Live and Look Younger: A Dermatologist's Guide to Youthful Skin and Ageless Beauty
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About this ebook
When it comes to skincare, it can be hard to discern between marketing hype and the actual science behind best practices. With so much conflicting information, where do you start? How do you find the right skincare regimen and products for your skin? How do you maintain youthful skin or reverse the aging process?
Look no further than L
Dr. Kemunto Mokaya
Hi there! I'm Dr. Kemunto Mokaya, but you can call me Dr. Kemmy. I'm a board-certified dermatologist, and I've spent over a decade mastering the art of skincare. My journey began at Yale University, where I immersed myself in Biology and African studies for my bachelor's, followed by a master's in Health Sciences, and finally, my medical degree. I honed my skills further during my internship at Massachusetts General Hospital and my Dermatology residency at UCSF.I'm passionate about helping you achieve your best skin yet. My patients often comment on my thorough approach, and I must admit, my smile is pretty infectious! I'm proud to have been recognized as a "Top Doctor" by Vitals, but the real reward is seeing my patients' satisfaction.Beyond the clinic, I'm an author, speaker, and podcaster. My book, "LIVE AND LOOK YOUNGER," is close to my heart - it's all about empowering you with knowledge for youthful skin and timeless beauty. And when I'm not busy with skincare, I love contributing to scientific publications and volunteering as a medical expert for the Albinism Society of Kenya.Originally from Kenya, I now call Texas home. You can find me enjoying family time, traveling, indulging in a good book, or engaging with my wonderful online community. Don't forget to follow me @drKemmyMD - let's embark on this journey to radiant skin together!
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Live and Look Younger - Dr. Kemunto Mokaya
LIVE & LOOK YOUNGER
Copyright © 2022 Kemunto Mokaya
All rights reserved.
Published by Publish Your Gift
An imprint of Purposely Created Publishing Group, LLC
No part of this book may be reproduced, distributed or transmitted in any form by any means, graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopy, recording, taping, or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher, except in the case of reprints in the context of reviews, quotes, or references.
Scriptures marked NKJV are taken from the New King James Version®. Copyright © 1982 by Thomas Nelson. All rights reserved.
Printed in the United States of America
ISBN: 978-1-64484-500-4 (print)
ISBN: 978-1-64484-501-1 (ebook)
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Dedication
I dedicate this book to my family members, who I treasure so deeply, particularly my husband and my rock, Moses Osoro. I dedicate it to my three wonderful children—Joshua, Michelle, and James—who were incredibly patient with me throughout the writing process. To my parents and greatest cheerleaders: Lora and Stanley Mokaya. To my siblings, in-laws, greater extended family, and friends: thank you for your unending love and support. Finally, I dedicate this book to my readers. May your skin be forever fresh, radiant, and beautiful as you live and look younger.
Note to the Reader
This publication contains the opinions and ideas of its author. It is intended to provide informative and helpful material. It is sold with the understanding that the author and publisher are not engaged in rendering medical, health, or any kind of professional services in the book. The reader should consult his or her medical professional before adopting any of the suggestions in this book or drawing inferences from it. The author and publisher disclaim all responsibility for any liability, loss, or risk, personal or otherwise, that is incurred as a consequence, directly or indirectly, of the use and application of any of the contents of this book. In addition, names and identifying details of the individuals portrayed in this book have been changed.
Table of Contents
Foreword
Preface
Acknowledgments
Introduction
PART ONE: What You Need to Know About the Skin and How It Ages
CHAPTER 1: Skincare Basics: Parts of the Skin and Their Roles
CHAPTER 2: Skin Age Tests
CHAPTER 3: Signs of Aging Skin by the Decade
CHAPTER 4: The Culprits That Age the Skin
CHAPTER 5: Problems of Aging Skin and Other Skin Concerns
PART TWO: Choosing the Best Regimen and Products
CHAPTER 6: How to Tell Your Skin Type
CHAPTER 7: Basic Skincare Regimens
CHAPTER 8: Cleansers
CHAPTER 9: Moisturizers
CHAPTER 10: Sunscreens
CHAPTER 11: Skin Treatments
PART THREE: FRESHER Lifestyle Strategies to Counter Aging
CHAPTER 12: Food
CHAPTER 13: Rest
CHAPTER 14: Exercise
CHAPTER 15: Stress Control
CHAPTER 16: Habits
CHAPTER 17: Environment
CHAPTER 18: Recharge
PART FOUR: Cosmetic Procedure Guide
CHAPTER 19: How to Choose Optimal Procedures
CHAPTER 20: Neurotoxins and Fillers
CHAPTER 21: Lasers and Body Sculpting
CHAPTER 22: Chemical Peels, Microneedling, and Other Treatments
PART FIVE: Putting It All Together: The Ageless Beauty Plan
CHAPTER 23: Supercharge Your Health with Supplements
CHAPTER 24: The Six-Week Plan to Live and Look Younger
CHAPTER 25: Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) and Myth-Busters
CHAPTER 26: Affirmations and Quotes
Thank You
References
About the Author
Foreword
Have you ever wondered: How do I get glowing skin? What can I do to look younger? How should I pick the best products and procedures for my skin? If you have had any of these questions, then this book is for you. It was carefully written to answer all of these questions and more — to teach you how to put your best face forward and have healthy, luminous skin. Beauty is an essential part of our human existence, and we are hardwired to recognize beauty. Part of beauty is having radiant and fresh skin that looks it best. In this book, you will learn how to get a glowing complexion at any age. You will learn the essential facts about skincare basics, regimens, and products. You will discover the vast array of cosmetic procedures available to enhance your skin and learn how to pick the right one. You will also learn about adjustments you can make to your lifestyle to help you be healthier and truly live and look younger.
In a world where there is so much skincare advice from self-made gurus, glossy magazines, social media influencers, and other voices, it is refreshing to have a skincare guide written by a dermatologist—true skin expert. The author, Kemunto Mokaya, MD/MHS— known by many as Dr. Kemmy—is a board-certified dermatologist. She trained at stellar institutions including Yale University, Harvard-affiliated hospitals, and the University of California in San Francisco. She has more than ten years of clinical experience practicing dermatology and caring for a myriad of patients from zero to 101 years of age. She is a personable and compassionate dermatologist who is loved and trusted by her patients.
Readers will find satisfaction in knowing that the information provided is based on scientific facts and a wealth of clinical experience. Dr. Kemmy is passionate about teaching and educating others and writes this book in a clear manner that is easy to follow. I am excited that Dr. Kemmy is giving the gift of this book to the world.
You might be wondering who I am and how I know Dr. Kemmy. Let me introduce myself. I am Dr. Vince Bertucci. I am a board-certified dermatologist with specialized training in dermatologic surgery and cosmetic procedures. I am affiliated with the University of Toronto in Canada. I love advancing dermatologic knowledge, and I have lectured and trained thousands of dermatologists in Canada, the United States, and around the world on many topics such as the nuanced administration of wrinkle-smoothing injectables and soft tissue fillers. I have also participated in many clinical research trials, published articles in peer-reviewed journals, and been on editorial boards of dermatologic journals. I am involved in dermatologic organizations in the United States and Canada, where I have had leadership roles. I am also the founder and medical director of Bertucci MedSpa, where my team and I provide comprehensive dermatologic, surgical, and cosmetic care.
I was honored when Dr. Kemmy asked me to write this foreword. I met her in August 2019 as part of the American Society of Dermatologic Surgery (ASDS) Future Leaders Network (FLN). This program is designed to enhance the leadership skills of early- and mid-career dermatologic surgeons, and it is awarded to few dermatologists. Dr. Kemmy was one of my mentees. It was rewarding to see her boost her leadership skills and design her FLN project, which aimed at highlighting board-certified dermatologists as the leading experts in skin health and beauty.
She worked hard to design a public relations campaign that showcased how dermatologists are researchers and innovators—and the physicians responsible for the effective, minimally invasive procedures that we love so much, like botulinum toxin, fillers, laser treatments, body sculpting procedures, and so on. Dermatologists are also at the forefront of developing skincare tools, medications for skin diseases, and products that enhance the skin. Dr. Kemmy also highlighted the extensive, unparalleled training of board-certified dermatologists that makes them the true skin experts.
It is refreshing to see Dr. Kemmy’s ongoing commitment to patient education through this book, which aims to enhance the skin health and well-being of its readers. I am impressed that she made the time to write it, especially since she is a mother of young children with many personal and professional commitments. She reports that she was able to get it done because of her dedication and passion. Dr. Kemmy has touched thousands of lives through her clinical work, public speaking, and other endeavors. It’s exciting that she is further expanding her reach with this book!
In Live and Look Younger: A Dermatologist’s Guide to Youthful Skin and Ageless Beauty, you have a road map that teaches you how to improve your skin from both the inside and the outside. This book is applicable to people from all generations: baby boomers, Gen Xers, millennials, centennials, and those who follow. We are living long, full lives, and what better way to cherish these years than by looking good and feeling great? Read this book more than once. Buy a copy for your friends. And then apply the principles within the book to help you achieve radiant skin and ageless beauty.
Dr. Kemmy, congratulations on this endeavor. May this be the beginning of even bigger and better things to come!
—Vince Bertucci, MD, FRCPC, FAAD
Preface
I looked in the mirror and could not recognize the person staring back at me. Forehead wrinkles, under-eye bags, smile lines, and mild skin discoloration. My reflection looked more like a grandmother than a mom who had just given birth to her third child a few weeks before. Three weeks of getting four to six hours of sleep with my colicky baby, six weeks of limited physical activity as I babied my C-section scar, and several months of eating anything and everything I wanted because I was eating for two
had wreaked havoc on my body and skin. I had morphed into an older version of myself. Who was this lady? This was not the confident, board-certified dermatologist educated at Yale, Harvard, and UCSF with beautiful skin and a glowing personality. I realized that something had to change in my life to reverse this premature aging. It had to change, pronto!
My reflection reminded me of the patients whom I have had the privilege to care for as a dermatologist for a decade. I was reminded of Sally in her late sixties, who was excited about her son’s upcoming wedding but was worried that she looked too old—especially compared to her future in-laws who were in their fifties. She wanted to tighten her softening jawline, eliminate her wrinkles, erase her age spots, and have a brighter complexion to look wonderful for the wedding. And I was reminded of Angela in her twenties, who wanted to optimize her skincare so that she would not age prematurely. Angela was spending close to a fifth of her paycheck on cosmetic products that were not delivering results. She already had subtle wrinkles on her skin and wanted Botox to correct them. Angela confessed that she was a smoker who had a stressful job. Another patient, Tyler, also came to mind. He was getting a promotion and suddenly needed to clean up his appearance so that he could look amazing for his upcoming press release. All of these patients wanted quick fixes to their problems and were willing to spend anything on products and procedures to reach their goals. I was able to meet their urgent needs, but I felt that I was doing them a disservice if I did not fix their foundational lifestyle problems. After all, everything in life goes back to the basics, and true beauty starts from the inside out. We therefore devised long-term plans that incorporated lifestyle changes like stricter sun protection, smoking cessation, stress control, better sleep, and enhanced diet. This led to more radiant, younger-looking versions of themselves.
Coming back to me, in front of the mirror with all my imperfections: I realized that I also had to pay more attention to my foundational lifestyle choices to enhance my appearance. No more excuses and covering up flaws with skincare products and makeup. No more shortcuts: I had to go back to the basics. As a physician and surgeon with special training in dermatology, I already knew the basics that I taught to my patients. But I wanted more. More knowledge. More scientific proof to ensure that my recommendations were really backed by science. More actionable steps and tools to motivate change.
With a little more extra time on my hands, I decided to delve more into the science of aging. I sought solutions to help me regain my beautiful skin and stave off the signs of passing time. I read many books and researched hundreds of scientific papers. I tried out DIY skincare regimens and new cosmetic products. I studied human psychology and what motivates lasting change. In the process, I became certified as a mindset coach. I decided to document things. The results of my efforts? This book that you’re reading. It is packed with assessments to help you see where you stand, hacks and tips to improve on what you are already doing, affirmations to motivate you, fun quotes, and action plans to give you progress and results. Physicians are teachers by nature. This book is my way to reach out and show you how I am reversing my signs of aging. I hope you’ll be motivated to join me on this journey as we optimize our skin and live and look younger!
Acknowledgments
I first want to thank God Almighty for giving me the ability, opportunity and strength to write this book. Without His sustenance, this book would have not been possible. I wrote the book to glorify God and serve people, and I am grateful for the many lives that will be enhanced through reading this book.
There are countless individuals I would like to acknowledge. First, my family. Moses Osoro—you are my best friend and a wonderful husband. Thank you for being my greatest supporter, for constantly challenging me to reach my goals, and for all the sacrifices you made to allow me to write this book. My children: Joshua, Michelle, and James. I love you a zillion times a zillion!
I am forever indebted to my parents and biggest cheerleaders, Lora and Stanley Mokaya. Thank you for your unconditional love and for the education, values, opportunities, and experiences that have shaped who I am today. My siblings: Momanyi, Moraa, and Nyakundi. I am a better person because of you. Moraa—you inspire me to fulfill my bucket-list items. My parents-in-law, Esther and James Nyarenchi: I appreciate your love and sacrifices. And to all my other family members who ground me, I am truly grateful for all your love and support!
Dr. Vince Bertucci, thank you for being an exemplary mentor and for writing this book’s foreword. I really appreciate my coach, Dr. Draion Burch. Thank you for encouraging me to write this book, for providing the tools to do it more effectively, and for your constant commitment to action. I am grateful for my Medical Moguls family. I am also truly grateful to the amazing team at Publish Your Gift for their dedication, passion, and patience. Thank you Tieshena Davis, Pavita Singh, Lisa Meskimen, Susan Morrison, Ty King, and the rest of the team.
Thanks to all the professors at Yale University and the Yale School of Medicine. I also acknowledge the physicians at Massachusetts General Hospital and the University of California, San Francisco. Thank you for the priceless education, great experiences, and invaluable knowledge you endowed on me.
I am indebted to the thousands of patients I have had the privilege to serve for almost a decade. Thank you for entrusting me with your care. I have become a better clinician, and my life has been enriched by you and the stories, experiences, and life moments you shared with me.
Finally, thank you, reader, for getting a copy of this book. I sincerely hope that the information within these pages will help you and millions of other people have healthier, younger-looking skin that glows and boosts your self-confidence.
Introduction
Three trash bags full of cosmetic products! We were moving from Tennessee to Texas, and in the process of cleaning out my bathroom cabinets and drawers, I filled three whole trash bags with products worth thousands of dollars. Some had never even been opened. Many had expired. Some were almost finished, others barely touched. They were of all sizes, colors, and smells. They offered promises of health, happiness, safety, acceptance, and beauty. Yet there they were, sitting in a useless pile. I must admit, I didn’t buy most of them. As a dermatologist, I am constantly being sent full-size versions of skincare products to try out so that I can recommend them to my patients, friends, and family members. I have a hard time going through these samples, and I find it overwhelming to keep up with what is out there since so many new cosmetic lines are being developed each year.
It’s a tough market out there if a board-certified dermatologist can’t keep up with what’s new, what’s good, and what’s just baseless hype. I can’t imagine how confusing it is for the average consumer. And because the beauty industry is not closely regulated by the United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA), anything goes in the cosmetic world. Many bold and big but empty claims are made, and consumers buy poor-quality products unknowingly. Others actually buy good products but have to throw them away because they are inappropriate for their skin type and skincare needs. Perhaps they bought the product because their best friend swore it was the best skincare product ever, or some convincing salesperson at the beauty counter swayed them to make the purchase. They eagerly acquired these products only to find out that they did not work, or even worse, these products irritated and worsened their skin. This book aims to help you make better purchasing decisions so that you do not waste money on products that are not right for you. It will also teach you what ingredients work and what trends are just fads.
As a dermatologist and a consumer, I know that choosing the right products for yourself will only get more confusing with time. Skincare, after all, is a multibillion-dollar industry. It is estimated that in 2020, the global market for cosmetic skincare was about $150 billion in US dollars.¹ The skincare industry is growing because people want and seek beauty. Whether we like it or not, beauty is a component of the human experience. Throughout the ages, human beings have striven to achieve beauty and a youthful appearance. Since our skin is the first thing people notice when they see us, we naturally desire beautiful, radiant skin and a glowing complexion.
Beauty is hardwired into our brains—studies have shown that even infants stare longer at attractive faces than faces judged to be less attractive.² There is societal incentive to look our best: beautiful people tend to be penalized less for mistakes—from shoplifting to cheating on exams.³ People also tend to respond positively and do favors for good-looking people without expecting rewards. Studies have shown that attractive people earn 12 percent more in wages compared to average-looking coworkers in the same workplace.⁴ It is understandable why the global cosmetic industry is worth almost a sixth of a trillion dollars each year, with projections that it will approach a quarter trillion dollars per year within the next decade.
With the push for beauty comes along the desire to look younger. No organ reveals that the body is aging as much as the skin does. Beauty has been associated with youth; there are so many antiaging products that promise to erase wrinkles, firm up the skin, and even out your complexion. Aging is an unavoidable part of our human existence, yet it is something that many people have come to fear. Perhaps we don’t want to look older because we fear the things that come with old age:
• Painful, stiff joints
• Less energy
• Failing memory
• Droopy, wrinkly skin with unsightly growths
• Overall declining health.
Perhaps we fear ageism, being discriminated against due to looking older. But the reality is that we are all getting older: every year, every month, every day, every hour, every minute, and every second. And we are living longer than ever before. The life expectancy in the United States is seventy-nine years, eighty-two years in Canada, and eighty-one years in the United Kingdom.⁵ We all want to live to a ripe old age, but we don’t want to live a long life just for the sake of clocking more years. We want the time to count and to be of high-quality. The ideal way to age is with energy, vitality, and in fit, healthy bodies with radiant skin.
What if I told you that you have the power to reverse the signs of aging in your skin and become that person who always looks vibrant? What if I told you that you have the capacity to regenerate your skin so that it is fresh and supple, regardless of your age? What if I told you that you could learn how to pick the right products for yourself so that you don’t end up with a counter full of useless cosmetic products representing wasted time, money, and resources? You don’t have to spend like a celebrity to glow and look your best. Armed with the knowledge in this book, you can choose the right products and procedures for yourself and learn how to adopt a lifestyle that will help you live and look younger.
In part one, we will go over the skincare basics. You will take a skin age quiz to learn if your skin looks older or younger than its actual age. You will also learn about the culprits that cause aging so that you can avoid them. This section also addresses skin conditions that affect us as time progresses—like skin cancers,