Fodor's The Carolinas & Georgia

By Fodor's Travel Guide

COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGE:

• One of the most current books on the Carolinas and Georgia from any major guidebook company
• The most comprehensive selection of hotel and restaurant reviews
• In-depth information on the important nuts and bolts about traveling in and around the Carolinas and Georgia (which includes Charleston, Savannah, and Asheville)
Expertly researched features on must-visit attractions, as well as fun, color-photo features such as 25
• Ultimate Experiences

TOURISM TRENDS:

• The COVID-19 pandemic in 2020 caused a steep drop-off in tourism to many destinations, but interest in domestic U.S. travel (especially to destinations that can be reached by car) increased in mid-2020 and surveys have shown that this likely to increase further in 2021 once a wider group of Americans is vaccinated.
• The Carolinas and Georgia look forward to big 2021 events including South Carolina’s Spoleto music festival in Charleston and the Hilton Head Island Concours d’Elegance & Motoring Festival, North Carolina’s Cape Fear Blues Festival and the Outer Banks’ Seafood Festival, and Georgia’s Imagine Music Festival and Jekyll Island Shrimp and Grits Festival.
• The hotel sector has seen substantial growth with the recently opened Emeline boutique hotel in Charleston and the new Cooper waterfront hotel expected in 2021. In Atlanta the Dream Atlanta Hotel and the Kimpton Buckhead Hotel are also expected in 2021. In North Carolina, the JW Marriott Charlotte will open (2021) and a Westin near the International Civil Rights Center and Museum in downtown Greensboro is scheduled to open in 2022.
• Other developments for 2021 and 2022 include a new cultural arts center with a 300-seat theater in downtown Myrtle Beach and the construction of the seven-acre Downtown Cary Park in Raleigh, with a great lawn, an entertainment pavilion, and interactive water features.

FULLY REDESIGNED!

• New front cover has eye-catching full-bleed images with key selling points on the front
• New back cover is fully-redesigned
• “Best of” Lists will visually engage the reader and provide an overview of the entire destination (best things to eat, see, do, and drink)
• Visually focused with more color and images including more full and half-page images throughout and color-coded category icons
• Other useful features including What to Watch and Read and On the Calendar
• “Travel Smart” (logistical planning tips section) now at the front of the book and redesigned to be more infographic in feel
• Stronger Voice and Opinions give all Fodor's guides more personality. Books are more friendly and conversational in tone, going beyond informational to being inspirational

CURATED AND RELEVANT:

• Focused coverage on only the best places so travelers can make the most out of their limited time.
• Carefully vetted recommendations for all types of establishments and price points.

CONCISE:

• Shortened reviews presented with brevity and focus.

Please see additional key selling points in the book main description

• Language: English
• Publisher: Fodor's Travel
• Release date: Nov 9, 2021
• ISBN: 9781640974456

Fodor's Travel Guide

For over 80 years, Fodor's Travel has been a trusted resource offering expert travel advice for every stage of a traveler's trip. We hire local writers who know their destinations better than anyone else, allowing us to provide the best travel recommendations for all tastes and budget in over 7,500 worldwide destinations. Our books make it possible for every trip to be a trip of a lifetime.

Book preview

Chapter 1: Experience the Carolinas and Georgia

25 ULTIMATE EXPERIENCES

The Carolinas & Georgia offer terrific experiences that should be on every traveler’s list. Here are Fodor’s top picks for a memorable trip.

1 Hit the Trails of North Carolina

Roughly 100 miles of the nation’s famous Appalachian Trail run through the western section of North Carolina, with another 200 or so following along the Tennessee border. (Ch. 6)

2 Get Hip in the Triangle

Chapel Hill, Raleigh, and Durham draw tourists to nationally renowned museums and some of the hottest restaurants and chefs in the American South. (Ch. 4)

3 Shop in Little Five Points

From vintage gear to crystals and sage, Atlanta’s Little Five Points is home to a variety of stores perfect for the eclectic shopper. (Ch. 14)

4 Explore Natural Wonders

The Nantahala and Pisgah National Forests, Great Smoky and Blue Ridge Mountain ranges, and rivers and lakes fill North Carolina with gorgeous vistas. (Ch. 5, 6)

5 Embrace the History of the Outer Banks

See the feral horses that have roamed Ocracoke for over 500 years, or learn about the Lost Colony, an entire British settlement that disappeared from the area in the 1500s. (Ch. 3)

6 Visit the Home of Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.

Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. grew up in a home off of Auburn Avenue, which is now a National Historic Site. (Ch. 14)

7 Walk or Bike the Atlanta BeltLine

The Atlanta BeltLine connects numerous neighborhoods. On any given day, catch a yoga class or a festival in one of the green spaces that run alongside. (Ch. 14)

8 Make a Splash at the Georgia Aquarium

Be prepared to stay awhile at the Georgia Aquarium, home to more than 100,000 animals, including whale sharks, beluga whales, and colorful angelfish. (Ch. 14)

9 Walk Savannah’s Squares

There are 22 squares—small parks designed by Savannah founder General James Oglethorpe—in Savannah’s Historic District. (Ch. 11)

10 Smell the Flowers

The State Botanical Garden of Georgia in Athens covers more than 300 acres with 5 miles of nature trails. (Ch. 15)

11 Visit the Biltmore Estate

In 1889, George Washington Vanderbilt began construction on a 250-room mansion on a vast estate that would become the largest private residence in the country. (Ch. 5)

12 Revisit the Civil Rights Movement

Visit the former Woolworth’s in Greensboro, where in 1960 four African Americans sat down at a whites-only counter and sparked sit-ins and nonviolent protests. (Ch. 4)

13 Explore Civil War History

Between 1861 and 1865, 20 American Civil War battles were fought along the North Carolina coast and at Fort Sumter in Charleston. (Ch. 3, 8)

14 Climb Aboard the Historic Ships of Coastal Carolina

The USS North Carolina starred in the Pacific theater naval battles and was the most decorated U.S. battleship in World War II. Today it’s a museum in Wilmington. (Ch. 3)

15 Nosh On Southern Cuisine

You can’t visit the city of Atlanta without treating your taste buds. From Mary Mac’s Tea Room to Old Lady Gang, there are plenty of options for classic Southern fare. (Ch. 14)

16 Visit a Brewery or Two (or Twenty)

Micro- and craft breweries have taken over North Carolina: there are more than 300 breweries and brewpubs, the most of any state in the South. (Ch. 4, 5)

17 Paddle to the Cockspur Lighthouse

See dolphins while kayaking to the Cockspur Island Lighthouse, then walk along North Beach to catch a glimpse of the Tybee Island Lighthouse. (Ch. 11)

18 Ride Horses on the Beach

On Seabrook Island, near Charleston, an equestrian center offers a unique experience—horseback riding on a pristine, sparsely populated stretch of Atlantic sand. (Ch. 8)

19 See the Boneyard Beach at Botany Bay Plantation

Spanish moss drapes from live oak limbs over the road as you pass centuries-old plantations on your way to sleepy Edisto Beach, South Carolina. (Ch. 8)

20 Stroll Through a Swamp at Congaree National Park

South Carolina’s Congaree is the largest hardwood bottomland forest in the southeast; explore it via a trail network that allows for 10-plus-mile hikes. (Ch. 10)

21 Camp on Cumberland Island

On Georgia’s Cumberland Island, you can either camp or stay at the famed Greyfield Inn. (Ch. 12)

22 Check Out a Live Show in Athens

From the Foundry to the 40 Watt Club, Athens venues are part of music history. Seminal bands that got their start here include R.E.M. and the B-52s. (Ch. 15)

23 Eat Until You Pop in Charleston

The jewel in South Carolina’s crown, you’ll never have a bad meal in Charleston. Upper King is a hot spot for new restaurant openings. (Ch. 8)

24 Visit the Telfair Family of Museums

With a Telfair Museums ticket, you’ll have access to modern art, beautiful antiquities, and a traditional 19th-century Savannah mansion for a full week. (Ch. 11)

25 Ride the SkyWheel at the Myrtle Beach Boardwalk

The massive SkyWheel along Myrtle Beach’s main strip forms a landmark you can see from a mile away—but the view is even better from 200 feet up. (Ch. 7)

WHAT’S WHERE

dingbat The North Carolina Coast. Nothing in the region compares with the Outer Banks. This band of barrier islands with wind-twisted oaks and pines has some of the East Coast’s best beaches.

dingbat Central North Carolina. The New South comes alive in three major metropolitan centers: Charlotte; the Triangle, which consists of Raleigh, Durham, and Chapel Hill; and the Triad, which consists of Greensboro, Winston-Salem, and High Point. Shopping, dining, and nightlife abound.

dingbat Asheville and the North Carolina Mountains. Western North Carolina is home to more than 1 million acres of stupendous vertical scenery. In addition to opportunities for outdoor adventures, visitors find edgy art galleries and sophisticated eateries in Asheville.

dingbat Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Eleven million annual visitors can’t be wrong; while the most visited of the national parks, there is more than enough beauty and deserted woodland in the Smokies for peaceful communion with nature.

dingbat Myrtle Beach, SC, and the Grand Strand. South Carolina’s Grand Strand, a 60-mile expanse of beaches, offers varied pleasures: the quiet refuge of Pawleys Island; Brookgreen Gardens, with its magnificent sculptures and landscaped grounds; dozens of golf courses; and the bustle of Myrtle Beach.

dingbat Charleston, SC. Charleston anchors the Lowcountry in high style. The city’s past, dating to 1670, is evident in cobblestone streets, antebellum mansions and plantations, and Gullah accents. Today, it hosts the renowned Spoleto performing arts festival and a celebrated food and wine festival. The city is home to numerous award-winning chefs and top-rated restaurants.

dingbat Hilton Head, SC, and the Lowcountry. The coastal lowlands feature picturesque landscapes of coastal forests and open marshes, undisturbed beaches, and quaint fishing villages. Hilton Head Island is home to more than 24 world-class golf courses and even more resorts, hotels, and top restaurants.

dingbat The Midlands and the Upstate, SC. Radiating out from Columbia, South Carolina’s engaging capital, the area’s small towns have their claims to fame: Aiken is a national equestrian center; Camden is the place to go for well-priced antiques; Abbeville is steeped in Civil War history.

dingbat Savannah, GA. Georgia’s oldest and grandest city is known for its elegant mansions, Spanish moss, and summer heat. It has more than 1,200 restored or reconstructed buildings dating from 1733 on.

dingbat Georgia’s Coastal Isles and the Okefenokee. Stretching south from Savannah, Georgia’s coastal isles are almost Florida, but more appealing. Cumberland Island National Seashore—with more than 120 wild horses—and the wild and mysterious Okefenokee Swamp are must-sees. Upscale visitors favor Sea Island, while St. Simons Island and Jekyll Island have something for everyone.

dingbat Southwest Georgia. The serenity of this quiet corner of Georgia has been a refuge for two former U.S. presidents. Franklin Delano Roosevelt had a summer home, the Little White House, in Warm Springs. Jimmy Carter, a Plains native, returned there to begin work as one of America’s most active former presidents.

dingbat Atlanta, GA. The Georgia Aquarium, World of Coca-Cola, the High Museum and great shopping and restaurants keep visitors busy in the capital of the New South. The Martin Luther King Jr. National Historic Park and the National Center for Civil and Human Rights bring to life Atlanta’s racially divided past and its ties to the civil rights movement, as well as human rights efforts worldwide.

dingbat Central and North Georgia. Stretching from Augusta to Macon, Central Georgia was the heart of the Old South. Azalea and cherry blossoms bloom along the Ocmulgee and Savannah Rivers. The pace picks up in Athens, home to the University of Georgia. Near Dahlonega, site of America’s first gold rush, vineyards now produce new gold for the region. In the northwest, visit Chickamauga, the site of one of the Civil War’s bloodiest battles.

The Carolinas and Georgia Today

THE PEOPLE

The Carolinas and Georgia are known for their friendliness. Folks in this part of the Southeast like to say hello—or rather hey and how y’all doin’. Such openness dates back to 18th- and 19th-century plantation days when scattered neighbors in remote, rural areas had only each other to depend on.

Among many factors, migrations from the Northeast and Midwest in the late 20th century dramatically changed the region’s agrarian lifestyle. Coastal and metropolitan areas boomed. New job opportunities brought people from all over the country and world, allowing diversity to flourish. The region’s cities host some of America’s best-known colleges, including Duke University in Durham; Emory University in Atlanta; and Clemson University in Clemson.

But as much as things have changed since the region’s plantation days, reckoning with the past, and the legacy of slavery, is a difficult reality in the Carolinas and Georgia. In the summer of 2020, the killing of George Floyd, the Black Lives Matter movement, and protests against police brutality (during a pandemic that disproportionately affected BIPOC communities) shed light on enduring remainders of white supremacy. All over the region, the work of black activists and organizers led to government removal of Confederate statues—what many considered to be long overdue, symbolic gestures. Atlanta, home of historic civil rights activists like Martin Luther King Jr. and John Lewis, held some of the largest and longest protests in the country. In North Carolina, three Confederate statues were toppled at the capitol in Raleigh, and around two dozen have been removed around the state since then.

Charleston, South Carolina, once the nation’s biggest slave port, is perhaps a good example of the Southeast’s complicated relationship with its past, where a city of beautifully preserved history can’t deny the large role slavery played in forming its picture-perfect landscape. Today, efforts are made to tell the other side of the story, with Charleston and the Lowcountry’s black history tours, museums, and monuments, and the forming of the Gullah Geechee Cultural Heritage Corridor. Still, in the Carolinas, Georgia, and elsewhere, there is much work to be done toward a more equitable and just America that learns from, rather than ignores or repeats, its past.

ECONOMY

It used to be that nearly everyone in the Carolinas and Georgia had agricultural ties. Colonists planted the first crops for sustenance, but by the mid-1800s the region’s economy depended on cotton and tobacco and slave labor worked large plantations. The Civil War and Reconstruction forced economic diversity.

Agriculture still characterizes the region—Georgia produces nearly half of America’s peanuts and is the nation’s leading poultry-producing state—but much larger employers now are government, technology, transportation, retail, manufacturing, education, health care, and tourism.

The region also has a number of U.S. military bases. Among them is the country’s largest: Fort Bragg in North Carolina, with nearly 54,000 troops. Camp Lejeune, in North Carolina’s coastal plain, is the nation’s largest amphibious training base. Georgia hosts Fort Benning army base, with more than 27,000 troops. South Carolina’s famous military complex is the Marine recruit base Parris Island.

Other government employers, like the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, are based in Atlanta. Georgia also ranks high in aerospace exports and is home to 15 Fortune 500 companies. Corporate headquarters include Coca-Cola, UPS, and Delta Airlines. North Carolina’s Piedmont is a research and science hub, and Charlotte is a major U.S. banking center. South Carolina claims BMW’s only American assembly plant; Michelin’s American headquarters; and Boeing South Carolina’s assembly plants, as well as research, design, and engineering facilities.

SPORTS

During one week each spring everyone is drawn to the college basketball craze. Schools in these three states make up nearly half of the 15-member Atlantic Coast Conference (ACC), and when the mighty league hosts its March college basketball tournament, fans here have much to cheer about. Top teams include the UNC Tar Heels, Duke Blue Devils, Clemson Tigers, and Georgia Tech Yellow Jackets.

On the pro side, tailgaters root for the NFL’s Atlanta Falcons and Carolina Panthers. Mild winters don’t deter hockey madness in Raleigh, home to the Carolina Hurricanes, while baseball fans have the Atlanta Braves and hoops lovers cheer for the Atlanta Hawks and the Charlotte Hornets.

NASCAR races were born on North Carolina’s mountain roads, where drivers ran bootleg whiskey during Prohibition. The first NASCAR strictly stock car race took place in 1949 in Charlotte. Today, the region boasts major NASCAR tracks Charlotte Motor Speedway in Concord, North Carolina; Atlanta Motor Speedway in Atlanta, Georgia; and Darlington Raceway in Darlington, South Carolina.

Golf lovers relish the region’s hundreds of courses, some of the world’s most challenging. Pinehurst in North Carolina has staged more golf championships than any other American golf resort, and the Masters Golf Tournament is played annually in Augusta, Georgia.

CUISINE

Early explorers arriving in what would become the Carolinas and Georgia found Native Americans eating corn, beans, pecans, and seafood. These foods, combined with imported ingredients, shaped the region’s cuisine and inspired cooks to create distinctive local fare.

Soul food and Southern cooking can be found throughout the area, but Georgia’s rich African American culture may lay claim to fried chicken. Enslaved Africans brought deep-fat frying to the area, along with many favorites like candied yams and stewed collards with cornbread. African and Caribbean influences also season Lowcountry cuisine, associated mainly with South Carolina’s shore, but stretching south to Savannah and north to Wilmington. Bountiful seafood and coastal rice plantations provided ingredients for famous dishes like shrimp and grits, she-crab soup, and the rice-and-black-eyed-pea dish named hoppin’ John.

Barbecue debates rage in North Carolina. Westerners prefer tomato-based sauce, while easterners want vinegar-based. Everyone agrees on one thing: barbecue means pork butts, pork shoulders, or whole hogs roasted slowly over a wood or charcoal fire and then shredded or pulled after cooking.

Each state also claims popular foodstuffs. Coca-Cola was invented in Georgia, Pepsi in North Carolina, and Firefly Iced Tea Vodka in South Carolina.

What to Eat and Drink in Georgia

MEXICAN TORTAS

This mouthwatering sandwich with Mexican origins can be stuffed with just about any meat imaginable but always inside a crusty, chewy sandwich roll complete with sliced avocado. Thanks to its hearty offering of international options, the strip of road known as Buford Highway is home to several Atlanta restaurants serving delicious tortas.

FRIED CHICKEN

Crispy, crunchy, and with just the right amount of savory flavor, fried chicken is a staple throughout Georgia. In fact, debates about who serves up the best fried chicken in the state have gone on for decades. Many soul food restaurants, including the historic Mary Mac’s Tea Room, have been serving the dish for years.

BOURBON

From distilleries in Kennesaw to Atlanta’s Old Fourth Ward neighborhood, bourbon has increasingly become a go-to spirit in Georgia, and local cocktails abound. For booze enthusiasts who prefer a more mature sip, Old Fourth Distillery recently released a straight bourbon whiskey that has been aged four years.

LEMON PEPPER WINGS

Although the hot wing does hold a tender (though spicy) spot in the hearts of those in Georgia, lemon pepper wings are the true wings of choice. Buttery with a subtle kick of tangy and tart, lemon pepper wings can be found in just about any sports bar in the city.

SHRIMP AND GRITS

Foodies would be hard-pressed to find a restaurant in Georgia that doesn’t serve shrimp and grits. Thankfully, each restaurant does provide its own unique twist on this classic Southern dish, from creamy to spicy to decadent additions like lobster. In Savannah, The Olde Pink House is best for a traditional taste, with rich country ham gravy and cheddar grits cakes.

SWEETWATER BREWING COMPANY’S 420 EXTRA PALE ALE

In the past decade, the craft beer scene in Georgia has soared. Among the most popular and tried-and-true beers is SweetWater’s 420 Extra Pale Ale. The herbal and floral year-round brew gets its name from the date it was born. The brewery also hosts its annual music festival in April.

VEGAN JUNK FOOD

Atlanta’s Slutty Vegan, a vegan food truck and restaurant, swiftly garnered praise for satisfying burgers like the One Night Stand made using a plant-based patty; it also features a sizable helping of vegan bacon, vegan American cheese, grilled onions, lettuce, tomato, and special sauce.

PHO

Although pho is Vietnamese in origin, bowls of broth and noodles (topped with herbs) are slurped with enthusiasm throughout restaurants in Georgia. Located east of Atlanta, the city of Norcross serves as a one-stop shop for pho lovers.

ICE CREAM

For something unique, head to Decatur’s Butter & Cream. Specializing in small-batch ice cream, they offer flavors like honeycomb forest and cashew crème brûlée.

PECAN PIE

Pecan pie might just be the official dessert of Georgia. With locations in Atlanta, Alpharetta, and Gainesville, Southern Baked Pie Company makes it easy to get your hands on one of its famed caramel pecan pies.

What to Eat and Drink in the Carolinas

BARBECUE

Expect slow-cooked, pulled pork that is lightly sauced, seasoned, and served on a bun or plate with sides. Sauce varies from region to region. Enjoy vinegar-based sauce in eastern North Carolina, ketchup as the main ingredient in the western part of the state, and mustard-based barbecue sauce in most of South Carolina.

BOILED PEANUTS

Green peanuts are boiled, salted, and served warm in brown paper bags sold at small stores and stands throughout the Carolinas (advertised by a handwritten sign). The texture is quite different than regular roasted peanuts (think chewy, not crunchy), but it’s an acquired taste that keeps you coming back for more.

CHEERWINE

The cherry-red Drink Cheerwine logo is a beacon of rural North Carolina, appearing on any worthwhile storefront. This cola has remained popular since the family-run company introduced it in 1917. North Carolina’s state soda can be found everywhere, from fast food restaurants to grocery stores.

SWEET TEA

You’d be hard-pressed to find a restaurant in the Carolinas that doesn’t offer this beloved drink, iced tea sweetened with loads of sugar and usually served with a lemon wedge. South Carolina grew some of the first tea leaves in the states.

BRUNSWICK STEW

This stew—of slow-simmered meat, tomato, beans, and corn—was traditionally made with small game like rabbit or squirrel. At the many, many roadside restaurants where you’ll find it today, it is often cooked with chicken or pork instead (and is always delicious).

LOWCOUNTRY BOIL

This casual, one-pot meal (also called Frogmore stew) abounds in the backyards and casual restaurants of Charleston and the South Carolina coast and coastal isles.

CHOW-CHOW

North Carolina’s most popular pickle is said to have evolved in resourceful country kitchens, where vegetable scraps were thrown into a relish rather than wasted.

MORAVIAN COOKIES

The Moravians, an early Protestant sect originally from Germany, settled in the area around Winston-Salem, North Carolina, as early as the 18th century. Moravian cookies, paper-thin wafers spiced and sweetened with molasses, are especially popular around Christmastime.

OYSTERS

Charleston is full of year-round oyster restaurants and celebrates seasonal oyster roasts (mostly during the winter months). In North Carolina, small oyster farms have recently increased in number, and mollusks at restaurants in Wilmington and the Piedmont compete with Charleston’s.

SHE-CRAB SOUP

This creamy seafood bisque, comprised of Atlantic blue crab, fish stock, heavy cream, and a small amount of crab roe has Scottish origins, when Scottish immigrants brought a similar recipe to Charleston in the 1700s.

FRIED SEAFOOD PLATTER

On the Carolina coast, sample this comforting staple: fried fish (flounder, catfish, shrimp, or anything fresh) served with a basket of hot hush puppies and sides of coleslaw and fries.

Best Beaches in the Carolinas and Georgia

CAPE HATTERAS NATIONAL SEASHORE, NORTH CAROLINA

Long stretches of unspoiled beaches hide behind tall dunes, interspersed with small villages along this 60-mile geographical treasure.

EAST BEACH, ST. SIMONS ISLAND, GEORGIA

Serving as one of the premier beaches on St. Simons Island, people flock to East Beach for sunbathing, water sports, horseback riding, and a wide selection of local seafood. The hard-packed sand makes it possible to bike along the beach.

GLORY BEACH, JEKYLL ISLAND, GEORGIA

Glory Beach, which was featured in the film Glory, is ideal for taking in some peace and quiet and observing nature from sand dunes to sea oats. A neighboring soccer complex is a short walk away.

NORTH BEACH, TYBEE ISLAND, GEORGIA

A short drive from downtown Savannah, Tybee Island’s North Beach is a destination for its local boutiques, water sports, eclectic dining, and birding trails. If the surroundings look familiar, it’s because it’s become a hot spot for filming. Most recently, the big-screen version of Baywatch was filmed here.

DRIFTWOOD BEACH, JEKYLL ISLAND, GEORGIA

Easily one of the most scenic beaches in the state, Driftwood Beach is filled with driftwood and trees that add unique charm. Driftwood is one of several beaches that can be found on Jekyll Island, which is a part of Georgia’s Golden Isles.

NORTH MYRTLE BEACH, MYRTLE BEACH, SOUTH CAROLINA

It’s easy to think that Myrtle Beach is little more than pancake houses, seafood buffets, and trinket shops, but off the main drag, downtown North Myrtle Beach still feels like the hopping little town where shag dancing first took off in the ’50s. Main Street dead-ends into the Atlantic at Ocean Park, a popular beach access with a kids’ waterslide, showers, bathrooms, and concessions.

BULLS ISLAND, SOUTH CAROLINA

Surrounded by wilderness in the Cape Romain National Wildlife Refuge, remote Bulls Island is unlike any other beach in the state. Although the human population is zero, the alligators, deer, and birds number in the thousands. To visit, take the Bulls Island Ferry over in the morning and spend the day exploring and relaxing on the boneyard beach, an eerily beautiful feature where the ocean has eroded the forest, leaving the petrified skeletons of trees emerging from the surf.

ISLE OF PALMS, CHARLESTON, SOUTH CAROLINA

The northernmost of Charleston’s beaches, IOP boasts some of the widest beaches in the Lowcountry and some of the best surfing waves. The island’s north end is home to Wild Dunes, a family vacation and golfing paradise, while the strip along Ocean Boulevard features hot spots for food and live music.

SULLIVAN’S ISLAND, CHARLESTON, SOUTH CAROLINA

No beach in South Carolina is more steeped in history than Sullivan’s, where at the island’s southern terminus, Fort Moultrie has guarded Charleston Harbor for centuries. It’s here that the state’s iconic palmetto flag was born and where writer Edgar Allan Poe found inspiration for stories like The Gold-Bug. It’s also an excellent family swimming beach, thanks to broad swaths of sand and an offshore sandbar that limits the surf along much of the beachfront. Biking the quiet neighborhoods of this small island, and renting a stand-up paddleboard on the intracoastal waterway, are other favorite activities.

NAGS HEAD, NORTH CAROLINA

Here, 11 miles of beaches include many with lifeguards. Plenty of accommodations line the shore. There are 42 public access points, many with wheelchair access, so you’re always within a short driving distance of one.

What to Watch and Read

THE SECRET LIFE OF BEES BY SUE MONK KIDD

This is the story of a young girl with a troubled past and the adoptive family (a group of beekeeping women) that takes her in. Rich, dark, and brimming with heart, the novel takes on South Carolina’s complicated history of race relations, racism, and forced segregation.

THE LAST CASTLE: THE EPIC STORY OF LOVE, LOSS, AND AMERICAN ROYALTY IN THE NATION’S LARGEST HOME BY DENISE KIERNAN

This dense nonfiction account reads more like an epic novel, telling the story of George Vanderbilt and the greed, love, and logistics that went into building what is still the largest private home in the United States. The Last Castle helps makes sense of the Biltmore Estate’s original purpose and existence, and the (sometimes bizarrely behaved) wealthy family at its founding. The author largely credits George’s wife, Edith Dresser, for turning the estate—and the greater Asheville area—into a center of business and tourism after its original decline.

BASTARD OUT OF CAROLINA BY DOROTHY ALLISON

Dorothy Allison’s semi-autobiographical bildungsroman stars Bone, a headstrong tomboy born under a bad sign and raised in Greenville, South Carolina, by tough women and often cruel, sometimes well-meaning men. Allison’s burning prose is full of sympathetic characters and portrayals of life under poverty, abuse, and other socioeconomic circumstances prevalent in this 1950s northwest corner of South Carolina—but seldom represented as well as in Allison’s work. Anjelica Huston directed the movie adaptation in 1996, starring Jennifer Jason Leigh and Jena Malone as Bone.

COLD MOUNTAIN BY CHARLES FRAZIER

Charles Frazier’s debut novel and opus is an Odyssey-like love story about a Confederate deserter trying to get home to his wife. Running a farm alone near Cold Mountain, North Carolina (where the Pisgah National Forest is today), Ada, a city girl from Charleston, learns some tough lessons about adjusting to rural mountain life. If you can get past the very mediocre Southern accents, the movie adaptation (starring Nicole Kidman and Jude Law), full of sweeping views of this gorgeous region, is worth a watch.

WISTERIA: TWILIGHT POEMS FROM THE SWAMP COUNTRY BY KWAME DAWES

Kwame Dawes’s lyrical, narrative-based poems tell the stories of African American women in rural central South Carolina. Dawes wrote his Twilight poems based on interviews he conducted with the elderly African American population of a small town in Sumter County, giving a beautiful and empathetic voice to these women’s powerful stories and generations of life, love, and survival.

SOUTH OF BROAD BY PAT CONROY

Conroy, who was born and raised in Beaufort, South Carolina, often incorporates dark, complicated elements of the state’s history into his narratives. South of Broad digs the deepest into Charleston and its history of racism, with a troubled but likeable narrator and a full spectrum of diverse Charlestonians at the novel’s center.

MIDNIGHT IN THE GARDEN OF GOOD AND EVIL BY JOHN BERENDT

Novel-turned-movie Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil is set in historic Savannah. The cover of the true-crime book quickly garnered fame thanks to the image of the Bird Girl sculpture, which has since moved from the Bonaventure Cemetery to a local museum. Released in 1997, the film adaptation was directed by Clint Eastwood and stars John Cusack.

AN AMERICAN MARRIAGE BY TAYARI JONES

An official Oprah Book Club selection from 2018 and a favorite of Barack Obama, Tayari Jones’s An American Marriage puts words to both the triumph and the turmoil of the New South. The novel tells the story of Atlanta couple Celestial and Roy as they navigate marital and societal challenges after an unfortunate turn of events.

LOWCOUNTRY: A SOUTHERN MEMOIR BY J. NICOLE JONES

The child of a prominent South Carolina family responsible for developing much of Myrtle Beach, Jones tells her story of Southern secrets, money, and debt and conveys the region’s great myths, ghosts, and beauty. This is a sweeping and heartfelt journey through the contemporary Southeast.

WHERE THE CRAWDADS SING BY DELIA OWENS

This New York Times best-selling novel is part bildungsroman, part murder mystery, set in the wild and isolated marshland of coastal North Carolina. The young narrator, Kya, is a talented naturalist from a young age; the coastal land and waterways, and the birds and marine life that call them home, play an important role in the novel. Reese Witherspoon is behind a movie adaptation of the best seller, currently in the works.

ATLANTA

Created and produced by Stone Mountain native Donald Glover (aka Childish Gambino), this television series provides an accurate portrayal of the city while also garnering praise from critics and viewers across the country. The show has racked up a number of awards, including Golden Globes for Best Television Series (musical or comedy) and Best Actor in a Television Series (musical or comedy).

ATL

ATL is a coming-of-age tale featuring a backdrop of Atlanta’s famed roller rinks. It offers a candid glimpse into the life of Rashad, an Atlanta teen transitioning into adulthood. The film also stars several well-known Atlanta musicians, including Clifford T.I. Harris, who plays Rashad. Outkast wordsmith Antwan Big Boi Patton also makes an appearance in the film.

THE HATE U GIVE BY ANGIE THOMAS

Both a highly successful young-adult novel and a hit movie, The Hate U Give is a poignant tale told from the perspective of an astute 16-year-old girl, centered around her experiences with racism, code-switching, police brutality, and the Black Lives Matter movement. The film adaptation, set throughout Atlanta, stars Amandla Stenberg, Regina Hall, Anthony Mackie, and Issa Rae, and is a moving, heartfelt watch for adults and teenagers alike.

OUTER BANKS

What may seem like a simple teen soap opera at first is full of action and satisfying humor, with plenty of mystery, buried treasure, and thrilling boat chases throughout. The two seasons of this Netflix series are a fun exploration of the North Carolina barrier islands and some of its main characters, from full-time fishermen to the wealthy seasonal crowd.

With Kids

Try these sights and events for guaranteed family fun.

WET AND WILD

NASCAR’s slick Charlotte Motor Speedway in Concord holds up to 89,000 fans on race days. On non-race days, racetrack tours—including a drive around the track—are available for kids and adults.

Get a look at 18 stock cars spanning the history of NASCAR in the Glory Road ICONS exhibit, test your tire-changing skills at a pit stop, or get the driver’s experience by sitting inside a racing simulator that provides virtual laps around a speedway at the NASCAR Hall of Fame in Charlotte.

Atlanta’s Georgia Aquarium is the largest in the Western Hemisphere, with sea creatures in 10 million gallons of water. Special programs are aimed at toddlers, and families with kids can take a behind-the-scenes tour to learn about all the aquarium’s animals and the care they receive.

Riverbanks Zoo and Garden in Columbia, South Carolina, supplies grounds for exotic animals like Siberian tigers, siamang apes, lemurs, and giraffes. More than 2,000 animals occupy natural habitats, while around 4,200 native and exotic plant species fill gardens. Civil War ruins dot the landscape, too.

EMBRACE HISTORY

Take a self-guided tour or follow guides in native costume at the Oconaluftee Indian Village, which tracks back more than 250 years, with demonstrations of weaving, hunting techniques, and canoe construction. The nearby Museum of the Cherokee Indian contains artifacts and displays that cover 11,000 years. Nature walks, dance programs, and traditional Cherokee dinners are available, in addition to museum tours. Both the village and the museum are near Cherokee, North Carolina, and the entrance to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

In Atlanta, the National Center for Civil and Human Rights has interactive exhibits geared toward a younger audience. Likewise, the Children of Courage exhibit at The King Center in the Martin Luther King, Jr. National Historical Park is a hands-on lesson about younger activists’ role in the movement.

Kids can climb Big Kill Devil Hill, where Wilbur and Orville Wright tested their gliders, at the Wright Brothers National Memorial, south of Kitty Hawk, North Carolina. Stand right on the spot where the Ohio bicyclists first took flight on December 17, 1903. Kids can bring their kites for a flight here, but no motorized aircraft are allowed.

HANDS-ON ADVENTURES

Along the way to major attractions, take side trips to spots guaranteed to please. EdVenture Children’s Museum in Columbia, South Carolina, is nothing but hands-on fun, from science experiments to climbing in a 24-foot fire truck and manning the siren.

Myrtle Beach is awash with activities guaranteed to bring smiles—and squeals—from the more than 35 rides at Family Kingdom Amusement Park to Myrtle Waves, South Carolina’s largest water park, and the many colorful Putt-Putt golf courses.

Meet Big Bird, Kermit the Frog, and Miss Piggy at Atlanta’s Center for Puppetry Arts, which houses the largest Jim Henson display in the world. The collection includes more than 500 puppets and artifacts donated by the Henson family. Another centerpiece at the attraction is a large global collection, with puppets dating back to the 1500s.

Chapter 2: Travel Smart

Know Before You Go

The Carolinas and Georgia cover a lot of ground—over 145,000 square miles combined! The somewhat unpredictable Southern climate and changing landscapes keep things interesting. There is a wealth of things to see and do—in fact, so much so that trip planning can often be overwhelming. Whether you are heading to the coastal areas, the mountains, or the modern metropolises, here are some tips to help you make the most of your visit.

GET OUT THE MAP

Yes, real-time GPS navigation is wonderful, but there are rural stretches throughout the Carolinas and Georgia where you can’t necessarily depend on cell coverage. Be sure to have a map handy for those instances where you may find yourself lost on a country road or detoured due to roadwork. There are still largely undeveloped patches of farmland and/or mountain terrain where you won’t find a cell tower. Even some of the coastal areas away from the interstates may have spotty coverage. You can purchase maps at most convenience stores or find them for free at tourism offices.

IT’S HOT, BUT…

It’s true that the summer months throughout this region are generally hot and humid. However, in the mountains and at higher elevations, it can get quite chilly at night, especially if you are camping. Also, even though it may be hot outside, you may be freezing inside. Air-conditioning is a pretty common and essential amenity throughout the region. Restaurants, shops, and other attractions in the Carolinas and Georgia aren’t shy about cranking the ice-cold a/c. A light sweater or jacket may serve you well even in the heat of summer.

BE PREPARED FOR WEATHER SURPRISES

It’s always good to have a rain jacket, poncho, or umbrella on hand while traveling. It’s especially true when visiting the coastal areas of the Carolinas and Georgia, where afternoon pop-up showers can be the norm in the summer months. Pay attention to weather forecasts in advance of your trip and pack accordingly. Travel insurance is also a good idea, in case of a significant weather event like a hurricane or snowstorm. Believe it or not, snowstorms can still happen during the winter months in much of the region and can effectively shut a city down.

LOOK FOR MOM AND POP

The familiarity of national chains can be nice while traveling, but to really get a true sense of local culture, look for the mom and pop independently owned businesses where you can. Some of the best small inns, shops, and restaurants are owned and operated by people who have a vested interest in their communities. Even if it isn’t a perfect meal or stay, odds are that you will remember it, and maybe even make new friends along the way. Especially in rural or less touristy areas where you aren’t going to find many travel recommendations, it’s fun to head off the beaten path, explore, and discover your own hidden gems.

TASTE THE REGIONAL SPECIALTIES

There are a few essential foods you must try visiting the Carolinas and Georgia. Along the coast, Lowcountry-style shrimp and grits are a must! Inland, you can try whole-hog western North Carolina barbecue with its sweet, tomato-based sauce pitted against eastern North Carolina barbecue with its peppery vinegar-based sauce. In South Carolina, there’s barbecue with a tangy mustard sauce. And, you can’t get through Georgia without trying something with peaches, peanuts, pecans, or Vidalia onions. To round out the list, here are a few other essentials: Cheerwine in North Carolina, hoppin’ John in South Carolina, and Brunswick stew in Georgia.

WALK WHERE YOU CAN

For the most part, a car is essential in this region. But, you will find most of the cities are extremely walkable and offer a variety of public transit options. Historic colonial cities like Charleston and Savannah are best seen on foot. If a walking tour is too much, book a hop-on/hop-off trolley tour for the most flexibility. In Atlanta, Charlotte, Raleigh, Columbia, and other large cities, look for walking tours that help you discover the neighborhoods and historic sites that define the character of local communities.

GET CULTURED

The Carolinas and Georgia offer some world-class museums and arts institutions, and some of them are even free to visit. Look ahead to see what exhibits and events are planned as some may require advanced tickets. In Atlanta, there’s the High Museum of Art and the Woodruff Arts Center, while Charlotte is home to the Mint and the Blumenthal Performing Arts Center. In Raleigh, you can visit the North Carolina Museum of Art and the North Carolina Museum of History (both free), and in Columbia, check out the South Carolina State Museum and the Columbia Museum of Art.

HIT THE PARKS

From the Great Smoky Mountains National Park in western North Carolina to Cumberland Island National Seashore in Georgia, there are several national parks and federally managed recreation sites in this region. If you plan on visiting multiple parks, consider investing in a U.S. Park Pass, which is good for 12 months (wwww.usparkpass.com). They are free for U.S. residents over age 62. Also, if you plan on visiting multiple state parks within the Carolinas and Georgia, you may be able to save on parking by purchasing an annual park pass for each respective state.

BEWARE SUNDAYS AND MONDAYS

When you’re planning your trip, watch out for these two tricky days of the week. In the smaller towns and rural areas of the region especially, you may find many shops and restaurants shuttered on Sundays, particularly in the off-season. Even in the cities you may find some restaurants open for Sunday brunch but closed for Sunday dinner. Monday is also a popular day for museums and cultural institutions to be closed and for higher-end restaurants to take the night off.

EMBRACE THE OFF-SEASON

Consider traveling in the off-season for a different perspective on the region. The coast can be just as gorgeous and relaxing in October as it is in June, for example. Plus, a mountain escape in January and February can sometimes offer even more wide-open scenery than the packed-out leaf season. Off-season rates are usually much lower, there are fewer people, and you can experience an area more like a local.

Getting Here and Around

d Air

Flying time to Atlanta is four hours from Los Angeles, two hours from New York, two hours from Chicago, two hours from Dallas, and nine hours from London. By plane, Charlotte is an hour northeast of Atlanta, Raleigh 75 minutes northeast, Wilmington 1½ hours east, Asheville an hour north, and Charleston, Hilton Head, and Savannah an hour east–southeast.

Travelers flying into the Carolinas or Georgia are likely to pass through Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport. It’s by far the most popular airport in the region and is the busiest in the world, at least in terms of number of passengers—more than 100 million annually.

AIRPORTS

Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport (ATL) sees more than 2,700 arriving and departing flights daily. There are 263 concessionaires at the airport, and Wi-Fi is available throughout, as are laptop plug-in stations. Hartsfield-Jackson has three interfaith chapels; the chapel in the atrium is open from 9 to 5 daily, and the chapels on Concourses E and F are open 24 hours a day. A customer-service office and staffed customer-service desks answer questions. Waiting passengers can also check out museum exhibits throughout the airport, including a display of Martin Luther King Jr. memorabilia on Concourse E. The international terminal, Concourse F, has several art installations to explore. Smoking areas are located on Concourses B, C, E, F, and T. Overnight visitors can choose from over 70 hotels and motels near the airport, most with free shuttle service. Give yourself extra time, as you’ll have to tackle crowds whether waiting to buy a burger, getting through security, or boarding the underground train to other concourses. The airport’s website regularly updates estimates of waits at security areas and on-site parking areas. Arrive 90 minutes before a flight in the United States and allow two hours for international flights. Allow enough time to be at the gate 30 minutes before boarding. Those returning rental cars need to allow time for that process and a short ride on the ATL SkyTrain (to the domestic terminal) or a shuttle bus (to the international terminal) from the rental car center. Keep track of laptops and be ready to collect suitcases as soon as they arrive at the carousels for security’s sake.

North Carolina’s Charlotte Douglas International Airport (CLT), near the border of North Carolina and South Carolina, is an American Airlines hub. Tired travelers can plop down in one of the trademark, handcrafted white rocking chairs in the Atrium, a tree-lined indoor crossroads between airport concourses that also offers a food court with mostly fast-food outlets. Within a few miles are more than a dozen hotels, most with free airport shuttles. In the center of the state, right off Interstate 40, is Raleigh-Durham International Airport (RDU), a prime gateway into central and eastern North Carolina. Its two terminals serve 11 million passengers annually. GoTriangle provides bus transportation from the airport to the surrounding communities of Raleigh, Durham, and Chapel Hill. Those who live in the western reaches of the Triangle are just as likely to use the Piedmont Triad International Airport (GSO), at the convergence of four interstates in North Carolina. It primarily serves the Triad area—Greensboro, Winston-Salem, and High Point—as well as some cities in southwestern Virginia.

The portal to western North Carolina is Asheville Regional Airport (AVL). It provides nonstop flights to Atlanta; Charlotte; Chicago; Dallas; Denver; New York; Newark; Philadelphia; Washington, DC; and, in Florida, Fort Lauderdale, Fort Myers, Punta Gorda, Sanford (Orlando), Tampa, and St. Petersburg.

For visits to the North Carolina coast, fly into Wilmington International Airport (ILM), a small facility with service by three carriers. Upstate South Carolina has the small but user-friendly Greenville–Spartanburg International Airport (GSP), which sometimes has lower fares than either the Charlotte or Asheville airport.

GROUND TRANSPORTATION

Of all the airports in the region, only Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International is well served by public transportation. The Metropolitan Atlanta Rapid Transit Authority, better known as MARTA, has frequent service to and from the airport. It’s the quickest, cheapest, and most hassle-free way into the city. MARTA’s north–south line will get you downtown in 15 to 20 minutes for just $2.50. MARTA riders can also travel to Midtown, Buckhead, Sandy Springs, and Doraville—reaching into north suburban Atlanta. MARTA’s Airport Station is located inside the terminal and can be accessed from the north and south sides of the terminal near the baggage claim area. Trains run weekdays 4:45 am to 1:15 am, and weekends and holidays 6 am to 1:15 am. Most trains operate every 15 to 20 minutes; during weekday rush hours, trains run every 10 to 15 minutes. You can print out a copy of the rail map from the MARTA website or pick one up at any station.

Charlotte’s Area Transit System (CATS) connects passengers to several city center locations with its Sprinter express bus service. The Sprinter operates every 20 minutes weekdays 5:05 am to 10:54 pm, and every 30 minutes weekends 5:05 am to 12:55 am.

GoTriangle provides public bus service from RDU to its Regional Transit Center, where riders can connect to bus routes throughout the region. There are designated pickup spots at both terminals.

Most of the airports in the region are served by rideshare, taxi, and shuttle services. Private limousine or van services also serve the major airports. In Atlanta, use only approved vehicles with the airport decal on the bumper, which ensure the drivers are charging legal fares and have knowledge of local destinations.

f Bicycle

Throughout the coastal areas of Georgia and the Carolinas, hills are few and the scenery is remarkable. Many bike routes are marked on North Carolina’s Outer Banks, around Savannah and Georgia’s coastal islands, and in greater Charleston and South Carolina’s Lowcountry. Mountain biking trails have popped up all over the Carolinas and North Georgia. The Pisgah National Forest and the Great Smoky Mountains are both national hotbeds for premier mountain biking. Cycling in larger cities in the region, especially Atlanta, can prove difficult. Although bike paths are available, riding on streets is often necessary and can prove daunting. However, biking is becoming more prevalent as public bike shares are available in Atlanta and the larger cities in the region. In Atlanta, dockless electric bikes and scooters are also widely available.

Printed state maps, available in bike shops and drugstores, contain useful topographic detail. Many tourist boards and local bike clubs also distribute bike maps. Google Maps can also be helpful in mapping out a bike route in real time.

Southeastern Cycling (wwww.sadlebred.com) has information on road and trail riding throughout the Southeast and free ride maps. Mountain Biking in Western North Carolina (wwww.mtbikewnc.com) has information on mountain trails. AllTrails.com (wwww.trails.com) offers information on more than 30,000 bike trails, including many in Georgia and the Carolinas.

e Boat

Ferries are a common, and often necessary, way to get around coastal areas, and especially to visit North Carolina’s Outer Banks and Georgia’s Sea Islands.

The Ferry Division of the North Carolina Department of Transportation operates seven ferry routes over five separate bodies of water: the Currituck and Pamlico Sounds and the Cape Fear, Neuse, and Pamlico Rivers. Travelers use the three routes between Ocracoke and Hatteras Island, Swan Quarter, and Cedar Island; between Southport and Fort Fisher; and between Cherry Branch and Minnesott Beach. Ferries can accommodate any car, trailer, or recreational vehicle. Pets are permitted if they stay in the vehicle or are on a leash. Telephone and online reservations for vehicles are available for the Cedar Island–Ocracoke and Swan Quarter–Ocracoke routes; on other routes space is on a first-come, first-served basis. Schedules generally vary by season, with the largest number of departures May through October.

Ferries are the only form of public transportation to Sapelo and Cumberland Islands in Georgia. The Georgia Department of Natural Resources operates a ferry between Meridian and Sapelo. Advance reservations are required and can be made by phone or at the Sapelo Island Visitor Center in Meridian. A privately run passenger ferry, contracted by the National Park Service, runs daily between St. Marys and Cumberland Island from March to November. The rest of the year the ferry does not operate on Tuesday and Wednesday. Reservations are essential, especially in March and April.

In North Carolina, the Cedar Island–Ocracoke and Swan Quarter–Ocracoke ferries cost $1 for pedestrians, $3 for bicycles, $10 for motorcycles, $15 for cars, and up to $45 for other vehicles (trailers, boats, motor homes). The Southport–Fort Fisher ferry costs $1 for pedestrians, $2 for bicycles, $3 for motorcycles, and $7 to $28 for vehicles. Tickets can be purchased with cash or traveler’s checks or online via credit card. Personal checks are not accepted. The other North Carolina ferries are free.

In Georgia, the pedestrian round-trip ferry to Sapelo Island costs $15 for adults and $10 for children. Advance reservations are required. The pedestrian ferry to Cumberland Island costs $30 round-trip, plus a $10 national park fee.

k Car

A car is the most practical and economical means of traveling around the Carolinas and Georgia. Atlanta, Savannah, Charleston, Myrtle Beach, and Asheville can also be explored fairly easily on foot or by using public transit and cabs, but a car is helpful to reach many of the most intriguing attractions, which are not always downtown. dingbat TIP → When returning rental cars to airports, always allow extra time to check in vehicles.

Although drivers make the best time traveling along the South’s extensive network of interstate highways, keep in mind that U.S. and state highways offer some delightful scenery and the opportunity to stumble on funky roadside diners, leafy state parks, and historic town squares. Although the area is rural, it’s still densely populated, so travelers rarely drive for more than 20 or 30 miles without passing roadside services, such as gas stations, restaurants, and ATMs.

Among the most scenic highways in the Carolinas and Georgia are U.S. Route 78, running east–west across Georgia; U.S. Routes 25, 19, 74, and 64, traveling through the Great Smoky Mountains of western North Carolina; U.S. Route 17 from Brunswick, Georgia, along the coast through South Carolina and North Carolina; and the Blue Ridge Parkway from the eastern fringes of the Great Smoky Mountains through western North Carolina into Virginia.

Unlike some other areas of the United States, the Carolinas and Georgia have very few toll roads. Currently, the Cross Island Parkway on Hilton Head, South Carolina, the Southern Connector in Greenville, South Carolina, and the Triangle Expressway in Wake and Durham Counties, North Carolina, are toll roads.

CAR RENTAL

It’s important to reserve a car well in advance of your expected arrival. Rental rates vary from city to city but are generally lowest in larger cities where there’s a lot of competition. Economy cars cost between $27 and $61 per day, and luxury cars go for $70 to $198. Weekend rates are generally much lower than those on weekdays, and weekly rates usually offer big discounts. Rates are also seasonal, with the highest rates coming during peak travel times, including Thanksgiving and Christmas holiday seasons. Local factors can also affect rates; for example, a big convention can absorb most of the rental-car inventory and boost rates for those remaining.

Travel Times Around the Carolinas and Georgia by Car

Don’t forget to factor in the taxes and other add-ons when figuring up how much a car will cost. At Atlanta’s Hartsfield-Jackson International Airport, add the 8% sales tax, 11.11% airport concession-recovery fee, 3% city rental car tax, $5 daily customer facility charge, and $0.80 to $1.30 vehicle license-recovery charge. These miscellaneous charges mean that a weekly rental can jump in price far higher than the rental agency cost.

Some off-airport locations offer lower rates, and their lots are only minutes from the terminal via complimentary shuttle. Also ask whether certain frequent-flyer, American Automobile Association (AAA), corporate, or other such promotions are accepted and whether the rates might be lower for other arrival and departure dates. National agencies include Alamo, Avis, Dollar, Enterprise, and National Car Rental.

ROADSIDE EMERGENCIES

Travelers in Georgia and the Carolinas have help as close as their cell phones in case of emergencies on roadways. The Georgia Department of Transportation’s Intelligent Transportation System works on three levels. First, drivers statewide can call 511 to report problems and get directions and information on traffic, MARTA, and Hartsfield airport. Next, on the 400 miles of metro Atlanta interstate highways, Highway Emergency Response Operators (HEROs) help motorists with everything from empty gas tanks to medical emergencies. Finally, the Georgia Navigator system provides statewide information on the Internet on roadway conditions and, in Atlanta, everything from drive times to incident locations and roadway conditions. Welcome centers statewide can also access that information.

In an emergency, drivers in North Carolina should call 911. In metro areas, such as Raleigh, Durham, Burlington, Greensboro, Winston-Salem, Charlotte, and Asheville, and in the Pigeon River Gorge area, drivers on major U.S. highways and interstates receive roadside assistance through the Department of Transportation’s Incident Management Assistance Patrols (IMAPs). The IMAP staff remove road debris, change tires, clear stalled vehicles, and can call a private tow truck. Motorists should dial *HP to reach the highway patrol and have an IMAP truck dispatched. In North Carolina’s congested metro and construction areas, use the NCDOT Traveler Information Management System (TIMS) on the Internet or via cell phone. Go to wwww.ncdot.org and click the link for Travel & Maps. Search for travel updates by region, roadway, or county. Both the Great Smoky Mountains National Park and the Blue Ridge Parkway lure travelers to North Carolina. The state’s western area has many narrow, steep, and winding roads near such towns as Asheville, Boone, Sylva, and Waynesville. Use extra caution there, and pay extra attention to winter weather reports for snow and ice when roads may be closed. You can also access travel information by dialing 511.

South Carolina’s Incident Response Program operates on interstate highways in urban areas including Charleston, Columbia, Florence, and the constantly busy Myrtle Beach area (specifically the U.S. Route 17 bypass and U.S. Route 501). Stranded motorists can call *HP for help and reach the local highway patrol dispatch system. The state operates hundreds of traffic cameras to monitor traffic flow and identify accident sites on all five interstates and in the Myrtle Beach area. They also have a camera at the intersection of Interstate 95 and Interstate 26, in case of hurricane evacuations. You can also get up-to-date travel information and traffic updates by calling 511.

RULES OF THE ROAD

Both of the Carolinas and Georgia prohibit all drivers from texting while driving. Georgia law goes further and prohibits drivers from using cell phones or other handheld electronic devices for any purposes while driving. North Carolina prohibits drivers under 18 from using handheld devices, but there are fewer restrictions for those over 18. Unless otherwise indicated, motorists may turn right at a red light after stopping if there’s no oncoming traffic. When in doubt, wait for the green. In Atlanta, Asheville, Charleston, Columbia, Charlotte, Savannah, and the Triangle and Triad cities of North Carolina, be alert for one-way streets, no left turn intersections, and blocks closed to vehicle traffic.

In Georgia, always strap children under age eight or under 40 pounds (regardless of age) into approved child-safety seats or booster seats appropriate for their height and weight in the back seat. Children younger than age eight and weighing less than 80 pounds must be properly secured in child restraints or booster seats in North Carolina. Child-safety seats or booster seats are required for children younger than six and weighing less than 80 pounds in South Carolina.

Watch your speed, as police are more than happy to write tickets to speedy out-of-towners. In Georgia, a Super Speeder Law allows the state to issue an additional $200 fine to drivers exceeding 75 mph on a two-lane road or 85 mph on any roadway.

l Cruise

Carnival has ships to Bermuda, the Bahamas, and the Caribbean that depart from Charleston primarily in spring and fall. Princess Cruises, Holland America, Regent Seven Seas Cruises, and Crystal Cruises occasionally call at Charleston. American Cruise Lines offers intracoastal tours that wind through historic Savannah, Charleston, and Beaufort.

q Train

Several Amtrak routes pass through the Carolinas and Georgia; however, many areas are not served by train, and those cities that do have service usually only have one or two arrivals and departures each day. The Crescent runs daily through Greensboro, Charlotte, and Atlanta as it travels between New York and New Orleans. Three trains, the Palmetto, the Silver Meteor, and the Silver Star, make the daily run between New York and Miami via Raleigh, Charleston, Columbia, and Savannah. The Carolinian runs daily from New York to Charlotte, via Raleigh.

Amtrak offers rail passes that allow for travel within certain regions, which can save you a lot over the posted fare. Amtrak has several kinds of USA Rail Passes, offering unlimited travel for 15, 30, or 45 days, with rates of $459 to $899, depending on the area traveled, the time of year, and the number of days. Amtrak has discounts for students, seniors, military personnel, and people with disabilities.

Essentials

r Dining

The increase of international flavors in the region reflects the tastes and backgrounds of the people who have flooded into the Carolinas and Georgia over the past couple of decades. Bagels are as common nowadays as biscuits, and, especially in urban areas, it can be harder to find country cooking than a plate of hummus. For the most part, though, plenty of traditional Southern staples—barbecue, fried chicken, greens, and the like—are available.

Atlanta now has a big-city mix of neighborhood bistros, ethnic eateries, and expense-account restaurants. A new wave of restaurants in Charleston and Savannah serves innovative versions of Lowcountry cooking, with lighter takes on traditional dishes. In North Carolina, you can find some nationally recognized restaurants in Charlotte, Asheville, Raleigh, and Durham. Outside the many resort areas along the coast and in the mountains, dining costs in the region are often lower than those in the North.

Vegetarians will have no trouble finding attractive places to eat in any of the larger metropolitan areas, although in small towns they may have to stick with pizza. Asheville is a haven for vegetarians; it has been named in many lists of the top vegetarian cities, including being named the most vegetarian-friendly city in the United States by People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA).

The food truck scene has made its way to most major cities in the Carolinas and Georgia, providing a quick way to grab decently priced cross-cultural eats at all hours. Websites like Roaming Hunger (wwww.roaminghunger.com) provide details on local food truck whereabouts.

MEALS AND MEALTIMES

The Southern tradition of Sunday dinner—usually a midday meal—has morphed to some degree, at least in urban areas, to Sunday brunch. For many people this meal follows midmorning church services, so be advised that restaurants will often be very busy through the middle of the day. In smaller towns many restaurants are closed Sunday. On weekdays in larger cities, restaurants will be packed with nearby workers from before noon until well after 1:30 pm. On Saturday, eateries in cities can be packed from morning through night. In small towns and big cities, weekday nights—when crowds are less likely and the staff can offer diners more time—can be the most pleasant for fine dining.

Southerners tend to eat on the early side, with lunch crowds beginning to appear before noon. The peak time for dinner is around 7. However, late-evening dining is not unusual in big cities, college towns, and tourist destinations.

RESERVATIONS AND DRESS

For the most part, restaurants in the Carolinas and Georgia tend to be informal. A coat and tie are rarely required, except in a few of the fanciest places. Business-casual clothes are safe almost anywhere.

WINE, BEER, AND SPIRITS

Blue laws—legislation forbidding sales on Sunday—have a history in this region dating to the 1600s. These bans are still observed in many rural areas, particularly with regard to alcohol sales. Liquor stores are closed Sunday in the Carolinas. Beer and wine can’t be sold anywhere before noon in North Carolina and South Carolina on Sunday. There are entire counties in the Carolinas and Georgia that prohibit the sale of alcoholic beverages in restaurants. Some cities and towns allow the sale of beer and wine in restaurants but not mixed drinks. In North Carolina, bottled distilled spirits are sold only through ABC (Alcoholic Beverage Control) outlets; beer and wine are available in most grocery