In the 16th century, Ghent lost it all on the wrong bet. Built around rivers and canals, it was Europe’s secondlargest urban centre, falling just behind Paris. When Holy Roman Emperor Charles V, who ruled over Belgium, raised taxes to fund military action abroad, the city refused to pay out. They’d already given a fair share, locals argued, and surely Charles, who had been born in Ghent, wouldn’t turn on his home. In response, he marched into the city with his army, stripping it of its finery and parading its leaders in their undershirts, nooses around their necks.
Today, you can find evidence of the city’s illustrious past in its historical centre, home to a UNESCO-listed belfry and the Gravensteen, a stone fortress said to have been inspired by Crusader castles. And while its heyday is now behind it, Ghentians proudly tell the story of their fall from grace as proof of their rebellious streak.
This spirit survived, the sign of a place that’s at ease with its identity: socially conscious and full of fresh ideas. Initiatives like Nucleo are repurposing empty spaces into artists’ studios, and inviting the public to peer in once a year —in 2024, the open day
