Lonely Planet Pocket Hamburg

By Anthony Ham

Lonely Planet’s Pocket Hamburg is your guide to the city’s best experiences and local life - neighbourhood by neighbourhood. Visit an icon of architecture at Elbphilharmonie, get medieval at Rathaus and start your Sunday like a local at Fischmarkt; all with your trusted travel companion. Uncover the best of Hamburg and make the most of your trip!

 

Inside Lonely Planet’s Pocket Hamburg: 

Up-to-date information - all businesses were rechecked before publication to ensure they are still open after 2020’s COVID-19 outbreak

Full-colour maps and travel photography throughout

Highlights and itineraries help you tailor a trip to your personal needs and interests

Insider tips to save time and money and get around like a local, avoiding crowds and trouble spots

Essential info at your fingertips - hours of operation, phone numbers, websites, transit tips, prices

Honest reviews for all budgets - eating, sightseeing, going out, shopping, hidden gems that most guidebooks miss

Convenient pull-out Hamburg map (included in print version), plus over 8 colour neighbourhood maps

User-friendly layout with helpful icons, and organised by neighbourhood to help you pick the best spots to spend your time

Covers Altstadt, Neustadt, St Georg, Speicherstadt & HafenCity, St Pauli & Reeperbahn, Altona & Elbmeile and more

 

The Perfect Choice: Lonely Planet’s Pocket Hamburg, an easy-to-use guide filled with top experiences - neighbourhood by neighbourhood - that literally fits in your pocket. Make the most of a quick trip to Hamburg with trusted travel advice to get you straight to the heart of the city.

 

Looking for more extensive coverage? Check out Lonely Planet’s Germany guide for a comprehensive look at all that Germany has to offer.

 

About Lonely Planet: Lonely Planet is a leading travel media company, providing both inspiring and trustworthy information for every kind of traveller since 1973. Over the past four decades, we've printed over 145 million guidebooks and phrasebooks for 120 languages, and grown a dedicated, passionate global community of travellers. You'll also find our content online, and in mobile apps, videos, 14 languages, armchair and lifestyle books, ebooks, and more, enabling you to explore every day. 

 

'Lonely Planet guides are, quite simply, like no other.' – New York Times

 

 

'Lonely Planet. It's on everyone's bookshelves; it's in every traveller's hands. It's on mobile phones. It's on the Internet. It's everywhere, and it's telling entire generations of people how to travel the world.' – Fairfax Media (Australia)

• Language: English
• Publisher: Lonely Planet
• Release date: Nov 1, 2022
• ISBN: 9781837580880

Anthony Ham

Anthony Ham es un fotógrafo y escritor independiente especializado en España, el sur y este de África, el Ártico y Oriente Medio que colabora con periódicos y revistas de Australia, Gran Bretaña y EEUU. En el 2001, tras años de recorrer mundo, se enamoró perdidamente de Madrid en su primera visita, y antes de un año estaba de vuelta con un billete solo de ida, sin hablar nada de español y sin conocer a nadie en la ciudad. Cuando 10 años más tarde por fin dejó la capital de España, hablaba español con acento madrileño, se había casado con una lugareña y Madrid se había convertido en su segundo hogar. De nuevo en Australia, Anthony sigue recorriendo el mundo en busca de historias.

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Contents

Plan Your Trip

Hamburg’s Top Experiences

Dining Out

Bar Open

Treasure Hunt

Museums & Galleries

Architecture

For Kids

Show Time

Tours & Activities

Under the Radar

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

For Free

Four Perfect Days

Need to Know

Hamburg Neighbourhoods

Explore Hamburg

Altstadt

Neustadt

St Georg

Speicherstadt & HafenCity

St Pauli & Reeperbahn

Altona & Elbmeile

Survival Guide

Survival Guide

Before You Go

Arriving in Hamburg

Getting Around

Essential Information

Responsible Travel

Language

Behind the Scenes

Our Writer

COVID-19

We have re-checked every business in this book before publication to ensure that it is still open after the COVID-19 outbreak. However, the economic and social impacts of COVID-19 will continue to be felt long after the outbreak has been contained, and many businesses, services and events referenced in this guide may experience ongoing restrictions. Some businesses may be temporarily closed, have changed their opening hours and services, or require bookings; some will unfortunately have closed their doors permanently. We suggest you check with venues before visiting for the latest information.

Hamburg’s

Top Experiences

1 Book ahead to attend a concert at the Elbphilharmonie

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JANIS MALECKIS/SHUTTERSTOCK © ARCHITECTS: HERZOG & DE MEURON

Hamburg’s Top Experiences

1 Ascend Mahnmal St-Nikolai’s spire for great views

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Hamburg’s Top Experiences

1 Watch the sun rise with a fish sandwich at the Fischmarkt

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Hamburg’s Top Experiences

1 Tour the Rathaus early morning for the facade’s best light

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Hamburg’s Top Experiences

1 Admire Hamburger Kunsthalle’s stunning architecture and art

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Hamburg’s Top Experiences

1 Climb St Michaelis Kirche tower for canal views

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Hamburg’s Top Experiences

1 Discover Hamburg’s maritime past at Internationales Maritimes Museum

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Hamburg’s Top Experiences

1 Wonder at Miniatur Wunderland’s model railway and airport

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Dining Out

Virtually every part of Hamburg has good dining options, ranging from humble to fine. Unsurprisingly, seafood is a favourite in this port city, with everything from traditional regional specialities to sushi on offer. You’ll also find a truly global variety of foods reflecting this city’s international links and traditions, but don’t neglect the widely available local specialities.

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Local Specialities

On paper, Germany’s (and Hamburg’s) best-known specialities appear deceptively simple: wurst, brot, kartoffeln and sauerkraut (sausage, bread, potatoes and pickled cabbage).

Labskaus

If there’s one Hamburg or northern German dish that Hamburgers love more than any other, it’s Labskaus. The constituent ingredients are potato, cured beef, herrings and beetroot (the latter gives it the rather lurid colour that distinguishes true Labskaus) and although it’s usually called a stew, ‘mash’ would be more accurate. It’s usually served topped with an egg.

Fischbrötchen

Finding the perfect Fischbrötchen (fish roll or fish sandwich; pictured) is something of a Hamburg obsession, at once lunchtime snack or late-night comfort food for those on the way home from a big night out. It’s a very simple dish, with a piece of pickled herring (sometimes salted, sometimes sweet) served in a small roll, often with a token piece of lettuce.

Best Restaurants

Das Dorf German specialities, cooked to perfection in St Georg.

Deichgraf Local specialities in a gorgeous Hamburg street.

Altes Mädchen Part of Hamburg’s new-wave dining scene.

Fischbrötchenbude Brücke 10 Pickled herring in a roll in Hamburg – tick!

Best Labskaus

Das Dorf Try its Labskaus with its homemade bread – two German passions in one.

Laufauf No-frills restaurant with terrific, hearty Labskaus.

Deichgraf Upmarket restaurant with large and small Labskaus offerings.

Old Commercial Room Longstanding Labskaus classic next to St Michaelis Kirche.

Best Fischbrötchen

Fischbrötchenbude Brücke 10 Our pick for the best Fischbrötchen, down by the port.

Atlantik Fisch Twenty different types and many people’s prize for the best in town.

Kleine Haie Grosse Fische Late-night fish sandwiches as comfort food in the heart of Reeperbahn’s party zone.

Bar Open

Hamburg’s nightlife is legendary, and rightly so. Elite cocktail bars, nonstop nightclubs and world-class DJs are all part of a mix that rocks and rolls with energy and innovation. Hamburg is renowned for its electro-punk sound, which started in the 1980s and has evolved and morphed endlessly. Clubkombinat (www.clubkombinat.de) has club listings.

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Bars & Pubs

The mainstay of Hamburg’s drinking culture, this catch-all category includes the rough-and-tumble neighbourhood pubs of St Pauli and the quietly sophisticated bars of Altona. Most open around 5pm during the week, earlier on weekends, and stay open until the last customer staggers out the door.

When it comes to city beaches, you have to salute Hamburgers for their can-do spirit. Undeterred by their renowned Schmuddelwetter (drizzly weather), they’ve built little sandy enclaves on the banks of the Elbe, where they can enjoy a beer on the sand.

Brewery Bars

Old-style beer cellars or other traditional drinking houses where the beer used to be (and sometimes still is) brewed on the premises. Craft beers are pushing their way into this scene.

Nightclubs

Don’t even think of visiting a Hamburg nightclub before midnight. Some don’t even get going until after 2am. Some Hamburg nightclubs have cover charges, and those that don’t play catch-up with expensive drinks.

Best Nightlife

Le Lion Hamburg’s most exclusive cocktail bar and home of the gin basil smash – as good as it sounds.

Molotow We love this legendary Reeperbahn nightclub.

Bar Hamburg Dress your best for this smooth-as-silk cocktail bar.

Zum Silbersack Everything and everyone you’d want in a St Pauli bar.

Best Cocktail Bars

Le Lion The king of Hamburg cocktail bars, in Altstadt.

Bar Hamburg Beloved by celebrity A-listers in St Georg.

Clouds Bar Rooftop cocktails high above Reeperbahn.

Katze Hamburg’s best caipirinhas over in Altona.

Best Brewery Bars & Craft Beers

Gröninger Privatbrauerei Try the home brew straight from the barrel in the historic cellar.

Biergarten Speersort Bavarian beer garden in the finest tradition of southern Germany.

Kyti Voo Craft beers dominate the drinks list in this terrific St Georg bar.

Best Neighbourhood Bars

Zum Silbersack Classic St Pauli pub that draws everyone in Hamburg.

Zur Ritze Eclectic Reeperbahn bar, at once risqué and mainstream with an occasional celebrity.

Golden Pudel Club St Pauli alternative icon with music in its soul.

Komet Musik Bar Vinyl records, its very own drink, and a loyal crowd – classic St Pauli.

Aurel Inviting Altona bar with a long drinks list and great music. (pictured)

Best Nightclubs

Molotow Epic Reeperbahn nightclub that never slows down.

Golden Cut Club High-end weekend-only club in St Georg.

Nachtasyl Longstanding city-centre nightspot whose popularity never wanes.

Moondoo Draws some of the best DJs in Germany and Europe.

Treasure Hunt

Hamburg’s shopping may not rival its nightlife in profile, but there are numerous interesting finds – from mainstream to offbeat – as you explore the city. As a general rule, shopping possibilities reflect the neighbourhoods they inhabit – Neustadt and Altstadt are refined and upmarket, while St Pauli, Altona and St Georg have more boutiques and artsy corner shops.

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Best by Neighbourhood

Altstadt Large department stores and bookstores, but a few smaller boutiques. (pictured)

Neustadt Hamburg’s shopping central with designer brands everywhere.

St Georg Little boutiques and quirky shops along Lange Reihe.

St Pauli & Reeperbahn Grungy and artsy if you know where to look.

Altona & Elbmeile Boutiques, fashion and homewares.

Best Boutiques & Markets

Mutterland The perfect German deli for gifts, picnics or a naughty sweet treat.

Flohschanze Excellent Saturday flea market in Karolinenviertel.

Koppel 66 Numerous stores and workshops selling arts and crafts under one roof.

Apropos the Concept Store International designer accessories displayed like works of art.

Fischmarkt Sunday-morning fish market with irresistible energy.

Best Souvenirs

Kaufhaus Hamburg Fun Hamburg-themed gifts in St Georg.

Art of Hamburg Hamburg gifts with a focus on homewares.

Hamburger SV City Store Football shirts and souvenirs from Hamburger SV.

Best Homewares, Art & Design

Koppel 66 Hamburg’s arts and crafts hub in St Georg.

Sleeping Dogs Concept store spanning vintage to Scandinavian style.

Wohnkultur 66 Danish work-of-art furnishings out in Altona.

Søstrene Grene Mainstream Scandinavian homewares and knick-knacks, in Altona.

Anne Zimmer Beautifully designed jewellery in a quiet corner of Neustadt.

Ars Japonica Tasteful Japanese prints and other perfectly formed items.

Best Clothes & Fashion

Neustadt Spend any time walking through this neighbourhood and you’ll find Hamburg’s best fashion shopping.

Apropos the Concept Store High-class designer accessories in this prestigious Neustadt address.

Crazy Jeans St Pauli fashions with attitude – is there any other kind?

Chapeau St Georg Hats, old and new, are all they sell here.

Best Food & Drink

Mutterland German delicatessen of the