David Busch's Canon EOS R10 Guide to Digital Photography

By David D. Busch

David Busch's Canon EOS R10 Guide to Digital Photography is your all-in-one comprehensive resource and reference for the highly-affordable APS-C format Canon EOS R10. Beginners and budding enthusiasts alike will appreciate this 24-megapixel camera’s action-friendly 23 frames-per second continuous shooting capabilities. Image stabilization built into many RF-mount lenses – including two all-new RF-S optics introduced with the camera – virtually eliminates blur from camera shake at slow shutter speeds. Three available adapters make it easy to supplement your RF-mount lenses with a broad selection of legacy Canon EF and EF-S lenses. The R10 has wireless connectivity to computers and smart devices and high-definition 4K and Full HD movie-making capabilities. With this book in hand, you can quickly apply all these advanced features to your digital photography, while boosting your creativity to take great photographs with your Canon EOS R10.

Filled with detailed how-to steps and full-color illustrations, David Busch's Canon EOS R10 Guide to Digital Photography covers all this upscale camera's features in depth, from taking your first photos through advanced details of setup, exposure, lens selection, lighting, and more, and relates each feature to specific photographic techniques and situations. Also included is the handy "roadmap" chapter, an easy-to-use visual guide to the cameras' features and controls. Learn when to use each option and, more importantly, when not to use them, by following the author’s recommended settings for every menu entry. With best-selling photographer and mentor David Busch as your guide, you'll quickly have full creative mastery of your camera’s capabilities, whether you're shooting on the job, as an advanced enthusiast, or are just out for fun. Start building your knowledge and confidence, while bringing your vision to light with the Canon EOS R10.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Rocky Nook
• Release date: Feb 1, 2023
• ISBN: 9781681989556

David D. Busch

With more than two million books in print, David D. Busch is the world’s #1 best-selling camera guide author, with more than 100 guidebooks for Nikon, Canon, Sony, Olympus, Pentax, and Panasonic cameras, and many popular books devoted to digital photography and imaging techniques. His best-sellers include Digital SLR Cameras and Photography for Dummies, which has sold more than 300,000 copies in five editions, and Mastering Digital SLR Photography, now in its Fourth Edition. The graduate of Kent State University is a former newspaper reporter/photographer, and operated his own commercial photo studio, shooting sports, weddings, portraits, fashion, architecture, product photography, and travel images. For 22 years he was a principal in CCS/PR, Inc., one of the largest public relations/marketing firms based in San Diego, working on press conferences, press kits, media tours, and sponsored photo trade magazine articles for Eastman Kodak Company and other imaging companies. His 2500 articles and accompanying photos have appeared inside and on the covers of hundreds of magazines, including Popular Photography, Rangefinder, and Professional Photographer. For the last decade, Busch has devoted much of his time to sharing his photographic expertise, both in publications, and in seminar/workshops he hosts at the Cleveland Photographic Society School of Photography. He has been a call-in guest for 21 different radio shows nationally and in major markets, including WTOP-AM (Washington), KYW-AM (Philadelphia), USA Network (Daybreak USA), WPHM-AM (Detroit), KMJE-FM (Sacramento), CJAD-AM (Montreal), WBIX-AM (Boston), ABC Radio Network (Jonathan & Mary Show). He’s also been a call-in guest for one Canadian television show, and appeared live on Breakfast Television in Toronto, the Today Show of the Great White North. With a total of more than 200 books to his credit, Busch has had as many as five books appear simultaneously in the Amazon.com Top 25 Digital Photography Books, and when Michael Carr of About.com named the top five digital photography books for beginners, the initial #1 and #2 choices were Busch’s Digital Photography All-in-One Desk Reference for Dummies and Mastering Digital Photography. His work has been translated into Arabic, Spanish, Chinese, Japanese, Portuguese, Bulgarian, German, Italian, French, and other languages. Busch lives in Ravenna, Ohio, and you can find him online at www.dslrguides.com.

Book preview

Preface

The Canon EOS R10 is the compact, APS-C mirrorless camera that Canon enthusiasts have been waiting for. It has controls and menus that veteran Canon owners will find comfortably familiar and new users will grow to love as they explore its exciting enhancements. Photography devotees will easily master the camera’s capabilities, even though the sheer number of features and options can be daunting. The only thing standing between you and pixel proficiency is the disappointing booklet furnished in the box as a manual, and an advanced guide from Canon available only as a downloaded PDF file.

Everything you need to know is in there, somewhere, but you don’t know where to start, nor how to find the information you really need to master your camera. In addition, the Canon camera manual doesn’t offer much guidance on the principles that will help you master digital photography. Nor does it really tell you much about how mirrorless shooting might differ from the kinds of digital photography you may already be used to. If you’re like most enthusiasts, you’re probably not interested in spending hours or days studying a comprehensive book on digital photography that doesn’t necessarily apply directly to the enhanced features of your camera.

What you really need is a guide that explains the purpose and function of the camera’s basic controls, available lens options, and most essential accessories from the perspective of mirrorless cameras. It should tell you how you should use them, and why. Ideally, there should be information about the exciting features at your disposal, how to optimize image quality, when to use exposure modes like Aperture- or Shutter-priority, or the new, versatile Flexible-priority mode. In many cases, you’d prefer to read about those topics only after you’ve had the chance to go out and take a few hundred great pictures with your new camera. Why isn’t there a book that summarizes the most important information in its first two or three chapters, with lots of illustrations showing what your results will look like when you use this setting or that? This is that book.

If you can’t decide on what basic settings to use with your camera because you can’t figure out how changing ISO or white balance or focus defaults will affect your pictures, you need this guide. I won’t talk down to you, either; this book isn’t padded with dozens of pages of checklists telling you how to take a travel picture, a sports photo, or how to take a snapshot of your kids in overly simplistic terms. There are no special sections devoted to real-world recipes here. All of us do 100 percent of our shooting in the real world! So, I give you all the information you need to cook up great photos on your own!

Introduction

The first Canon EOS R-series cameras and RF lenses were given a hearty welcome by Canon owners who were looking for compact state-of-the-art mirrorless cameras worthy of professionals, enthusiasts, and ambitious beginners. Even owners of other brands took a hard look at what Canon was bringing to the table. Since then, the company has taken the next step by offering extra-compact APS-C mirrorless cameras, including the EOS R10 that’s the subject of this book.

The R-system has blossomed into a full-fledged alternative to traditional digital SLRs for those who want either a full-frame camera (like the EOS R3, R5, or R6 II) or an APS-C model like the R10 and its upscale sibling the R7. As I write this, Canon offers several dozen different lenses and two tele-converters in your camera’s native RF-mount, with many more optics scheduled on the company’s lens map projections. If you add in the dozens of existing original EF-/EF-S-mount lenses that can be used on the camera with optional adapters, and full line of electronic flash units and accessories compatible with both EF-mount and RF-mount cameras, you’ll see the company has built a formidable (and comprehensive) system quite quickly.

Of course, despite what you might read elsewhere, the Canon R-series cameras are not the first mirrorless interchangeable-lens cameras Canon has offered. That distinction belongs to the company’s Canon EOS M product line, a series of consumer-oriented cameras that were truly small in size, but limited in expandability. Those cameras, targeted at amateur snapshooters, allowed Canon to develop considerable expertise in mirrorless technology. Your camera builds on what the company learned in carefully designing a new platform that fully meets the needs of a much different group: dedicated photo enthusiasts, semi-professionals, and, even, professional photographers.

Still, you may be asking yourself—how do I use this thing? Canon’s manual is mind-numbingly dense, and online tutorials from ad-supported YouTube click-bait sites can’t cover all these features in depth. Who wants to learn how to use a camera by sitting in front of a television or computer screen? Do you want to watch a movie or click on HTML links, or do you want to go out and take photos with your camera?

The large, advanced manuals Canon offers (available in PDF format) are thick and filled with information, but there’s really very little about why you should use particular settings or features. Its organization makes it difficult to find what you need. Multiple cross-references send you searching back and forth between two or three sections of the book to find what you want to know. The basic manual is also hobbled by black-and-white line drawings and tiny monochrome pictures that aren’t very good examples of what you can do.

I’ve tried to make David Busch’s Canon EOS R10 Guide to Digital Photography different from your other camera learn-up options. The roadmap sections use larger, color pictures to show you where all the buttons and dials are, and the explanations of what they do are longer and more comprehensive. I’ve tried to avoid overly general advice, including the two-page checklists on how to take a sports picture or a portrait picture or a travel picture. You won’t find half the content of this book taken up by generic chapters that tell you how to shoot landscapes, portraits, or product photographs. Instead, you’ll find tips and techniques for using all the features of your R10 to take any kind of picture you want. If you want to know where you should stand to take a picture of a quarterback dropping back to unleash a pass, there are plenty of books that will tell you that. This one concentrates on teaching you how to select the best autofocus mode, shutter speed, f/stop, or flash capability to take, say, a great sports picture under any conditions.

Some readers who visit my blog have suggested Leave out all the basic photography information! On the other hand, I’ve had many pleas from those who are trying to master digital photography as they learn to use their camera, and they’ve asked me to help them climb the steep learning curve.

Rather than write a book for just one of those two audiences, I’ve tried to meet the needs of both. You veterans will find plenty of information on getting the most from the camera’s features and may even learn something from an old hand’s photo secrets. I’ll bet there was a time when you needed a helping hand with some confusing photographic topic.

Family Resemblance

If you’ve owned previous models in the Canon digital camera line, and copies of my books for those cameras, you’re bound to notice a certain family resemblance. Canon has been very crafty in introducing upgraded cameras that share the best features of the models they replace, while adding new capabilities and options. You benefit in two ways. If you used a previous Canon camera prior to switching to this latest camera model, you’ll find that the parts that haven’t changed have a certain familiarity for you, making it easy to make the transition to the newest model. There are lots of features and menu choices of the camera that are exactly the same as those in the most recent models. This family resemblance will help level the learning curve for you.

Similarly, when writing books for each new model, I try to retain the easy-to-understand explanations that worked for previous books dedicated to earlier camera models, and concentrate on expanded descriptions of things readers have told me they want to know more about, a solid helping of fresh sample photos, and lots of details about the latest and greatest new features. Rest assured, this book was written expressly for you, and tailored especially for the camera.

Who Am I?

First, and foremost, I’m a photojournalist who made my living in the field until I began devoting most of my time to writing books. Although I love writing, I’m happiest when I’m out taking pictures, which is why I spend four to six weeks in Florida each winter as a base of operations for photographing the wildlife, wild natural settings, and wild people in the Sunshine State. In recent years, I’ve spent a lot of time overseas, too, photographing people and monuments. You’ll find photos of some of these visual treasures within the pages of this book. You may have seen my photography articles in the late, lamented Popular Photography magazine. I’ve also written about 2,000 articles for magazines like Rangefinder, Professional Photographer, and dozens of other photographic publications. Since the pandemic ebbed, I have resumed giving presentations and workshops, at least monthly, at camera clubs and for my fellow members of the Professional Photographers of America.

Like all my digital photography books, this one was written by a Canon devotee with an incurable photography bug who has used Canon cameras professionally for longer than I care to admit. Over the years, I’ve worked as a sports photographer for an Ohio newspaper and for an upstate New York college. I’ve operated my own commercial studio and photo lab, cranking out product shots on demand and then printing a few hundred glossy 8 × 10s on a tight deadline for a press kit. I’ve served as a photo-posing instructor for a modeling agency. People have actually paid me to shoot their weddings and immortalize them with portraits. I even prepared press kits and articles on photography as a PR consultant for a large Rochester, NY company, which older readers may recall as an industry giant. My trials and travails with imaging and computer technology have made their way into print in book form an alarming number of times, including a few dozen on scanners and photography.

Like you, I love photography for its own merits, and I view technology as just another tool to help me get the images I see in my mind’s eye. But, also like you, I had to master this technology before I could apply it to my work. This book is the result of what I’ve learned, and I hope it will help you master your Canon camera, too.

In closing, I’d like to ask a special favor: let me know what you think of this book. If you have any recommendations about how I can make it better, visit my website at www.canonguides.com, click on the E-Mail Me tab, and send your comments, suggestions on topics that should be explained in more detail, or, especially, any typos. (The latter will be compiled on the Errata page you’ll also find on my website.) You can also find me on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/DavidBuschGuides. I really value your ideas and appreciate it when you take the time to tell me what you think! Most of the organization and some of the content of the book you hold in your hands came from suggestions I received from readers like you. If you found this book especially useful, tell others about it. Visit https://www.amazon.com/dp/1681989530 and leave a positive review. Your feedback is what spurs me to make each one of these books better than the last. Thanks!

1

Thinking Outside the Box

If you’re like me, the first thing you probably did when you extracted your Canon EOS R10 from the box was attach one of the available RF-mount lenses, power the beast up, and begin taking photos through a tentative trial-and-error process. Who has time to even scan a manual when you’re holding in your hands Canon’s ultra-compact APS-C camera? If you’re a veteran Canon shooter, you probably found many of the controls and menus very similar to what you’re used to, even though the camera itself may be much more compact and lighter in weight than your previous model. At the same time, you discovered that there are many changes from the traditional Canon physical layout and feature set.

So, you adapted and managed to take a few hundred (or thousand) photos with your new camera, and now you’re ready to learn more. Along the way, you’ve noted some intriguing features and adjustments that you need to master. Of course, it’s possible you may be new to the Canon world, or this may be your first advanced digital camera, and you need some guidance in learning to use all the creative options it has to offer. In either case, despite your surging creative juices, I recommend a more considered approach to learning how to operate the camera. This chapter and the next are designed to get your camera fired up and ready for shooting as quickly as possible. And while it boasts both automatic settings (which Canon calls Basic Zone modes) and versatile semi-automatic modes (in the so-called Creative Zone), you’ll want to fully explore all the capabilities of the R10.

So, to help you begin shooting as quickly as possible, I’m going to first provide a basic pre-flight checklist that you need to complete before you really spread your wings and take off. You won’t find a lot of detail in these initial two chapters. Indeed, I’m going to tell you just what you absolutely must understand, accompanied by some interesting tidbits that will help you become acclimated to your camera. I’ll go into more depth and even repeat a little of what I explain here in the chapters that follow, so you don’t have to memorize everything you see. Just relax, follow a few easy steps, and then go out and begin taking your best shots—ever.

I hope that even long-time Canon owners won’t be tempted to skip this chapter or the next one. No matter how extensive your experience level is with dSLRs or previous mirrorless models, your new camera has a lot of differences from what you may be used to. Yet, I realize you don’t want to wade through a manual to find out what you must know to take those first few tentative snaps. I’m going to help you hit the ground running with this chapter, which will help you set up your camera and begin shooting in minutes. Because some of you may already have experience with previous Canon cameras, each of the major sections in this chapter will begin with a brief description of what is covered in that section, so you can easily jump ahead to the next if you are in a hurry to get started.

First Things First

This section helps get you oriented with all the things that come in the box with your Canon EOS R10, including what they do. I’ll also describe some optional equipment you might want to have. If you want to get started immediately, skim through this section and jump ahead to Initial Setup later in this chapter.

The first thing to do is carefully unpack the camera and double-check the contents. At a minimum, the box should have the following:

■ Canon EOS R10 digital camera. It almost goes without saying that you should check out the camera immediately, making sure the color LCD screen on the back isn’t scratched or cracked, the memory/battery door on the bottom opens properly, and, when a charged battery is inserted and lens mounted, the camera powers up and reports for duty. Out-of-the-box defects like these are rare, but they can happen. It’s probably more common that your dealer played with the camera or, perhaps, it was a customer return. That’s why it’s best to buy your camera from a retailer you trust to supply a factory-fresh camera.

■ Lens (optional). At its introduction, this camera was available as a body only, and in a kit with either the RF-S 18-45mm f/4.5-6.3 IS STM lens, or the versatile RF-S 18-150mm f/3.5-6.3 IS STM lens. A few photographers with a heavy investment in Canon dSLR gear might have eschewed any RF-mount option and got one of the three available mount adapters to use with their existing EF and EF-S lenses.

My recommendation: Your R10, along with its upscale sibling the R7, are the first two APS-C mirrorless cameras Canon has introduced for its R-series product line. At introduction, there were only two RF-S lenses available, the aforementioned 18-150mm kit lens and the RF-S 18-45mm f/4.5-6.3 IS STM lens. But don’t think that your lens choices are limited! As I write this, there are almost 30 different RF and RF-S lenses: from the exotic Canon RF 5.2mm f/2.8 L Dual Fisheye 3D VR lens to the super-telephoto Canon RF 1200mm f/8 L IS USM optic.

Canon will surely be expanding its APS-C format RF-S lens product line, but enthusiasts can still select any of the relatively affordable RF lenses available for EOS R full-frame models, such as the Canon RF 24-105mm f/4-7.1 IS STM lens ($399) or its deluxe counterpart, the Canon RF 24-105mm f/4 L IS USM lens ($1,299). While the full-frame RF-mount lenses may be a bit bulkier, you’ll be able to use them should you later upgrade to a full-frame camera. I’ll explain your lens options (and decode the alphabet soup of Canon’s lens nomenclature) in more detail in Chapter 7.

■ Battery Pack LP-E17. You’ll need to charge this 7.2V, 1040mAh (milliampere hour) battery before using it. I’ll offer instructions later in this section. It should be furnished with a protective cover, which should always be mounted on the battery when it is not inside the camera, to avoid shorting out the contacts.

■ Battery Charger LC-E17/LC-E17E. One of these chargers, described in the Initial Setup section that follows this one, is required to vitalize the LP-E17 battery.

■ Neck strap ER-R10. Canon provides you with a steal me neck strap emblazoned with your camera model. It’s not very adjustable, and, while useful for showing off to your friends exactly which nifty new camera you bought, it’s probably not your best option, and also can serve to alert observant unsavory types that you’re sporting a higher-end model that’s worthy of their attention.

My recommendation: I never attach the Canon strap to my cameras. I generally use a plain strap and avoid holsters, slings, chest straps, or any support that dangles my camera upside down from the tripod socket and allows it to swing around too freely when I’m on the run. Give me a strap I can hang over either shoulder, or sling around my neck, and I am happy. However, you may prefer one of the alternatives available from third parties.

■ Lens accessories (if you purchased a kit). If you purchased your camera with a lens, you’ll also receive accessories, including the LF-N1 rear lens cap. The lens will also be furnished with a front lens cap of appropriate diameter and may include a case. The Canon RF 24-105 f/4 L IS USM lens comes with a Canon E-77 II and LP1319 lens case, for example.

■ Camera cover RF-5. The body cap keeps dust from infiltrating your camera when a lens is not mounted. Always carry a body cap (and rear lens cap). When not in use, the body cap/rear lens cap nest together for compact storage.

■ Warranty and registration card. Don’t lose these! You can register your camera by mail, although you don’t really need to in order to keep your warranty in force, but you may need the information in this paperwork (plus the purchase receipt/invoice from your retailer) should you require Canon service support.

There are a few things Canon classifies as optional accessories, even though you (and I) might consider some of them essential. Here’s a list of what you don’t get in the box, but you might want to think about as an impending purchase. I’ll list them roughly in the order of importance:

■ Memory card. You’ll need at least one memory card, as one is not furnished with the camera.

My recommendation: You really need a memory card that’s a minimum of 32GB in size, and a 64GB or larger card would be much better. With 24.2 megapixels of resolution, this camera will fill up smaller cards quite rapidly.

■ Extra LP-E17 battery. Your camera’s sensor and either electronic viewfinder or rear-panel LCD screen are active for long periods of time as you use your camera, so battery life may be less than what you’re used to. Canon estimates you should get 210 to 290 shots per charge from a single battery when using the electronic viewfinder, and 350 to 450 shots if you’re working exclusively with the back-panel LCD monitor. It’s easy to exceed that figure in a few hours of shooting sports at 15 fps (23 fps with the electronic shutter). Batteries can unexpectedly fail, too, or simply lose their charge from sitting around unused for a week or two.

My recommendation: Buy an extra battery (I own four, in total), keep it charged, and free your mind from worry. The LP-E17 can be charged inside the camera with the USB Power Adapter PD-E1, described in the next section.

■ Interface Cable IFC-100U. For about $50, Canon will sell you this 1 meter/3.2-foot USB 3.0 Type-C cable to transfer photos from the camera to your computer (not recommended), to upload and download settings between the camera and your computer (highly recommended), and to operate your camera remotely using the EOS Utility software you can download from the Support page of your country’s Canon website.

My recommendation: Canon’s pricey cable has Type-C connectors at either end—which means it won’t connect to an older computer that is equipped only with Type-A ports. In any case, you can buy Type-C-to-Type-C or Type-C-to-Type-A cables for a lot less than half a Benjamin. However, some generic Type-C-to-Type-A cables I’ve tried do not work properly, particularly with the EOS Utility (an application that allows your computer to communicate with the camera for downloading and displaying images, remote shooting, and control of camera settings). You’ll need to test yours if you’re trying to save a few dollars. I don’t recommend using the cable to transfer images. Direct transfer uses a lot of battery power and is potentially much slower. Get a card reader.

■ User’s manuals. Canon provides only a minimal printed manual. It’s a small booklet, but deceptively thick, as only 28 pages are in English, with the rest of the content repeating the same information in Spanish and French. If you need a more comprehensive manual to supplement this book, you’ll have to download a PDF version, available from your country’s Canon website.

■ Add-on Speedlite. The R10 does include a pop-up electronic flash, but it’s a little anemic and best used for fill-flash to brighten shadows or to trigger off-camera flash units. It has a guide number of 19.7/6 (in feet/meters) at ISO 100, which means you’d need an aperture of about f/2 to illuminate a subject 10 feet from your camera. (Tip: You’ll want to boost your ISO to ISO 800 to ISO 1600 if using the built-in flash as your main light source.)

A better option is an external Speedlite. Canon offers a large selection of external flash units, ranging from the flagship EL-1 (which costs $1,100!) down to more reasonably priced units like the Canon Speedlite EL-100 at about $149.

My recommendation: Your add-on flash can function as the main illumination for your photo, or it can be softened and used to fill in shadows. If you do much flash photography at all, consider a Speedlite as an important accessory. For the most flexibility when lighting your subject, you’ll need two flash units: one on the camera to be used as a transmitter, and one off-camera flash triggered wirelessly as a receiver. (Canon also offers the ST-E2 and ST-E3-RT transmitter/triggers which can mount on the accessory shoe and serve as masters.)

■ Mount adapters. If you already own a collection of Canon EF and EF-S lenses, Canon offers three adapters that will let you use those lenses on any R-series camera. One is a mount adapter only, a second adds a customizable control ring to your EF/EF-S lenses like those found on the RF optics themselves, while a third includes a drop-in filter carrier that lets you use a single-size filter behind the rear element of the EF/EF-S lens. That includes polarizers and variable neutral-density filters, and the capability works with lenses that ordinarily can’t use screw-in filters at all, such as the Canon EF 11-24mm f/4L USM or Canon Tilt/Shift TS-E 17mm f/4L lenses. I’ll describe the three mount adapters in more detail in Chapter 7, which deals with your full range of lens options for the EOS R10.

■ AC Adapter Kit AC-E6N. This device is used with a DC coupler, the DR-E18, that replaces the LP-E17 battery and powers the camera from AC current.

My recommendation: There are several typical situations where this capability can come in handy: when you’re cleaning the sensor manually and want to totally eliminate the possibility that a lack of juice will cause the fragile shutter to spring to life during the process; when indoors shooting tabletop photos, portraits, class pictures, and so forth for hours on end; when using your camera for remote shooting as well as time-lapse photography; for extensive review of images on your television; or for file transfer to your computer. These all use prodigious amounts of power, which can be provided by this AC adapter.

■ Remote controls. Although the self-timer can be used to trigger your tripod-mounted camera without any vibration, it’s more convenient to use a wired or wireless remote control to trip the shutter.

My recommendation: The Canon BR-E1 wireless remote control uses Bluetooth up to a distance of about 16 feet (and doesn’t require a line of sight to the camera). It also has an AF button for autofocus during video shooting. Or, you can opt for wired remotes like the Canon RS-60E3 remote switch, which plugs into the Canon N3-type connection on the left side of the camera.

■ HDMI cable. You’ll need an optional HDMI Type-A (standard) to Type-D (micro) cable if you want to connect your camera directly to an HDTV for viewing your images.

My recommendation: I use standard HDMI micro (Type D) cables in 6- and 9-foot lengths. They work fine, and I can buy several for the price of one Canon-branded cable. Canon recommends against using cables longer than that.

Initial Setup

Many owners can skip this section, which describes basic setup steps. I’m including it at the request of ambitious photo buffs who have upgraded to this mirrorless camera after switching from a Canon dSLR, another camera brand, or an entry-level model from any manufacturer.

The initial setup of your camera is fast and easy. Basically, you just need to charge the battery, attach a lens, adjust the viewfinder for your vision, insert and format at least one memory card, and make a few settings. Each of these steps is easy, and if you’ve used a previous EOS model, you already know exactly what to do. I’m going to provide a little extra detail for those of you who are new to the Canon or digital SLR worlds.

Power Options

Your Canon EOS R10 is a sophisticated hunk of machinery and electronics, but it needs a charged battery to function, so rejuvenating the LP-E17 lithium-ion battery pack furnished with your camera should be your first step. A fully charged power source should be good for approximately 210 to 450 shots, more or less, depending on whether you’re using the LCD or viewfinder to compose your shots. This rough estimate is based on standard tests defined by the Camera & Imaging Products Association (CIPA) document DC-002.

All rechargeable batteries undergo some degree of self-discharge just sitting idle in the camera or in the original packaging. Lithium-ion power packs of this type typically lose a small amount of their charge every day, even when the camera isn’t turned on. Li-ion cells lose their power through a chemical reaction that continues when the camera is switched off. So, it’s very likely that the battery purchased with your camera is at least partially pooped out, so you’ll want to revive it before going out for some serious shooting.

Several battery chargers are available for your camera. The compact LC-E17 is the charger that most owners end up using. Purchasing one of the optional charging devices offers more than some additional features: You gain a spare that can keep your camera running until you can replace your primary power rejuvenator. I like to have an extra charger in case my original charger breaks, or when I want to charge more than one battery at a time. Here’s a list of your power options:

■ LC-E17. The standard charger for the camera (and also compatible with earlier models that use the LC-E17 battery), this is the most convenient, because of its compact size and built-in wall plug prongs that connect directly into your power strip or wall socket and require no cord. (See Figure 1.1.) A flashing status light indicates that the battery is being charged.

■ LC-E17E. This is similar to the LC-E17, and also charges a single battery, but it requires a cord. That can be advantageous in certain situations. For example, if your power outlet is behind a desk or in some other semi-inaccessible location, the cord can be plugged in and routed so the charger itself sits on your desk or another more convenient spot. The cord is standard and works with many different chargers and devices (including the power supply for my laptop), so I purchased several of them and leave them plugged into the wall in various locations. I can connect my camera’s charger, my laptop computer’s charger, and several other electronic components to one of these cords without needing to crawl around behind the furniture. The cord draws no power when it’s not plugged into a charger. Unhook the charger from the cord when you’re not actively rejuvenating your batteries.

Figure 1.1 The LC-E17 standard charger.

■ USB Power Adapter PD-E1. Available separately for about $140, this adapter allows charging LPE6NH batteries without removing them from the camera over a USB Type-C connection. I have successfully used a much less expensive third-party USB-C charger. It conforms to the Power Delivery specification, which initially provides a profile that delivers 5V at 2A but can negotiate with a device to provide up to 20V at 5A if required. Ordinary USB chargers I’ve tried do not work and produce an Err message. (Don’t panic! Turn the camera off and remove the battery for a few minutes to cancel the error message.)

USB charging takes place only while the camera is turned off; the access lamp in the lower-right corner of the camera’s back panel will glow green during charging. (This is the same LED that flashes red when the camera is writing to the memory card.) When charging is finished, the lamp turns off.

■ DC coupler DR-E18/AC-E6N AC adapter. These two devices are used to operate your camera directly from AC power, with no battery required. The DC coupler DR-E18 (about $50) includes a dummy battery that fits into the R10’s battery compartment; the cord exits the camera through a flip-out door on the handgrip, and then plugs into the AC-E6N AC adapter ($100), which supplies the power.

Studio photographers need continuous power capability because they often snap off hundreds of pictures for hours on end and want constant, reliable power. The camera is probably plugged into a flash sync cord (or radio device), and the studio flash are plugged into power packs or AC power, so the extra tether to this adapter is no big deal in that environment. You also might want to use the AC adapter when viewing images on a TV connected to your camera, shooting video, or when shooting remote or time-lapse photos.

Charging the Battery

When the battery is inserted into the LC-E17 charger properly (it’s impossible to insert it incorrectly), a charge light begins flashing. It flashes on and off until the battery reaches a 50 percent charge, then blinks in two-flash cycles between 50 and 75 percent charged, and in a three-flash sequence until the battery is 90 percent charged, usually within about 90 minutes. In my experience, to be safe you should allow the charger to continue for about 60 minutes more, until the status lamp glows green steadily, to ensure a full charge. When the battery is charged, flip the lever on the bottom of the camera and slide in the battery (see Figure 1.2). To remove the battery from the camera, press the white retaining button.

Figure 1.2 Insert the battery in the camera; it only fits one way.

Mounting a Lens

As you’ll see, my recommended lens-mounting procedure emphasizes protecting your equipment from accidental damage and minimizing the intrusion of dust. If your camera has no lens attached, select the lens you want to use and loosen (but do not remove) the rear lens cap. I generally place the lens I am planning to mount vertically in a slot in my camera bag, where it’s protected from mishaps, but ready to pick up quickly. By loosening the rear lens cap, you’ll be able to lift it off the back of the lens at the last instant, so the rear element of the lens is covered until then.

After that, remove the body cap by rotating the cap toward the shutter release button. You should always mount the body cap when there is no lens on the camera because it helps keep dust out of the interior of the camera, where it can settle in the interior and potentially find its way onto the sensor. (While the sensor-cleaning mechanism works fine, the less dust it has to contend with, the better.) The body cap also protects the vulnerable sensor from damage caused by intruding objects (including your fingers if you’re not cautious).

Once the body cap has been removed, remove the rear lens cap from the lens, set it aside, and then mount the lens on the camera by matching the raised red alignment indicator on the lens barrel with the red line on the camera’s lens mount. Rotate the lens away from the shutter release until it seats securely. Set the focus mode switch on the lens to AF (autofocus) and the stabilizer switch to On. If the lens hood is bayoneted on the lens in the reversed position (which makes the lens/hood combination more compact for transport), twist it off and remount so it is facing outward. A lens hood protects the front of the lens from accidental bumps, stray fingerprints, and reduces flare caused by extraneous light arriving at the front element of the lens from outside the picture area.

Adjusting Diopter Correction

Those of us with less than perfect eyesight can often benefit from a little optical correction in the viewfinder. Your contact lenses or glasses may provide all the correction you need, but if you are a glasses wearer and want to work without your glasses, you can take advantage of the camera’s builtin diopter adjustment, which can be varied from –4 to +2 correction. With the camera powered up, adjust the dioptric adjustment slider located on the underside of the viewfinder, just above the LCD, while looking through the viewfinder until the indicators appear sharp. (See Figure 1.3.)

Figure 1.3 Viewfinder diopter correction from –4 to +2 can be dialed in.

Inserting a Memory Card

You can’t take photos without a memory card inserted in your camera. Open the memory card/battery compartment door on the bottom of the body. (You should only remove the memory card when the camera is switched off, but the camera will remind you if the door is opened while the camera is still writing photos to the memory card.) Insert the memory card into the slot with the label facing the back of the camera, as shown in Figure 1.4, oriented so the edge with the contacts goes into the slot first.

The slot is compatible with UHS-II, the fastest SD card protocol, at speeds up to 300Mbs transfer rates. You can use UHS-I cards with slower transfer speeds, too. Keep in mind that different vendors use different specifications for speed (both X factors and megabytes per second), and that write speed means how fast the device can transfer an image file to storage, while read speed (which may be emphasized because it is faster) represents how quickly the image can be transferred to your computer though a sufficiently fast connection (such as a USB 3.x card reader).

Figure 1.4 Insert the memory card in the slot with the label facing the back of the camera.

Close the door, and your preflight checklist is done! (I’m going to assume you remember to remove the lens cap when you’re ready to take a picture!) When you want to remove a memory card later, press down on the card to make it pop out.

Learning Basic Navigation

The remaining setup steps require working with some of the basic controls of your camera (see Figure 1.5). The R10 offers multiple ways to move through the various screens displayed in the view-finder and on the back-panel LCD. You’ll use these navigational tools to make menu selections, move focus points and zones around within the frame, and to change the area viewed during focusing and playback. This camera also has a versatile touch screen that can perform many of the same functions. For this intentionally concise Quick Start, I will stick to the basic controls suggested. I’ll show you how to add the touch screen to your repertoire in Chapter 2. For now, let’s concentrate on the physical navigational controls:

■ Main Dial. This wheel is located on top of the camera aft of the shutter release button, where it can be spun by the index finger. It is used within menus to move from one tab to the next, within the Quick Control screen to make setting adjustments, to move a focus point horizontally, or to adjust settings such as shutter speed.

Figure 1.5 Basic navigational controls.

■ Quick Control Dial. This dial is placed horizontally on the top of the camera with the On/Off switch, where it can be spun using the thumb. The Quick Control Dial is used to move vertically within a given menu tab, in the Quick Control screen to cycle among the 10 available settings, to move the focus point, or to adjust settings such as aperture.

■ Multi-controller. This joystick-like button can be shifted in eight directions with the tip of your finger. It can also be pressed inward to function as a Set/Return/Enter button when choosing some options. You’ll use it for things like setting white balance correction, moving the AF point, magnifying the frame within the image, or for making adjustments with the Quick Control screen.

■ INFO button. Changes the type of data shown on the display, cycling among available screens when pressed repeatedly.

■ Q/SET button. In shooting modes, accesses the Quick Control menu, which I’ll describe shortly. Within menus, it serves as an Enter button to confirm menu choices and adjustments.

■ Left/right/up/down directional buttons. This dial surrounding the Q/SET button can be pressed in four different directions as an alternate way to move the highlighting within menus, or relocate a focus point.

Formatting a Memory Card

You can practice using the basic controls I just introduced by formatting a memory card. There are three ways to create a blank memory card for your camera, and two of them are at least partially wrong. Here are your options, both correct and incorrect:

■ Transfer (move) files to your computer. When you transfer (rather than copy) all the image files to your computer from the memory card (either using a direct cable transfer or with a card reader, as described later in this chapter), the old image files are erased from the card, leaving the card blank. Theoretically. This method does not remove files that you’ve labeled as Protected (choosing the Protect images function in the Playback menu) nor does it identify and lock out parts of your memory card that have become corrupted or unusable since the last time you formatted the card. Therefore, I recommend always formatting the card, rather than simply moving the image files, each time you want to make a blank card. The only exception is when you want to leave the protected/unerased images on the card for a while longer, say, to share with friends, family, and colleagues.

■ (Don’t) Format in your computer. With the memory card inserted in a card reader or card slot in your computer, you can use Windows or Mac OS to reformat the memory card. Don’t! The operating system won’t necessarily arrange the structure of the card the way the camera likes to see it (in computer terms, an incorrect file system may be installed). The only way to ensure that the card has been properly formatted for your camera is to perform the format in the camera itself. The only exception to this rule is when you have a seriously corrupted memory card that your camera refuses to format. Sometimes it is possible to revive such a corrupted card by allowing the operating system to reformat it first, then trying again in the camera.

■ Set-up menu format. To use the recommended method to format a memory card, just follow these steps as labeled with step numbers in Figure 1.6:

1. Press the MENU button.

2. Press the INFO button until one of the five Set-up menus (represented by an amber wrench icon) are highlighted.

3. Rotate the Main Dial to select the Set-up 1 menu.

4. Spin the Quick Control Dial (QCD) located on top of the camera to move the highlighting down within the Set-up 1 menu to Format Card.

5. Press the SET button to confirm your choice.

6. Rotate the QCD to highlight OK, and press SET again to start the format. You can optionally press the INFO button first to perform an extra-thorough low-level clean-up format, which is a good idea if the card has been used many times.

Figure 1.6 Formatting a memory card.

Setting the Time and Date

The first time you use the camera, it may ask you to enter the time and date. (This information may have been set by someone checking out your camera on your behalf prior to sale.) Just follow these steps:

1. Press the MENU button, located in the upper-left corner of the back of the camera, and rotate the Main Dial to the Set-up 1 menu, located on the same page as the Format command you used earlier.

2. Rotate the QCD to move the highlighting down to the Date/Time/Zone entry.

3. Press the SET button to access the Date/Time/Zone setting screen, shown at left in Figure 1.7.

Figure 1.7 Choose the Date/Time/Zone entry from the Set-up 1 menu and set the parameters.

4. Rotate the QCD to select the value you want to change. When the gold box highlights the month, day, year, hour, minute, or second format you want to adjust, press the SET button to activate that value. A pair of up-/down-pointing triangles appears above the value.

5. Rotate the QCD to adjust the value up or down. Press the SET button to confirm the value you’ve entered.

6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for each of the other values you want to change. The date format can be switched from the default mm/dd/yy to yy/mm/dd or dd/mm/yy. You can activate/deactivate Daylight Saving Time and select a Time Zone (as seen in Figure 1.7, right).

7. When finished, rotate the QCD to select either OK (if you’re satisfied with your changes) or Cancel (if you’d like to return to the Set-up 1 menu screen without making any changes). Press SET to confirm your choice.

8. When finished setting the date and time, press the MENU button to exit.

REACH OUT AND TOUCH SOMETHING

As I noted, your camera has a touch-sensitive screen that is useful for navigating menus, selecting focus points, and other functions. In many cases, you can use the buttons and dials and the touch screen almost interchangeably, but for this introductory chapter I’m going to stick to using the physical controls instead of the touch controls. There are two reasons for that. First, it’s important you become comfortable using the buttons and dials, because for many functions they are faster, sometimes easier, and work reliably even when your fingers are encumbered (say, while you’re wearing gloves). In addition, this chapter is intended primarily for those new to the Canon mirrorless world. I’ll explain how to use the touch screen in Chapter 2.

Selecting a Shooting Mode

The following sections show you how to choose semi-automatic, automatic shooting, or exposure modes; select a metering mode (which tells the camera what portions of the frame to evaluate for exposure); and set the basic autofocus functions. If you understand how to do these things, you can skip ahead to Other Settings.

Turn on the camera, and, if you mounted a lens and inserted a fresh battery and memory card, you’re ready to begin. You’ll need to select a shooting mode, metering mode, and focus mode. You can choose a shooting method by rotating the Mode Dial, located on top of the camera, to the desired shooting mode. (See Figure 1.8.) The current mode is displayed in the lower-left corner of the view-finder or upper-left corner on the LCD screen. (You may have to press the INFO button located to the right of the LCD to activate the display.)

The camera has one fully automatic mode called Scene Intelligent Auto (A+ on the display), which makes virtually all the decisions for you (except when to press the shutter). This automatic setting is part of what Canon calls its Basic Zone options, which also includes Special Scene modes (labeled SCN on the dial), and Creative Filters (represented by overlapping filter icons on the Mode Dial).

Figure 1.8 Selecting shooting modes with the Mode Dial.

Your EOS R10 also has six Creative Zone settings, which are semi-automatic/manual modes and include Flexible-priority (Fv), Program (P), Shutter-priority (Tv), Aperture-priority (Av), Manual (M), and Bulb (B). These each allow you to provide input over the exposure and settings the camera uses. There are also two camera user settings (Custom shooting modes) that can be used to store specific groups of camera settings, which you can then recall quickly by choosing C1 or C2 as your shooting mode. A Movie position, represented by… wait for it… a movie camera icon, is located between the Creative Filters and the C2 slots.

If you’re very new to digital photography, you might want to set the camera to Scene Intelligent Auto (A+) or P (Program mode) and start snapping away. These modes will make all the appropriate settings for you for many shooting situations. Your choices are as follows:

■ A+ (Scene Intelligent Auto). In this mode, the camera makes all the exposure decisions for you.

■ Special Scene modes. When the dial is in this position, press SET and rotate the Main Dial to choose from scene modes including Portrait, Group Photo, Landscape, Panoramic Shot, Sports, Kids, Panning, Close-up, Food, Night Portrait, Handheld Night Scene, HDR Backlight Control, and Silent Shutter.

■ Creative Filters. With the dial in this position, press SET and rotate the Main Dial to choose Grainy B&W, Soft Focus, Fish-eye, Water Painting, Toy Camera, Miniature, or HDR Art (Standard, Vivid, Bold, and Embossed).

■ Fv (Flexible-priority). The Fv stands for flexible value. This is a recently introduced exposure mode that’s a combination of the four described next in this list. You can manually lock in a specific shutter speed or aperture or ISO sensitivity setting, or any combination of the three, and the other values will be set by the camera. You can also allow any or all of them to be selected automatically. You can then make your images darker or lighter using exposure compensation to override your settings.

As its name implies, this option gives you a great deal of flexibility in choosing which settings are chosen automatically, and which are specified by you manually. I recommend that beginners not use this shooting mode