AFAR

Old Trails

Yalla, yalla!” Sari Husseini called out in Arabic. “Let’s go!”

With 10 miles of trail ahead, we pedaled away from Jebel es Saffaha, a mountain in southern Jordan with a long narrow ridge leading to its summit. To the west, the Arabah Valley cut a swath next to the Israel-Jordan border. To the east, the Ard as Sawwan Desert unfolded into a shimmering haze toward Saudi Arabia.

In the spring of 2022, photographer Kari Medig and I set off with our

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