Lonely Planet Jordan

By Jenny Walker and Paul Clammer

Lonely Planet’s Jordan is your passport to the most relevant, up-to-date advice on what to see and skip, and what hidden discoveries await you. Dive the Red Sea, wonder at the spectacular ancient city of Petra, and ride through Wadi Rum at sunset; all with your trusted travel companion. Get to the heart of Jordan and begin your journey now!

 

Inside Lonely Planet’s Jordan Travel Guide: 

Up-to-date information - all businesses were rechecked before publication to ensure they are still open after 2020’s COVID-19 outbreak

NEW top experiences feature - a visually inspiring collection of Jordan’s best experiences and where to have them

What's NEW feature taps into cultural trends and helps you find fresh ideas and cool new areas

NEW pull-out, passport-size 'Just Landed' card with wi-fi, ATM and transport info - all you need for a smooth journey from airport to hotel

NEW Accommodation feature gathers all the information you need to plan your accommodation

Improved planning tools for family travellers - where to go, how to save money, plus fun stuff just for kids

Colour maps and images throughout

Highlights and itineraries help you tailor your trip to your personal needs and interests

Insider tips to save time and money and get around like a local, avoiding crowds and trouble spots

Essential info at your fingertips - hours of operation, websites, transit tips, prices

Honest reviews for all budgets - eating, sleeping, sightseeing, going out, shopping, hidden gems that most guidebooks miss

Cultural insights give you a richer, more rewarding travel experience - history, people, music, landscapes, wildlife, cuisine, politics

Over 45 maps 

Covers Amman, Jerash, Irbid & the Jordan Valley, Dead Sea Highway, Madaba & the King’s Highway, Petra, Aqaba, Wadi Rum & the Desert Highway, Azraq & the Eastern Desert Highway

 

The Perfect Choice: Lonely Planet’s Jordan, our most comprehensive guide toJordan, is perfect for both exploring top sights and taking roads less travelled. 

 

About Lonely Planet: Lonely Planet is a leading travel media company, providing both inspiring and trustworthy information for every kind of traveller since 1973. Over the past four decades, we've printed over 145 million guidebooks and phrasebooks for 120 languages, and grown a dedicated, passionate global community of travellers. You'll also find our content online, and in mobile apps, videos, 14 languages, armchair and lifestyle books, ebooks, and more, enabling you to explore every day. 

 

'Lonely Planet guides are, quite simply, like no other.' – New York Times

 

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• Language: English
• Publisher: Lonely Planet
• Release date: May 1, 2022
• ISBN: 9781838695569

Jenny Walker

A pesar de haber viajado a más de 120 países desde México hasta Lesoto, el principal interés de Jenny Walker es Próximo Oriente, donde los últimos ocho años ha trabajado como decana adjunta para el Desarrollo Profesional en el Caledonian College of Engineering de Mascate. Su primer contacto con la región fue como estudiante, cuando recogía insectos para el libro sobre entomología de su padre en Arabia Saudí; después escribió una disertación sobre Doughty y Lawrence (Universidad de Stirling), una tesis de máster sobre el Oriente arábigo en la literatura británica (Universidad de Oxford) y una tesis doctoral sobre el desierto árabe como tropo en la literatura británica contemporánea (Universidad de Nottingham Trent). Miembro del Gremio de Escritores de Viajes de Gran Bretaña y del Outdoor Writers and Photographers Guild, Jenny ha escrito ampliamente sobre Oriente Próximo para Lonely Planet durante más de una década.

Book preview

Front CoverLonely Planet Logo

Jordan

MapHow To Use This eBookFull Page SamplerbuttonCountry Map

Contents

Plan Your Trip

Welcome to Jordan

Jordan Map

Jordan’s Top Experiences

Need to Know

What’s New

Month by Month

Itineraries

Red Sea Diving & Snorkelling

Outdoor Activities

Travel with Children

Regions at a Glance

On The Road

AMMAN

Around Amman

Wadi As Seer & Iraq Al Amir

Cave of the Seven Sleepers

JERASH, IRBID & THE JORDAN VALLEY

Jerash & Around

Jerash

Dibeen Forest Reserve

Ajloun

Ajloun Forest Reserve

Irbid & Around

Irbid

Abila (Quwayliba)

Yarmouk Battleground

The Jordan Valley

Mukheiba

Umm Qais (Gadara)

Pella (Taqabat Fahl)

Salt

DEAD SEA HIGHWAY

Dead Sea

Bethany-Beyond-the-Jordan

Dead Sea Panoramic Complex

Wadi Zarqa Ma’in

Mujib Biosphere Reserve

Lisan Peninsula

MADABA & THE KING’S HIGHWAY

Central Jordan

Madaba

Mt Nebo

Around Mt Nebo

Mukawir (Machaerus)

Umm Ar Rasas

Wadi Mujib

Ar Rabba

Karak

Khirbet Tannour

Dana

Shobak

PETRA

The Ancient City

Wadi Musa

Siq Al Barid (Little Petra)

AQABA, WADI RUM & THE DESERT HIGHWAY

Aqaba & Around

Aqaba

Red Sea Coast

Wadi Rum & Around

Wadi Rum

Diseh

The Desert Highway

Humaiyma

Ma’an

Qatrana

AZRAQ & THE EASTERN DESERT HIGHWAY

Azraq & Around

Zarqa

Hallabat

Azraq

Qusayr Amra

Qasr Kharana

Eastern Desert Hwy

Umm Al Jimal

Qasr Deir Al Kahf

Safawi

Burqu

UNDERSTAND

Understand Jordan

History

Amateur Archaeology

Biblical Sites of Jordan

People & Society

Islam

Traditional Crafts

Flavours of Jordan

The Natural Environment

Green Jordan & Ecotourism

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Safe Travel

Women Travellers

Directory A–Z

Accessible Travel

Accommodation

Climate

Customs Regulations

Electricity

Embassies & Consulates

Food

Insurance

Internet Access

Legal Matters

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

Maps

Money

Opening Hours

Photography

Post

Public Holidays

Telephone

Time

Toilets

Tourist Information

Visas

Volunteering

Work

Transport

Getting There & Away

Entering the Country

Air

Land

Getting to/from Jordan’s Borders

Sea

Getting Around

Air

Bicycle

Bus

Car & Motorcycle

Hitching

Taxis

Tours

Health

Language

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

COVID-19

We have re-checked every business in this book before publication to ensure that it is still open after the COVID-19 outbreak. However, the economic and social impacts of COVID-19 will continue to be felt long after the outbreak has been contained, and many businesses, services and events referenced in this guide may experience ongoing restrictions. Some businesses may be temporarily closed, have changed their opening hours and services, or require bookings; some unfortunately could have closed permanently. We suggest you check with venues before visiting for the latest information.

Welcome to Jordan

From the first ‘ahlan wa sahlan’ said in welcome, I knew that Jordan was to become a lifelong friend. After going in search of TE Lawrence as a student, I have returned many times to the low-slung tents of the Bedouin, sipped tea with rug-makers and walked in the wake of shepherds. Beautiful though it is, and blessed with a disproportionate number of wonders, Jordan inspires this loyalty primarily because of its spirit of generous optimism – opening its arms to strangers and sharing its wealth with neighbours in need.

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Hiking guide, Jordan Trail | JUSTIN FOULKES/LONELY PLANET ©

By Dr Jenny Walker, Writer

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For more, see our writers

Jordan’s Top 7

1HIKING HIGHLIGHTS

Exciting hikes across sand dunes, through forests and via the lush gorges of seasonally dry riverbeds (wadis) are highlights of a trip to Jordan. The best of these hikes thread through Jordan’s uplands; scattered with wild flowers in spring and scented with herbs after the hot summer, they follow the country’s ancient shepherd trails and lead between Jordan’s principal sites of interest.

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KONONCHUK ALLA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Petra

The magic of this intriguing ancient wonder (pictured right) is best sensed not at ground level but by hiking to the site’s mystical ‘high places’. Accessed via ancient stairways, these once-sacred plateaus offer an eagle-eye’s view of magnificent desert landscapes.

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FOXHALLFILMS/BUDGET TRAVEL ©

Jordan Trail

Tracing the length of the country, this rugged trail (pictured above) is Jordan’s defining trek. It is around 40 days and 650km of hiking and features hilltop vistas along its length.

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JUSTIN FOULKES/LONELY PLANET ©

Dana Biosphere Reserve

Dana (pictured above and far left) is remarkable for diversity of landscape. To see how fertile uplands bleed into the desert below, follow Wadi Dana Trail (16km, six hours); descending steeply through Bedouin grazing grounds, it ends at Feynan Ecolodge.

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CASE60/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

2FRIENDS, ROMANS & COUNTRYMEN

At the crossroads of ancient trade routes, Jordan’s landscape is a history book for those who care to read it. Pillars, pediments and pavements from ancient Rome, Crusader castles crowning remote hilltops, and the pleasure domes of Umayyad structures collectively misnamed as desert ‘castles’ form wistful reminders of the ruins of empire. Follow the dramatic King’s Highway from Madaba to Petra and this rich history unfolds.

Crusader Castles

Located along the King’s Highway, the Crusader strongholds of Karak and Shobak were built by zealous Crusaders in the 12th century.

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Karak Castle | LEONID ANDRONOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Eastern Pleasure Domes

Scattered across the rocky plains of eastern Jordan are the so-called ‘desert castles’. Trips from Amman thread between these early Umayyad pleasure palaces, set incongruously against stark desert landscape.

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‘Desert castle’ of Qasr Al Azraq | JOE WINDSOR-WILLIAMS/LONELY PLANET ©

Romans in Amman & Jerash

Centurions once clashed swords in the well-preserved amphitheatres of Amman and Jerash. Listen for their ghosts among the ruins or visit during the annual Jerash Festival for the more modern sounds of Jordan.

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Roman ruins, Jerash | LKPRO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

3LEAVING ONLY FOOTPRINTS

The desert may look dead, but it is home to the greatest survivors – both animal and vegetable. The desert comes alive in spring, from early April to late May when a profusion of flowers is flung across Jordan’s northern hills. Lucky visitors may spot the national flower, the black iris, which blooms with deep purple petals in and around Dana Biosphere Reserve.

Azraq Wetland Reserve

Hundreds of bird species use this green oasis (pictured above) during their winter migration. A visit to the bird hides here helps towards the preservation and restoration of the tragically shrinking wetland.

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BAIBARS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Shaumari Wildlife Reserve

Brought back from near extinction, oryx (pictured top right) thrive in this fascinating desert reserve. Highlights of a visit include an oryx safari and the opportunity to see other rare breeds, such as goitered gazelles and Persian onagers.

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TARASIKJO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The Feynan Experience

Candlelit suppers, bread-making classes, shepherd-for-a-day opportunities, roof-top stargazing and locally guided bike rides are part of the magic of overnighting at this unique desert ecolodge (pictured above).

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JUSTIN FOULKES/LONELY PLANET ©

Top Experiences

4VIEWS OF PROMISED LAND

For many, Jordan is more than just a traveller’s destination: it’s a place of Christian pilgrimage. It was at Mt Nebo that Moses supposedly surveyed the Promised Land before dying. Here, and on the east bank of the Jordan River, latter-day pilgrims can follow in the footsteps of former prophets. More than 100 sites in Jordan are mentioned in the Bible and most are accessible as day trips from Madaba.

Baptism at Bethany

The most important biblical site in Jordan, Bethany-Beyond-the-Jordan (pictured below) is the suggested location of Jesus’ baptism by John. Pilgrims still seek solace in the diminishing waters here.

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LERNER VADIM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Madaba’s Mosaic Map

Famed for the earliest known map of the Holy Land (pictured above), visitors to Madaba will find a Christian tradition threading through the town’s many sites of interest.

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WITR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Jebel Haroun

Revered equally by Muslims and Christians, this sublime sacred site, crowned with a white-washed shrine (Aaron’s Tomb; pictured right), is thought to be Mt Hor of the Old Testament.

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AHMAD A ATWAH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

5MAKING YOUR VISIT COUNT

The revival of cottage industries in Jordan over the past two decades has helped sustain traditional ways of life despite the country’s general embrace of all things urban and modern. Visitors can make a direct contribution to the welfare of rural communities by supporting Jordan’s many visitor-oriented cooperatives.

Women’s Cooperatives

Buy a hand-loomed rug or kilim from Mukawir and purchase the satisfaction of supporting a self-help initiative based on a craft that dates back centuries.

Crafts with a Conscience

Profits from handicraft shops in Amman and Madaba, run by local cooperatives, help support specific community-based projects. For lovely nature-inspired gifts, visit Wild Jordan in Amman.

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Traditional carpets for sale, Amman | VICTOR JIANG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Community Engagement

Guided foraging and cooking in Umm Qais, the most northerly town in Jordan, is one of many ways of gaining an insight into the traditional rhythms of rural Jordan.

Top Experiences

6FINDING YOUR INNER NOMAD

It wasn’t just dramatic Wadi Rum, with its burnished cliffs and auburn dunes, that awed Lawrence of Arabia as he paced on camelback through Bedouin territory – he was impressed equally by the stoicism of the people obliged to endure desert hardship. Today, it’s possible to experience something of nomadic life (albeit with creature comforts) by staying in Bedouin camps and trekking in the desert.

Camping in Wadi Rum

Stars, storytelling, tea and the whiff of goat hair – these are the memories of overnighting in Wadi Rum.

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Night skies, Wadi Rum | ELENA LISEYKINA/GETTY IMAGES ©

Living a Lawrence Moment

Buy a checked keffiyeh (headdress), hire a camel and be Lawrence for a day for the best desert encounter.

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Camel riding, Wadi Rum | MARCELLA MIRIELLO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Communal Cooking

Sampling mensaf (pictured above) – the Bedouin lamb, rice and pine nut speciality – is obligatory during a Jordan visit. Better still, make your own in Wadi Musa.

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BONCHAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

7WATERS WILD

For a country chronically short on drinking water, Jordan excels at the non-potable stuff. From floating in the high-salinity Dead Sea (pictured top) and having a mud bath on its barren shores to spotting lionfish, turtles and seahorses in the Red Sea around Aqaba, Jordan is justly famed for its marine activities. Less well known is that Jordan is also a great destination for canyoning and hikes along freshwater wadis.

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OLESYA BARON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Dead Sea

Jordan boasts dozens of thermal springs where the water averages 40°C and is rich in health-giving minerals. But for those who like their bath with bubbles, the Dead Sea spas offer paradise.

Red Sea

The Red Sea is famous the world over for underwater diversity. Divers, snorkelers and non-swimmers can enjoy the coral gardens from Jordan’s seaside city, Aqaba.

Wadi Mujib

Water flows year-round through this spectacular wadi (pictured left). The deep pools are a thrill for adventure-seekers, while novices can enjoy an unguided hike.

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IULIIA KHABIBULLINA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Need to Know

For more information, see Survival Guide

Currency

Jordanian dinar (JD)

Languages

Arabic, English

Visas

Visas, required by all visitors, are available (JD40 for most nationalities) at the international airports and most of Jordan’s land borders. Buying a Jordan Pass (www.jordanpass.jo) online before entering gives free access to many sites in Jordan, including Petra, and waives the visa fee.

Money

ATMs are available throughout the country and credit cards are widely used.

Mobile Phones

There is expansive coverage in Jordan for mobile phone networks. Local SIM cards can be used for international calls and can be topped up with readily available prepaid cards. 4G is increasingly available.

Time

Jordan Time (GMT/UTC plus two hours)

When to Go

03-climate-jor11

High Season (Mar–May)

A Perfect weather throughout Jordan with warm days and cool nights.

A Northern Jordan is blanketed in wildflowers in April.

A Reserve rooms in main tourist areas and expect higher rates.

Shoulder (Sep–Feb)

A The best time to visit the Red Sea; prices in and around Aqaba rise accordingly.

A Bitter nights in the desert with rain or snow curtail many activities, such as camping.

Low Season (Jun–Aug)

A The desert in the middle of the summer is extreme. Temperatures throughout Jordan can be stifling.

A Prices are at their best but many places close in the low season.

Useful Websites

Jordan Tourism Board (www.visitjordan.com) Excellent official website.

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/jordan) Destination information, hotel reviews, traveller forum and more.

RSCN (www.rscn.org.jo) Online booking for accommodation and eco-adventures in nature reserves.

Bible Places (www.bibleplaces.com) Biblical sights in Jordan.

Important Numbers

Exchange Rates

For current exchange rates see www.xe.com.

Daily Costs

Budget: Less than JD40

A Shared room in budget guesthouse: JD10–40

A Street fare and local markets: under JD5

A Public transport: JD5

Midrange: JD40–120

A Double room in midrange hotel: JD40–90

A Eating in local restaurants: JD5–10

A Car hire: JD50

A Entry costs/unguided activities: JD10

Top End: More than JD120

A Double room in five-star hotel: from JD90

A Buffet lunch/dinner: from JD15

A 4WD car hire: JD120

A Guided activities: JD50

Opening Hours

Opening times vary widely across the country. Many sights, government departments and banks close earlier in winter and during Ramadan. The following opening hours are therefore a rough guide only. The official weekend in Jordan is Friday and Saturday, so expect curtailed hours on these days.

Banks 8am–3pm Sunday to Thursday

Restaurants noon–midnight daily

Cafes 9am–midnight daily

Bars and Clubs 9pm–1am daily

Shops 9am–8pm Saturday to Thursday; some close 2pm–4pm

Souqs 9am–8pm daily

Arriving in Jordan

Queen Alia International Airport (south of Amman) The Airport Express Bus (JD3.25) runs to Amman every 30 minutes (from 6am to 5pm); the night bus runs hourly (6pm to 5am). Taxis cost JD20 to downtown Amman (around 45 minutes). Car hire is available in the arrivals hall.

Ferry Terminal (south of Aqaba) A taxi costs JD8 and takes 20 minutes from the ferry terminal and border to the centre of town.

Wadi Araba (Yitzhak Rabin) Border A taxi from the border costs JD11 and takes 15 minutes to central Aqaba (JD50, two hours to Petra).

Getting Around

Public transport is limited to intercity buses and buses that serve the needs of local communities, making it hard for travellers to reach key destinations without time and patience.

Car Hiring a car is recommended, especially for visiting the Dead Sea, Eastern Desert and King’s Highway. Driving is on the right.

Private Minibus Some hotels in Amman, Madaba, Petra and Aqaba organise minibus shuttle services and/or tours to key tourist destinations, including Eastern Desert sights.

Taxi Many locals get around by shared taxi. Negotiating a half- or whole-day rate with a taxi driver is a useful alternative to car hire.

For much more, see getting around

What’s New

In common with most countries around the world, Jordan’s current focus is on nursing the nation back to good health while keeping an eye on its wealth – no small task in a country of limited resources. Encouraging the return of international visitors is seen as a lifeline for many.

Best in Travel

Amman was awarded a place among the top 10 in Lonely Planet’s list of top diversity destinations in 2021.

With origins stemming from Levantine and Bedouin traditions, Jordanians’ famed hospitality gives the capital city Amman its soul. Once a stopover en route to the pink sandstone temples of Petra or the desert sands of Wadi Rum, Jordan’s capital has since blossomed into an intellectual and artistic hub.

Opportunities for authentic interactions with Amman’s diverse communities of Jordanian, Palestinian and Iraqi communities can be found in downtown Al Balad. Here, market stalls sell spices, clothes and musical instruments alongside beloved establishments like Habibah, Amman’s best kunafeh (sweet cheese-based dessert) shop.

In hip neighbourhoods such as Weibdeh and Jabal Amman, art galleries and creative cafe communities abound: it’s here that a visitor can feel the energy that has turned Amman into a vibrant city – as well as the hospitality that keeps visitors coming back for more.

Jordan Trail App

While the region’s best long-distance trail (675km) has been open since 2015, it has recently been given new prominence as part of a sustainable tourism initiative that promotes community development. As part of this project, a new Jordan Trail app has just been launched that gives maps, elevations and places to stay en route. See the excellent trail website for details (www.jordantrail.org). A hiker’s keepsake trail pass is also now available.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

LISTEN, WATCH AND FOLLOW

For inspiration and up-to-date news, visit www.lonelyplanet.com/jordan/articles.

Experience Jordan (www.experiencejordan.com/blogs) Answers questions such as ‘Is it safe to visit Jordan during Covid?’

Visit Jordan (www.visitjordan.com) Multilingual, official tourism site.

Gateway2Jordan (www.gateway2jordan.gov.jo) A-welcome-back-to-Jordan guide to safe travels for international visitors.

What’s On in Amman (www.allevents.in/amman/parties) Covering all events, including concerts, cooking classes and conferences in the capital.

Divergent Travellers (www.divergenttravelers.com/is-jordan-safe-to-visit) A useful blog that covers adventure tourism in Jordan.

FAST FACTS

Food trend Halva as a nourishing vegetarian treat

Bedouin population 1.3 million

Rank among water-impoverished countries Fifth

Population 10.1 million

Petra Museum

Formerly housed in two dusty old museums in the heart of the Ancient City, 280 items among the archaeological finds at Petra have at last been given a fine new home next to the Petra Visitor Centre. Opened in 2019, this beautiful museum – showcasing Nabataean culture – is open from 8.30am to 7.30pm daily, and entry is free.

Return of Leased Territory

Around 25 years after being leased to Israel, the lands of Al-Baqoura and Al-Ghamr were officially reclaimed by Jordan in October of 2018. King Abdullah travelled to this northern part of the Jordan Valley in late 2019 to fly the Jordanian flag over territory that was annexed for 25 years to Israel as part of the 1994 peace treaty between the two countries. Now a number of travel agencies are promoting tourism to this enclave, offering interesting socio-political insights in a region of hot waters.

Ajloun Zip Line

The striking new Royal Academy for Nature Conservation, within the 13-sq-km Ajloun Forest Reserve, has a new ace up its sleeve in the form of a 330m zip line. Flying above the surrounding woodlands, it has brought many visitors into the reserve and promises to establish the academy as a hub for adventure sports. The reserve is home to 500 species of wild plants (including 30 medicinal plants) and 100 species of birds and animals.

Birdwatching Boom

Situated in the Rift Valley–Red Sea Flyway, Jordan is on the world’s second-most important migratory route for birds. No surprise, then, that it’s a poorly kept secret for visiting birdwatchers, with 70 species spottable within three hours during peak migration. More surprising, however, is that the habit is catching on with locals; in a region traditionally associated with hunting rather than hiding, the RSCN is training up local guides at the Aqaba Bird Observatory in Wadi Araba and at bird hides in Azraq, Dana, Al Shaumari and Southern Shuneh. Contact RSCN to learn how a birding trip is right on message for those wanting their travels to count for more than numbers on a bird checklist.

Eastern Badia Trail

Jordan’s Eastern Badia Trail (JEBT), across the wild Bedouin haunts of the Eastern Desert, has been in the pipeline for several years and is now ready for rollout. The 528km trail offers a unique 4WD adventure with camel riding, hiking, camping and other activities punctuating the route. It extends from Azraq to Burqu – Jordan’s newest nature reserve – and looks set to become an off-road classic. Contact Wild Jordan for confirmation of the launch date.

WHAT’S HAPPENING IN JORDAN

Dr Jenny Walker, Lonely Planet writer

Jordan is no stranger to adversity: a country without oil revenue, it has had to contend with troublesome neighbours, four separate influxes of refugees and extreme water scarcity for over half a century. But recent challenges in the form of Covid-19 cases, a security rift with the former crown prince and the current escalation of tensions with Israel have unsettled even this most pragmatic of nations.

In particular, the outbreak of Palestinian unrest in Jerusalem, reportedly provoked by encroaching Israeli settlement on the West Bank, has pitched Jordan into an awkward diplomatic row. It falls on King Abdullah, as custodian of Al Haram Al Sharif (the Temple Mount Compound) since 1994, to keep the peace here while supporting fellow Hashemites in accessing Al Aqsa Mosque.

On the upside, Jordan is preparing for international visitors after a year of intermittent, Covid-19-related lockdowns. This is welcome news for a country that relies on tourism and where many rued ever complaining about too many visitors in Petra.

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Month by Month

TOP EVENTS

Jerash Festival, July

Hiking Season, March–April

Peak Wildflower Blooms, April

Dead Sea Ultra Marathon, April

Petra Desert Marathon, August

January

If you thought the desert was hot by default, think again! The desert is bitter cold until March. But while most of Jordan shivers under chilly skies, those in the know head for Aqaba.

2 Red Sea Snorkelling & Diving

Aqaba, with its warm winter sunshine, hosts the annual holiday exodus of urbanites from the hills. The winter months, from December to March, are perfect for an underwater adventure, with clear skies and crystal-clear waters.

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Waterfront, Aqaba | ABDALLAH DARABSEH/SHUTTERSTOCK

April

April is the most popular month to visit Jordan, and with good reason. The weather is balmy and the semi-arid hills of northern Jordan burst into magnificent, knee-high bloom.

5 Ramadan

During the 30 days of Ramadan, Muslims must refrain from eating, drinking and smoking between dawn and dusk. While there are some restrictions for visitors, Ramadan also brings special delicacies unavailable at other times.

2 Dead Sea Ultra Marathon

Not just for a few crazed locals, the Dead Sea Ultra Marathon attracts athletes and amateurs – all heading below zero. The 50km race begins in Amman at 900m above sea level and ends 400m below the international tideline.

3 Jordan Rally

The annual Jordan Rally (www.jordanrally.com) attracts cheering crowds to the Dead Sea shore. The world’s leading rally drivers participate in this 1008km route.

2 Nature Walking

Spring, from late March to mid-May, is the best time to visit Jordan’s nature reserves. The elusive black iris (Jordan’s national flower) blooms and nature lovers can hike through narrow wadis without fear of flash floods.

z Eid Al Fitr

Marking the end of Ramadan, Eid Al Fitr is a time of festivity for Muslims. Disruptions to opening hours, and heavily booked transport and hotels are likely; on the upside, an invitation to join the party is an opportunity not to be missed.

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Black irises | OMARDAJANI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

May

Still peak tourist season, the country heats up in May leaving low-lying areas toasting. It’s also peak season for flowering oleander, making the wadis pretty in pink.

2 Hiking & Camel Trekking

It may be heating up in Petra and Wadi Rum, but the desert is a quintessential experience in the heat. With sizzling days and breezy nights, you quickly slip into the rhythm of Bedouin life, rising early and napping after lunch.

z Independence Day

On 25 May, Jordanians celebrate national day with bunting and flags and military parades in the capital. It’s a good excuse for a chat, water pipe and mint tea with friends, and visitors are always made welcome.

July

The midsummer month of July brings hazy skies and suffocating heat and few choose this time of year for a visit. Thankfully, it is cheered up by open-air cultural events.

z Eid Al Adha

Marking the end of Hajj, the annual pilgrimage to Mecca, this Islamic holiday falls in June or July until 2025. Shops close as owners join their families on these important days of celebration.

ISLAMIC HOLIDAYS

Ramadan, the month of fasting, and the two main Islamic holidays in the year, Eid Al Fitr and Eid Al Adha (marked by feasting and family festivities), are observed throughout Jordan. The dates are governed by the lunar calendar and therefore advance by roughly 10 days each year.

For a list of upcoming dates, see the chart.

z Jerash Festival of Culture & Arts

Hosted within world-class Roman ruins, Jordan’s best-loved cultural event brings ancient Jerash to life with plays, poetry recitals, opera and concerts. Held annually since 1981, the festival usually spans three weeks of the summer months.

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Jerash Festival of Culture & Arts | SEB001/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

3 Traditional Concerts & Plays

In July and August traditional concerts and plays are held at the Odeon and Roman Theatre in Amman, as well as in Salt and Fuheis.

August

Just when you think it can’t get any hotter, August arrives with high temperatures radiating off the parched earth. Little wonder visitors are few.

2 Petra Desert Marathon

When the heat is at its most extreme, marathon runners take to the near vertical ascents around Petra in a bewildering act of self-punishment (www.albatros-adventure.com/petra-desert-marathon).

September

With the first signs of autumn showers, the scorched earth returns to life and everyone, including the farmers, makes hay while the sun shines.

October

Residents of Jordan sigh with relief in September as temperatures show signs of cooling and markets abound with figs, corn and fresh olive oil.

2 Jordan Running Adventure Race

Covered in a single stage usually between Petra and Wadi Rum, this 160km ultra trail (www.tendao-run.com) has become an established part of Jordan’s sporting calendar.

November

Blustering with wind and heavy rains, November signals flash flood season as water chases through sun-dried wadis towards Wadi Araba. Not the best month for hiking, but good for sightseeing.

2 Floating in the Dead Sea

With fewer tourists than in spring, you may be bobbing alone in the Dead Sea in November. Early harvests of mangos and bananas from the Jordan Valley give extra enticement!

Itineraries

In the Footsteps of Kings: Amman to Aqaba Return

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1 WEEK

Thanks to its relatively compact size, Jordan rewards even the shortest of getaways, especially if you’re prepared to hire a car. This route takes in most of Jordan’s key sites in a journey along the King’s Highway, the ancient backbone of the country.

On day one, experience modern Jordan in the souqs of Amman. On day two, piece together a biblical history in the mosaic town of Madaba and, like Moses, survey the Promised Land from neighbouring Mt Nebo.

Spend day three following the caravans of history along the King’s Highway, crossing mighty Wadi Mujib. Visit the Crusader castles in Karak and Shobak and listen for ghostly hooves against cobbles.

Rise early on day four to experience the Siq at Petra and climb to a High Place for lunch. On day five, attempt the back trail to Petra and watch the sunset at Petra’s iconic Monastery. Proceed to the seaside town of Aqaba, two hours away. On day six, wash off the desert dust in the spectacular Red Sea before returning to Amman (four hours via the Desert Highway) on day seven; with an early start, a desert lunch is possible at Wadi Rum en route.

Itineraries

The Best of Jordan

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3 WEEKS

With around 21 days, you can unravel a path through Jordan’s most famous sites, travelling in the footsteps of Roman legionnaires, Crusader craftsmen, Islamic warriors and Bedouin nomads. This route takes you on a comprehensive tour of all Jordan’s main highlights and throws in a few wild cards too.

Begin with two days in Amman and a third day at the spectacular Roman ruins of Jerash. For a springtime flower show, camp overnight at the oak woodlands of Ajloun Forest Reserve or spend day four wading knee-high among daisies at the ruins of Umm Qais. On day five descend to the subtropical Jordan Valley, pausing at the point where Jesus was allegedly baptised in Bethany-Beyond-the-Jordan.

Follow Jordan River towards a night of luxury at the Dead Sea, followed by an early morning float on day six at the world’s lowest point. Survey the West Bank from a higher vantage at the Dead Sea Panoramic Complex en route for Mujib Biosphere Reserve. Splash, swim and struggle through ‘Petra with water’ on the unguided Siq Trail. Dry out along the Dead Sea Highway to Lot’s Cave and swap stories about the adventure over a vegetarian supper at candlelit Feynan Ecolodge.

Begin week two chilling in Aqaba for two days, sparing time for a dive or snorkel in the fabled Red Sea. With batteries recharged, tackle a hike in Wadi Rum on day 10 and stay overnight in a Bedouin camp. Spend the next three nights in Wadi Musa, joining Petra by Night for a magical introduction to the world wonder of Petra.

Head north from Petra via the ancient King’s Highway on day 14, sparing time to pause at the imposing castle of Shobak. Break the journey at Dana Biosphere Reserve and relax on day 15, taking village walks or longer guided hikes.

Spend day 16 making the most of the King’s Highway to Madaba, pausing at Karak and Herod’s Castle in Mukawir. Allow day 17 for souvenir shopping in Madaba or at craft shops in Mt Nebo. From days 18 to 20, cross the desolate Eastern Badia, overnighting at Burqu’s ecolodge and Azraq Lodge, touring the desert castles, birdwatching at Azraq’s wetland reserve and going on oryx safari at nearby Shaumari Wildlife Reserve.

Itineraries

Middle East Heartland: Border to Border

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2 WEEKS

Jordan is plumb in the middle of a richly historic region, making it essential to a Middle East adventure. This 14-day route by public transport assumes entry by ferry from Egypt and exit by bus to Israel and the Palestinian Territories. Check the latest travel advisories before making this trip as the security situation in South Sinai (Egypt) is changeable.

Spend the first two days relaxing in Aqaba: Jordan has a distinct character, immediately felt in the souqs and open-air restaurants of this seaside town. Spare time for a swim – Jordan’s access to the Red Sea may be diminutive, but the coral gardens are pristine and relatively unvisited. On day three take the morning bus and go in search of ‘El Lawrence’ in magnificent Wadi Rum. Hop astride a camel and head into the sand dunes for a camping experience with the Bedouin.

On day four rise at dawn with the locals, ready to catch the minibus to Petra. With two days in the pink city, you can hike to the High Places, learn to cook Jordanian food at Petra Kitchen, watch the sunset from the Monastery and enjoy an evening in the famous Cave Bar.

On day six head north to Amman on frequent Desert Highway buses via Ma’an. Sample the city nightlife, including an evening’s stroll downtown through Amman’s Roman ruins. Hike from the Citadel on day seven and reward the effort with the capital’s best-loved Arabic street food at Hashem Restaurant.

Take an overnight trip on days eight and nine to Azraq and the Desert Castles. Azraq Fort was Lawrence’s winter hideout. Nearby Azraq Wetland Reserve is a reminder of the fragility of life in the black Badia (stone desert). Given the context, the shrunken waters of the oasis seem miraculous.

Head for the Roman ruins of Jerash on day 10. After visiting the extensive site the following morning, spend two nights in Ajloun. With its crumbling castle, nature reserve, Al Ayoun Trail and village homestays, Ajloun offers a rare chance to engage with rural life in the Middle East. Travel up to peaceful Umm Qais on day 13 for a spot of basket weaving before heading to the border with Israel and the Palestinian Territories on day 14.

Itineraries

Gems in Northern Jordan

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4 DAYS

With a long weekend, most visitors head straight for Petra on an overnighter from Amman. For a more rewarding use of time, leave the pink city for a longer visit and focus instead on Jordan’s gems in the north. This trip bypasses the capital.

Hire a car or take a taxi from the airport in Amman and head to the Roman ruins of Jerash. On day two, amble down to the Jordan Valley via Ajloun and the Islamic Ajloun Castle. Pause at the point where John allegedly baptised Jesus at Bethany-Beyond-the-Jordan and book in for some extreme R&R at the lowest place on earth at the Dead Sea. On day three, tear yourself away from the fluffy towels of the region’s best spas (which come complete with a bob in the Dead Sea and therapeutic mud pack) and drive via the Dead Sea Panoramic Complex to nearby Mukawir, where Salome reputedly danced for John’s head on a platter. Skirt the plateau ridge to the friendly mosaic town of Madaba and on day four visit Mt Nebo or the dolmens of Wadi Jadid. From Madaba, allow an hour to return to the airport in Amman.

Itineraries

Petra Plus

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6 DAYS

Travellers often ask: ‘Is it worth making the effort to get to Petra with only limited time?’ The answer is yes! While you can cover Petra in an exhausting day trip from the capital, this route takes you on a more rewarding route through the south if you’re prepared to use taxis.

From Amman, take the bus along the Desert Highway to Aqaba. With plenty of accommodation, a lively ambience and excellent seafood, it’ll be hard to leave town on day three. Take the early bus to Wadi Musa, the town closest to the Nabataean treasures of Petra. Amble through the Siq at midday, missing the morning tour groups. Watch the sunset turn the Royal Tombs pink, and return to the lively traveller scene along the town’s Tourism St.

Follow the ghosts of Crusaders along the King’s Highway to Shobak on day four and stay overnight at Dana Biosphere Reserve. Hike down to Feynan Ecolodge on day five, prearranging transport along the Dead Sea Highway back to Aqaba (or north to Amman) on day six.

Plan Your Trip

Red Sea Diving & Snorkelling

Crystal-clear water, coral gardens and multicolour fish: these features have drawn expert divers to the Red Sea for years. But in Jordan you don’t have to be certified to have fun – even the casual swimmer can easily and affordably don goggles and enjoy the spectacle.

Best Water Activities

Best Dive

Cedar Pride The coral-encrusted hulk of this sunken ship is Jordan’s most famous dive site.

Best Snorkel

Japanese Garden Shore access and a gradual slope to a colourful reef make this the best place to hoist a snorkel.

Best Underground Gardens

Gorgonian I Renowned for 16m fan coral and house-sized cabbage coral.

Gorgonian II Spectacular trimming of fire, stony and raspberry corals.

Best Turtle Encounter

Power Station Turtles regularly frequent this dive site. Don’t be unnerved by the hammerheads – shark attacks are extremely rare.

Best Watering Holes

Darna Divers Village This is the current favourite to dry your flippers while you wet your whistle.

Bedouin Garden Village Swapping fishy stories under a Bedouin tent is an ‘après dive’ highlight.

Planning Your Dive or Snorkel

The Red Sea has a legendary reputation among underwater enthusiasts. Conglomerations of coral rise from the seabed, shallow reefs teem with brightly coloured fish, sheer drop-offs disappear into unplumbed depths and an eerie, ethereal blue pervades the cut-glass water.

While it is no secret that the Red Sea is one of the world’s finest marine destinations, it’s less known that Jordan has 27km of precious access to this underwater wonderland alongside the Gulf of Aqaba. This is good news for those divers and snorkellers who seek pristine reefs. It is also good news for those who favour an altogether low-key experience; indeed, the whole diving scene here is delightfully relaxed and unpretentious. Even if you have no intention of diving and snorkelling, you may just find yourself lured into the water regardless by the friendly staff at the travellers’ camps along the shore.

For a more structured experience in luxury surroundings, the Tala Bay complex offers a full range of underwater activities without the need to shuttle to and from Aqaba.

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Clear Visibility

Surrounded by desert on three sides, the Red Sea was formed 40 million years ago when the Arabian Peninsula split from Africa, and it is the only tropical sea that is almost entirely enclosed by land. No river flows into it and the influx of water from the Indian Ocean is slight, resulting in minimal tides and high salinity. It is also windy – on average the sea is flat for only 50 days a year. This unique combination of elements means that visibility underwater is usually unfailingly crystal-clear, contributing to the almost surreal sense of encounter with kaleidoscopic marine life.

High Accessibility

Enjoying the wonders of the deep is easy to organise, with many of the dive sites readily accessible to snorkellers. Dive centres offer accommodation close to the shore – handy for those who want to make diving and snorkelling the main focus of their visit to southern Jordan, and fun for those who just want to enjoy a laid-back, sociable time among fellow travellers.

Those who prefer the buzz and amenities of Jordan’s seaside city can easily find transport to and from Aqaba, making the dive sites accessible as a day trip from town. Tala Bay nearby offers mid- and top-end resort accommodation.

When, Where & How

When to Go

The water temperature is warm (an average 22.5°C in winter and 26°C in summer), making the in-water experience pleasant at any time of year. That said, it is important to bear in mind the high temperatures of summer, which can make it uncomfortably hot on shore with a high risk of sunburn during the day.

Best Times

Late January to mid-May This is the best time to dive weather-wise. Bear in mind that late winter attracts holidaymakers from Amman, pushing up the price of accommodation in Aqaba. Spring is peak tourist season for international visitors and the busiest time for dive centres.

October to November The second-most popular time to dive but prepare for the odd overcast or rainy day, which makes for comparatively disappointing viewing of marine life.

Times Best Avoided

Mid-May to September The shore is usually miserably hot in the middle of summer and the risk of burning is high both in and out of the water.

Late December to late January Although usually mild in Aqaba, freezing-cold weather and occasional thunderstorms can sweep in from the desert at any time during winter. Wetsuits are a must and locals will wonder why you’re bothering with the sea in chilly weather when you could be just enjoying a mint tea and chatting with friends.

RESPONSIBLE DIVING & SNORKELLING

The Red Sea’s natural wonders are just as magnificent as Jordan’s historical and cultural splendours – and they need just as much protection. To help preserve the ecology and beauty of the reefs for posterity, please heed the following advice:

A Do not touch, remove or stand on coral and avoid dragging equipment across the reef. Reefs are easily damaged by unthinking contact with feet and flippers.

A Minimise your disturbance of marine animals. In particular, do not ride on the backs of turtles or give food to the fish. Yes, sadly, it happens!

A Avoid large surges of water or kicking up sand with your fins; this may smother the delicate organisms of the reef.

A Do not throw rubbish into the sea or leave it on the beach. Plastics in particular are a serious threat to marine life. Turtles often mistake plastic for jellyfish, their favourite food.

A Ensure boats are anchored to buoys, not attached to precious coral, and are not grounded on coral. If your captain is unmindful of this rule, report any misconduct to your dive centre on return to shore.

A Practise and maintain proper buoyancy control. Major damage can be done by divers descending too fast and colliding with the reef.

A Resist taking marine souvenirs, which depletes the beauty of a site and is illegal in Jordan. Remember, too, that shells are the ‘castles of the hermit crabs’.

Where to Go

Jordan’s short coastline along the Gulf of Aqaba stretches between Israel and the Palestinian Territories and Saudi Arabia. Diving and snorkelling is focused between the port of Aqaba and the Saudi border. This stretch of coast is protected within the Aqaba Marine Park, part of the larger Red Sea Marine Peace Park, run in cooperation with Israel and the Palestinian Territories. Reefs here are in excellent condition, and the soft corals, especially those found on the Cedar Pride, are beautiful and varied.

There are about 15 sites worth visiting. The majority can be enjoyed by snorkellers as well as divers as they are easily accessible from either a jetty or the beach. Although you can enter the water at any spot along the coast, snorkellers tend to gravitate towards the private beach at the Royal Diving Club.

Sites are not signposted, nor are they remotely obvious from the road. If you want to dive or snorkel independently, you’ll have to ask for directions, or take your chances and search for ‘obvious’ offshore reefs. On the whole, to avoid wasting half a day trying to find an interesting stretch of water, it’s better to take local advice.

How to Go

Dive Centres

Trips are easily organised through specialist operators in Aqaba or along the Red Sea coast and many hotels facilitate diving and snorkelling trips as well. There are a number of dive centres with a long-standing reputation for excellence.

Choosing a Dive Centre

A Choose a reputable dive centre that makes safety a priority.

A If you have not dived for more than three months, take a refresher dive. The cost is usually applied towards later dives.

A Check hoses, mouthpieces and valves for cuts and leakage.

A Choose your wetsuit carefully: it may sound patronising, but in the heat of summer they perish, easily leading to a chilly and unpleasant experience in winter months.

A Check that there is oxygen on the dive boat in case of accidents.

Costs

The satisfying part of diving and snorkelling in Jordan is that it doesn’t have to cost an arm and a leg. In fact, for under JD10 per day you can bask above fan corals, swim with sardines, tread water among angels and float among clowns. The following table gives a rough idea of what costs to expect. With competitive rates for courses, Jordan is a good place to learn to dive or to enhance your skills at all levels.

The Underwater Experience

What to See Underwater

According to the Royal Marine Conservation Society of Jordan (www.jreds.org), the gulf has more than 110 species of hard coral and 120 species of soft coral forming spectacular reefs. These reefs are home to about 1000 species of fish, including colourful clownfish, parrotfish and angelfish, and a whole variety of life from dolphins to molluscs and sponges. Protected green turtles frequent the dive sites and harmless whale sharks pay a visit in summer.

Buy the plastic Red Sea Fishwatchers Field Guide, which can be taken under-water to identify species of fish and coral.

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Diving in the Red Sea | BRANDELET/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

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Picasso triggerfish in the Red Sea | BEARACREATIVE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Internet Resources

Among the hundreds of internet references to help inform your underwater experience, the following are recommended.

Wind Finder (www.windfinder.com/forecast/aqaba) Check on current conditions to ensure you pick the best day for your dive.

PADI (www.padi.com/scuba-vacations/jordan) Jordan is a good place to learn to dive and PADI arguably gives the most trusted certification. Its website has details about dive courses and other diving-related information on Jordan.

Reef Check (www.reefcheck.org) A membership organisation working to save coral reefs in the Red Sea and elsewhere in the world.

Hazards of the Sea

It’s worth familiarising yourself with the main marine hazards before snorkelling or diving – single-page colour guides to the Red Sea’s common culprits can be bought in hotel bookshops around diving areas.

Stonefish A poisonous fish with a nasty habit of lying half-submerged in the sand: wear something on your feet if you’re wading out to a dive site. If stung by a stonefish, you should see a doctor immediately.

Lionfish These have poisonous spikes like stonefish. Calamine lotion, antihistamines and analgesics may reduce the reaction and relieve pain. Some swear by the application of urine!

Jellyfish Sometimes occurring in enormous groups, jellyfish can be something of a scourge in warm waters. Depending on the species, their sting can be very painful. The best remedy is to douse the rash with vinegar.

Sharks In this part of the Gulf of Aqaba, you’re most likely to encounter white- or black-tipped reef sharks. Tiger sharks and the enormous, plankton-eating whale sharks are generally found only in deeper waters. Attacks from these apex predators are extremely rare in this area but obvious common sense applies if you have a bad cut or bleeding wound.

Coral The cuts from coral are notoriously slow to heal. Make sure you clean wounds thoroughly to avoid infection. Unlike the cold waters of northern seas, subtropical sea water is full of troublesome organisms that can cause serious infection.

Crown of thorns starfish Known as COTS, these invasive starfish feed on and kill local coral. Divers should notify their divemaster if they spot them.

Other creatures to avoid Moray eels, sea urchins, fire coral, blowfish, triggerfish and turkeyfish are better left alone.

RED SEA ROYALS

Sultan Ibrahim, king fish and king soldier bream are not the only royals in the water. Diving in Jordan enjoys support from the very top, with King Abdullah II reported to be an avid diver. In fact, his patronage was instrumental in the establishment of Jordan’s premier artificial reef, the wreck of the Cedar Pride. Running aground after a fire in the engine room, this Spanish-built cargo ship was towed back out to sea in 1986 by the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) and sunk as an artificial reef. Today, the freighter lies on her port side at a depth of 25m, within easy reach from the shore, and is now one of the premier dive sites in the Red Sea.

Safety Advice

Any underwater adventure incurs some element of risk but with planning and a bit of common sense, the risks can be minimised. It’s also worth brushing up on key diving tips before you book your trip.

The reputable dive centres are equipped with emergency oxygen tanks, a first-aid kit and a mobile phone.

THE RED SEA – A SEVENTH WONDER

Ever wondered where the Mare Rostrum (Red Sea) got its name? Some believe it was named after the red sandstone mountain ranges that surround the sea. Others insist it was named after the periodic blooms of algae that tinge the water reddish-brown. But whatever the etymology of the name, the Red Sea is now synonymous with underwater spectacles par excellence – and that’s official! In 1989 a panel of scientists and conservationists selected the northern portion of this 1800km-long body of water as one of the Seven Underwater Wonders of the World.

Jordan’s Best Dives

Power Station

Location: Around 500m south of Aqaba

Rating: Intermediate

Access: Shore or boat

From a shallow fringing reef of fire coral, a sloping plateau of coral and sand patches leads to a 200m sheer wall, dropping from 12m to a narrow shelf at 40m.

First Bay & Cazar Reef

Location: Next to the Marine Science Station

Rating: Novice

Access: Shore or boat

First Bay is a shallow reef plateau with lagoons and sandy channels leading to a fringing reef of fire coral. Just south is Cazar