David Busch's Canon EOS R5/R6 Guide to Digital Photography

By David D. Busch

David Busch's Canon EOS R5/R6 Guide to Digital Photography is your all-in-one comprehensive resource and reference for the exciting new Canon EOS R5 and R6 full-frame mirrorless cameras. Enthusiasts can choose between the super-high resolution of the R5’s 45-megapixel sensor, or the superior low-light performance and action-friendly high-capacity buffer of the 20-megapixel R6. Both cameras boast continuous shooting up to 20 frames per second, in-body image stabilization, and 1,053 Dual-Pixel II phase-detection AF points for lightning-fast, precise autofocus. Their high-resolution OLED electronic viewfinders provide a bright, clear view. Three available adapters make it easy to supplement your R-mount lenses with a broad selection of legacy Canon EF and EF-S optics. The EOS R5 and R6 have wireless connectivity to allow linking to a computer and iOS or Android smart device, high-definition 4K and Full HD movie-making capabilities, and a versatile swiveling touch-screen LCD. With this book in hand, you can quickly apply all these advanced features to your digital photography, while boosting your creativity to take great photographs with your Canon EOS R5 or R6.

Filled with detailed how-to steps and full-color illustrations, David Busch's Canon EOS R5/R6 Guide to Digital Photography covers all this upscale camera's features in depth, from taking your first photos through advanced details of setup, exposure, lens selection, lighting, and more, and relates each feature to specific photographic techniques and situations. Also included is the handy "roadmap" chapter, an easy-to-use visual guide to the cameras' features and controls. Learn when to use each option and, more importantly, when not to use them, by following the author’s recommended settings for every menu entry. With best-selling photographer and mentor David Busch as your guide, you'll quickly have full creative mastery of your camera’s capabilities, whether you're shooting on the job, as an advanced enthusiast, or are just out for fun. Start building your knowledge and confidence, while bringing your vision to light with the Canon EOS R5/R6 today.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Rocky Nook
• Release date: May 27, 2021
• ISBN: 9781681987095

David D. Busch

With more than two million books in print, David D. Busch is the world’s #1 best-selling camera guide author, with more than 100 guidebooks for Nikon, Canon, Sony, Olympus, Pentax, and Panasonic cameras, and many popular books devoted to digital photography and imaging techniques. His best-sellers include Digital SLR Cameras and Photography for Dummies, which has sold more than 300,000 copies in five editions, and Mastering Digital SLR Photography, now in its Fourth Edition. The graduate of Kent State University is a former newspaper reporter/photographer, and operated his own commercial photo studio, shooting sports, weddings, portraits, fashion, architecture, product photography, and travel images. For 22 years he was a principal in CCS/PR, Inc., one of the largest public relations/marketing firms based in San Diego, working on press conferences, press kits, media tours, and sponsored photo trade magazine articles for Eastman Kodak Company and other imaging companies. His 2500 articles and accompanying photos have appeared inside and on the covers of hundreds of magazines, including Popular Photography, Rangefinder, and Professional Photographer. For the last decade, Busch has devoted much of his time to sharing his photographic expertise, both in publications, and in seminar/workshops he hosts at the Cleveland Photographic Society School of Photography. He has been a call-in guest for 21 different radio shows nationally and in major markets, including WTOP-AM (Washington), KYW-AM (Philadelphia), USA Network (Daybreak USA), WPHM-AM (Detroit), KMJE-FM (Sacramento), CJAD-AM (Montreal), WBIX-AM (Boston), ABC Radio Network (Jonathan & Mary Show). He’s also been a call-in guest for one Canadian television show, and appeared live on Breakfast Television in Toronto, the Today Show of the Great White North. With a total of more than 200 books to his credit, Busch has had as many as five books appear simultaneously in the Amazon.com Top 25 Digital Photography Books, and when Michael Carr of About.com named the top five digital photography books for beginners, the initial #1 and #2 choices were Busch’s Digital Photography All-in-One Desk Reference for Dummies and Mastering Digital Photography. His work has been translated into Arabic, Spanish, Chinese, Japanese, Portuguese, Bulgarian, German, Italian, French, and other languages. Busch lives in Ravenna, Ohio, and you can find him online at www.dslrguides.com.

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Preface

The new dynamic duo of the Canon EOS R5 and EOS R6 are follow-ups to the impressive first-generation EOS R and RP models that demonstrated just how serious the company was in developing compact, fully featured mirrorless cameras that compared favorably with the best of its impressive digital SLR models. These cameras feature the most-requested upgrades from the originals—including two memory card slots. The R5 has one memory card slot compatible with speedy CFexpress media, with a second for UHS-II SD cards. The R6 sports a pair of UHS-II SD card slots. The EOS R5 and EOS R6 also have extended battery life, the ability to power the camera over USB while charging the battery, and improved eye/face tracking of humans or animals.

These newest cameras introduce impressive five-axis image stabilization, with up to 8 stops of anti-shake properties with certain lenses. The cameras look and handle like a Canon, with controls and menus that veteran Canon owners will find comfortably familiar and new users will grow to love as they explore its exciting enhancements. Every photo enthusiast will easily master the camera’s capabilities, even though the sheer number of features and options can be daunting. The only thing standing between you and pixel proficiency is the fat but confusing book included in the box as a manual.

Everything you need to know is in there, somewhere, but you don’t know where to start, nor how to find the information you really need to master your camera. In addition, the camera manual doesn’t offer much guidance on the principles that will help you master digital photography. Nor does it really tell you much about how mirrorless shooting might differ from the kinds of digital photography you may already be used to. If you’re like most enthusiasts, you’re probably not interested in spending hours or days studying a comprehensive book on digital photography that doesn’t necessarily apply directly to the enhanced features of your camera.

What you really need is a guide that explains the purpose and function of the camera’s basic controls, available lens options, and most essential accessories from the perspective of mirrorless cameras. It should tell you how you should use them, and why. Ideally, there should be information about the exciting features at your disposal, how to optimize image quality, when to use exposure modes like Aperture- or Shutter-priority, and the use of special autofocus modes. In many cases, you’d prefer to read about those topics only after you’ve had the chance to go out and take a few hundred great pictures with your new camera. Why isn’t there a book that summarizes the most important information in its first two or three chapters, with lots of illustrations showing what your results will look like when you use this setting or that? This is that book.

If you can’t decide on what basic settings to use with your camera because you can’t figure out how changing ISO or white balance or focus defaults will affect your pictures, you need this guide. I won’t talk down to you, either; this book isn’t padded with dozens of pages of checklists telling you how to take a travel picture, a sports photo, or how to take a snapshot of your kids in overly simplistic terms. There are no special sections devoted to real-world recipes here. All of us do 100 percent of our shooting in the real world! So, I give you all the information you need to cook up great photos on your own!

Introduction

Let’s address the elephant in the room. The first Canon EOS R-series cameras and RF lenses were introduced between September 2018 and February 2019. They were given a hearty welcome by Canon owners who were looking for compact state-of-the-art mirrorless cameras worthy of professionals, enthusiasts, and ambitious beginners. Even owners of other brands took a hard look at what Canon was bringing to the table. Virtually every feature any photographer would want was included in the new R-series models—except two: dual memory card slots and in-body image stabilization. Apparently, for many, not having two card slots (with the spare used for backup or overflow) or built-in IS were deal breakers.

Those of us, like me, who had long worked as photojournalists or shot weddings using film cameras that held only a single roll of film might not have been terribly concerned about the lack of a second memory card slot, but many others were quite upset. Fortunately, that particular elephant has been addressed. The R5 has a CFexpress (CFe) slot that most will use for primary storage, and a second UHS-II SD card for backup or overflow. It would have been nice to have both of the R5’s slots use the same form factor, but Canon was able to incorporate the additional SD slot without significantly increasing the size of the camera, which would have been the case if they’d attempted to accommodate two CFe memory cards. The R6 does have identical card slots, both accepting UHS-II SD media.

Canon also fixed the other shortcoming: lack of in-body image stabilization (IBIS). Although Canon makes great lenses in both EF/EF-S and RF mounts with their own image stabilization, the in-body variety has some extra advantages, including the ability to add stabilization to any lens, even those that don’t have their own IS capabilities. Further, the R5’s and R6’s IBIS can work in tandem with certain lenses to provide up to 8 stops of stabilization.

So, with the EOS R5 and EOS R6, the R-system has blossomed into a full-fledged alternative to traditional digital SLRs (chiefly those offered by Canon itself) and mirrorless models from a variety of vendors. As I write this, Canon offers 20 different lenses and two tele-converters in your camera’s native RF-mount, with eight more optics scheduled on the company’s lens map projections. If you add in the dozens of existing original EF-/EF-S-mount lenses that can be used on the camera with optional adapters, and full line of electronic flash units and accessories compatible with both EF-mount and RF-mount cameras, you’ll see the company has built a formidable (and comprehensive) system quite quickly.

Of course, despite what you might read elsewhere, the Canon R-series cameras are not the first mirrorless interchangeable-lens cameras Canon has offered. That distinction belongs to the company’s Canon EOS M product line, a series of consumer-oriented cameras that were truly small in size, but limited in expandability. Those cameras, targeted at amateur snapshooters, allowed Canon to develop considerable expertise in mirrorless technology. Your camera builds on what the company learned in carefully designing a new platform that fully meets the needs of a much different group: dedicated photo enthusiasts, semi-professionals, and, even, professional photographers.

Still, you may be asking yourself—how do I use this thing? Canon’s manual is mind-numbingly dense, and online tutorials from ad-supported YouTube click-bait sites can’t cover all these features in depth. Who wants to learn how to use a camera by sitting in front of a television or computer screen? Do you want to watch a movie or click on HTML links, or do you want to go out and take photos with your camera?

The large Advanced Manuals Canon offers (available in PDF format) are thick and filled with information, but there’s really very little about why you should use particular settings or features. Its organization makes it difficult to find what you need. Multiple cross-references send you searching back and forth between two or three sections of the book to find what you want to know. The basic manual is also hobbled by black-and-white line drawings and tiny monochrome pictures that aren’t very good examples of what you can do.

I’ve tried to make David Busch’s Canon EOS R5/R6 Guide to Digital Photography different from your other camera learn-up options. The roadmap sections use larger, color pictures to show you where all the buttons and dials are, and the explanations of what they do are longer and more comprehensive. I’ve tried to avoid overly general advice, including the two-page checklists on how to take a sports picture or a portrait picture or a travel picture. You won’t find half the content of this book taken up by generic chapters that tell you how to shoot landscapes, portraits, or product photographs. Instead, you’ll find tips and techniques for using all the features of your Canon camera to take any kind of picture you want. If you want to know where you should stand to take a picture of a quarterback dropping back to unleash a pass, there are plenty of books that will tell you that. This one concentrates on teaching you how to select the best autofocus mode, shutter speed, f/stop, or flash capability to take, say, a great sports picture under any conditions.

Some readers who visit my blog have told me that the EOS R5 and EOS R6 cameras are such advanced models that few people really need the kind of basics that so many camera guides concentrate on. Leave out all the basic photography information! On the other hand, I’ve had many pleas from those who are trying to master digital photography as they learn to use their camera, and they’ve asked me to help them climb the steep learning curve.

Rather than write a book for just one of those two audiences, I’ve tried to meet the needs of both. You veterans will find plenty of information on getting the most from the camera’s features and may even learn something from an old hand’s photo secrets. I’ll bet there was a time when you needed a helping hand with some confusing photographic topic.

Family Resemblance

If you’ve owned previous models in the Canon digital camera line, and copies of my books for those cameras, you’re bound to notice a certain family resemblance. Canon has been very crafty in introducing upgraded cameras that share the best features of the models they replace, while adding new capabilities and options. You benefit in two ways. If you used a previous Canon camera prior to switching to this latest camera model, you’ll find that the parts that haven’t changed have a certain familiarity for you, making it easy to make the transition to the newest model. There are lots of features and menu choices of the camera that are exactly the same as those in the most recent models. This family resemblance will help level the learning curve for you.

Similarly, when writing books for each new model, I try to retain the easy-to-understand explanations that worked for previous books dedicated to earlier camera models, and concentrate on expanded descriptions of things readers have told me they want to know more about, a solid helping of fresh sample photos, and lots of details about the latest and greatest new features. Rest assured, this book was written expressly for you, and tailored especially for the camera.

Who Am I?

First, and foremost, I’m a photojournalist who made my living in the field until I began devoting most of my time to writing books. Although I love writing, I’m happiest when I’m out taking pictures, which is why I spend four to six weeks in Florida each winter as a base of operations for photographing the wildlife, wild natural settings, and wild people in the Sunshine State. In recent years, I’ve spent a lot of time overseas, too, photographing people and monuments. You’ll find photos of some of these visual treasures within the pages of this book. You may have seen my photography articles in the late, lamented Popular Photography magazine. I’ve also written about 2,000 articles for magazines like Rangefinder, Professional Photographer, and dozens of other photographic publications.

Like all my digital photography books, this one was written by a Canon devotee with an incurable photography bug who has used Canon cameras professionally for longer than I care to admit. Over the years, I’ve worked as a sports photographer for an Ohio newspaper and for an upstate New York college. I’ve operated my own commercial studio and photo lab, cranking out product shots on demand and then printing a few hundred glossy 8 × 10s on a tight deadline for a press kit. I’ve served as a photo-posing instructor for a modeling agency. People have actually paid me to shoot their weddings and immortalize them with portraits. I even prepared press kits and articles on photography as a PR consultant for a large Rochester, NY company, which older readers may recall as an industry giant. My trials and travails with imaging and computer technology have made their way into print in book form an alarming number of times, including a few dozen on scanners and photography.

Like you, I love photography for its own merits, and I view technology as just another tool to help me get the images I see in my mind’s eye. But, also like you, I had to master this technology before I could apply it to my work. This book is the result of what I’ve learned, and I hope it will help you master your Canon camera, too.

In closing, I’d like to ask a special favor: let me know what you think of this book. If you have any recommendations about how I can make it better, visit my website at www.canonguides.com, click on the E-Mail Me tab, and send your comments, suggestions on topics that should be explained in more detail, or, especially, any typos. (The latter will be compiled on the Errata page you’ll also find on my website.) You can also find me on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/DavidBuschGuides. I really value your ideas and appreciate it when you take the time to tell me what you think! Most of the organization and some of the content of the book you hold in your hands came from suggestions I received from readers like yourself. If you found this book especially useful, tell others about it. Visit http://www.amazon.com/dp/1681987074 and leave a positive review. Your feedback is what spurs me to make each one of these books better than the last. Thanks!

If you’re like me, the first thing you probably did when you first extracted your Canon EOS R5 or R6 camera from the box was attach one of the available RF-mount lenses, power the beast up, and begin taking photos through a tentative trial-and-error process. Who has time to even scan a manual when you’re holding in your hands some of the most exciting technology Canon has ever offered? If you’re a veteran Canon shooter, you probably found many of the controls and menus very similar to what you’re used to, even though the camera itself is much more compact and lighter in weight than your previous Canon and uses lenses in the new RF lens mount.

But now that you’ve taken a few hundred (or thousand) photos with your new camera, you’re ready to learn more. You’ve noted some intriguing features and adjustments that you need to master. Of course, on the other hand, you may be new to the Canon world, or this may be your first advanced digital camera, and you need some guidance in learning to use all the creative options it has to offer. In either case, despite your surging creative juices, I recommend a more considered approach to learning how to operate the camera. This chapter and the next are designed to get your camera fired up and ready for shooting as quickly as possible. And while they boast both Auto and sophisticated Programmed Auto modes, these cameras are not point-and-shoot models; to get the most out of your new camera, you’ll want to explore its capabilities fully.

So, to help you begin shooting as quickly as possible, I’m going to first provide a basic pre-flight checklist that you need to complete before you really spread your wings and take off. You won’t find a lot of detail in these initial two chapters. Indeed, I’m going to tell you just what you absolutely must understand, accompanied by some interesting tidbits that will help you become acclimated to your camera. I’ll go into more depth and even repeat a little of what I explain here in the chapters that follow, so you don’t have to memorize everything you see. Just relax, follow a few easy steps, and then go out and begin taking your best shots—ever.

I hope that even long-time Canon owners won’t be tempted to skip this chapter or the next one. No matter how extensive your experience level is with dSLRs, your new mirrorless camera has a lot of differences from what you may be used to. Yet, I realize you don’t want to wade through a manual to find out what you must know to take those first few tentative snaps. I’m going to help you hit the ground running with this chapter, which will help you set up your camera and begin shooting in minutes. Because some of you may already have experience with previous Canon cameras, each of the major sections in this chapter will begin with a brief description of what is covered in that section, so you can easily jump ahead to the next if you are in a hurry to get started.

TIP In this book you’ll find short tips labeled My recommendation or My preference , each intended to help you sort through the available options for a feature, control, or menu entry. I’ll provide my preference, suitable for most people in most situations. I don’t provide these recommendations for every single feature, and you should consider your own needs before adopting any of them.

First Things First

This section helps get you oriented with all the things that come in the box with your Canon EOS R5 or R6, including what they do. I’ll also describe some optional equipment you might want to have. If you want to get started immediately, skim through this section and jump ahead to Initial Setup later in this chapter.

The first thing to do is carefully unpack the camera and double-check the contents. At a minimum, the box should have the following:

Canon EOS R5 or R6 digital camera. It almost goes without saying that you should check out the camera immediately, making sure the color LCD screen on the back isn’t scratched or cracked, the memory card and battery doors open properly, and, when a charged battery is inserted and lens mounted, the camera powers up and reports for duty. Out-of-the-box defects like these are rare, but they can happen. It’s probably more common that your dealer played with the camera or, perhaps, it was a customer return. That’s why it’s best to buy your camera from a retailer you trust to supply a factory-fresh camera.

Lens (optional). At their introduction, these cameras were available as a body only, and in a variety of kit configurations, such as body plus either the 24-105mm f/4L lens or more affordable 24-105mm f/4.7-7.1 zoom. Dealers were also willing to package the camera body with other lenses, such as the RF 35mm f/1.8 IS Macro STM, RF 28-70mm f/2.8L IS USM, and RF 50mm f/1.2L USM. However, unless you were willing to pay out big bucks or wanted to go all in with Canon’s new mirrorless system, you probably opted for one of the two all-purpose 24-105mm optics. Some photographers with a heavy investment in Canon dSLR gear might have eschewed any RF-mount option and got one of the three available mount adapters to use with their existing lenses.

My recommendation: For an enthusiast camera at this level, you can’t go wrong with the superb 24-105mm f/4L version, which compares favorably with its Canon EF-mount 24-105mm counterpart. I’ll explain your lens options in more detail in Chapter 7.

Battery Pack LP-E6NH. You’ll need to charge this 7.2V, 1865mAh (milliampere hour) battery before using it. I’ll offer instructions later in this section. It should be furnished with a protective cover, which should always be mounted on the battery when it is not inside the camera, to avoid shorting out the contacts.

Battery Charger LC-E6/LC-E6E. One of these chargers, described in the Initial Setup section that follows this one, is required to vitalize the LP-E6NH battery.

Neck strap. Canon provides you with a steal me neck strap emblazoned with your camera model. It’s not very adjustable, and, while useful for showing off to your friends exactly which nifty new camera you bought, it’s probably not your best option, and also can serve to alert observant unsavory types that you’re sporting a higher-end model that’s worthy of their attention.

My recommendation: I never attach the Canon strap to my cameras. I use the UPstrap shown in Figure 1.1, with a patented non-slip pad that keeps your camera on your shoulder, and not crashing to the ground. I strongly prefer the UPstrap over holsters, slings, chest straps, or any support that dangles my camera upside down from the tripod socket and allows it to swing around too freely when I’m on the run. Give me a strap I can hang over either shoulder, or sling around my neck, and I am happy. Inventor-photographer Al Stegmeyer (www.journeycamera.com) can help you choose the right strap for you.

Figure 1.1 Both cameras are light enough to carry comfortably with a neck strap like the UPstrap shown.

Lens accessories (if you purchased a kit). If you purchased your camera with a lens, you’ll also receive accessories, including the LF-N1 rear lens cap. The lens will also be furnished with a front lens cap of appropriate diameter and may include a case. The RF 24-105 f/4 L IS USM lens comes with a Canon E-77 II and LP1319 lens case, for example.

Camera cover. The body cap keeps dust from infiltrating your camera when a lens is not mounted. Always carry a body cap (and rear lens cap). When not in use, the body cap/rear lens cap nest together for compact storage.

Interface Cable IFC-100U (R5 only). You can use this 1 meter/3.2-foot USB 3.0 Type-C cable to transfer photos from the camera to your computer (not recommended), to upload and download settings between the camera and your computer (highly recommended), and to operate your camera remotely using the EOS Utility software you can download from the Support page of your country’s Canon website.

My recommendation: I don’t recommend using the cable to transfer images. Direct transfer uses a lot of battery power and is potentially slower. This cable has Type-C connectors at either end—which means you’ll need a Type-C-to-Type-A adapter to link to a non-Type-C computer or other device. Some generic Type-C-to-Type-A cables I’ve tried do not work properly, particularly with the EOS Utility (an application that allows your computer to communicate with the camera for downloading and displaying images, remote shooting, and control of camera settings). You’ll need to test yours if you’re trying to save a few dollars.

Cable protector (R5 only). This fastens to the side of the R5 and holds the USB and (optional) HDMI cables snugly in place.

My recommendation: While Canon warns that the camera terminals can be damaged if you do not use the protector, that’s unlikely to occur in normal use. For most applications, say, to transfer files from the camera to your computer over USB, or to temporarily route the camera’s output to a TV/monitor, using the HDMI interface, you will not need this clip. The unadorned cables fit quite snugly. (That’s why the clip is unavailable for the R6.)

However, R5 owners will find the protector invaluable in other applications. For example, if you want to shoot tethered over USB while connected to a laptop running the EOS Utility or another program, or plan to direct HDMI output to a video recorder, high-definition monitor, or other device, you’ll want to use the clips to make sure your EOS R5 remains connected.

User’s manuals. Canon still provides a basic printed manual. It’s small, but deceptively thick, as only about 200 pages are in English, with the rest of the content repeating the same information in Spanish and French. If you need a more comprehensive manual to supplement this book, you’ll have to download a PDF version, available from your country’s Canon website.

Warranty and registration card. Don’t lose these! You can register your camera by mail, although you don’t really need to in order to keep your warranty in force, but you may need the information in this paperwork (plus the purchase receipt/invoice from your retailer) should you require Canon service support.

There are a few things Canon classifies as optional accessories, even though you (and I) might consider some of them essential. Here’s a list of what you don’t get in the box, but you might want to think about as an impending purchase. I’ll list them roughly in the order of importance:

Memory card. You’ll need at least one memory card, as one is not furnished with the camera.

My recommendation: You really need a memory card that’s a minimum of 32GB in size, and a 64GB or larger card would be much better.

Extra LP-E6NH/LP-E6 battery. Your camera’s sensor and either electronic viewfinder or rear panel LCD screen are active for long periods of time as you use your camera, so battery life may be less than what you’re used to. Canon estimates you should get approximately 470 or 380 shots (for the R5 and R6, respectively) from a single battery when using the electronic viewfinder, and up to 490/380 (R5/R6) shots if you’re working exclusively with the back-panel LCD monitor. It’s easy to exceed that figure in a few hours of shooting sports at 12 fps (20 fps with the electronic shutter). Batteries can unexpectedly fail, too, or simply lose their charge from sitting around unused for a week or two.

My recommendation: Buy an extra battery (I own four, in total), keep it charged, and free your mind from worry. The latest LP-E6NH version is best (it can be charged inside the camera with the USB Power Adapter PD-E1, described in the next section), but if you’re upgrading from a previous model that uses the original LP-E6 batteries and have a spare or two, you can use them as well.

Add-on Speedlite. Like many advanced enthusiast cameras, these cameras do not include a built-in electronic flash, so you’ll need an external Speedlite such as the Canon Speedlite 600EX II-RT or the flagship EL-1 (which costs $1,100!). If you’re looking to cut down on the weight you carry around, consider the Canon Speedlite EL-100, which has more modest output best used for fill.

My recommendation: Your add-on flash can function as the main illumination for your photo, or it can be softened and used to fill in shadows. If you do much flash photography at all, consider a Speedlite as an important accessory. For the most flexibility when lighting your subject, you’ll need two flash units: one on the camera to be used as a sender, and one off-camera flash triggered wirelessly as a receiver. (The three flash units mentioned above can function in either role. Canon also offers the ST-E2 and ST-E3-RT transmitter/triggers which can mount on the accessory shoe and serve as masters.)

Mount adapters. If you already own a collection of Canon EF and EF-S lenses, Canon offers three adapters that will let you use those lenses on any R-series camera. One is a mount adapter only, a second adds a customizable control ring to your EF/EF-S lenses like those found on the RF optics themselves, while a third includes a drop-in filter carrier that lets you use a single size filter behind the rear element of the EF/EF-S lens. That includes polarizers and variable neutral-density filters, and the capability works with lenses that ordinarily can’t use screw-in filters at all, such as the Canon EF 11-24mm f/4L USM or Canon Tilt/Shift TS-E 17mm f/4L lenses. I’ll describe the three mount adapters in more detail in Chapter 7, which deals with your full range of lens options for the EOS R5 and R6.

AC Adapter Kit AC-E6N. This device is used with a DC coupler, the DR-E6, that replaces the LP-E6NH battery and powers the camera from AC current.

My recommendation: There are several typical situations where this capability can come in handy: when you’re cleaning the sensor manually and want to totally eliminate the possibility that a lack of juice will cause the fragile shutter to spring to life during the process; when indoors shooting tabletop photos, portraits, class pictures, and so forth for hours on end; when using your camera for remote shooting as well as time-lapse photography; for extensive review of images on your television; or for file transfer to your computer. These all use prodigious amounts of power, which can be provided by this AC adapter.

Remote controls. Although the self-timer can be used to trigger your tripod-mounted camera without any vibration, it’s more convenient to use a wired or wireless remote control to trip the shutter.

My recommendation: The Canon RC-6 wireless remote control, which uses infrared signals to trigger the shutter and start/stop video, is your most basic remote option. The Canon BR-E1 wireless remote control uses Bluetooth up to a distance of about 16 feet (and doesn’t require a line of sight to the camera) and is compatible with the PZ-E1 Power Zoom Adapter for remotely adjusting zoom position and movement of the EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM lens. It also has an AF button for autofocus during video shooting.

Or, you can opt for wired remotes like the Canon RS-80N remote switch and TC-80N3 timer remote controller (which offers more sophisticated sequences and also functions as an interval timer). Both have a Canon N3 type connection which works fine with the EOS R5. However, the R6 requires the Canon RA-E3 remote controller N3-to-E3 adapter to connect to the R6.

HDMI cable. You’ll need an optional HDMI Type A (standard) to Type D (micro) cable if you want to connect your camera directly to an HDTV for viewing your images.

My recommendation: I use standard HDMI micro (Type D) cables in 6- and 9-foot lengths. They work fine, and I can buy several for the price of one Canon-branded cable. Canon recommends against using cables longer than that.

Initial Setup

Many owners can skip this section, which describes basic setup steps. I’m including it at the request of ambitious photo buffs who have upgraded to this mirrorless camera after switching from a Canon dSLR, another camera brand, or an entry-level model from any manufacturer.

The initial setup of your camera is fast and easy. Basically, you just need to charge the battery, attach a lens, adjust the viewfinder for your vision, insert and format at least one memory card, and make a few settings. Each of these steps is easy, and if you’ve used a previous EOS model, you already know exactly what to do. I’m going to provide a little extra detail for those of you who are new to the Canon or digital SLR worlds.

Power Options

Your Canon EOS R5 or R6 is a sophisticated hunk of machinery and electronics, but it needs a charged battery to function, so rejuvenating the LP-E6NH lithium-ion battery pack furnished with your camera should be your first step. A fully charged power source should be good for approximately 400 shots, more or less, depending on whether you’re using the LCD or viewfinder to compose your shots. This rough estimate is based on standard tests defined by the Camera & Imaging Products Association (CIPA) document DC-002.

All rechargeable batteries undergo some degree of self-discharge just sitting idle in the camera or in the original packaging. Lithium-ion power packs of this type typically lose a small amount of their charge every day, even when the camera isn’t turned on. The small amount of juice used to provide the skeleton outline on the top-panel monochrome LCD of the R5 when the camera is turned off isn’t the culprit; Li-ion cells lose their power through a chemical reaction that continues when the camera is switched off. So, it’s very likely that the battery purchased with your camera is at least partially pooped out, so you’ll want to revive it before going out for some serious shooting.

Several battery chargers are available for your camera. The compact LC-E6 is the charger that most owners end up using. Purchasing one of the optional charging devices offers more than some additional features: You gain a spare that can keep your camera running until you can replace your primary power rejuvenator. I like to have an extra charger in case my original charger breaks, or when I want to charge more than one battery at a time. (That’s often the case if you’re using the BG-R10 grip.) Here’s a list of your power options:

LC-E6. The standard charger for the camera (and also compatible with earlier models that use the LC-E6 or LC-E6N batteries), this is the most convenient, because of its compact size and built-in wall plug prongs that connect directly into your power strip or wall socket and require no cord. (See Figure 1.2, left.)

Figure 1.2 A flashing status light indicates that the battery is being charged (left). Insert the battery in the camera; it only fits one way (right).

LC-E6E. This is similar to the LC-E6, and also charges a single battery, but it requires a cord. That can be advantageous in certain situations. For example, if your power outlet is behind a desk or in some other semi-inaccessible location, the cord can be plugged in and routed so the charger itself sits on your desk or another more convenient spot. The cord is standard and works with many different chargers and devices (including the power supply for my laptop), so I purchased several of them and leave them plugged into the wall in various locations. I can connect my camera’s charger, my laptop computer’s charger, and several other electronic components to one of these cords without needing to crawl around behind the furniture. The cord draws no power when it’s not plugged into a charger. Unhook the charger from the cord when you’re not actively rejuvenating your batteries.

Car Battery Cable CBC-E6. It includes the Car Battery Cable CB-570 (plug into your vehicle’s lighter or accessory socket). The vehicle battery option allows you to keep shooting when in remote locations that lack AC power.

Battery Grip BG-R10. This $375 accessory holds one or two LC-E6NH batteries. You can potentially double your shooting capacity, while adding an additional shutter release, Main Dial, Quick Control Dial, M-Fn button, AF-ON, AE lock/FE lock, and AF point selection controls for vertically oriented shooting. An included power adapter allows charging LP-E6NH batteries (but not LP-E6 packs) while in the camera.

My recommendation: Even though it is expensive, hold out for the BG-R10. Many people love third-party grips from Meike, Neewer, Vivitar, and others, at a lower cost. I have purchased these grips in the past and found them acceptable for occasional use. I expect a similar unit will be available for both the R5 and R6 by the time this book is published. However, most people like to clamp their add-on grips onto the camera and remove them only rarely. If you intend to make a battery grip part of your permanent setup, the Canon model will be better made, more rugged, and guaranteed to work seamlessly with your camera.

USB Power Adapter PD-E1. Available separately for about $200, this adapter allows charging LP-E6NH batteries without removing them from the camera or grip over a USB Type-C connection. Theoretically, you might be able to charge the batteries from a less expensive adapter or power brick if it is capable of providing higher than 5V and has USB-C output. (USB-C uses a Power Delivery specification that initially provides a profile that delivers 5V at 2A but can negotiate with a device to provide up to 20V at 5A.) Ordinary USB chargers I’ve tried do not work and produce an Err message. (Don’t panic! Turn the camera off and remove the battery for a few minutes to cancel the error message.)

The access lamp in the lower-right corner of the camera’s back panel will glow green during charging. (This is the same LED that flashes red when the camera is writing to the memory card.) When charging is finished, the lamp turns off.

AC Adapter Kit ACK-E6. This device allows you to operate your camera directly from AC power, with no battery required. Studio photographers need this capability because they often snap off hundreds of pictures for hours on end and want constant, reliable power. The camera is probably plugged into a flash sync cord (or radio device), and the studio flash are plugged into power packs or AC power, so the extra tether to this adapter is no big deal in that environment. You also might want to use the AC adapter when viewing images on a TV connected to your camera, shooting video, or when shooting remote or time-lapse photos.

Charging the Battery

When the battery is inserted into the LC-E6 charger properly (it’s impossible to insert it incorrectly), a Charge light begins flashing. It flashes on and off until the battery reaches a 50 percent charge, then blinks in two-flash cycles between 50 and 75 percent charged, and in a three-flash sequence until the battery is 90 percent charged, usually within about 90 minutes. In my experience, to be safe you should allow the charger to continue for about 60 minutes more, until the status lamp glows green steadily, to ensure a full charge. When the battery is charged, flip the lever on the bottom of the camera and slide in the battery (see Figure 1.2, right). To remove the battery from the camera, press the white retaining button.

Mounting a Lens

As you’ll see, my recommended lens-mounting procedure emphasizes protecting your equipment from accidental damage and minimizing the intrusion of dust. If your camera has no lens attached, select the lens you want to use and loosen (but do not remove) the rear lens cap. I generally place the lens I am planning to mount vertically in a slot in my camera bag, where it’s protected from mishaps, but ready to pick up quickly. By loosening the rear lens cap, you’ll be able to lift it off the back of the lens at the last instant, so the rear element of the lens is covered until then.

After that, remove the body cap by rotating the cap toward the shutter release button. You should always mount the body cap when there is no lens on the camera because it helps keep dust out of the interior of the camera, where it can settle in the interior and potentially find its way onto the sensor. (While the sensor-cleaning mechanism works fine, the less dust it has to contend with, the better.) The body cap also protects the vulnerable sensor from damage caused by intruding objects (including your fingers if you’re not cautious).

Once the body cap has been removed, remove the rear lens cap from the lens, set it aside, and then mount the lens on the camera by matching the raised red alignment indicator on the lens barrel with the red line on the camera’s lens mount. Rotate the lens away from the shutter release until it seats securely. Set the focus mode switch on the lens to AF (autofocus) and the stabilizer switch to On. If the lens hood is bayoneted on the lens in the reversed position (which makes the lens/hood combination more compact for transport), twist it off and remount so it is facing outward. A lens hood protects the front of the lens from accidental bumps, stray fingerprints, and reduces flare caused by extraneous light arriving at the front element of the lens from outside the picture area.

Adjusting Diopter Correction

Those of us with less than perfect eyesight can often benefit from a little optical correction in the viewfinder. Your contact lenses or glasses may provide all the correction you need, but if you are a glasses wearer and want to work without your glasses, you can take advantage of the camera’s built-in diopter adjustment, which can be varied from –4 to +2 correction. With the camera powered up, rotate the diopter adjustment control located to the immediate right of the viewfinder (see Figure 1.3) while looking through the viewfinder until the indicators appear sharp.

Figure 1.3 Viewfinder diopter correction from –4 to +2 can be dialed in.

Inserting a Memory Card

You can’t take photos without at least one memory card inserted in your camera, so your final step will be to insert one or two. Slide the door on the right side of the body toward the back of the camera to release the cover, and then open it. (You should only remove the memory card when the camera is switched off, but the camera will remind you if the door is opened while the camera is still writing photos to the memory card.)

Insert the memory card into either of the two slots with the label facing the back of the camera, as shown in Figure 1.4, oriented so the edge with the contacts goes into the slot first. Slot 1 is the slot closest to the back of the camera; Slot 2 is located behind it. With the R5, Slot 1 is used with CFexpress cards and Slot 2 is for SD-type cards. Although XQD cards have the same form factor as CFexpress Type-B media and will fit in Slot 1, your R5 cannot recognize or use them. The R6 contains two identical SD slots.

If you load only one card, the camera will automatically default to the slot that contains the memory card and operate just fine. I’ll show you how to specify the default card and how the camera uses them when two memory cards are inserted in Chapter 14. Close the door, and your preflight checklist is done! (I’m going to assume you remember to remove the lens cap when you’re ready to take a picture!) When you want to remove a memory card later, press down on the card to make it pop out.

Figure 1.4 Insert the memory card in the slot with the label facing the back of the camera. The R5 slots are shown at top, and R6 memory card slots at bottom.

It’s worthwhile to consider one of the early controversies (if you can call it that) about the original EOS R and EOS RP models: each had only a single card slot. Apparently, all professional or semi-professional cameras (generally automatically applied to any model with an MSRP of $2,000 or more) must have the ability to use two card slots, for overflow or backup purposes. Those of us who made our living for a few decades using cameras that held just a single roll of film (which required after-the-fact processing to confirm that you got anything at all) are less upset. Of course, in those days it was common to wield two or more cameras per shoot, which provided for overflow (back when we depended on 36-exposure rolls of film) and a rudimentary form of interleaved backup.

The R5 and R6 solve that problem by offering two memory card slots. Dual memory cards in overflow mode come in especially handy for spot news and sports, as a photojournalist will frequently swap out a card that’s 80 percent (or slightly more) full for a fresh one to avoid missing something important during an inopportune trade. But most of the time I simply store my images on my fastest or largest memory card and treat the second slot as convenient insurance.

Although having a pair of cards with the same form factor (as the R6 does) is most convenient, Canon elected to add a CFexpress slot and SD slot to the R5. The CFexpress form factor offers the ruggedness and comforting larger size many advanced enthusiasts and professionals prefer. They are also the most robust and fastest storage options available for digital photography. Note that the R5 uses the Type-B CFe card, not the smaller Type-A media that is about the size of an SD card.

Secure Digital cards have a lower top-speed ceiling than CFexpress cards. However, SD cards, including the latest SDXC cards, are available in speeds up to 300Mbs transfer rates with UHS-II-compliant models. Keep in mind that different vendors use different specifications for speed (both X factors and megabytes per second), and that write speed means how fast the device can transfer an image file to storage, while read speed (which may be emphasized because it is faster) represents how quickly the image can be transferred to your computer though a sufficiently fast connection (such as a USB 3.x card reader).

Learning Basic Navigation

The remaining setup steps require working with some of the basic controls of your camera. The R5 and R6 offer multiple ways to move through the various screens displayed in the viewfinder and on the back-panel LCD. You’ll use these navigational tools to make menus selections, move focus points and zones around within the frame, and to change the area viewed during focusing and playback. This camera also has a versatile touch screen that can perform many of the same functions. For this intentionally concise Quick Start, I will stick to the basic controls suggested. I’ll show you how to add the touch screen to your repertoire in Chapter 2.

Figure 1.5 shows the main navigational controls of both the R5 (left) and R6 (right). Note that the location and function of the navigation controls are identical on both cameras. The chief difference between them is that the R5 has a MODE button (which shifts among shooting modes like Aperture-priority and Shutter-priority) in the center of the Quick Control Dial 2. The R6 has a physical Mode Dial substituting for the R5’s top-panel LCD.

Figure 1.5 Basic navigational controls.

I’ll explain how to change shooting modes later. For now, let’s concentrate on the navigational controls:

Main Dial. This wheel, located on top of the camera aft of the shutter release button, is used within menus to move from one tab to the next; within the Quick Control screen to make setting adjustments; to move a focus point horizontally; or to adjust settings such as shutter speed.

Quick Control Dial 1. A wheel-like disc located on the back panel, the Quick Control Dial 1 is used to move vertically within a given menu tab; in the Quick Control screen to cycle among the 10 available settings; to move the focus point; or to adjust settings such as aperture.

Quick Control Dial 2. Located on the top-back edge of the camera, this dial rotates to quickly jump from one main menu tab to the next (for example, from the Shooting menu to the AF menu without visiting each individual tab within the main menus). It also duplicates the Quick Control Dial 1’s vertical focus point movement and duplicates the Main Dial’s setting adjustment function within the Quick Control screen.

Multi-controller. This joystick-like button can be shifted in eight directions with the tip of your finger. It can also be pressed inward to function as a Set/Return/Enter button when choosing some options. You’ll use it for things like setting white balance correction, moving the AF point or magnifying the frame within the image, or for making adjustments with the Quick Control screen.

INFO button. Changes the type of data shown on the display, cycling among available screens when pressed repeatedly.

Q button. Accesses the Quick Control menu, which I’ll describe shortly.

SET button. Serves as an Enter button to confirm menu choices and adjustments.

AVOIDING QUICK CONTROL CONFUSION

Canon didn’t do us any favors when it decided on nomenclature for its four directional controls, especially if you’re migrating from a non-Canon camera platform. We’re blessed with three dials and a joystick that have been given names that can be confusing for newcomers and veterans alike.

When Canon decided to augment its Main Dial located on the front of the top-right panel with a second dial positioned at the rear of the same panel, it could have labeled it Rear Dial to differentiate the two. Instead, the company elected to assign the name already given to the back-panel Quick Control Dial on its cameras and dub it Quick Control Dial 2. The original Quick Control Dial is now called Quick Control Dial 1. Sometimes the two dials perform the same function; I’ll alert you when you must use the second QCD.

In the past, I’ve used the QCD abbreviation to save space; henceforth QCD-1 will represent the original Quick Control Dial, and QCD-2 will be used to indicate what many call the rear dial interloper. The term Multi-controller will always refer to the R5’s or R6’s joystick.

Formatting a Memory Card

You can practice using the basic controls I just introduced by formatting a memory card. There are three ways to create a blank memory card for your camera, and two of them are at least partially wrong. Here are your options, both correct and incorrect:

Transfer (move) files to your computer. When you transfer (rather than copy) all the image files to your computer from the memory card (either using a direct cable transfer or with a card reader, as described later in this chapter), the old image files are erased from the card, leaving the card blank. Theoretically. This method does not remove files that you’ve labeled as Protected (choosing the Protect images function in the Playback menu) nor does it identify and lock out parts of your memory card that have become corrupted or unusable since the last time you formatted the card. Therefore, I recommend always formatting the card, rather than simply moving the image files, each time you want to make a blank card. The only exception is when you want to leave the protected/unerased images on the card for a while longer, say, to share with friends, family, and colleagues.

(Don’t) Format in your computer. With the memory card inserted in a card reader or card slot in your computer, you can use Windows or Mac OS to reformat the memory card. Don’t! The operating system won’t necessarily arrange the structure of the card the way the camera likes to see it (in computer terms, an incorrect file system may be installed). The only way to ensure that the card has been properly formatted for your camera is to perform the format in the camera itself. The only exception to this rule is when you have a seriously corrupted memory card that your camera refuses to format. Sometimes it is possible to revive such a corrupted card by allowing the operating system to reformat it first, then trying again in the camera.

Setup menu format. To use the recommended method to format a memory card, just follow these steps as labeled with step numbers in Figure 1.6:

1. Press the MENU button.

2. Rotate the Main Dial to select the Set-up 1 menu, represented by a wrench icon.

3. Spin the QCD-1 located on the back of the camera to move the highlighting down within the Set-up 1 menu to Format Card and press the SET button in its center.

4. Choose the card you want to format, and press SET to confirm.

5. Rotate the QCD-1 to highlight OK, and press SET again to start the format. You can optionally press the Trash button first to perform an extra thorough low-level clean-up format, which is a good idea if the card has been used many times.

Figure 1.6 Formatting a memory card.

Setting the Time and Date

The first time you use the camera, it may ask you to enter the time and date. (This information may have been set by someone checking out your camera on your behalf prior to sale.) Follow these steps:

1. Press the MENU button, located in the upper-left corner of the back of the camera.

2. Rotate the Main Dial (near the shutter release button on top of the camera) until the Set-up 1 menu is highlighted. It’s marked by a wrench and the message SET UP1, as shown at left in Figure 1.7.

3. Rotate the QCD-1 to move the highlighting down to the Date/Time/Zone entry.

4. Press the SET button to access the Date/Time/Zone setting screen, shown at right in Figure 1.7.

Figure 1.7 Choose the Date/Time/Zone entry from the Set-up 1 menu and set the parameters.

5. Rotate the QCD-1 to select the value you want to change. When the gold box highlights the month, day, year, hour, minute, or second format you want to adjust, press the SET button to activate that value. A pair of up/down pointing triangles appears above the value.

6. Rotate the QCD-1 to adjust the value up or down. Press the SET button to confirm the value you’ve entered.

7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 for each of the other values you want to change. The date format can be switched from the default mm/dd/yy to yy/mm/dd or dd/mm/yy. You can activate/deactivate Daylight Saving Time and select a Time Zone.

8. When finished, rotate the QCD-1 to select either OK (if you’re satisfied with your changes) or Cancel (if you’d like to return to the Set-up 1 menu screen without making any changes). Press SET to confirm your choice.

9. When finished setting the date and time, press the MENU button to exit.

REACH OUT AND TOUCH SOMETHING

As I noted, your camera has a touch-sensitive screen that is useful for navigating menus, selecting focus points, and other functions. In many cases, you can use the buttons and dials and the touch screen almost interchangeably, but for this introductory chapter I’m going to stick to using the physical controls instead of the touch controls. There are two reasons for that. First, it’s important you become comfortable using the buttons and dials, because for many functions they are faster, sometimes easier, and work reliably even when your fingers are encumbered (say, while you’re wearing gloves). In addition, this chapter is intended primarily for those new to the Canon mirrorless world. I’ll explain how to use the touch screen in Chapter 2.

Selecting a Shooting Mode

The following sections show you how to choose semi-automatic, automatic shooting, or exposure modes; select a metering mode (which tells the camera what portions of the frame to evaluate for exposure); and set the basic autofocus functions. If you understand how to do these things, you can skip ahead to Other Settings.

Turn on the camera, and, if you mounted a lens and inserted a fresh battery and memory card, you’re ready to begin. You’ll need to select a shooting mode, metering mode, and focus mode.

Shooting modes are selected in a slightly different way for the R5 and R6:

R5: Press the MODE button, located in the center of QCD-2 (see Figure 1.8, left) located on the top-right edge of the EOS R5. Press the button once, and press the left/right buttons, or rotate the Main Dial or Quick Control Dials to select a mode. The current mode is displayed on the LCD panel on the top of the camera and color LCD screen on the back of the EOS R5. (See Figure 1.9.)

R6: You can choose a shooting method with the R6 by rotating the Mode Dial, located on top of the camera, to the desired shooting mode. (See Figure 1.8, right.) The current mode is displayed in the lower-left corner of the viewfinder or upper-left corner on the LCD screen. (You may have to press the INFO