your trip-planning process and make the most of your time.

This brand new title has been designed with an easy-to-read layout, fresh information, and beautiful color photos.

Fodor's Maine Coast travel guide includes:

• AN ILLUSTRATED ULTIMATE EXPERIENCES GUIDE to the top things to see and do
• MULTIPLE ITINERARIES to effectively organize your days and maximize your time
• MORE THAN 20 DETAILED MAPS to help you navigate confidently
• COLOR PHOTOS throughout to spark your wanderlust!
• HONEST RECOMMENDATIONS FROM LOCALS on the best sights, restaurants, hotels, nightlife, shopping, performing arts, activities, side-trips, and more
• PHOTO-FILLED “BEST OF” FEATURES on “Best Seafood Shacks,” “Best Beaches,” and more
• TRIP-PLANNING TOOLS AND PRACTICAL TIPS including when to go, getting around, beating the crowds, and saving time and money
• HISTORICAL AND CULTURAL INSIGHTS providing rich context on the local people, politics, art, architecture, cuisine, music, geography and more
• SPECIAL FEATURES on “Maine Coast with Kids” and “What to Eat and Drink in Maine”
• LOCAL WRITERS to help you find the under-the-radar gems
• UP-TO-DATE COVERAGE ON: The Kennebunks, Ogunquit, Portland, Freeport, Boothbay, Bath, Rockland, Rockport, Camden, Monhegan Island, Bar Harbor, Acadia National Park

Planning on visiting other destinations in New England? Check out Fodor's New England, Fodor's Boston, or Fodor's Maine, Vermont, and New Hampshire.

*Important note for digital editions: The digital edition of this guide does not contain all the images or text included in the physical edition.

ABOUT FODOR'S AUTHORS: Each Fodor's Travel Guide is researched and written by local experts. Fodor's has been offering expert advice for all tastes and budgets for over 80 years. For more travel inspiration, you can sign up for our travel newsletter at fodors.com/newsletter/signup, or follow us @FodorsTravel on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter. We invite you to join our friendly community of travel experts at fodors.com/community to ask any other questions and share your experience with us!

• Language: English
• Publisher: Fodor's Travel
• Release date: Mar 21, 2023
• ISBN: 9781640975897

Fodor's Travel Guides

For over 80 years, Fodor's Travel has been a trusted resource offering expert travel advice for every stage of a traveler's trip. We hire local writers who know their destinations better than anyone else, allowing us to provide the best travel recommendations for all tastes and budgets in over 7,500 worldwide destinations. Our books make it possible for every trip to be a trip of a lifetime.

Book preview

Chapter 1: EXPERIENCE THE MAINE COAST

15 ULTIMATE EXPERIENCES

The Maine Coast offers terrific experiences that should be on every traveler’s list. Here are Fodor’s top picks for a memorable trip.

1 Explore Acadia National Park

At New England’s only national park, drive or bike the 27-mile Park Loop Road, climb the 1,530-foot summit of Cadillac Mountain, or explore miles of trails and carriage roads. (Ch. 8)

2 Experience historic and hip Portland

Old Port and the East End offer eclectic restaurants and stylish boutiques, while the Arts District has the excellent Portland Museum of Art. (Ch. 4)

3 Eat a Maine lobster

A trip to Maine isn’t complete without a meal featuring the state crustacean. Whether it’s a lobster dinner, a bowl of lobster stew, or a lobster roll, bring your appetite.

4 Sail on a windjammer

Pretty Camden Harbor and nearby Rockland are home ports for a fleet of owner-operated schooners that take guests on voyages around Maine’s rugged coast, peninsulas, and islands. (Ch. 6)

5 Eat your way through Portland

With renowned farm-to-table restaurants, waterfront seafood shacks, eclectic Asian and Latin eateries, and scads of artisan specialty food shops, Portland boasts a vibrant culinary scene. (Ch. 4)

6 Cruise Casco Bay

Via brightly painted ferries, take a narrated cruise on the Mailboat Run, or hop off to explore one of the larger islands on foot or by bike. (Ch. 4, 5)

7 Hop over the border to Campobello Island

From Lubec, it’s just a 2-mile drive—which includes crossing a short international bridge (bring your passport!) to visit this international park, which preserves the summer cottage of FDR’s family. (Ch. 10)

8 Shop at L.L. Bean

More than 3 million shoppers ply the aisles of the world-famous mail-order merchandiser’s flagship store in Freeport. Visit any time—it’s open 24 hours. (Ch. 5)

9 See the first sunrise in the U.S.

West Quoddy Head Light has stood at the nation’s easternmost point of land since 1806. It’s a majestic place to watch the country’s earliest sunrise each morning. (Ch. 10)

10 Go lighthouse hopping

There are 65 lighthouses along Maine’s coastline. Many of these historic and striking beacons are open for touring, or at least to stroll the grounds; some have overnight accommodations.

11 Paddle around in a kayak

With nearly 3,500 miles of coastline, renting a kayak or booking a guided paddle is one of the most memorable ways to explore Maine’s colorful harbors, rocky ledges, and dramatic headlands.

12 Enjoy a towering view

Rising 437 feet, the sleek Penobscot Narrows Bridge has the world’s tallest bridge observatory. You can also have fun next door at historic Fort Knox, the state’s largest garrison. (Ch. 6)

13 Stop and smell the roses

Set on 300 acres in Boothbay, the Maine Coast Botanical Garden is New England’s largest and a delightful place to admire spring blooms and fall foliage, and stroll among giant trolls. (Ch. 5)

14 Stroll along Marginal Way

The mile-long Marginal Way meanders atop a rocky promontory, connecting the dapper village of Ogunquit with the bustling lobster shacks and galleries of Perkins Cove. (Ch. 3)

15 Getting to know Andrew Wyeth’s and Winslow Homer’s Maine

In Prout’s Neck, you can book a tour of Homer’s studio through the Portland Museum of Art. In Rockland, don’t miss the Wyeth Center at the Farnworth Art Museum. (Ch. 3, 6)

WHAT’S WHERE

dingbat The Southern Coast. Stretching north from Kittery to just outside Portland, this is Maine’s most-visited region. Kittery, the Yorks, Ogunquit, and the Kennebunks abound with historic sites, sophisticated inns and restaurants, and miles of beaches.

dingbat Portland. Maine’s largest city deftly balances its historic role as a working harbor with its newer identity as a center of art, shopping, dining, and lodging.

dingbat The Mid-Coast Region. North of Portland, from Brunswick to Monhegan Island, the craggy coastline winds its way around pastoral peninsulas and dozens of lighthouses. Its villages boast maritime museums, antique shops, and beautiful architecture.

dingbat Penobscot Bay. This region combines lively coastal towns with dramatic natural scenery. Camden, one of Maine’s most picture-perfect towns, has antique homes and a historic windjammer fleet, and Rockland has a lively downtown and excellent museums.

dingbat Blue Hill Peninsula and Deer Isle. Art galleries are far more plentiful here in this less-developed swath of coastline than shops selling lobster T-shirts and lighthouse souvenirs. The entire region is ideal for biking, hiking, kayaking, and boating. For many, the Blue Hill Peninsula defines the silent beauty of the Maine Coast.

dingbat Acadia National Park. Travelers come by the millions to climb (mostly by car, but there’s fantastic hiking, too) the miles of 19th-century carriage roads and well-marked trails leading to Acadia National Park’s stunning peaks and vistas.

dingbat Acadia Region. Bar Harbor—where the wealthy built summer cottages in the 19th century—is now a visitor’s haven abundant with restaurants and hotels, while Southwest Harbor and Bass Harbor offer quieter pleasures.

dingbat Down East Coast. Some say this is the real Maine. Thousands of acres of wild blueberry barrens, congestion-free coastlines, the winds and the winters, and the immense tides make the area strikingly beautiful.

Maine Coast Today

In recent decades, Maine’s Congressional delegation has often been around 50–50—half Democrat and Republican, and half male and female, which somewhat resembles the makeup of the state. Voters legalized recreational marijuana in 2016, and retail pot shops began opening in 2020. Since 2000, Somali immigration has increased cultural diversity in Lewiston and Portland—in 2021, Deqa Dhalac was elected mayor of South Portland, making her the first Somali-American to become mayor of a U.S. city. As many paper mills have shuttered, farming is on the upswing, while the billion-dollar tourism industry struggles at times to find enough workers—especially following the pandemic. The state’s soaring popularity with vacationers also continues to fuel rising real estate prices and rents up and down the coast.

THE PEOPLE

The vast majority of Maine’s nearly 1.4 million residents live within 50 miles of the state’s long, jagged, and picturesque coastline—the stretch from Kittery, at the New Hampshire border, to Bangor is the most populous. Nevertheless, outside of a few cities and more densely settled towns, much of the coast retains a verdant, semi-rural look and feel, especially compared with southern New England’s generally more developed coast.

The idea of the self-reliant, thrifty, and often stoic New England Yankee has taken on almost mythic proportions in American folklore, but in parts of New England—especially in Maine—there still is some truth to this image. It makes sense—you need to be independent if you farm an isolated field, live in the middle of a remote forest, or work a fishing boat miles off the coast. As in any part of the country, there are stark differences between the city mice and the country mice of Maine. Both, however, are usually knowledgeable and fiercely proud of the region, its rugged beauty, and its contributions to the nation.

Though about 95% of the state’s present population identifies as white, Maine is becoming steadily if slowly more diverse. About 80,000 Mainers are of some other race, and roughly 8,000 are direct descendants of coastal Maine’s original inhabitants, the Wabanaki, who have foraged and hunted its fertile lands and fished its prolific waters. (navigating in sturdy canoes fashioned out of birchbark) for at least 12,000 years. This broader group historically comprises four specific tribes: the Penobscot, the Passamaquoddy, the Maliseet, and the Micmac.

THE LANGUAGE

True Mainers drop or soften their R’s—making their favorite dish lobstah; they also often accentuate the vowel, so a one-word syllable can be pronounced like two, meaning here may become hee-yuh.

A few words and phrases:

dingbat Chowdah—always New England–style, never Manhattan-style

dingbat Grindah—a submarine sandwich

dingbat Nor’eastah—strong winter storm

dingbat Jimmies—ice-cream sprinkles

dingbat Regulah coffee—coffee with cream and sugar, not black

dingbat Wicked—very, added as a modifier (e.g., wicked awesome, wicked good)

SPORTS

Maine sports fans typically follow Massachusetts teams as if they were their own—Red Sox baseball, Bruins hockey, Celtics basketball, and Patriots football. But locals also fervently support Portland’s professional minor league teams, such as baseball’s Sea Dogs, an affiliate of the Red Sox; hockey’s Mainers, an affiliate of the Bruins; and basketball’s Maine Celtics, an affiliate of Boston’s Celtics.

Coastal Mainers are generally drawn to the outdoors, too—hiking, sailing, kayaking, and bicycling are all favorite pastimes at or near the shore, and the region’s many diehard skiers and snowboarders eagerly drive inland to Sunday River, Sugarloaf, and Saddleback Mountain during the winter months. But if you’re seeking spectacular ocean views while enjoying a day on the slopes, look no further than Camden Snow Bowl, which overlooks West Penobscot Bay.

THE ECONOMY

Exports are a major part of the modern New England—and Maine—economy, consisting heavily of computers and other electronics, chemicals, and specialized machinery. Some towns are known for a particular export like L.L. Bean’s home base of Freeport, and Bath, whose naval shipyards supply the military with high-tech ships and submarines. Farther inland in the state’s densely wooded hills and mountains, a number of towns depend upon one of Maine’s most important industries, the harvesting and processing of timber (in the form of wood, wood pulp, and paper).

On the coast, however, both seafood and tourism—two industries that share a sometimes complicated yet symbiotic relationship—dominate the economy. There are about 50 commercial fishing ports along the coast, and collectively they employ 26,000 people and typically generate upward of $750 million annually, although in 2021 the state’s seafood industry netted (pardon the pun) nearly $900 million, a new record. You can probably guess most of the top revenue-producing products: about 80% of the yield is Maine’s famously delicious lobster, with soft-shell clam, oysters, and scallops prolific as well. Menhaden, an oily species of herring, is another top catch—it’s primarily used as lobster bait. Maine’s third most valuable catch are elvers, aka baby eels, which are fished from rivers and exported mostly to Japan as seed stock. Some of these find their way back to Maine and other U.S. states in the form of unagi rolls at sushi restaurants. Maine is also known for a number of other food products, including maple syrup, blueberries, and cranberries.

Although Maine’s ever-growing crop of tourists undoubtedly helps support the state’s seafood and agricultural industries, it also contributes to soaring real estate costs in many port communities, which in turn threatens the economic sustainability of seafood companies and their workers. This balance is especially tenuous, for example, in Portland’s Old Port maritime district, where the historic waterfront once dominated entirely by commercial wharves and dockyards is now a mix of industrial, residential, and leisure. Up and down the coast, as pleasure boats compete with fishing boats for valuable moorings and slips, and hotels, vacation condos, and upmarket restaurants and boutiques spring up alongside generations-old fishing commercial fishing operations, local officials continue to seek ways to strike a balance between development and preservation.

Maine’s Best Seafood Shacks

BITE INTO MAINE, CAPE ELIZABETH, ME

This spot serves high-quality lobster rolls from a cart near Portland Head Light and has additional locations in Portland and Scarborough. The contemporary twists make the trip worth it, and the LBT (Lobster, Bacon and Tomato) sandwich is sheer heaven. (Ch. 3)

MUSCONGUS BAY LOBSTER, MUSCONGUS, ME

Locals and summer folks chow down on delicious seafood straight from the sea; if you can, grab a table on the deck overlooking the expansive bay. It’s BYOB for now (a bar is planned for the future), so bring appropriate provisions. And, there’s a kids menu. (Ch. 5)

BOB’S CLAM HUT, KITTERY, ME

With fresh (never frozen) shellfish and a cheery, old-school vibe, Bob’s also serves up scrumptious, homemade sauces, including their tangy Moxie BBQ sauce, to smother over golden fried clams, alongside some of the creamiest New England clam chowder around. (Ch. 3)

SHANNON’S UNSHELLED, BOOTHBAY HARBOR, ME

The namesake of this shack first got the idea to set up shop when her father posed the simple question: Where can you buy a quick lobster roll in Boothbay Harbor? The shack is now beloved for its grilled and buttered buns stuffed with whole lobsters and served with a side of garlicky, sea-salted drawn butter. (Ch. 5)

THE LOBSTER SHACK, OGUNQUIT, ME

A fixture since 1947 in Ogunquit’s bustling Perkins Cove, this cozy weathered-shingle lobster pound is just across from the oft-photographed footbridge. Choose from a 1⁄4- to a whopping 1-pound lobster roll, or try the delicious roll with hand-picked Maine crab meat. (Ch. 3)

FIVE ISLANDS LOBSTER, GEORGETOWN, ME

Located on a lively working wharf overlooking Sheepscot Bay, this cheerful spot welcomes hungry folks with its delicious seafood and stunning views. The family-friendly atmosphere extends to the menu, which also has plenty of not from the sea options. (Ch. 5)

THE CLAM SHACK, KENNEBUNKPORT, ME

For more than a half century, this shack has been known for speedy service and great takeout fare, like its traditional boiled lobster dinners and lobster rolls on freshly baked buns. Eat at one of several wooden picnic tables that overlook the Kennebunk River. There’s even a lemonade stand to complete the experience. (Ch. 3)

THE HIGHROLLER LOBSTER CO., PORTLAND, ME

What many consider to be Portland’s top lobster shop has plenty going for it, from the friendly service to the creative (try the lime-jalapeño mayo) takes on traditional lobster rolls. Be sure to give the tantalizing lobby pop—lobster tail on a stick—a try. (Ch. 4)

RED’S EATS, WISCASSET, ME

It’s not uncommon to see hungry customers forming long lines outside this iconic red shack, which opened in 1938. The lobster roll (served with local butter) is a huge draw, but the menu features other staples like fried clams, shrimp, and scallops. Hot dogs, hamburgers, and grilled cheese round out the options. (Ch. 5)

THE SHUCK STATION, NEWCASTLE, ME

There’s a lobster roll on the menu, but here it’s all about oysters— fried oysters, fried oyster tacos, oysters Rockefeller, oyster po’boys, BBQ oysters, and of course, raw oysters. This laid-back and family-friendly joint has a kids’ menu and lots of local beers on tap. (Ch. 5)

Culinary Maine Musts

WHOOPIE PIES

Consisting of two soft moon-shape cakes and a creamy vanilla frosting, whoopie pies may have originated in a few possible northeastern locales. Maine leads the way in whoopie pie adoration, and gourmet shops offer up all kinds of fun flavors: think apple-spiced cakes with caramel cream, or chocolate cakes with peanut butter cream.

PANCAKES AND MAPLE SYRUP

Maybe the most beloved of New England breakfasts, fluffy pancakes with local maple syrup are a year-round delight. Sure, Vermont and New Hampshire may be more famous for maple syrup, but Maine produces nearly 20% of the country’s supply.

CRAFT BEER

New England has been a pioneer when it comes to innovative brewers, and in 2021, Maine overtook Vermont as having more craft producers per capita than any other state. From dry-hopped IPAs to tangy sours to barrel-aged saisons, the coast abounds with interesting ales and lagers.

COFFEE

Another pillar of the state’s craft beverage scene, artisan coffeehouses and roasters thrive here. Benbow’s Coffee in Bar Harbor helped put the state on the premium-coffee map in the mid-’80s and remains a favorite. Other stellar showcases of well-crafted, complex espresso drinks include Coffee by Design in Portland and 44 North Coffee on Deer Isle.

APPLES AND CIDERS

Crisp fall days see a bounty of apple production throughout the state, from ubiquitous galas and honeycrisps to unusual heirloom and wild varieties. Gather your own supply at U-pick operations or stock up on artisan hard ciders that feature local apples and other Maine fruits at one of the state’s two-dozen cideries.

BLUEBERRIES

From mid-July through mid-September, these berries proliferate throughout the region, at U-pick farms, of course, but also look for them in the wild when you’re out along woodland trails. You can bring home a number of locally made products, like blueberry syrups, jams, sauces, and baked goods.

SALTWATER TAFFY

Kid-approved since the 1880s, saltwater taffy stars among the many kinds of bulk candies you’ll find at sweets shops situated in nearly ever good-size coastal village in Maine. Boxes of these chewy taffies in assorted flavors—from banana to maple to watermelon—make great gifts. Perkins Cove Candies in Ogunquit is a longtime favorite, but the Goldenrod in York Beach and Old Port Candy Company in Portland also have loyal followings.

FISH-AND-CHIPS

Maine shellfish—not just lobster but also clams, oysters, crab, and scallops—is justly famous the world over, but don’t forget that the region’s cool waters also yield fresh and flavorful fin fish, much of which makes its way into hearty platters of beer-battered, lightly fried fish (usually haddock) and chips. Standouts for this simple, traditional dish popularized in northern England in the mid-19th century include Pier 77 in Kennebunkport, and Robert’s Maine Grill in Kittery.

ICE CREAM

Maine’s quintessential road-tripping dessert, ice cream in these parts often features local ingredients. Long-running stands like Beal’s Old Fashioned turn out classic flavors, from blueberry cobbler to Indian pudding. In more recent years, small-batch gourmet shops have made a splash with their inventive creations. Try matcha ginger–rhubarb jam at Rococo in Kennebunkport, or butterscotch-miso at Mount Desert Island Ice Cream in Bar Harbor and Portland.

For the Love of Lobster

There’s probably no more celebrated way to eat Maine’s most sought-after crustacean than in the form of a lobster roll, but what kind of roll, you ask? The lobster roll is said to have been first served in the late 1920s by Perry’s restaurant in Milford, Connecticut (which is far closer to New York City than to Boston, much less Maine). By the mid-20th century, the dish had become ubiquitous throughout coastal New England, and Maine (as well as Canada’s Maritimes) in particular. Traditionally, it’s consisted of lobster meat tossed lightly with mayonnaise and served cold in a hot dog (or similarly shaped) bun.

Red’s Eats in Wiscasset, Maine is generally credited with having turned the once humble sandwich into a genuine food craze in the 1970s. But it’s Connecticut, yet again, where a number of restaurants are believed to have popularized the beloved version of the roll that’s served hot, the lobster meat slathered in warm drawn butter and on a toasted roll—plenty of devotees consider this the only legit kind of lobster roll.

Easy portability is one of best attributes of a lobster roll, but throughout coastal Maine, at sit-down restaurants and even barebones shanties with weathered picnic tables, diners seeking a more leisurely, communal repast often prefer to order traditional lobster dinners. These full-scale feasts consist of fresh boiled lobster served still in the shell, and thus requiring that you invest a little sweat equity into your meal: you’ll be given sturdy leg-cracking utensils and tiny picking forks to surgically (or with reckless abandon, depending on your style) remove the tender bits from the knuckle, tail, big claw, and walking legs of your lobster. It can be a messy undertaking, hence the donning of lobster bibs.

Thankfully, many restaurants provide an alternate option to all this hard work: the so-called lazy lobster, consisting of all of that sweet claw and tail meat already picked from the shell and then sautéed in butter and served ready-to-devour. Either version comes with plenty of drawn butter, along with a rich assortment of sides—usually seafood chowder (or bisque), steamed clams, baked potato or fries, corn on the cob, and maybe coleslaw or potato salad.

In recent years lobster has begun appearing on menus in countless other formats: served atop or in salads, BLT sandwiches, pot pies, ravioli, mac and cheese, pizza, and various casseroles that you’ve probably already seen or maybe eaten yourself, even at restaurants well outside of New England. More unusual variations on the theme include lobster corn dogs, ramen, bao, banh mi, and—we’re truly not sure what to think about this one—ice cream.

When in Maine, and when staying in accommodations with kitchens (or even just outdoor grills), preparing lobster for yourself and ideally a group of family and friends presents the opportunity for a delicious culinary adventure. You can buy live lobster from countless seafood markets, and if you’re new at preparing this dish, staff at these places are usually happy to provide instructions or at least give you a few pointers.

The most popular preparations are steaming and boiling (for which you’ll need a pot of at least 3 quarts for every 2 pounds of lobster) and grilling. Boiling and steaming require a bit less work and take only about 12 to 15 minutes to produce a delicious pink crustacean ready to dig into. If you have access to fresh seawater, use that for boiling; otherwise, use very well-salted water to help preserve that fresh-from-the-sea flavor. Adherents of grilling prefer the slightly smoky, earthy flavor that the process imparts—but you’ll need to kill your lobster first, and overcooking it can lead to tough, chewy meat, so take care. Allow about 12 minutes to grill a 2-pound lobster on a typical grill.

Whether you’re just back from your trip and need to curb those seafood cravings or want to share your newfound love of lobster with someone back home, ordering fresh shellfish from Maine is easier than you might imagine. You can shop online from a number of reliable companies that will ship your delicious lobster—along with oysters, scallops, clams, crab, and cod—directly to your doorstep. Maine Seafood (wseafoodfrommaine.com) is your one-stop resource for finding a place to get the freshest Maine seafood to your table—they list nearly 40 online vendors. Get Maine Lobster (wgetmainelobster.com) and The Lobster Guy (wthelobsterguy.com) are also popular mail-order options. The cost varies considerably, with some companies charging more for shipping but less for the product (generally a better choice for larger orders) and others charging little or nothing to ship orders over a certain amount but higher prices for the product itself. In general, for four live lobsters shipped overnight across the country, expect to pay around $150 to $200.

Maine’s Best Beaches

FOOTBRIDGE BEACH, OGUNQUIT

This spot offers excellent swimming, beach combing, and bodysurfing opportunities, as well as a boat launch for kayaks, small boats, and standup paddleboards. Typically less crowded than Ogunquit Beach, it’s reached by crossing a footbridge that runs over the Ogunquit River. (Ch. 3)

ROQUE BLUFFS STATE PARK, ROQUE BLUFFS

Largely sandy, with some pebbly spots thrown in for good measure, this ½-mile crescent beach offers bracing Atlantic Ocean swims as well as temperate dips in a 60-acre pond that backs up to the beach. (Ch. 10)

GOOSE ROCKS BEACH, KENNEBUNKPORT

A wildly popular beach in warmer months, Goose Rocks Beach is treasured for its long stretch of clean sand and close proximity to town. Parking can be tough and permits are required, but it’s well worth the headache to get up early and snatch a spot. (Ch. 3)

JASPER BEACH, MACHIASPORT

Named after the many deep red pebbles scattered across its shore, this pocket beach tucked away in Howard Cove is definitely off the beaten path. Beach combers come to seek out the rare jasper stones among the equally red, volcanic rhyolite pebbles, while those seeking solitude find it in the salt marsh and fresh and saltwater lagoons. (Ch. 10)

SAND BEACH, ACADIA NATIONAL PARK

What this sandy beach lacks in size it’s well compensated for by its commanding view of the mountains and craggy shores that draw millions of people to Mount Desert Island each year. Several trailheads dot the beach and lead up the surrounding cliffs, where you’ll be rewarded with spectacular panoramas of the shore and beach below. (Ch. 8)

MOWRY BEACH, LUBEC

On the U.S.-Canadian border, this majestic beach has dramatic tides that produce excellent clamming conditions and superb beach runs at low tide. A small boardwalk leads out to the shore from where you can spy Lubec’s famous lighthouse, as well as its Canadian neighbors. (Ch. 10)

REID STATE PARK, GEORGETOWN

One of the Pine Tree State’s rare sandy beaches, Reid State Park is a surfer’s and sunbather’s paradise. Rarely crowded, even in summer, the beach stretches 1½ miles along the Atlantic, with large sand dunes and essential nesting areas for some of the state’s endangered birds. (Ch. 5)

CRESCENT BEACH, CAPE ELIZABETH

This mile-long half-moon-shape swatch of sand has some of the state’s warmest ocean currents, making it a favorite for swimming. (Ch. 3)

POPHAM BEACH, PHIPPSBURG

On a rugged peninsula just south of Bath, this hugely popular beach park is a great option for just about every shore activity: beachcombing, sunbathing, swimming, surf-casting, picnicking, kayaking, and even surfing. (Ch. 5)

OLD ORCHARD BEACH, OLD ORCHARD

Founded in the 1880s, Old Orchard Beach has been the state’s premier family-resort destination for generations. Amusement parks, minigolf, midway games, and souvenir stands line the boardwalk and pier, and 7 miles of sandy oceanfront area popular for swimming and socializing. (Ch. 3)

BIRCH POINT STATE PARK, OWLS HEAD

Located near the mouth of West Penobscot Bay, this crescent-shaped beach is well-sheltered from the wind and tends to have a mild surf well-suited to swimming and tidepooling. (Ch. 6)

PEMAQUID BEACH, NEW HARBOR

Pemaquid Beach is a draw for families and couples looking for a quintessential beach day complete with an umbrella, sand bucket, and ice cream, all of which can be rented or purchased from the kiosk near the changing facilities and community center. (Ch. 5)

Stay in a Maine Lighthouse

Ever wondered what it would be like to stay at one of Maine’s 65 lighthouses? Well, you’re in luck because the following seven Maine lighthouses offer guests the unique opportunity to spend the night. See the feature on Maine’s Lighthouses at the end of this chapter for more lighthouse information.

BURNT COAT HARBOR LIGHT STATION

Situated on the south shore of Swan’s Island—a 6-mile ferry ride from Mount Desert Island—this 35-foot-tall white tower features a fairly spacious apartment in its red-roofed 1872 keeper’s house, which is available on a weekly basis from June through October. wburntcoatharborlight.com.

GOOSE ROCKS LIGHTHOUSE

Make a minimum $600 donation to the nonprofit Beacon Preservation organization and you can spend the night at this 1890 sparkplug lighthouse with a dramatic offshore setting at the eastern entrance to the Fox Islands in Penobscot Bay. You enter this cast-iron structure’s elegantly appointed accommodations (sleeps six) via a ladder. wbeaconpreservation.org.

LITTLE RIVER LIGHTHOUSE

Located on an otherwise uninhabited 15-acre island at the mouth of a river in Coulter, less than 20 miles from the Canadian border, this iron tower affords sweeping sea vistas. Accommodations are in a cheerfully restored 1888 keeper’s house with three guest rooms and a fully equipped kitchen. wlittleriverlight.org.

PEMAQUID POINT LIGHTHOUSE

This nearly 200-year-old 80-foot brick cylinder lies at the tip of Pemaquid Neck. A popular attraction for day visitors, it’s a great choice if you want relatively easy access to a quaint maritime village with restaurants and galleries. Overnight stays are by the week in a one-bedroom suite on the second floor of the adjacent keeper’s house. wbristolmaine.org.

SEGUIN ISLAND LIGHTHOUSE

Perched at the tip of a small island at the mouth of the Kennebec River, this cylindrical stone tower rises 52 feet above an already high headland. It’s a short ferry ride from Phippsburg, and guest quarters in the keeper’s house have two bedrooms and basic kitchen facilities. Camping is also permitted at the base of the lighthouse. wseguinisland.org.

WEST QUODDY STATION

Within walking distance of West Quoddy Lighthouse and Quoddy State Park, this complex of historic buildings—the original Station House, the Crews Quarters, the Keepers Cottage, and the Meeting House—has been adapted into attractively furnished vacation homes that sleep four to nine guests. wquoddyvacation.com.

WHITEHEAD LIGHT STATION

This seven-bedroom keeper’s house on 11 tranquil, wooded acres sits on secluded Whitehead Island, at the western mouth of West Penobscot Bay. It’s an ideal haven for large groups and families, available by the week from June through October, and the house has a kitchen and extensive common spaces. Rates include transportation to the island in one of the station’s boats. wwww.whiteheadlightstation.org.

Maine with Kids

Coastal Maine—from small waterfront villages to bustling larger towns and even Portland—are hugely popular, especially in summer, with families. You’ll have no problem finding reasonably priced, kid-friendly hotels and family-style restaurants, as well as museums, beaches, parks, and lighthouses. Many resorts offer lively children’s programs, and farms that welcome overnight guests can also be great fun for children. Beach cottages, apartments, and family suites also abound. These can be especially economical, because most have kitchens—saving you the expense of restaurant dining for some or all meals.

ACADIA NATIONAL PARK, MOUNT DESERT ISLAND

Head out on a whale- and puffin-watching trip from Bar Harbor, drive up scenic Cadillac Mountain, swim at Echo Lake Beach, hike one of the many easy, novice-friendly trails. However you and your kids work up an appetite, don’t forget to sample some wild blueberry pie.

MAINE NARROW GAUGE RAILROAD MUSEUM, PORTLAND

Fans of vintage trains embark on one of the scenic rides offered on these narrow-gauge trains. Ice Cream Trains offer a sweet adventure on certain Friday nights during the warmer months, and in the winter, kids can ride the Polar Express.

COASTAL MAINE BOTANICAL GARDENS, BOOTHBAY

This entire 295-acre wonderland of flora and fragrant flowers offers plenty to see and do for all ages, but the beautifully designed Children’s Garden is an absolute must, with a treehouse, play cottage, story barn, and more. In the area, families also enjoy the Boothbay Railway Village and Maine State Aquarium.

SEA DOGS BASEBALL GAMES, PORTLAND

See the next David Ortiz or Dustin Pedroia while attending a minor league baseball game at Hadlock Field. The AA affiliate of the Boston Red Sox plays at this festive, kid-friendly ball field that even features a 37-foot-tall replica of Fenway Park’s Green Monster.

OWLS HEAD TRANSPORTATION MUSEUM, OWLS HEAD

In the rural coastal community of Owls Head, just south of bustling Rockland, kids love checking out the colorful collection of carefully restored antique planes, cars, and even bicycles—the 1926 Ford Model T Snowmobile is a favorite.

FUNTOWN SPLASHTOWN USA, SACO

On warm summer days, kids of all ages can cool off and play for hours amid the thrill adventures, kiddie rides, waterslides, and play pools at this legendary amusement park on U.S. 1 in Saco.

PORTLAND FIRE ENGINE CO. TOURS, PORTLAND

These 50-minute narrated tours of Maine’s largest city take place in a bright-red antique fire engine. Knowledgeable guides describe the local sights, and a large-screen TV on board shows photos of what Portland looked like generations ago.

MAINE MARITIME MUSEUM, BATH

At this historic 20-acre campus that preserves one of the East Coast’s most important and historic shipyards, you can tour and even sail on a 1906 schooner, watch boatbuilders constructing vessels, view meticulously crafted ships’ models, and take a nature or lighthouse cruise on the Kennebec River.

THE MAILBOAT RUN, CASCO BAY

Hop aboard this laid-back and scenic 2½- to 3½-hour cruise around Casco Bay. The world’s long-running daily maritime mail service offers a unique perspective on Portland’s working harbor and the bay’s largest islands.

LIGHTHOUSE TOURS

Dozens of the state’s iconic lighthouses dot the coast, and many of these are open for tours, typically in summer. Favorites in which you can climb to the top for sweeping water views include Wood Island Lighthouse in Saco Bay, Bug Light in South Portland, and Goat Island Lighthouse off the coast of Kennebunkport.

CHILDREN’S MUSEUM & THEATRE OF MAINE, PORTLAND

Attend a play at the nation’s oldest continuously operating children’s theater, or explore the imaginative exhibits at this state-of-the-art museum in Portland’s West End. In winter, combine your visit with skating at the Rink at Thompson’s Point, across the street.

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY LODGING OPTIONS

Cliff House, Cape Neddick (Ch. 3)

Stage Neck Inn, York Harbor (Ch. 3)

The Nonantum Resort, Kennebunkport (Ch. 3)

Black Point Inn, Scarborough (Ch. 3)

Higgins Beach Inn, Scarborough (Ch. 3)

The Press Hotel, Portland (Ch. 4)

The Inn on Carleton, Portland (Ch. 4)

Canopy by Hilton Portland Waterfront, Portland (Ch. 4)

Harraseeket Inn, Freeport (Ch. 5)

Sebasco Harbor Resort, Phippsburg (Ch. 5)

Cod Cove Inn, Edgecomb (Ch. 5)

Linekin Bay Resort, Boothbay Harbor (Ch. 5)

Spruce Point Inn, Boothbay Harbor (Ch. 5)

Newcastle Inn, Newcastle (Ch. 5)

The Tipsy Butler Bed and Breakfast, Newcastle (Ch. 5)

The Country Inn at Camden Rockport (Ch. 6)

Samoset Resort, Rockport (Ch. 6)

Lord Camden Inn, Camden (Ch. 6)

Whitehall, Camden (Ch. 6)

Lincolnville Motel, Lincolnville (Ch. 6)

Belfast Harbor Inn, Belfast (Ch. 6)

Fireside Inn & Suites, Belfast (Ch. 6)

The Castine Cottages, Castine (Ch. 7)

The Castine Inn, Castine (Ch. 7)

Under Canvas, Surry (Ch. 7)

The Oakland House Seaside Resort, Brooksville (Ch. 7)

Bar Harbor Grand Hotel, Bar Harbor (Ch. 9)

Harborside Hotel, Spa & Marina, Bar Harbor (Ch. 9)

Inn on Mount Desert, Bar Harbor (Ch. 9)

Salt Cottages, Hulls Cove (Ch. 9)

Terramor Outdoor Resort, Bar Harbor (Ch. 9)

Acadia Oceanside, Prospect Harbor (Ch. 9)

Pleasant Bay Bed & Breakfast, Addison (Ch. 10)

West Quoddy Station, Lubec (Ch. 10)

What to Read and Watch

IT BY STEPHEN KING

You won’t find Derry, Maine on any map, but you can visit it via a number of chilling tales courtesy of horror writer Stephen King, including his 1986 novel It, which follows a group of friends who try to kill a monster that terrorizes their town. Note that the popular ‘90s TV miniseries and 2017 film were filmed outside of Maine, as have been most of film and TV adaptations of King’s books, but the original (1989) Pet Sematary is the rare exception—it was shot in Ellsworth, Bangor, and Mount Desert Island.

CAROUSEL

One of the earliest major movies shot on location in Maine (in this case mostly in Boothbay Harbor), this lauded Rodgers and Hammerstein musical centers on the budding romance between a carousel barker (Gordan MacRae) and a mill worker (Shirley Jones). Filmed in 1956 in brilliant CinemaScope and featuring a haunting, memorable score, Carousel is often named among the greatest classic musicals.

LOBSTERMAN BY DAHLOV IPCAR

Dahlov Ipcar, who died at the age of 99 in 2017, is best remembered as a writer and illustrator of children’s books, many of which took place in her home state of Maine. One such classic is Lobsterman, which portrays the day in the life of a lobsterman and his son as they work along the coast of Maine.

THE CIDER HOUSE RULES BY JOHN IRVING

This 1985 novel by John Irving was set in 1940s Maine, and the 1999 adaptation was filmed partly in Maine (along with New Hampshire, Vermont, and Massachusetts) and stars Kathy Baker, Michael Caine, and Tobey Maguire. The poignant and often funny saga depicts the father-son-like relationship that emerges between an orphan (Maguire), and the orphanage’s doctor (Caine), who takes him under his wing.

EMPIRE FALLS BY RICHARD RUSSO

This Pulitzer Prize–winning 2001 novel is set in the fictional town for which it’s named and likely modeled after some of interior Maine’s hardscrabble mill communities. Russo’s knack for handling both romance and tragedy with both empathy and comic wit shines through. The well-received 2005 TV miniseries—starring Ed Harris, Philip Seymour Hoffman, Helen Hunt, and Paul Newman—was shot in both on the coast (Ogunquit, Kennebunkport, Lincolnville) and a bit inland in Skowhegan, Waterville, Augusta, and elsewhere.

MISS RUMPHIUS BY BARBARA COONEY

The winner of two Caldecott Medals, Barbara Cooney authored and illustrated more than 100 children’s books during her prolific career. She died in Damariscotta in 2000, where she had lived most of her adult life and set many of her tales, including Miss Rumphius, which earned her a National Book Award in 1983. Cooney based the book on a real-life figure, Hilda Hamlin, who planted colorful blue and purple lupines up and down the Maine coast.

IN THE BEDROOM

Adapted in 2001 into a critically acclaimed independent film from a short story called Killings, this emotionally taut and wrenching drama centers on a family tragedy set and filmed in and around Camden. It was nominated for five Oscars, including Best Picture, Best Actor (Tom Wilkinson), Best Actress (Sissy Spacek), and Best Supporting Actress (Marisa Tomei).

OLIVE KITTERIDGE BY ELIZABETH STROUT

Perhaps the most lauded of several contemporary novels by Portland-based novelist and short-story writer Elizabeth Strout, this Pulitzer Prize winner from 2008 is told through 13 short stories set in the fictional Maine college town of Crosby (which is said to be based on Brunswick), and the narrative is focused heavily on the eponymous lead character as well as her family and others in this small community. The HBO miniseries, starring Frances McDormand and Richard Jenkins, was filmed in 2014 in Massachusetts.

SALT & WATER

There are a number of podcasts recorded in Maine and touching on different aspects of the state, from the University of Maine’s Greater Good to From the Woodshed, which is based on the interior Maine reality TV stars of Maine Cabin Masters. Produced by the local cultural and heritage organization Experience Maritime Maine, Salt & Water is a six-part series of audio stories that shine a light on the people and places of Coastal Maine, from the female lobster fishers of Stonington to boatbuilders of Bath.

JUMANJI

This crowd-pleasing 1996 family adventure film starring Robin Williams, Bonnie Hunt, and a 12-year-old Kirsten Dunst was shot primarily in New Hampshire and Maine. Filming locations in the latter include Kennebunk and the Olde Woolen Mill in North Berwick.

Chapter 2: TRAVEL SMART

Know Before You Go

Maine has its fair share of regional character, color, and flavor—not to mention a few geographical and seasonal challenges. Here are some tips that will enrich your trip and ease your travels.

IT’S WICKED GOOD TO LEARN SOME LINGO

To avoid seeming like a chowdah-head (aka chowder head, aka idiot), brush up on some basic dialect. Want a big, long sandwich? Order a grinder, not a sub or a hero, and wash it down with a frappe or a tonic, not a milk shake or soda. At the hotel, grab the clickah (clicker) to change the TV station. At the supermarket, grab a carriage to shop for picnic sundries. If people direct you to a rotary, they mean traffic circle. And, even if you’re traveling north toward, say, Bar Harbor, you’re headed Down East.

EVEN THE BIG CITY IS RELATIVELY SMALL

Portland, Maine’s biggest city, has 66,218 people. Despite its small size, it has a thriving cultural scene; amazing restaurants and bars; a few colleges; and it’s steeped in history. Even if you’re less inclined toward urban exploring, Portland is well worth spending at least a day, and there’s enough to keep you busy here for several.

SMALL TOWNS RULE

You might have to dig a little deeper to