Everyday Dorie: The Way I Cook
By Dorie Greenspan and Ellen Silverman
4.5/5
()
About this ebook
To the hundreds of thousands who follow her on Twitter, Instagram, and Facebook, Dorie Greenspan’s food is powerfully cookable—her recipes instant classics. In Everyday Dorie, she invites readers into her kitchen to savor the dishes that she makes all the time, from Miso-Glazed Salmon to Lemon Goop.
What makes a “Dorie recipe”?
Each one has a small surprise that makes it special. Mustard and walnuts in the cheese puffs. Cherry tomatoes stuffed into red bell peppers and oven-charred. Cannellini beans in cod en papillote. The dishes are practical, made with common ingredients from the supermarket, farmers’ market, or pantry, like Sweet Chili Chicken Thighs, which is both weeknight simple and fine enough for company, and Eton Mess, a beautifully casual dessert of crumbled meringue, fruit, and whipped cream. They are easygoing, providing swaps and substitutions. They invite mixing and matching. Many can be served as dinner, or as a side dish, or as an appetizer, or hot, cold, or room temperature. And every single one is like a best friend in the kitchen, full of Dorie’s infectious love of cooking and her trademark hand-holding directions.
Dorie Greenspan
Inducted into the James Beard Foundation’s Who’s Who of Food and Beverage in America, Dorie Greenspan is the New York Times bestselling and IACP award and James Beard Award winning author of fifteen cookbooks, including Baking with Dorie, Dorie’s Cookies, Around My French Table, Baking Chez Moi, and Baking: From My Home to Yours, and a Substack with a hugely devoted following, xoxoDorie Newsletter. She lives and bakes in New York City, Westbrook, Connecticut, and Paris.
Read more from Dorie Greenspan
Dorie's Cookies Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Baking: From My Home to Yours Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsBaking with Dorie: Sweet, Salty & Simple Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Sugar Rush: Master Tips, Techniques, and Recipes for Sweet Baking Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Seventy-Five Receipts for Pastry, Cakes, & Sweetmeats Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsIn the French Kitchen with Kids: Easy, Everyday Dishes for the Whole Family to Make and Enjoy: A Cookbook Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsSeventy-Five Receipts for Pastry, Cakes, & Sweetmeats Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsDorie’s Anytime Cakes Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratings
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Reviews for Everyday Dorie
1,079 ratings71 reviews
- Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5
Sep 26, 2025
Such a sweet little bat. I love the effort Stellaluna makes to fit in with her bird fosters, and the efforts they make to be more like her. And it has a happy ending, which is always nice in a book about critters. [That's right, kill the kids all you want, as in [book:The Gashlycrumb Tinies|47558], but don't kill the critters, or I'll get cranky] - Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5
May 28, 2025
The incredible illustrations pull the reader into this charming book about a mama bat who accidently lets go of her baby during an assault by and owl.
The baby bat lands into a bird nest and teaches the birds to hang upside down in their nest.
A lovely story with stunning illustrations -- it doesn't get much better than this! - Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5
May 6, 2025
This is a beautiful book.... beautifully written, beautiful imagery, beautiful sentiment... that said, the high ratings are more from parents with little mention of their children, whom should be the targeted audience. My children don't dislike this book.... they just don't love it... they don't drag it out as often for our nightly reading as they do many of their others. - Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5
Apr 4, 2025
A tiny baby fruit bat gets separated from her mother in a thunderstorm and winds up in a bird’s nest. She tries her hardest to be a bird - stays awake during the day, eats bugs, stands right-side-up. But nothing works. When she and her adopted siblings leave the nest they run into a group of bats who show Stellaluna who she really is.
A little darker at the beginning than I remembered, so I skimmed over some parts while reading it to my niece for the first time. After that she knew what was going to happen so I felt more comfortable with the fright and getting separated from her mother. I really enjoy that everyone in this story is nice. The bird family is very welcoming to Stellaluna and the bird mother takes care of her just like her own kids, without question or ridicule. Stellaluna's efforts to be something she's not come mostly from herself, not external forces (aside from a couple comments about her being upside down). I also enjoyed the reversal at the end when the bird siblings meet the group of bats and try to fit in. Still a nice book, after all these years, with beautiful, vivid, and biologically accurate art. And I’m always happy to see a positive representation of bats. - Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5
Nov 12, 2024
Stellaluna is a bat, but when she was a baby, her mother was attacked by an owl while carrying her, and she fell far down into a bird's nest. Stellaluna tries very hard to fit in with the birds, but she likes to hang upside-down and can't land gracefully at all. Luckily, she discovers that her mother survived the owl's attack, and she meets up with a group of bats who teach her what being a bat means. Stellaluna remains friends with her bird nest-mates even though they are very different from one another. This charming picture book speaks to people who feel like they don't fit in, and shows how to be understanding to friends who are different. The author's acrylic and color pencil illustrations beautifully complement the story. - Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5
Nov 22, 2020
Such a lovely book. I'm a big fan of bats so of course, I picked up the book based on the cover alone. The book is very sweet and talks about how friendship is awesome, and how you don't have to be exactly the same to be friends - it's our differences that makes us special.
Yeah, I'm a sap - what of it? :) - Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5
Nov 18, 2020
This book is a really cute book for young readers. The story is based on a young bat, Stellaluna, separated from her mother and gets adopted by a family of birds. Throughout the book students can see the similarities and differences between birds and fruit bats. In addition, this book teaches students that some traits can be learned while other traits are genetic. - Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5
Feb 17, 2020
Cute story, one I don't remember reading when I was younger. - Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5
Nov 27, 2018
A young bat named Stellaluna is missing from her mom, but she finds other flying friends to live with. As Stellaluna is living with the birds, she learns their way of living compared to her own. They are not the same, but that is okay. Not everyone comes from the same backgrounds or lives the same way, but we can learn from one another and the different ways in which we do things. This book teaches young readers that everyone has their own identity and that it can be influenced by those around you, especially since everyone is different. - Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5
Aug 8, 2017
I like this one not only because it's a sweet story--it's really unfortunate when a kids' book isn't at least that--but because of its psychological realness, with Stellaluna the bat and the three bird kids flung together and needing to figure things out, gravitating close to one another and then shifting apart to grow on their own and then settling into a happy separate-together harmony. And with it the way the mama bird shifts from protector to antagonist without changing her fundamental caring nature, the way the bats welcome Stellaluna in as one of their own but don't force her to conform, let her share her own wisdom about where she's been and what she's seen and be friends with birds and live authentically. I can imagine this book being really meaningful to foster kids, and in a broader, less pointed way to children, say, growing up in a multicultural immigrant city and starting to figure out what it means that they and their friends inhabit the same public world and culturally different private ones, and how to respect their differences and negotiate them. In that sense it's timely for children here in Vancouver in 2017, where the mirage of a white monoculture has definitively fallen away and where the future will, as futures always are but as we never quite expect, be different from the past. In that sense it's got sociological realness too. It touches gently on social tensions in the same way as it touches gently on other things toddlers sometimes find hard to navigate, like the food chain.
And then finally just the feel and the atmosphere--the cool moonlight of Stellaluna's night flights, the gawky flailing of her wings as she starts growing into her body and realizes she's a bat not a bird, and learns to be who she is. The happy eerie magic of sonar. Even! the informational backgrounder at the end of the book (of course you skip those at story time usually) in which you learn that 25% of all mammal species are bats, that little bats eat meat and look like mice and big bats eat fruit and look like foxes and can have a six-foot wingspan! (I think I knew most of that but it's good to contemplate it.) Lovely bedtime book. - Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5
Apr 20, 2017
Flying one night with her mother, a young fruit bat named Stellaluna is separated from her parent when they are attacked by an owl. Adopted by the bird family into whose nest she falls, our noctilionine heroine must learn new ways, accepting bugs as food, and sleeping standing up, rather than hanging by her wings. When she is unexpectedly reunited with her bat mother, Stellaluna learns the true ways of her kind, which she attempts to share with her adoptive avian siblings. In the end, all must accept that while they are the same in some ways - they all fly! - they are different in others, and that is OK.
Originally published more than twenty years ago in 1993, Janell Cannon's Stellaluna has become a modern picture-book classic, exploring such themes as the loss of a parent, cross-cultural (or species) adoption, and learning to accept yourself and others. It also teaches young readers and listeners a little bit about the natural history of bats and birds, highlighting both the ways in which they are similar and those in which they are different. An afterword gives more information about bats. The artwork, done in acrylics and colored pencil, is lovely, capturing the poignancy of Stellaluna's journey, and the beauty of the world around her. Recommended to anyone looking for children's stories about difference and acceptance, or about the wonders of the natural world. - Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5
Oct 22, 2016
Stellaluna is a bat who believes that she is supposed to live with birds. She adapts to the bird's way of life, and she just cannot understand why she does not quite fit in. When she finally meets another bat, they tell her that she is not supposed to be living like a bird, she should stay awake at night and sleep upside down. This book talks about diversity, and how others from different backgrounds can get along and be friends, as well as also discussing how a bat lives their lives. - Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5
Nov 25, 2015
I absolutely adore this realistic fiction book. This is a realistic fiction because bats are real, and the actions in the book are things a bat legitimately does (such as fly and eat fruit, etc., however the personal story of the bat is most likely not accurate such as living with birds for a while. I really enjoyed this book because it explored the theme of belonging and being yourself and I think that that is always a good message for students. This book would be a good mentor book, and I would definitely use it in a variety of ways in my own classroom. I think this would be a better book for 2-4th graders. - Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5
Apr 30, 2015
This sweet story will connect students to their past experiences because the illustrations are so beautiful and the author does an excellent job of connecting the read to how all the emotions of the Stellaluna. It would be great in a writer's workshop for brainstorming and planning one's favorite memory. - Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5
Apr 29, 2015
I love this book for just about every reason. The illustrations are AMAZING. This book works great for a shared reading because you can really tell how the characters are feeling from her pictures. This is a great book for expression. And it's also a great book for writers workshop in just about every category. This book really touches on the main character feeling happy, sad, proud, embarrassed, alone, excited. So it's great for recalling times when you felt that way for planning and brainstorming. - Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5
Apr 27, 2015
Sweet story about how being different does not mean you can't be friends, in fact it's more fun that way. Also great for being yourself and being proud of it. - Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5
Apr 18, 2015
About the Author: The author of this book is Janell Cannon. She is an American illustrator and writer.
Character: The main character in this book is a female bat called Stellaluna
Plot/Summary:A mother fruitbat loves her baby called Stellaluna very much and would never let anything happen to her. When the two are attacked by an owl, the predator knocks Stellaluna out of her mother's safe embrace. Soon the baby bat ends up in a bird's nest filled with three baby birds named Pip, Flitter and Flap. The mother bird will let Stellaluna be part of the family only if she eats bugs, does not hang by her feet and sleeps at night.
When all the baby animals grow, they learn to fly. When Stellaluna and the birds are out playing, it gets dark and the birds go home without her because they will not be able to see in the dark. Stellaluna keeps flying, but when Stellaluna's wings hurt, she stops to rest. When she does, she hangs by her thumbs. Soon another bat comes to ask why Stellaluna is hanging by her thumbs. She tells the bat the story of what had happened after she and her mother were attacked by the owl. Another bat interrupts the story. That bat is Stellaluna's mother. Stellaluna and her mother are happily reunited and Stellaluna finally understands why she is so different.
Excited about learning how to be a bat, Stellaluna returns to Pip, Flitter, and Flap in order to share her new experiences. They agree to join Stellaluna and the bats at night, but find they are unsuited to flying at night and nearly crash. Stellaluna rescues them and the four of them decide that while they may be very different, they are still friends and family.
Theme: Discovering that they may be very different, but they are still friends and family.
Setting: The Setting is outside at night
Two direct quotes: "What was that?" pg. 4
"I don't know, but its hanging by its feet" Chirped Flitter Pg 4
Recommendation: I would recommend reading this to a classroom. It shows how everyone is different, but aside from their differences they can all still be friends and family. - Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5
Apr 16, 2015
Stellaluna is a wonderful book about finding where you belong. When Stellaluna is separated from her mother, she is adopted into a family of birds - who does everything differently than her! The mother bird shows her kindness and feeds her, but Stellaluna has to follow the rules of the nest so that everyone will stay safe. When Stellaluna eventually is reunited with her bat family, she clearly sees the differences of the lives that she has lived, and sees that though she and her bird friends are different, they can still be family. The imagery and illustrations of this book is fantastic, and the storyline would be really great for a young child learning about the differences between birds and bats. - Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5
Mar 5, 2015
I liked this book for a few reasons. I liked the illustrations, I think they really help to enhance the story and bring it more meaning. The overall message of the story is that it is okay to love and except people that are different than you. This topic pushes young readers to broaden their perspectives and think about families that are different than their own. - Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5
Mar 2, 2015
"Stellaluna" was a very imaginative and fun book to read; it is not every day you read a book about a bat who lives with and acts like a bird. Stellaluna is a bat who got seperated from her mother and fell into a birds nest; the mother bird took her in and raised her as her own, but Stellaluna had to act as a bird and not do normal bat things. For example, Stellaluna was sleeping upside down outside the birds nest and the other birds were curious so they did the same. The mother bird came home and was very unhappy so she told Stellaluna that she had to act like a bird, not a bat. This was also a good book because at the end it had an informational section on bats and the different kinds there are. The illustrations were very simple and straightforward. There is one illustration that shows the Momma bird feeding Stellaluna a grasshopper and it looked like a real picture out of an informational book. The overall message of this book is that it is okay to be friends with people (in this case birds and bats) who are significantly different than you, and that it is okay to be yourself even if others tell you otherwise. - Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5
Feb 26, 2015
I enjoyed this book for three reasons. The big idea is to accept that everyone has differences and these differences are what make us special. The main character, Stellaluna, can easily be identified with by any child that has been told to act a certain way. The story teaches children that they should not have to hide who they really are. Also, the illustrations are adorable and realistic. - Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5
Feb 24, 2015
I liked this book for several reasons. First, I liked the plot which was about a baby bat named Stellaluna, who was accidentally separated from his mother and ended up living with a family of birds. The mother bird took Stellaluna under her wing, feeding her and caring for her and even teaching her how to fly. While flying late one evening, Stellaluna is met by a group of bats and among them is Stallaluna's mother. Stellaluna quickly goes to tell the young birds that she has been living with and realizes that they are very different from each other. In the end, the birds and Stellaluna realize that it is alright that they are different, because they are friends no matter what. The plot is a great lesson for children to learn that even the most unlikely animals or people can become the best of friends and take care of one another.
Another reason I enjoyed this book are the illustrations. They are so soft and in beautiful shades of blues. The portrayal of the bats and birds reflect their gentle and caring character traits throughout the story. The pages and pictures are large and are an important part of understanding the story.
Finally, I enjoyed the imagery used in the text. For example, when Stellaluna was separated from her mother, the imagery and voice were strong and grabbed the reader. The text read, "On silent wings the powerful bird swooped down upon the bats. Dodging and shrieking, Mother Bat tried to escape, but the owl struck again and again, knocking Stellaluna into the air." This was pretty intense for a children's book, but wonderful nonetheless. - Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5
Feb 19, 2015
This is an excellent informational read about a fruit bat, Stellaluna and her adventures in surviving a sudden separation from her mom. Stellaluna comes across many different kinds of animals who she tries to mimic in order to feel like she still has a place in the forest. She first befriends baby birds in a nest and attempts to eat like the birds. She changes her sleeping habits and other bat-like mannerisms in order to fit in. Stellaluna comes to the realization by the end of the story that we must accept one and all, no matter the similarities or differences.
In my opinion, this is a great book to read to children for a few reasons. The first being, the story pushes readers to think about tough issues such as bullying, and could broaden perspectives about cultural differences and accepting all. Stellaluna gets laughed at and bullied by other animals when they witness her acting like a bird, which makes Stellaluna feel very sad and alone. A great discussion about respecting others, no matter how different, could easily stem from this story. The birds stand up for Stellaluna and say “doesn't matter Stellaluna, we are friends.” I also liked this story because it had a lot of great non-fictional information within. For example, when Stellaluna had to eat from the mamma bird, she squealed “yuck!”, and exclaimed that she was used to eating fruits like mango's, apples, and berries, not worms and other creepy crawlers. The author also depicts clear differences and similarities between the animals sleeping patterns, kinds of shelters created to survive, and foods they eat. - Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5
Feb 15, 2015
I enjoyed the language and the plot of this book. I loved the use of similes and metaphors throughout it. For example, when Stellaluna, gets separated from her mother, the author writes, "Her baby wings were as wimp and useless as wet paper." I enjoyed this quote as I read the book because it was a great way to explain that without her mother, she fell through the air hopelessly. Also, the plot of the book was filled with suspension. As I read the book, I continued to question what would happen next. One last thing that I enjoyed was the informational level of the book. After reading, I learned about a bat's diet, its lifestyle, and its vision. For example, I now know that bats eat fruit, that they hang by their feet to rest, and they can see in the dark. The overall message of the story was that no matter how different we all are, we can accept these differences and take advantage of the experiences. - Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5
Feb 12, 2015
Stellaluna is separated from her mother and is raised by birds, eating insects and definitely not hanging upside down. One day, while trying to fly as gracefully as her friends, Stellaluna is reunited with her bat family who show her how bats live. Despite their differences, Stellaluna and the birds remain friends. Although I didn't love the initial illustrations, I enjoyed the later illustrations, especially the one that shows Stellaluna with her wings wrapped around her bird friends. I also enjoyed the author's information about different types of bats that was provided at the end of the book. This book would appeal to young children as a read aloud book. - Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5
Dec 10, 2014
SUMMARY
Stellaluna is accidentally dropped by her mother into a nest of birds. They accept her as one of the family as long as she acts like a bird. She tries her best, but she struggles. Once day she becomes separated from her bird family. Stellaluna is found sleeping with her head up by a bat, which he finds unusual. Stellaluna is reunited with her mother.
REVIEW
I definitely see Stellaluna as a tale that relates to The Ugly Duckling. They both have very similar messages. Both books advocate that the reader accept themselves for who they are. The reader is special in their own unique way even though they might not see it at first. I loved that the author decided to do this story with bats. It was very humorous to watch a bat try to act like a little bird. - Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5
Dec 4, 2014
Stellaluna. By Janell Cannon. Harcourt Brace & Company. 1993. 48 pages. 0152802177. Ages 3-7.
After Stellaluna is separated from her mother in an owl attack, the fruit bat is raised by birds – but she always feels a little different from her avian siblings. Cannon’s classic heartwarming tale of difference, family, and friendship still rings true over twenty years after its publication. Her sweet characterization of Stellaluna, combined with soothing realistic illustrations in a soft color palette, make for a touchingly timeless story. Gently humorous illustrations (bats doing bird things – and birds doing bat things!) offer a gentle counterpoint to the emotional nature of the work’s message. A two-page spread of notes at the end even gives interested readers some facts about fruit bats. This is the sort of picture book that has something in it for every child, making the work a lovely shared read-aloud experience. - Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5
Nov 29, 2014
Stellaluna is the story of a little fruit bat that was separated from her mother when an owl attacked them. Stellaluna was able to survive and was raised by a bird who had three babies. Stellaluna behaved as good as any bird would even though she was so different. The birds learned to accept her and they became very good friends. This is a very nice story to share with younger children. Being different didn't impede the birds and Stellaluna to care for one another. I love books like this one where acceptance is one of the messages of the book. - Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5
Nov 18, 2014
Summary:
Stellaluna is about a little bat is separated from her mother when they are attacked by an owl. The bat ends up in a bird's nest where she learn to each and behave like a bird. Even tough Stellaluna is loved by her bird brothers, she fills just a little out of place because she still likes to do things birds do not do for example sleeping upside down. One day the bird are flying far and Stellaluna encounters a band of bats. The bats teach Stellaluna about being a bat and flying in the dark. Stellaluna wants to share the new found treat wight he birds but she finds that the birds cannot see in the dark . They realize that they are different but still love each other.
Review:
This one of the best books I have read. Stellalyna is cute and funny. The storyline is imaginative and the illustrations as super detailed. The writing is understandable by kids but is not kid like. The author over al did a fantastic job putting this book together. The lesson learned is powerful with out overwhelming the story line. The characters are relatable and so is the story line even though we are not birds and bats. - Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5
Sep 16, 2014
Summary:
Stellaluna is a cute story about a baby bat that falls from her mother’s arms after an owl attack. Stellaluna lands in a nest full of baby birds and is taken in and cared for by the mother bird. She grows up having to adapt to a birds way of life and therefore eats insects, sleeps at night and doesn’t hang upside down. Once the birds and Stellaluna are old enough, they jump out of the nest and learn to fly. One day they fly so far from home that Stellaluna loses her fellow bird friends and is once again left alone. A clan of bats finds her and wonders why she is hanging by her thumbs and not her feet. Stellaluna tells them that she was raised by birds and thought that what she was doing was the right thing to do. Then she finds out that one of the bats is her mother and they are reunited. Her mother is shocked to see that she escaped the owl and had to live with birds. Her mother and the other bats show her that she can eat fruit, hang by her feet, and fly at night. She then goes to visit her bird family and brings them back to meet her bat family. When she realizes how different birds are from bats, she doesn’t get discouraged because no matter what, they’re still her friends.
Comments (arguments/opinions):
Overall, I was quite surprised how cute this book actually was. I thought it was going to be a simple story about bats, but it ended up having a really adorable message about friendship and differences. I think the author did a really good job showing the differences between birds and bats while still being able to relate the information in a fantasy style story. I really liked how Stellaluna was raised by the birds and adapted to their way of life, before realizing that bats were different. I think that shows readers that having differences is normal in life, but that no matter what situation you are put into, that you can adapt to any environment. I also liked the ending of the story because even though Stellaluna realized that she was different from her bird friends, she knew that their differences wouldn't get in the way of them remaining friends. I thought it was humorous that the author threw in the parts where the birds tried hanging upside down with her and tried flying at night. I think these subtle but humorous parts of the story really make it fun and laughable for children. I also really enjoyed the illustrations and how precise they were with the details in the story. I also found it interesting that at the end of the book, the author added a section titled “Bat Notes.” I think this adds to further the reading and education on bats for the students. This small added section really emphasizes the educational use of this story. Overall, I think this story is a great children’s book because children can relate how bats and birds have differences just like people and that no matter what, we can still all be friends.
Book preview
Everyday Dorie - Dorie Greenspan
Copyright © 2018 by Dorie Greenspan
Photographs © 2018 by Ellen Silverman
All rights reserved.
For information about permission to reproduce selections from this book, write to trade.permissions@hmhco.com or to Permissions, Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company, 3 Park Avenue, 19th Floor, New York, New York 10016.
hmhbooks.com
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Names: Greenspan, Dorie, author. | Silverman, Ellen, photographer.
Title: Everyday Dorie : the way I cook / Dorie Greenspan ; photographs by Ellen Silverman.
Description: Boston : Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2018. | A Rux Martin Book.
Identifiers: LCCN 2017061484 (print) | LCCN 2018020409 (ebook) | ISBN 9780544835450 (ebook) | ISBN 9780544826984 (paper over board) | ISBN 9781328633521 (special ed)
Subjects: LCSH: Cooking. | LCGFT: Cookbooks.
Classification: LCC TX714 (ebook) | LCC TX714 .G75224 2018 (print) | DDC641.5 — dc23
LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2017061484
Book design by Melissa Lotfy
Food styling by Nora Singley
Prop styling by Ayesha Patel
v4.0421
For Linling and Joshua
Love. Always.
Acknowledgments
Writing cookbooks makes me happy. Acknowledging the people who help me do that makes me even happier. And thanking the people who have been at my side book after book makes me happiest of all.
My cookbook family includes Rux Martin, my editor; David Black, my agent; Judith Sutton, my copy editor; and Mary Dodd, my recipe tester. It still seems unfathomable to me that I’ve been lucky enough to have them in my life for so long. My work shows the marks of their intelligence, talent, energy, creativity and commitment, and I’m richer for having them in my life as friends. I love you.
Once again, as she did for Dorie’s Cookies, Melissa Lotfy has designed a beautiful cookbook. The extraordinarily lovely pictures are the work of Ellen Silverman, photographer; Nora Singley, food stylist; Ayesha Patel, prop stylist; and their assistants, Gigi de la Torre, Dylan Going and Joan Danahy, who pushed and pushed and never stopped until they had the perfect image. It was inspiring to be in the studio with you.
Making a cookbook is a project with many parts, and I was glad to have Jennifer Herrera of the David Black Agency help sort them out for me. The team at Houghton Mifflin Harcourt is so good at cookbookery that they make it seem easy. Thank you, Sarah Kwak, for your patience and knowledge; Jamie Selzer, for having a sharp eye for errors; and Crystal Paquette, for watching over the printing. Special thanks to Jacinta Monniere, who has the talent of a mind reader when it comes to deciphering a manuscript’s hieroglyphics. Extra thanks to Jessica Gilo, Houghton’s marketing genie — it’s a joy to work with you.
It makes me so happy that, once again, I get to thank Carrie Bachman, the best cookbook publicist in the biz, as well as Breanne Sommer, of HMH’s culinary publicity team, for helping to bring this book to cooks across the country. And a toast to my Monday night Riesling pal, Ellen Madere, for advice both generous and good.
Joe Yonan, editor, and Bonnie Benwick, deputy editor, at the Washington Post Food section, made a place for me at their table and, for two years, encouraged me to write the Everyday Dorie column. Special thanks to Becky Krystal and Kara Elder, for helping so much during that time.
Thank you, Jake Silverstein, editor, and Jessica Lustig, deputy editor, at the New York Times Magazine, for inviting me to write the On Dessert column. And more thanks to Jessica for knowing that Sasha Weiss would be the perfect editor for me.
It is impossible to underestimate what my family means to me and to my work. They are a part of everything I do, my wisest advisers, my best critics and my strongest cheerleaders. I may have written a baker’s dozen of cookbooks, but I don’t know where to begin to write how much I love you and how much your love means to me. Thank you, Joshua Greenspan, Linling Tao and Michael — the wonderful, wonderful Michael Greenspan.
Contents
Introduction
Nibbles, Starters & Small Meals
Soups & Salads
Chicken
Meat
Fish & Shellfish
Vegetable Go-Alongs & Go-Alones
Desserts
Basics & Transformers
A Pantry Alphabet
Index
About the Author
Connect with HMH
Introduction
The recipes in this book are for the food I make all the time. It’s the food of weekdays and weekends, of dinners for two and meals for a crowd. It’s the food I make in Paris, where I’ve lived part of the year every year for more than twenty years. It’s food from New York City and rural Connecticut, my two hometowns. It’s food from supermarkets and from farmers’ markets wherever I can find them. But no matter where I am, it’s food from the pantry and fridge.
These recipes, most of which are simple, none of which needs skills beyond basic, turn out dishes that are comforting, satisfying and inviting. I’ve often said that my favorite kind of food is elbows-on-the-table
— meals that are casual, put people at ease, can sometimes be eaten with your fingers and always encourage guests to linger, sharing stories and passing second helpings. It’s the way I like to feed my family and friends.
Whenever I’m cooking, I try to sneak in a little surprise. I love it when there’s something unexpected in a dish, especially when it’s one we think we know well. The first time I put walnuts and oats in meatballs on a whim and served them to some friends accustomed to their grandmother’s Sunday-sauce version, it didn’t go unnoticed. People perked up when I put strong mustard in the normally mild, cheesy gougères I always pass before dinner parties. And when I decided to stuff boxy bell peppers with cherry tomatoes and roast them until they were jammy and lightly charred, everyone adored the look of the dish, and no one could guess that what sharpened the flavors were anchovies, cooked until they just about melted into the bread crumbs I’d put in the bottoms of the peppers.
Since I’m an exceedingly practical cook and like to use what I’ve got on hand, I often change a dish on the spur of the moment because I’ve found an odd measure of something in the refrigerator, or a leftover from a different dinner. That’s how cranberries ended up in the Subtly Spicy, Softly Hot, Slightly Sweet Beef Stew — it turns out their distinctive tang is great with the Korean bottled sauce gochujang, the stew’s offbeat seasoner. Mushrooms languishing in the vegetable bin made my regular burger so powerfully flavorful that I call it the Umami Burger.
I’ve constructed my recipes so that you’ll be able to cook this way too. Whenever you see Choices
or Playing Around,
you’ll find ways to riff on a dish so that it will fit into the meal you’ve got in mind or will let you work with what you might already have in the house. I figure that, like me, when you’re ready to cook, you’re ready to eat, not shop for a missing ingredient.
If you’re a seasoned home cook, you may be comfortable swapping ingredients. You may think, perhaps, that making the Warm Squid Salad with the shrimp you’ve got in the freezer is a good idea (and it is). Or you may want to substitute pork in the Ponzu Chicken, also a good idea. Or skip the scallops in the Twice-Flavored Scallops and use salmon or swordfish or even eggplant instead — they’re all great with my favorite transformer, Lemon Goop,
which you swipe over everything while it’s hot.
I also help you work ahead. I feel like a master of the universe when I can pull a dish together quickly because I’ve done bits of it in advance — or even gotten the whole thing cooked a few days before. Cooking ahead is obvious when stew’s on the menu; it’s less obvious but just as helpful when you want to set out a bunch of small dishes for a cocktail party, a string of starters that will make an elegant small meal or a tasty and glamorous dish, like the Lower East Side Brunch Tart — I stockpile crusts in the freezer, so whipping it up is a ten-minute construction job.
And just because something is in the starters chapter or found among my favorite vegetable recipes doesn’t mean you can’t serve it as a main course. If you decide to make the Potato Tourte and call it dinner (I have, many times) or stitch together a meal out of what some would call appetizers, I’ll applaud you. I’m a mixer-and-matcher, a play-arounder, a snacker, a nibbler and a picnicker, and you can be too — it’s a fun way to cook, a fun way to eat and a fun way to have friends over.
Over the years, cooking food every day in many places for so many different people, I’ve become more easygoing. You’ll see that in my recipes — my food has become simpler, the flavors wider-ranging and my style more spontaneous. If I had a handful of rules when I first started out, most of them have fallen away over time.
These days I have only one rule: There must be dessert! Please follow it.
Cook, bake, share and enjoy.
Nibbles, Starters & Small Meals
Candied Cocktail Nuts
My Newest Gougères
Carrot-and-Mustard Rillettes
Honey-Mustard Salmon Rillettes
Miso-Salmon Rillettes
French-Asian Salmon Rillettes
Eggplant and Ginger Tartines
Black Bean–Chipotle Dip
Roasted Squash Hummus
Ricotta Spoonable
Pimento Cheese
Double-Stuffed Deviled Eggs with Crab
Western Frittata
Kale and Onion Frittata
Tempura’d Vegetables, Seafood or Even Fruit
Shrimp-Mousse Squash Blossoms
Pepper Poppers
Christiane’s Dinner-Party Terrine
Zucchini and Pine Nut Terrine
Oven-Charred Tomato-Stuffed Peppers
Giverny Tomatoes
Candied Tomato Peel
Poke to Play Around With
Lower East Side Brunch Tart
Tomato Tart with Mustard and Ricotta
Mushroom-Bacon Galette
Caramelized Onion Galette with Parm Cream
Candied Cocktail nuts
Makes 4 servings
I rarely disagree with Mary Dodd, who tests all my recipes, but we didn’t see eye to eye on this one. I thought the recipe served eight, but she said it served only one. So we settled on four, although the recipe can be multiplied infinitely. And it can be varied. In this rendition, I season the nuts salty, sweet, hot and herbaceous, mixing brown sugar, maple syrup and cinnamon, the sweet stuff, with red pepper for heat and thyme for depth.
a word on multiplication
If you decide to make more than 1 pound of nuts, crisp them on two baking sheets.
½ pound (227 grams; about 1½ cups) mixed nuts, such as whole almonds, cashews and walnuts
2 or 3 sprigs fresh thyme
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 tablespoon maple syrup
1 teaspoon brown sugar
1 teaspoon fleur de sel (or ½ teaspoon fine sea salt), plus more for sprinkling
¾ teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon piment d’Espelette or cayenne pepper
Working Ahead
The nuts can be kept for at least 1 week in a tightly sealed container. If they get sticky, pop them back into a 350-degree-F oven for 5 minutes.
Center a rack in the oven and preheat it to 350 degrees F.
Spread the nuts out on a nonstick baking sheet (or use a sheet lined with parchment or a silicone baking mat), scatter over the thyme and roast for 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, put all the other ingredients in a medium saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring, until the butter melts and the mixture is smooth. You won’t have much liquid, but it will be all that you need.
Add the warm nuts to the saucepan and cook, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes, until they are coated with the mix. Return the nuts to the baking sheet, spreading them out — they won’t bake well if they’re in clumps.
Bake for 10 minutes, stirring and turning the nuts after 5 minutes. If you want more color, bake for another 5 minutes or so. Transfer the baking sheet to a rack and allow the nuts to cool completely before sprinkling with more fleur de sel (or sea salt).
Playing Around
Think about swapping the thyme for rosemary (or even a little lavender), or going more exotic and adding curry powder, smoked paprika, ras el hanout or garam masala to the spice blend.
Candied Cocktail Nuts
My Newest Gougères
Makes about 55 small gougères or about 35 larger ones
Gougères are French cheese puffs made with a classic dough called pâte à choux (the dough used for cream puffs), and it’s a testament to their goodness that I’m still crazy about them after all these years and after all the thousands — truly, thousands of them — that I’ve baked. Twenty or so years ago, I decided that gougères would be the nibble I’d have ready for guests when they visited. Regulars chez moi have come to expect them.
Since then, I’ve made minor adjustments to the basic technique and more numerous, but equally minor, tweaks to the ingredients. I’ve flirted with different cheeses, among them Mimolette, smoked Gouda and a French sheep’s-milk cheese called Napoleon. I’ve added pepper — black, red and Turkish. I’ve snuck in a few different spices, and once, when I had a black truffle, some shavings. The recipe is welcoming.
This version, one of my current favorites, has a structural tweak: Instead of the usual 5 eggs in the dough, I use 4 plus a white — it makes the puffs just a tad sturdier. In addition, I’ve downsized the puffs, shaping them with a small cookie scoop. And I’ve added Dijon mustard to the mix for zip, and a surprise — walnuts. These changes are small, but gougère lovers will pick up on them immediately.
½ cup (120 ml) whole milk
½ cup (120 ml) water
1 stick (8 tablespoons; 4 ounces; 113 grams) unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces
1¼ teaspoons fine sea salt
1 cup (136 grams) all-purpose flour
4 large eggs, at room temperature
1 large egg white, at room temperature
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard (preferably French)
2 cups (about 170 grams) coarsely grated cheese, such as Comté, Gruyère and/or sharp cheddar
⅔ cup (80 grams) walnuts or pecans, lightly toasted and chopped
Working Ahead
My secret to being able to serve guests gougères on short notice is to keep the scooped puffs in the freezer, ready to bake. Scoop the puffs and freeze them on a parchment-lined baking sheet or cutting board until firm, then pack them airtight. You can bake them straight from the freezer; just give them a couple more minutes of heat.
Position the racks to divide the oven into thirds and preheat it to 425 degrees F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone baking mats.
Bring the milk, water, butter and salt to a boil in a medium saucepan over high heat. Add the flour all at once, lower the heat and immediately start stirring energetically with a heavy spoon or whisk. The dough will form a ball and there’ll be a light film on the bottom of the pan. Keep stirring for another 2 minutes or so to dry the dough: Dry dough will make puffy puffs.
Turn the dough out into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or work by hand in a large bowl with a wooden spoon and elbow grease). Let the dough sit for a minute, then add the eggs one by one, followed by the white, beating until each one is incorporated before adding the next. The dough may look as though it’s separating or falling apart — just keep going, and by the time the white goes in, the dough will be beautiful. Beat in the mustard, followed by the cheese and walnuts. Give the dough a last mix-through by hand.
Scoop or spoon out the dough, using a small cookie scoop (1½ teaspoons). Or, if you’d like larger puffs, shape them with a medium cookie scoop or a tablespoon and drop the dough onto the lined baking sheets, leaving about 2 inches between the mounds. (The scooped dough can be frozen on the baking sheets.)
Slide the baking sheets into the oven and immediately turn the temperature down to 375 degrees F. Bake for 12 minutes, then rotate the pans from front to back and top to bottom. Continue baking until the gougères are puffed, golden and firm enough to pick up, another 15 to 20 minutes. Serve immediately — these are best directly from the oven.
Storing: Although the puffs are best served hot out of the oven, they are still nice (if flatter) at room temperature that same day. If you want to keep baked puffs longer, freeze them and then reheat them in a 350-degree-F oven for a few minutes.
Carrot-and-Mustard Rillettes
Makes 4 servings
Rillettes is a total misnomer for this terrific blend, since the name classically refers to meat, traditionally pork, immersed in fat and cooked almost forever, while these chunky rillettes are made of quickly steamed carrots, cubes of cheese, lots of mustard and just a spoonful of olive oil. Still, this is what they were called at The Bar Room at The Modern, the restaurant at New York City’s Museum of Modern Art, and they were my inspiration for this recipe. At The Modern, the rillettes were piled onto a plate-sized piece of lightly toasted rye bread spread with crème fraîche and then cut into slices to be enjoyed with white wine or beer. Comté, a nutty cow’s-milk cheese from the eastern part of France, is the cheese that’s mixed into the carrots at The Modern, and it’s the one that I use most often.
Because I occasionally have crème fraîche on hand but usually don’t, I make a blend of yogurt and mayo flavored with mustard and sometimes speckled with toasted mustard seeds.
You can play with the cheese and bread and with what you spread on the bread, but there’s got to be one constant: the mustard. Use strong, fresh mustard, and use both smooth and grainy. Try to get French Dijon mustard — its flavor is best in this dish.
For the rillettes
1 pound (454 grams) carrots, peeled and trimmed
Fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon caraway seeds, chopped or crushed
2 ounces (57 grams) Comté or other nutty firm cheese (see Playing Around), cut into small cubes
2½ tablespoons grainy Dijon mustard (preferably French)
2½ teaspoons smooth Dijon mustard (preferably French)
1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil
For the spread
½ teaspoon mustard seeds (optional)
¼ cup (60 ml) mayonnaise
2 tablespoons plain Greek yogurt
2 teaspoons smooth Dijon mustard (preferably French)
1 teaspoon grainy Dijon mustard (preferably French)
Fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper
For serving
Bread (see Playing Around)
Fresh cilantro leaves (optional)
Extra-virgin olive oil (optional)
Working Ahead
Both the rillettes and the spread can be made up to 2 days ahead and kept covered in the refrigerator.
To make the rillettes: Cut the carrots in half the long way, then cut each half in half (so that you have 4 long pieces per carrot) and slice each piece crosswise about ½ inch thick. (If your carrots are slender, you can just cut them lengthwise in half and slice them.) Season the carrots with a little salt and pepper and put them in a steamer basket over (or in) a saucepan of simmering water. Cover and cook for 6 to 8 minutes, until the carrots are crisp-tender — they should retain some of their crunch and be only a bit firmer than the cheese. Spoon the carrots into a bowl and season with ½ teaspoon sea salt, a few turns of the pepper mill, the cumin and the caraway seeds. Let stand for 30 minutes.
Mix the cheese, both mustards and the olive oil into the carrots. Let the rillettes ripen
at room temperature for at least 1 hour, or up to 3 hours, before tasting for seasoning and serving. (If you want to keep the rillettes for up to 2 days, cover and refrigerate.)
To make the spread: If you’re using the mustard seeds, toss them into a small dry skillet and heat until they’re toasted, about 2 minutes. Turn the seeds out into a bowl, add the mayonnaise, yogurt and both mustards and stir to blend. Taste and season with salt and pepper if you think the spread needs it. ( You can use the spread now or cover and refrigerate it for up to 2 days. )
To assemble: Lightly toast whatever bread you’ve chosen and cover the slices with the spread. Top with the rillettes and, if you’d like, scatter over some cilantro. Drizzle over a little olive oil — or don’t — and, if the slices of bread are large, cut into slices. Serve immediately.
Choices: The rillettes can be an hors d’oeuvre or, if served with a salad (preferably micro- or baby greens) alongside or on top, a starter. If you’d like to make the dish part of a buffet or nibbles bar, double (or triple or quadruple) the recipe and serve the rillettes and spread in separate bowls, with the toast in a basket and the instructions that it’s DIY.
Playing Around
I’ve made this with Swiss cheese, Gruyère, Emmenthaler and even Havarti, and it’s always been great. I like serving the rillettes on rye, but they’re also delicious on slices of baguette, country bread or a multigrain loaf. You can choose almost any bread as long as it’s got some substance and chew — it’s got to stand up to the carrots and cheese.
Carrot-and-Mustard Rillettes
Honey-Mustard Salmon Rillettes
Makes 6 servings
For classic salmon rillettes, a spread is made of both smoked and fresh salmon bound with butter, flavored with lemon and only lightly seasoned. This version is zestier than tradition would have it, and the two variations that follow are more unusual, but they’re all perfect as an aperitif nibble (they’re made for white wine and sparklers), a brunch dish or picnic fare. I often double the recipe, keep one batch and spoon the other into a pretty canning jar to bring as a hostess gift.
a word on the salmon duo
This dish doesn’t need to be made with the most expensive salmon, smoked or fresh. If you can buy smoked salmon bits, get them. They’re sometimes cut from the end of the salmon fillet and so they’re a little saltier — taste before you add any more salt to the rillettes. As for the fresh salmon, I’ve had good results using frozen wild Alaskan salmon fillets. If they have skin on them, I put them — still frozen — skin side down in a pot of simmering water for 1 minute, and that’s enough to loosen the skin so that it’s easy to remove. Also, it’s okay to poach the salmon when it’s still slightly frozen — just cook for 3 minutes.
2 scallions
1 lemon
½ cup (120 ml) white wine or white vermouth
½ cup (120 ml) water
Fine sea salt
6 to 8 ounces (170 to 227 grams) fresh or frozen salmon fillet, skin and any pin bones removed (see headnote)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
1 small shallot, minced (about 1 tablespoon), rinsed and patted dry
Freshly ground pepper
¼ pound (113 grams) smoked salmon, cut into thin strips or small squares
¼ cup (60 ml) mayonnaise
2 tablespoons grainy Dijon mustard (preferably French)
½ teaspoon honey
1 tablespoon capers, rinsed, patted dry and finely chopped if large
2 tablespoons minced fresh dill
1 tablespoon minced fresh cilantro
Crackers, toast or dark bread, for serving
Minced (or thinly sliced) fresh herbs, for serving (optional)
Working Ahead
The rillettes are best when made at least 6 hours ahead, packed into an airtight container and refrigerated. You can poach the fresh (or frozen) salmon up to a day ahead.
Trim the scallions, mince the white and light green parts and set aside. Toss the dark green parts into a medium saucepan, add a thin slice of the lemon, the wine, water and a pinch of salt and bring to a boil. Drop in the salmon and lower the heat so that the liquid just simmers for a minute (3 minutes if the salmon is frozen), then remove the pan from the heat, cover and set aside for 10 minutes.
Drain the salmon (discard the cooking liquid) and transfer to a plate; refrigerate for 20 minutes. (You can refrigerate the salmon for up to 1 day; cover it once it has cooled.)
Using a flexible spatula and working in a medium bowl, beat the butter until it’s spreadable. Grate the zest of the lemon over the butter, squeeze the juice from half of the lemon into the bowl and add the reserved minced scallions, the shallot, a pinch of salt and a few grinds of pepper. Blend thoroughly, then stir in the smoked salmon.
In another bowl, stir together the mayonnaise, mustard, honey and capers. Squeeze a few drops of lemon juice into the bowl and stir in some pepper. Scrape this out over the smoked salmon mixture and blend well.
Remove the poached salmon from the fridge, cut it into bite-sized pieces and gently stir them into the smoked salmon mixture — even if you’re extremely gentle, the salmon will flake and flatten; go with it. Fold in the dill and cilantro, then taste for salt, pepper and lemon juice.
You can serve the rillettes now, but the flavor and texture are better if you pack them into a sealed container and refrigerate for at least 6 hours. Serve with bread or crackers and, if you’d like, put out minced herbs that can be sprinkled over each serving.
Storing: The rillettes will keep tightly covered in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.
Miso-Salmon Rillettes
Use the same amounts of fresh and smoked salmon and cook the fresh or frozen salmon as above. Beat 3 tablespoons softened butter until spreadable. Mix in 3 tablespoons white miso, grate over the zest of 1 lemon, squeeze in the juice from half of it and add the minced shallot. Season with a pinch of salt and a little pepper. Blend thoroughly, then stir in both salmons, 3 tablespoons minced mixed herbs (or use cilantro) and a squirt of Sriracha. Taste for salt, pepper and Sriracha.
French-Asian Salmon Rillettes
Use the same amounts of fresh and smoked salmon and cook the salmon as above, adding 1 tablespoon seasoned rice vinegar and a pinch of togarashi or cayenne to the poaching liquid. Mix the butter, lemon zest and half the juice, shallot and minced scallions together as above, and stir in the smoked salmon. In another bowl, mix together ¼ cup mayonnaise, 1 to 2 teaspoons gochujang, the juice from the remaining lemon half and 1 teaspoon seasoned rice vinegar. Add to the smoked salmon and blend well. Add the poached salmon pieces and the cilantro, then taste for salt, togarashi and gochujang.
Honey-Mustard Salmon Rillettes
Eggplant and Ginger Tartines
Makes 4 tartines
Like many cooks, I often make mid-dish changes either because I discover I don’t have an ingredient I’d planned to use or because I get a spur-of-the-moment hunch that something just might work. Because I’ve been cooking for so long, the tweaks usually work out just fine. But every once in a while, something really works out, which is what happened when I added fresh ginger to this baba ganoush–like dish. While I’d always loved eggplant for its deep, somewhat musky and mysterious flavor, with the addition of ginger, citrusy sumac and pomegranate molasses, I now love it for its lightness and brightness.
The mixture, more airy than dense, can be scooped up with torn pieces of warm pita, crackers or crudités, or it can be spread, thick and luscious, on slabs of bread to make an open-faced sandwich, or what the French call a tartine. I think it shows off its best qualities as a tartine. In addition, serving it as a sandwich allows you to have a little more fun — you can add radishes and pears for cool crunch, pomegranate seeds for acidity and surprise and something green for color and a touch of bitterness.
a word on the slicing and chopping
When it comes to the ginger, don’t be dainty — it’s nice to coarsely chop the ginger, to have it be more chunky than fine. If you have a slicer such as a Benriner, use it for the pears and radishes.
For the eggplant spread
2 eggplants (total weight about 3½ pounds; 1½ kg)
¼ cup (60 ml) tahini (stirred well before measuring)
2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses
4 scallions, white and light green parts only, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro and/or mint
1 to 2 tablespoons chopped peeled fresh ginger (to taste; see headnote)
½ teaspoon ground sumac (optional)
1 lemon
Pinch or two Aleppo pepper, cayenne pepper or crushed red pepper flakes
Hot sauce
Fine sea salt
For the tartines
4 large slices country bread (toasted if you’d like)
Olive oil
Fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper
1 ripe pear, very thinly sliced
Freshly squeezed lemon juice
4 scallions, white and light green parts only, very thinly sliced
8 radishes, trimmed and very thinly sliced
A small handful of soft lettuce leaves or arugula
Pomegranate seeds (optional)
Working Ahead
You can make the spread up to 3 days in advance and keep it covered in the refrigerator. You can cut the pear and sprinkle the slices with lemon juice a couple of hours ahead, and you can slice the radishes and keep them in cold water (drain and pat dry before using); store both the pear and the radishes in the fridge.
To make the spread: Center a rack in the oven and preheat it to 400 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with foil or parchment paper.
Rinse the eggplants and, using the tip of a small knife, prick them all over. Put them on the baking sheet and roast until they soften and collapse on themselves, 40 to 60 minutes, depending on their size. Leave them on the sheet until they’re just warm or have reached room temperature.
Cut the eggplants in half the long way; if the seeds are large, you can remove them. Scrape the flesh into a bowl and mash it with a fork or snip it with scissors — you’ll have about 2 cups of pulp. (If it looks watery, you might want to spoon it into a strainer and let the excess liquid drain off.) Blend in the tahini and pomegranate molasses, followed by the scallions, cilantro and/or mint, ginger and sumac, if you’re using it. Grate the zest of the lemon into the bowl and then squeeze in the juice from about half
