Frommer's Hawaii

By Jeanne Cooper and Natalie Schack

Frommer’s has amassed a loyal following of millions who have successfully used its guides for more than 60 years. Arthur and Pauline Frommer are a publicity-making machine.

Between writing syndicated newspaper columns, blogs, weekly radio shows and constant public appearances, Arthur writes introductions to many of the guides, while Pauline oversees the line as Editorial Director and author of the two best-selling guides to New York City.
Frommer’s authors are noted journalists, known for providing high-quality research and reliable, yet opinionated colorful reviews. Most of the authors live in the area they cover to ensure that the books lead travelers on the most authentic journeys possible. Because they are “embedded” in these locations, they also are able to turn up money-saving advice, for travel in all price ranges that many other guidebook series miss.

Reviews include websites,closest public transportation, hours and exact pricing
Most books feature a detachable map
All new Frommer guidebooks are set in 10 pt. type, larger than most other guides
Frommers.com is consistently named one of the top 10 travel sites and has over 14 million page views monthly.
The guides are featured and link to key retailers and IndieBound for fulfillment.

• Language: English
• Publisher: FrommerMedia
• Release date: Apr 12, 2022
• ISBN: 9781628875089

Jeanne Cooper

Jeanne Cooper has earned the love of soap-opera fans for her long-running role as Katherine Chancellor on CBS's The Young and the Restless. She received back-to-back Daytime Emmy Award nominations as Outstanding Leading Actress in a Drama Series in 1989, 1990, and 1991. In 1993, she was awarded a star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame, in recognition of her many years in show business.

Book preview

Snorkeling in Hanauma Bay on Oahu

There’s no place on earth quite like this handful of sun-drenched Pacific islands. Here you’ll find palm-fringed blue lagoons, lush rainforests, cascading waterfalls, soaring summits (some capped with snow), a live volcano, and beaches of every hue: gold, white, black, and even green. Roadside stands offer fruits and flowers for a few dollars, and award-winning chefs deliver unforgettable feasts. Each of the six main islands possesses its own unique mix of natural and cultural treasures—and the possibilities for adventure, indulgence, and relaxation are endless.

The best Beaches

Lanikai Beach (Oahu): Too gorgeous to be real, this stretch along the Windward Coast is one of Hawaii’s postcard-perfect beaches—a mile of golden sand as soft as powdered sugar bordering translucent turquoise waters. The waters are calm year-round and excellent for swimming, snorkeling, and kayaking. Two tiny offshore islands complete the picture, functioning both as scenic backdrops and bird sanctuaries. See p. 108.

Hiking on the Waihee Ridge Trail on Maui

Hapuna Beach (Big Island): A half-mile of tawny sand, as wide as a football field, gently slopes down to crystalline waters that in summer are usually excellent for swimming, snorkeling, and bodysurfing; in winter, the thundering waves should be admired from the shore, where the picnicking and state camping facilities are first rate. See p. 219.

Keawakapu Beach (Maui): On the border between bustling Kihei and opulent Wailea but hidden from the road, lies this typically uncrowded, soft, golden strand, nearly three-quarters of a mile long. Intriguing tidepools await at the northern end and snorkeling sites in clear waters at the southern end; restaurants and beach gear rental options are close at hand without disturbing the serenity. The views are stellar, especially at sunset, and weekday parking is usually easy. See p. 326.

Do the Right Thing: pono pledges

It used to be enough for visitors to learn the meaning of aloha (love, hello, goodbye) and mahalo (thank you) before coming to Hawaii. The Disney movie Lilo and Stitch also taught many people that ‘ohana means family (and family means no one gets left behind). Now local authorities are trying to persuade visitors to behave as if they are indeed family, meaning everyone has a kuleana (responsibility) to act pono (righteously)—not only for their safety, but so that residents will continue to share aloha with visitors, whose post-pandemic numbers are expected to come close to the record 10 million in 2019.

Most suggestions sound like common sense: Don’t trespass, don’t litter, don’t go out in unsafe water or hike unprepared, don’t take anything but pictures from the natural landscape, avoid unpermitted vacation rentals (there are plenty that do have permits), etc. Sadly, these reminders appear necessary, due to a combination of vacation brain, where excitement about being in a dazzling new environment can cloud judgment (hey, it happens to the best of us), and widespread encouragement of risky or illegal behavior on social media. Just because someone on TripAdvisor was able to swim at a place where people drown every year does not mean you will be immune from harm; just because your unpermitted vacation rental on Airbnb has operated for years does not mean authorities won’t shut it down before you arrive.

So in late 2019, visitors who checked their Facebook or Instagram feeds on the islands began seeing short Kuleana Campaign videos, with leading cultural and environmental experts explaining how to be safe and pono while traveling in Hawaii. Hawaii Island tourism officials launched the Pono Pledge (www.ponopledge.com), with principles applying to all the islands: I will mindfully seek wonder, but not wander where I do not belong…I will not defy death for breathtaking photos…I will malama (care for) land and sea, and admire wildlife only from far. In 2021, state tourism authorities began Malama Hawaii, encouraging visitors to participate in environmental and cultural activities with the incentive of an additional hotel night or other perks.

Responsible tour operators, including Fair Wind (Big Island, p. 226) and Holo Holo Charters (Kauai, p. 533) also formally ask participants to model pono behavior, such as using only mineral-based sunscreen (to avoid reef damage), not touching or standing on coral (which is easily damaged and takes decades to grow), and recognizing one’s physical limits.

One of the most important suggestions of Hawaii Island’s Pono Pledge, which now has similar versions for Maui and Kauai, is also the simplest to follow: I will embrace the islands’ aloha spirit, as it embraces me. Showing patience, kindness, and respect for Hawaii’s diverse people and their unique home will go a long way in making your vacation a safe and happy one.

Juggling fire at a luau on Maui

Papohaku Beach (Molokai): The currents are too strong for swimming here, especially in winter’s pounding surf, but the light-blond strand of sand, nearly 300 feet wide and stretching for some 3 miles—one of Hawaii’s longest beaches—is great for picnicking, walking, and watching sunsets, with Oahu shimmering in the distance. See p. 442.

Hulopoe Beach (Lanai): This large sprawl of soft golden sand is one of the prettiest in the state. Bordered by the regal Four Seasons resort on one side and lava-rock tide pools on the other, this protected marine preserve offers prime swimming and snorkeling (in calm conditions), tide-pool exploring, picnicking, camping, and the chance to spy on resident spinner dolphins. See p. 471.

Kee Beach (Kauai): Now that visitors need a parking permit or shuttle reservation to access this North Shore beach at the end of the road, its beautiful crescent of sand bracketed by forest and steep green cliffs can be enjoyed in relative tranquility. In summer, conditions are often ideal for snorkeling on the teeming reef, but check with lifeguards here before venturing out, especially in winter. See p. 527.

Poipu Beach (Kauai): This popular beach on the sunny South Shore has something for everyone: protected swimming, snorkeling, bodyboarding, surfing, and plenty of sand for basking—and every so often, an endangered Hawaiian monk seal to admire from a distance. See p. 530.

The best Authentic Experiences

Eat Local: People in Hawaii love food. Want to get a local talking? Ask for her favorite place to get poke or saimin or shave ice. The islands offer excellent fine-dining opportunities (see the examples below), but they also have plenty of respectable hole-in-the-wall joints and beloved institutions that have hung around for half a century. On Oahu, eat poke at Ono Seafood (p. 145), enjoy true Hawaiian food at Helena’s Hawaiian Food (p. 150), and join the regulars at Liliha Bakery (p. 150) for a loco moco, coco puff, or poi mochi doughnut. On Kauai, slurp saimin and shave ice at Hamura’s Saimin Stand (p. 577).

Feel History Come Alive at Pearl Harbor (Oahu): On December 7, 1941, Japanese warplanes bombed Pearl Harbor, forcing the United States to enter World War II. Standing on the deck of the USS Arizona Memorial—the eternal tomb for the 1,177 sailors trapped below when the battleship sank—is a profound experience. You can also visit the USS Missouri Memorial, where the Japanese signed their surrender on September 2, 1945. See p. 80.

Experience Hula: Each year the city of Hilo on the Big Island hosts a prestigious competition celebrating ancient Hawaiian dance: the Merrie Monarch Festival (p. 177), held the week after Easter. On Molokai, reverent dancers celebrate the birth of hula during the 3-day Ka Hula Piko festival (p. 457) held in late spring. Year-round, local halau (hula troupes) perform free shows at several shopping centers. On Oahu, head to the Halekulani’s House Without a Key (p. 166), where the sunset functions as a beautiful backdrop to equally beautiful hula. On Maui, the Old Lahaina Luau (p. 424) is the real deal, showcasing Hawaiian dance and storytelling nightly on a gracious, beachfront stage.

Ponder Petroglyphs: More than 23,000 ancient rock carvings decorate the lava fields at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (p. 206) on the Big Island. You can see hundreds more on a short hike through the Puako Petroglyph Archaeological Preserve (p. 191), near the Fairmont Orchid on the Kohala Coast. Go early in the morning or late afternoon when the angle of the sun lets you see the forms clearly. On Lanai, fantastic birdmen and canoes are etched into rocks at Luahiwa (p. 469), Shipwreck Beach (p. 472), and Kaunolu Village (p. 467).

Restore the Land: Join the regenerative tourism movement and connect with ancient Hawaiian stewardship practices by helping restore its native forests. Healthy dryland forests not only support native birds, but also help keep the coral reefs below them free from damaging runoff. On Maui, volunteer with Kipuka Olowalu in Olowalu Valley (p. 341) or Leeward Haleakala Watershed Restoration Partnership (p. 341). On Hawaii Island, take a monthly sunset guided hike in the Waikoloa Dry Forest (p. 192); plant a koa seedling or collect aalii seeds on a UTV tour with Uluhao O Hualalai (p. 212); or plant koa, milo, or sandalwood atop Mauna Kea with Hawaiian Legacy Tours (p. 212), which also offers tree-planting tours on Oahu.

The best Outdoor Adventures

Surfing on Oahu: Whether you’re learning to surf or you’re a pro, Oahu has waves for everyone. Few experiences are more exhilarating than standing on your first wave, and Waikiki offers lessons, board rentals, and gentle surf. During the winter, the North Shore gets big and rough, so stay out of the water if you’re not an experienced surfer. But even the view from the beach, watching the daredevils take off on waves twice their height, is thrilling. See p. 115.

Waimea Canyon, Kauai

Witness the Whales: From December to April, humpback whales cruise Hawaiian waters. You can see these gentle giants from almost any shore; simply scan the horizon for a spout. Hear them, too, by ducking your head below the surface and listening for their otherworldly music. Boats on every island offer whale-watching cruises, but Maui is your best bet for seeing the massive marine mammals up close. Try Trilogy (p. 332) for a first-class catamaran ride, Redline Rafting (p. 340) for a zippy excursion on a 35-foot canopied raft or, if you’re adventurous, climb into an outrigger canoe with Hawaiian Paddle Sports (p. 335).

Visit Volcanoes: The entire island chain is made of volcanoes; don’t miss the opportunity to explore them. On Oahu, the whole family can hike to the top of ancient, world-famous Diamond Head Crater (p. 115). At Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (p. 243) on the Big Island, where Kilauea erupted continuously between 1983 and 2018, and resumed for 6 months starting in late 2020. Hills of black cinders and billowing sulfurous steam give hints of Pele’s presence even when red-hot lava isn’t visible. On Maui, Haleakala National Park (p. 307) provides a bird’s-eye view into a long-dormant volcanic crater.

Get Misted by Waterfalls: Waterfalls thundering down into sparkling pools are some of Hawaii’s most beautiful natural wonders. If you’re on the Big Island, head to the spectacular 442-foot Akaka Falls (p. 195), north of Hilo. On Maui, the Road to Hana offers numerous viewing opportunities. Kauai is laced with waterfalls, especially along the North Shore and in the Wailua area, where you can drive right up to the 151-foot Opaekaa Falls (p. 507) and the 80-foot Wailua Falls (p. 508). On Molokai, the 250-foot Mooula Falls (p. 432) can be visited only via a guided hike through breathtaking Halawa Valley, but that, too, is a very special experience.

Peer into Waimea Canyon (Kauai): It may not share the vast dimensions of Arizona’s Grand Canyon, but Kauai’s colorful gorge—a mile wide, 3,600 feet deep, and 14 miles long—has a grandeur all its own, easily viewed from several overlooks just off Kokee Road. Hike to Waipoo Falls (p. 549) to experience its red parapets up close, or take one of the helicopter rides that swoop between its walls like the white-tailed tropicbird. See p. 521.

Explore the Napali Coast (Kauai): With the exception of the Kalalau Valley Overlook (p. 547), the fluted ridges and deep, primeval valleys of the island’s northwest portion can’t be viewed by car. You must hike the 11-mile Kalalau Trail (p. 547), kayak (p. 503), take a snorkel cruise (p. 537), or book a helicopter ride (p. 521) to experience its wild, stunning beauty.

Four-Wheel It on Lanai (Lanai): Off-roading is a way of life on barely paved Lanai. Rugged trails lead to deserted beaches, abandoned villages, sacred sites, and valleys filled with wild game. Afraid to drive yourself? Rabaca’s Limousine Service and Island Tours (p. 463) will take you to remote areas in comfortable vehicles with friendly guides.

The welcoming Lei

A lei is aloha turned tangible, communicating hello, goodbye, congratulations, and I love you in a single strand of fragrant flowers. Leis are the perfect symbol for the islands: Their fragrance and beauty are enjoyed in the moment, but the aloha they embody lasts long after they’ve faded.

Traditionally, Hawaiians made leis out of flowers, shells, ferns, leaves, nuts, and even seaweed. Some were twisted, some braided, and some strung. Then, as now, they were worn to commemorate special occasions, honor a loved one, or complement a hula dancer’s costume. Leis are available at most of the islands’ airports, from florists, and even at supermarkets and drugstores. You can find wonderful, inexpensive leis at the half-dozen lei shops on Maunakea Street in Honolulu’s

Chinatown and at Castillo Orchids (  808/329-6070), 73-4310 Laui St., off Kaiminani Drive in the Kona Palisades subdivision, across from the Kona Airport on the Big Island. You can also arrange in advance to have a lei-greeter meet you as you deplane. Greeters of Hawaii (www.greetersofhawaii.com;  800/366-8559) serves the major airports on Oahu, Maui, Kauai, and the Big Island. On Molokai, you can sew your own at Molokai Plumerias (p. 433).

The best Hotels

Halekulani (Oahu): When price is no object, this is really the only place to stay. A place of zen amid the buzz, this recently renovated beach hotel is the finest Waikiki has to offer. Even if you don’t stay here, pop by for a sunset mai tai at House Without a Key (p. 166) to hear live Hawaiian music while a lovely hula dancer sways to the music. See p. 126.

Royal Hawaiian (Oahu): This pink oasis, hidden away among blooming gardens within the concrete jungle of Waikiki, is a stunner. It’s vibrant and exotic, from the Spanish-Moorish arches in the common areas to the pink-and-gold pineapple wallpaper in the Historic Wing’s guest rooms. See p. 129.

Kahala Hotel & Resort (Oahu): Situated in one of Oahu’s most prestigious residential areas, the Kahala provides the peace and serenity of a neighbor-island vacation, but with the conveniences of Waikiki just a 10-minute drive away. The lush, tropical grounds include an 800-foot, crescent-shaped beach and a 26,000-square-foot lagoon (home to two bottlenose dolphins, sea turtles, and tropical fish). See p. 134.

Four Seasons Resort Hualalai (Big Island): The seven pools alone will put you in seventh heaven at this exclusive yet environmentally conscious oasis of understated luxury, which also offers a private, 18-hole golf course, an award-winning spa, exquisite dining (including shellfish and sea salt harvested onsite), and impeccable service—with no resort fee. See p. 252.

Westin Hapuna Beach Resort (Big Island): This hidden gem on the Kohala Coast boasts huge rooms, an enormous beach, as well as a large family pool with separate adult infinity-edge pool, a sparkling lobby and several high-quality dining outlets, plus Westin’s luxurious beds and showers. Also consider its gorgeous but pricier sister hotel, the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel (p. 256), part of Marriott’s Autograph Collection but independently owned, with a spectacular golf course and beach whose waters are visited nightly by manta rays. See p. 259.

Villas at the Fairmont Kea Lani.

Mauna Lani, Auberge Resorts Collection (Big Island): This luxurious oceanfront oasis in the piko (navel) of the island is rich with lush vegetation and subtle Hawaiian-themed art and handsome woods that complement the extensive menu of cultural activities. Near historic fishponds and beaches favored by turtles lie a serene adults pool, matching family pool, and top-notch restaurants, including dinner-only CanoeHouse and island-casual HaLani, worth a special trip for breakfast. See p. 257.

Fairmont Kea Lani (Maui): This Wailea resort offers a quiet beachfront locale, massive suites and residential-sized villas, a plethora of pools, an expert spa with thoughtful wellness program, and excellent dining, from the fresh poke bowls in the marketplace to the gourmet take on plantation fare at Ko (p. 405). Sunsets are mesmerizing, especially when accompanied by an artisan cocktail in the resort’s Luana Lounge. See p. 373.

The Plantation Inn (Maui): Close to the action on Lahaina’s Front Street, but discreetly located on a quiet side street, this charming, adults-only bed-and-breakfast is perfect for a romantic getaway. Lounge by the spacious pool, where made-to-order breakfast is served, and savor the exquisite French cuisine at onsite Gerard’s restaurant, where guests receive an ample discount. Bonus: Parking is free, and there’s no resort fee. See p. 354.

Kaanapali Beach Hotel (Maui): Long hailed as the state’s most Hawaiian hotel, this still relatively affordable hotel became even more deeply rooted in native culture after major renovations in 2020-21. Exquisite staff-made cultural treasures like carved wooden fishhooks adorn newly chic rooms, while HuiHui restaurant (p. 397) offers destination dining suffused in Polynesian voyaging lore. A dedicated water activity team shares cultural and environmental knowledge while emphasizing safety. See p. 359

Four Seasons Resort Lanai (Lanai): This gracious resort on Lanai’s south coast overlooks Hulopoe Beach—one of the finest stretches of sand in the state. Guest rooms are palatial, outfitted with museum-quality art and automated everything—from temperature, lighting, and sound system to bidet toilets. The suites have deep soaking Japanese cedar tubs, and views that stretch for an eternity. The restaurants and service throughout the resort are impeccable. See p. 479.

Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa (Kauai): At this sprawling, family-embracing resort in Poipu, the elaborate, multi-tiered fantasy pool and saltwater lagoon more than compensate for the rough waters of Keoneloa (Shipwrecks) Beach. Don’t fret: Calmer Poipu Beach is just a short drive away. Anara Spa and Poipu Bay Golf Course offer excellent adult diversions, too. See p. 564.

Koloa Landing Resort at Poipu (Kauai): Families come here in droves, thanks to spacious, apartment-style villas with washer-dryers and high-end kitchen appliances, large lawns for games, firepits with s’mores service, and three pools, including a sprawling, multi-level main pool with lava-tube slide. But couples can stash themselves here, too, enjoying the tranquil, adults-only pool, in-house spa, and innovative island dining at poolside Holoholo Grill. See p. 566.

Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa

Sheraton Kauai Coconut Beach Resort (Kauai): Millions of dollars poured into the stylish remodel and rebranding of this once-budget hotel on Makaiwa Beach in Kapaa, which now features a mix of mid-century modern and contemporary Hawaiian decor and firepits around a large, beachfront pool. The locale is ultra-convenient to kayaking and hiking adventures, shopping, and plentiful dining options, but guests would be remiss if they didn’t linger in house for first-rate dining, drinking, and luau options. See p. 558.

The best Restaurants

Sushi Izakaya Gaku (Oahu): The city is dotted with izakayas, Japanese pubs serving small plates made for sharing, and this gem is the best of them all. You’ll discover life beyond maguro and hamachi nigiri with seasonal, uncommon seafood, such as sea bass sashimi and grilled ray. Thanks to the large population of Japanese nationals living in Honolulu, the Japanese food here is some of the best outside of Japan. But it’s not just straight-from-Tokyo fare at Gaku; the chefs here scour fish markets daily for the best local fish. See p. 152.

The Pig and the Lady (Oahu): This casual restaurant, with its traditional Vietnamese noodle soups and playful interpretations of Southeast Asian food, is both soulful and surprising. The soulful: the pho of the day, drawing on recipes from Chef Andrew Le’s mother. The surprising: hand-cut pasta with pork and lilikoi (passion fruit). The best of both worlds: a pho French dip banh mi, with slices of tender brisket and a cup of pho broth for dipping. See p. 149.

Huihui Restaurant (Maui): Tom Muromoto, executive chef of Kaanapali Beach Hotel for many years, dug deep into Hawaiian roots and came up with an impressively creative harvest of unique dishes for the hotel’s stunning new beachfront restaurant, opened in June 2021. Ingredients like luau (young taro tops), octopus, smoked venison (using Maui County’s invasive deer), and of course fresh seafood appear in inventive forms well matched by the farm-fresh craft cocktail list. The interior’s nautical theme reflects the restaurant’s dual use as an ocean voyaging academy for island youth. See p. 397.

Mama’s Fish House (Maui): Overlooking Kuau Cove on Maui’s North Shore, this restaurant is a South Pacific fantasy. Every nook is decorated with some fanciful artifact of salt-kissed adventure. The menu lists the anglers who reeled in the day’s catch; you can order ono caught by Keith Nakamura along the 40-fathom ledge near Hana or deep-water ahi seared with coconut and lime. The Tahitian Pearl dessert is almost too stunning to eat. See p. 413.

Lineage (Maui): Top Chef fan favorite Sheldon Simeon launched his Hilo-inspired dinner restaurant in the Shops at Wailea in 2018, then passed the reins in early 2020 to his talented chef de cuisine, MiJin Kang Toride. She kept the concept of small plates and share plates, locally sourced and mostly Asian in origin, although with her own inventive tweaks in dishes such as black sesame hummus, charred octopus with crushed local potato, and gochujang-glazed Korean fried chicken. See p. 406.

Merriman’s (Honolulu; Waimea, Big Island; and Kapalua, Maui): Chef Peter Merriman, one of the founders of Hawaii Regional Cuisine, oversees a locally inspired culinary empire that also includes Merriman’s Fish House on Kauai (p. 584), Monkeypod Kitchen (p. 408) and Moku outlets on Maui (p. 393) and Oahu (p. 159 and 147), as well as the Beach House on Kauai (p. 582), famed for sunset photo ops. His original Waimea restaurant, opened in 1988, still merits the drive upcountry from the coast (p. 275), while the menu at his Kapalua, Maui, outpost (p. 401) almost matches the breathtaking views from the ocean point.

Dining on the terrace of Merriman’s Kapalua Maui

Umekes (Kailua-Kona, Big Island): The island specialty of diced raw, marinated seafood poke—pronounced po-kay—comes in many varieties and is available for carry-out at Umekes Fishmarket Bar and Grill, which also has a handsome sit-down dining area with a full bar (p. 268).

Pueo’s Osteria (Waikoloa, Big Island): Former Four Seasons Hualalai chef James Babian takes inspiration from Tuscany and, as much as he can, uses ingredients from local farmers and fishermen, creating remarkably fresh, well-priced cuisine paired with an intriguing wine list. Another reason to drive 15 minutes up the mountain: A thoughtfully crafted bar menu is served nightly. See p. 273.

Ama and Bar Acuda (Hanalei, Kauai): When the sun goes down, the surfing set freshens up for a night on the town at Bar Acuda, a stylish tapas bar (p. 578). Created by Jim Moffat, a former star of San Francisco’s culinary scene, Bar Acuda’s fare is centered around fresh seafood and seasonal pairings inspired by Mediterranean cuisine. The Asian-style noodles and mountain views at Moffat’s open-air Ama (p. 578), in the same quaint shopping center, are also impressive.

Red Salt (Poipu, Kauai): Hidden inside the jewel box of boutique hotel Koa Kea is this equally brilliant dining room, where local seafood and produce shine under executive chef Noelani Planas, who trained with Joël Robuchon and Michael Mina. The evening sushi bar, expected to return post-pandemic, and tropical breakfasts are also first-rate. See p. 585.

Eating House 1849 (Poipu, Kauai): Hawaii Regional Cuisine co-founder Roy Yamaguchi closed the long-lived Garden Island outpost of his signature Roy’s brand to open this more casual, plantation-themed restaurant in the open-air Shops at Kukuiula. Returning to his island roots with hearty small plates and family-style dishes made it an instant success, now replicated at two Oahu locations. See p. 582.

Nobu Lanai (Lanai): Celebrity chef Nobu Matsuhisa now has two restaurants on the tiny island of Lanai—compared with just one in Manhattan, Milan, Malibu, and Mexico City, among other urban settings. But since his Sensei by Nobu is generally restricted only to guests at the all-inclusive, ultra-pricey Four Seasons Hotel Lanai at Koele, a Sensei Retreat (p. 479), it’s easier, cheaper, and frankly more fun to indulge in classic Nobu dishes such as miso cod and yellowtail tuna sashimi with jalapeño at Nobu Lanai, inside the oceanfront Four Seasons Resort Lanai (p. 479). Each dish is as delicious as it is artful. See p. 482.

The best of Hawaii for Kids

Aulani, a Disney Resort & Spa, Ko Olina, Hawaii (Oahu): Disney built this high-rise hotel and spa (with timeshare condos) on 21 acres on the beach, about an hour’s drive from Waikiki. It’s a great destination for families, with a full children’s program, plus areas and activities for teens and tweens. Mickey, Minnie, and other Disney characters walk the resort and stop to take photos with kids. See p. 136.

Explore Polynesian Culture (Oahu): Experience the songs, dance, and costumes of six Pacific Island nations and archipelagos at the Disneyland version of Polynesia. There are plenty of activities to engage kids, such as spear-throwing competitions and Maori games that test hand-eye coordination, plus family-friendly evening shows and luaus. See p. 98.

Walk Under Water (Maui): Don’t wait for a rainy day to visit the Maui Ocean Center, which will keep all ages enthralled with its displays, including a brilliant garden of living coral and a 750,000-gallon tank filled with sharks, rays, and reef fish that you can ogle from the safety of a 53-foot acrylic tunnel. See p. 304.

Disney Aulani Resort on Oahu

Snorkel in Kealakekua Bay (Big Island): Everyone can enjoy the dazzling display of marine life here on a Fair Wind cruise (www.fair-wind.com;  800/677-9461 or 808/322-2788), which offers inner tubes and underwater viewing boxes for little ones (or older ones) who don’t want to get their faces wet. Two water slides and a spacious boat with a friendly crew add to the fun. See p. 226.

Traditional Hawaiian dance at the Polynesian Cultural Center

Play at Lydgate Park (Kauai): If kids tire of snorkeling in the protected swimming area of Lydgate Beach, a giant wooden fantasy play structure and bridge to the dunes await, along with grassy fields and several miles of biking trails. See p. 506.

Ride a Sugarcane Train (Kauai): At Kilohana Plantation, families can enjoy an inexpensive, narrated train ride through fields, forest, and orchards, and stop to feed goats and wild pigs. See p. 505.

Lei flower necklace

For most people, the fetching dollops of land in the middle of the Pacific Ocean are a dream destination—but getting to this remote region can seem daunting. So once you finally arrive, you’ll want to make the most of your time. In this chapter we’ve built six 1-week itineraries for Oahu, Hawaii Island, Maui, Molokai, Lanai, and Kauai, each designed to hit the highlights and provide a revealing window into the real Hawaii.

You can follow these itineraries to the letter or use them to build your own personalized trip. Whatever you do, don’t max out your days. This is Hawaii, after all—save time to smell the perfume of plumeria, listen to wind rustling through a bamboo forest, and feel the caress of the Pacific.

A Week on Oahu

Oahu is so stunning that the ali’i, the kings of Hawaii, made it the capital of the island nation. Below, we presume that you’ll be staying in Honolulu, which makes a good base for the rest of the island. Plus, it has the best dining options and a cosmopolitan liveliness unavailable anywhere else in the islands. If you prefer quieter nights, though, opt for a vacation rental in Kailua or on the North Shore and factor into the following itinerary extra time for traveling.

Day 1: arrive & hit Waikiki Beach

Unwind from your plane ride with a little sun and sand. Take a dip in the ocean at the most famous beach in the world: Waikiki Beach (p. 104). Catch the sunset with a mai tai, Hawaiian music, and some of the loveliest hula you’ll ever see at House Without a Key (p. 166).

Day 2: surf in Waikiki & visit Pearl Harbor

Waikiki Beach

Thanks to jet lag, you’ll be up early, so take advantage with an early morning surf session, aka dawn patrol, when the waves are smooth and glassy. Waikiki has great waves for learning, and a surf lesson (p. 115) will have you riding the waves in no time. The poke at Ono Seafood (p. 145) makes a great post-surf meal, and then you’ll want to refresh yourself with a lychee-mango-pineapple shave ice drizzled with lilikoi cream at Waiola Shave Ice (p. 144). In the afternoon, head to the USS Arizona Memorial at Pearl Harbor (p. 80), site of the infamous 1941 attack. For dinner, go local and dine at Highway Inn (p. 146) for kalua pig, laulau, pipikaula, and poi.

Day 3: explore the North Shore

Grab a fried malasada (holeless doughnut) dipped in sugar at Leonard’s Bakery (p. 144) before heading to the North Shore (see Central Oahu & the North Shore, on p. 99). Stop in the quaint town of Haleiwa for a pineapple-lilikoi-mango treat at Matsumoto Shave Ice (p. 99), and grab a picnic lunch from Beet Box Café (p. 157). Pick one of the gorgeous North Shore beaches for a day of swimming and sunbathing. Waimea Beach Park (p. 109) is a favorite, no matter the season. In winter, if the waves are pumping and conditions are right, head to Pipeline (p. 102) and watch pro surfers ride this tube-like wave over a razor-sharp reef. Still daylight? Take the longer coastal road back into Honolulu.

Day 4: snorkel in Hanauma Bay & hike the Makapuu Lighthouse Trail

Get up early and grab some freshly baked morning pastries or a local-style breakfast at Diamond Head Market & Grill (p. 154) before heading to Hanauma Bay (p. 106) for snorkeling. If you’re a strong swimmer and the water is calm (check with the lifeguard), head out past the reef and away from the crowds, where the water’s clearer and you’ll see more fish and the occasional turtle. Continue beach-hopping down the coastline—watch bodysurfing daredevils at Sandy Beach (p. 107). Hike the easy Makapuu Lighthouse (p. 117) trail, with views to Molokai and Lanai on a clear day. In winter, you may even see migrating humpback whales. Take the Pali Highway home to Honolulu—and be sure to stop at the Nuuanu Pali Lookout (p. 86). For a night out, head to Chinatown, where a slew of new restaurants have opened: Start with a cocktail in the rooftop courtyard at Tchin Tchin! (p. 167) and move on to dinner at Senia (p. 149).

Day 5: glimpse historic Honolulu & experience Hawaiian culture

Fuel up at Koko Head Café (p. 154), an island-style brunch spot, before heading to downtown Honolulu to see the city’s historic sites, including the Iolani Palace (p. 79). Lunch at The Pig and the Lady (p. 149) for modern Vietnamese food, pick up some tropical fruit at one of the many Chinatown vendors, and browse the new boutiques started by Hawaii’s young creatives (p. 159). Spend the afternoon at the Bishop Museum (p. 74) to immerse yourself in Hawaiian culture, then head up to Puu Ualakaa State Park (p. 86) to watch the sunset over Honolulu. For dinner, get a taste of Honolulu’s spectacular Japanese cuisine at Sushi Izakaya Gaku (p. 152).

Day 6: relax at Kailua Beach

On your last full day on Oahu, travel over the Pali Highway to the windward side of the island. Dig into a stack of lilikoi (passion fruit) pancakes at Moke’s Bread and Breakfast (p. 155) and then spend the rest of the day at Kailua Beach (p. 108). It’s the perfect beach to kayak or stand-up paddle to the Mokulua Islands (or, as the locals call it, the Mokes) or simply relax. For your last dinner, dig into a feast of small plates at Mud Hen Water (p. 153), which features a creative menu of uniquely Hawaii flavors in modern, clever ways.

Day 7: stroll through Lyon Arboretum

Head to the University of Hawaii’s Lyon Arboretum (p. 84) in the back of lush Manoa Valley for a magical day of exploring this park-like botanical garden’s tropical groves laden with exotic, fiery blooms. Don’t forget to make reservations as far in advance as possible! Then, take one last look at Diamond Head and Waikiki . . . from the ocean, aboard the Holokai Catamaran (p. 110).

Iolani Palace

A Week on the Big Island of Hawaii

Because of the distances involved, a week is barely enough time to see the entire Big Island; it’s best to plan for 2 weeks—or even better, a return visit. Here’s how to see the highlights, changing hotels as you go.

Day 1: arrive & amble through Kailua-Kona and coffee country

Since most flights arrive at lunchtime or later, check into your Kona Coast lodgings and go for a stroll through historic Kailua-Kona by Hulihee Palace (p. 182) and Mokuaikaua Church (p. 185). Wear sandals so you can dip your feet in one of the pocket coves, such as Kamakahonu Bay, within sight of Kamehameha’s historic compound. Or perk yourself up by touring a Kona coffee farm (p. 184) and sampling the wares. Enjoy a sunset dinner at an oceanview restaurant, but don’t unpack—you’ll be on the road early the next day.

Day 2: take a morning sail & afternoon drive

Waipio Valley Lookout

The day starts with a morning snorkel tour (plus breakfast and lunch) aboard the Fair Wind II (p. 226), sailing to the historic preserve of Kealakekua Bay. After returning to Keauhou Bay, head to Puuhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park (p. 188) for a brisk walk around the historic seaside compound before continuing on to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (p. 206). Suggested pit stops en route: Kau Coffee Mill (p. 210) in Pahala or Punaluu Bake Shop in Naalehu (p. 279) for a pick-me-up coffee or pastry, and nearby Punaluu Beach Park (p. 223) for a black-sand photo op, possibly with basking turtles. Check into lodgings in Volcano Village (p. 264) or Volcano House (p. 265), where you may dine overlooking Kilauea’s Halemaumau Crater, vastly expanded by the 2018 eruption.

Day 3: explore an active volcano

Stop at the national park’s Kilauea Visitor Center to learn about current lava flows (if any), the day’s free ranger-led walks, and the transformation of the park after the upheaval of thousands of small earthquakes during the 2018 eruption. Walk to the still-puffing steam vents and the yellowy, sour-smelling Sulphur Banks (p. 208) Bicycle or drive Crater Rim Road past Halemaumau Crater (p. 207) to Nahuku/Thurston Lava Tube (p. 208) and Devastation Trail (p. 208), before heading down Chain of Craters Road, leading to a vast petroglyph field, sea arch and repeated lava flows that smothered parts of the coastal road.

Day 4: tour Old Hawaii

It’s just a 45-minute drive from Volcano to Hilo (p. 199), so after breakfast go to Imiloa: Astronomy Center of Hawaii (p. 202), opening at 9am. Then explore Banyan Drive (p. 199), Liliuokalani Gardens (p. 199), and one of Hilo’s small but intriguing museums, such as the free Mokupapapa Discovery Center, focused on the natural and cultural history of the remote Northwest Hawaiian Islands (p. 203). Stroll through the Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden (p. 196) before driving along the pastoral Hamakua Coast (p. 195), stopping in Honomu for a short walk to breathtaking Akaka Falls (p. 195) and the similarly stunning Waipio Valley Lookout (p. 197). Dine on farm-fresh cuisine in Waimea (p. 275) before checking into a Kohala Coast hotel (p. 255).

Day 5: explore the Historic Kohala Coast

Start by visiting Puukohola Heiau National Historic Site (p. 191), the massive temple Kamehameha built to the war god, Ku; it also looks impressive aboard a Hawaiian sailing canoe while on a snorkeling tour with Hawaiian Sails (p. 228). Continue north on Hwy. 270 to Lapakahi State Historical Park (p. 175) to see the outlines of a 14th-century Hawaiian village, and have lunch in Hawi or Kapaau; the latter is home of the original King Kamehameha Statue (p. 189). The final northbound stop is the picturesque Pololu Valley Lookout (p. 190). Heading south in the late afternoon, make the short hike to the Puako Petroglyph Archaeological Preserve (p. 191). To learn more Hawaiian lore, book one of Kohala’s evening luaus (p. 285).

Pololu Valley Lookout

Day 6: soak up the sand, sea & stars

You’ve earned a morning at the beach, and the Big Island’s prettiest beaches are on the Kohala Coast: Anaehoomalu Bay (A-Bay), Hapuna, and Kaunaoa (see Beaches, p. 214). Skip the scuba, though, because—if circumstances allow—in the afternoon you’re heading up 13,796-foot Mauna Kea (p. 192). Proposed construction of another observatory sparked a months-long protest in 2019 that blocked access to the summit. If they can, let expert tour guides with four-wheel-drive, cold-weather gear, and stargazing telescopes take you there; Mauna Kea Summit Adventures (p. 193) or Hawaii Forest & Trail (p. 193) are recommended.

Day 7: plant a tree & pamper yourself

On your last full day, give back to the island by planting a koa tree with Hawaiian Legacy Tours (p. 212) or Uluhao o Hualalai (p. 212); you’ll enjoy terrific views from either Mauna Kea or Hualalai, respectively, while learning about Hawaiian culture, too. Afterward, visit one of North Kona’s gorgeous beaches hidden behind lava fields, such as Kekaha Kai State Park (p. 185) or the tranquil cove at Kaloko-Honokohau National Historical Park (p. 185), or relax with a spa treatment at the Fairmont Orchid’s Spa Without Walls (p. 256).

A Week on Maui

You’ll need at least a week to savor Maui’s best experiences. We recommend staying in South or West Maui, home to hot and sunny beaches, then cooling off with excursions to a mountaintop and rejuvenating rainforest, with a last night closer to the airport in Central Maui. We’ve designed this itinerary assuming you’ll stay in West Maui for the first 4 nights, but it works almost as well if you stay in Wailea or Kihei. To minimize driving, move your headquarters to lush East Maui midweek.

Day 1: arrive & explore West Maui

After picking up your rental car, fuel up at Leoda’s Kitchen & Pie Shop in Olowalu (p. 394) en route to your hotel. Check in, and then go for a reviving dip at one of West Maui’s prime beaches (p. 321). Meander around the historic old town of Lahaina (p. 302).

Day 2: sail to Lanai or snorkel off Maui

You’ll likely wake up early on your first morning here, so book an early-morning trip with Trilogy (p. 332), the best sailing/snorkeling operation in Hawaii. You’ll spend the day (breakfast and lunch included) sailing to Lanai, snorkeling, touring the island, and sailing back to Lahaina. You’ll have the afternoon free to shop or nap. Or book a Zodiac or catamaran snorkel tour that arrives at Molokini Crater early, then visits one of South Maui’s turtle towns; suggestions begin on p. 330.

Old Lahaina Luau

Day 3: sunbathe in South Maui

Take a drive out to Makena State Park (p. 306) and soak in the raw beauty of its sprawling beach. On the way, pay a visit to the sharks and sea turtles at the Maui Ocean Center in Maalaea (p. 304). Linger in South Maui to enjoy the sunset and feast at one of the area’s terrific restaurants (recommendations start on p. 403).

Day 4: put down roots & celebrate culture

Spend a morning volunteering to restore the habitat or plant taro in a hidden valley with Kipuka Olowalu (p. 341) and learn about the biology and Native Hawaiian lore associated with this special place from friendly experts. Since you were savvy enough to book reservations for the family-friendly Old Lahaina Luau (p. 424) or romantic Feast at Lele (p. 388) a month in advance, you can immerse yourself in Hawaiian culture as the sun drops into the sea.

Day 5: ascend a 10,000-foot volcano

Venture up to the 10,023-foot summit of Haleakala, the island’s dormant volcano. Book a permit well in advance to witness sunrise, which can be phenomenal but also very cold. Go later to hike in Haleakala National Park (p. 307), an awe-inspiring experience any time of day. On your way down, stop and tour Upcountry Maui (p. 306), particularly the communities of Kula and Makawao, then visit seaside Paia (p. 314). Reserve early for a memorable sunset dinner in Kuau at Mama’s Fish House (p. 413).

A black-sand beach and rock formations near Hana

Day 6: explore heavenly Hana

Forgo the anxiety of looking for legal places to park on the crowded, if scenic Hana Highway, and book an all-day, small-group or private tour (suggestions begin on p. 321); and let someone else worry about sweating the hairpin turns and one-lane bridges. Longer tours allow for time to ogle waterfalls, hike through bamboo forest, and perhaps dip into the pools of Oheo Gulch in the Kipahulu District of Haleakala National Park, 12 miles west of Hana (p. 318). Or take the even more scenic, 15-minute flight into Hana from Kahului and stay overnight at the Hana-Maui Resort (p. 381), which will shuttle you to gorgeous Hamoa Beach (p. 328); it’s easy to explore the tiny town of Hana (p. 317) on foot (p. 318).

Day 7: hit the beach & boutiques

On your final full day, admire the green needle and bubbling streams at historic Iao Valley (p. 300) and browse the funky boutiques of Wailuku (p. 416). Then return to the west or south Maui beach of your choice for one last memorable sunset.

A Week on Molokai

Some visitors would quail at the thought of spending 7 whole days on Hawaii’s most low-key island, which at first glance seems to offer the fewest activities and attractions. The island’s residents are also keen to keep it that way, rejecting any moves to increase tourism. But if you’re committed to exploring here, you’ll need to plan your vacation carefully—including the season and days of the week—to be able to experience everything on this itinerary. Our itinerary is based on a Monday arrival (weekday arrival strongly recommended). If you’re staying on the West End or East End, where the most desirable lodgings are, allow plenty of time to drive to Central Molokai attractions.

Day 1: arrive & go nuts

After you pick up your rental car (a must), drive just a few minutes to the tiny Hoolehua post office to Post-a-Nut (p. 434)—decorating a coconut that you can mail home—and swing by Purdy’s Natural Macadamia Nut Farm (p. 435) nearby for a free informative, tasty tour. If you’re staying in a condo, pick up groceries in Kaunakakai (p. 454), enjoying en route the views of the Molokai Plumerias orchard (p. 433), typically in bloom March to October. Treat yourself to dinner at Hiro’s Ohana Grill (p. 452) for gorgeous sunset and Lanai views over the fringing reef.

Day 2: tour Kalaupapa

These days you’re most likely to have to fly down to Kalaupapa National Historical Park (p. 431), since a landslide on its steeply winding trail has kept it out of commission for several years. You’ll also have to take a guided tour, assuming they have resumed by the time you read this, since they include the necessary federal permit. But the effort and expense are worth it to explore this otherwise inaccessible, always impressive site of natural beauty and tragic history, where two Catholic saints, Father Damien and Mother Marianne Cope (p. 438), helped care for the leprosy patients exiled here. If you can’t book a tour, head to Palaau State Park (p. 438) to see the Kalaupapa Overlook, stopping by Molokai Museum to browse its Kalaupapa exhibits and short videos. Recharge at Kualapuu Cookhouse (p. 455).

Day 3: savor the West End beaches

Pack a picnic, drinks, and beach gear—stop at Molokai Fish & Dive (p. 456)—and spend a day exploring glorious West End beaches (p. 442). If it’s winter, don’t plan on going in the water; instead, enjoy the sightings of whales (at their peak Jan–Mar) or intrepid surfers. Note that the only public restroom facilities are at the northern end of nearly 3-mile-long Papohaku Beach Park, where you’ll want to stay for sunset.

Day 4: hike to a waterfall & into the past

Anyone can take the incredibly scenic, sinuous, shore-hugging drive to pretty Halawa Beach Park (p. 441), but you’ll need reservations (book several weeks in advance) and a picnic lunch for the Halawa Valley cultural tours (p. 439) offered by the Solatorio family. After the traditional Hawaiian protocol to welcome visitors and an introduction to the ancient enclave’s history, you’ll hike to the gorgeous, 250-foot Mooula Falls, where a dip is possible in calm conditions. Since you have your swim gear, stop at the East End’s Sandy and Kumimi beaches (p. 441) on the drive home. Make a photo stop at St. Damien’s picturesque churches on the eastern half of King Kamehameha V Highway—St. Joseph and Our Lady of Seven Sorrows (p. 438).

Day 5: visit a fishpond & explore the South Shore’s reef

Start your day with a 45-minute tour of Alii Fishpond, an example of ancient Hawaii’s impressive aquaculture (p. 435). Then explore the teeming marine life and tranquil waters sheltered by the South Shore’s enormous fringing reef, which is Molokai at its finest. Depending on your ability, book a private stand-up paddle or kayak tour with Molokai Outdoors (p. 444), or a snorkel/dive trip with Molokai Fish & Dive (p. 456). The reef typically keeps the water calm even in winter, with whale-watching excursions (p. 440) at their peak in January through March. Your boat may be the only one visible for miles around. Enjoy a delicious dinner at Paddlers Restaurant (p. 452) with live (and lively) music Wednesday through Friday nights.

Day 6: savor unique shops and local treats

Browse the Saturday morning farmer’s market (p. 454) and quaint stores in Kaunakakai (p. 456) for locally made jewelry, T-shirts, sarongs, and artwork of every media. Food trucks and mom-and-pop restaurants offer plenty of casual dining options; don’t miss an ice cream cone from Kamoi Snack-and-Go (p. 453). Cat lovers should make an appointment to visit Akaula Cat Garden in Kualapuu (p. 434) and shop at Desi’s Island Gifts next door for souvenirs whose sales support the shelter.

Day 7: enjoy the peacefulness

If this is Sunday, then there’s little to do on Molokai—besides going to one of the many churches—and that’s the way local folks like it. Now’s a good day to revisit a favorite beach or drive up to rustic Ironwood Hills Golf Course (p. 446).

A Week on Lanai

The smallest among the Hawaiian Islands that are open to visitors, this former pineapple plantation is now home to a posh resort, a luxurious wellness retreat, a rich and colorful history, and a postage-stamp-size town with some of the friendliest people you’ll ever meet. There are enough activities here to keep you busy, but you’ll probably be happiest skipping a few and slowing down to Lanai speed.

Day 1: arrive & explore Hulopoe Bay’s tide pools

After settling into your lodgings, head for the best stretch of sand on the island (and maybe the state): Hulopoe Beach (p. 471). It’s generally safe for swimming, and snorkeling within this marine preserve is excellent. The fish are so friendly you practically have to shoo them away; dolphins are frequent visitors. Hike up to the lookout at Puu Pehe (Sweetheart Rock, p. 477). Dine like a celebrity at Nobu (p. 482).

Day 2: explore Lanai City & Garden of the Gods

Head into quaint Lanai City to browse the boutiques (p. 485) and get a colorful history lesson at the Lanai Culture & Heritage Center (p. 466). Buckle up for a 31⁄2-hour tour with Rabaca’s Limousine Service. Let your driver navigate the rough road down to Polihua Beach (p. 472), Lanai’s largest white-sand beach. On the way back, linger at the Garden of the Gods (p. 468) to snap photos of the otherworldly landscape at sunset. Finish your day at the Lanai City Bar & Grille, perhaps listening to live music and dining by the fire pits out back (p. 484).

Day 3: enjoy a day on the water

If you’re a guest of the Four Seasons Resort Lanai, you can go out with Lanai Ocean Sports (p. 473) on a snorkel, sail, or scuba adventure along the island’s west coast or at Cathedrals, one of Hawaii’s most ethereal dive sites. If you’re staying elsewhere, book a kayak tour (some with snorkeling) from Lanai Adventure Club (p. 473). At night, savor hand-mixed cocktails and shoot some pool at the Break in the Four Seasons Resort Lanai (p. 487).

Day 4: four-wheel it to the East Side

Lanai is a fantastic place to go four-wheeling. If it hasn’t been raining, splurge on an ATV or four-wheel-drive vehicle and head out to the East Side. Get a picnic lunch from Lanai City Service (p. 485) and download the Lanai Guide app for GPS-enabled directions, historic photos, and haunting Hawaiian chants. Find the petroglyphs at Shipwreck Beach (p. 472) and forge onward to Keomoku Village and Lopa Beach (p. 470).

Day 5: brunch like royalty & frolic with felines

Fill your belly with a lavish island-style breakfast at One Forty (p. 483), Then drive past the airport (or take a $10 cab ride) to the endearing Lanai Cat Sanctuary (p. 469) an open-air compound that welcomes visitors to pet and play with some of their hundreds of friendly felines, brought here to protect the island’s endangered birds. Return your ATV or car in town and catch a movie at Hale Keaka (p. 487).

Day 6: choose your adventure & hit the spa

Visit the Island Activities desk in the Four Seasons Resort Lanai to book a horseback ride (p. 478) through upland Lanai, or to try your hand at the clay shooting and archery ranges (p. 475). Or head to Lanai Adventure Park (p. 478) for exhilarating ziplines and rope courses, where you can also reserve a guided tour by electric bike. Cap your adventure with a soothing treatment at the Hawanawana Spa (p. 481) at the Four Seasons Resort Lanai.

Day 7: spend a day at the beach

Soak up the sun at Hulopoe Beach (p. 471). Grab a book and watch the kids play in the surf. If you feel inclined, follow the Kapihaa Trail (p. 477) along the rocky coast. For lunch, wander up to Malibu Farm (p. 484) and scan the horizon for dolphins or whales.

A Week on Kauai

Because much of the Garden Island, including the Napali Coast, is inaccessible to cars, a week will just suffice to view its beauty. To save driving time, split your stay between the North and South shores (detailed below) or stay on the East Side.

Day 1: arrival, lunch & a scenic drive

From the airport, stop by Hamura’s Saimin Stand (p. 577) or another Lihue lunch counter (see Plate Lunch, Bento & Poke, p. 574) for a classic taste of Kauai before driving through the bustling Coconut Coast on your way to the serenity of the rural North Shore (p. 508). Soak in the views at the Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge & Lighthouse (reservations required, p. 509), and then poke around Kilauea’s Kong Lung Historic Market Center (p. 590).

Day 2: hike & snorkel the North Shore

Hanalei Bay

Thanks to the time difference between Hawaii and the mainland, you’ll likely wake up early—the perfect time to explore the attractions of Haena State Park (p. 508), for which you now must reserve a parking permit or shuttle pass. Nine one-lane bridges await on the way to popular Kee Beach (p. 527). If conditions permit, hike at least a half-hour out on the challenging Kalalau Trail (p. 547) for glimpses of the stunning Napali Coast, or tackle the first 2 miles to Hanakapiai Beach, 3 to 4 hours round-trip. After (or instead of) hiking, snorkel at Kee and equally gorgeous Makua (Tunnels) Beach (p. 528), accessed from Haena Beach Park. Spend time in the jewel-box setting of Limahuli Garden and Preserve (p. 510) before returning to Hanalei to explore shops and galleries; after dinner, enjoy live Hawaiian music at the venerable Tahiti Nui (p. 595).

Day 3: adventures in Hanalei

The day begins on Hanalei Bay, kayaking, surfing, or snorkeling (see Watersports, p. 531) or just frolicking at one of the three different beach parks (p. 526). If the waves are too rough, head instead to lagoon-like Anini Beach (p. 525). Later, try ziplining (p. 551) or horseback riding (p. 550) amid waterfalls and green mountains; those who book in advance can tour delightful Na Aina Kai Botanical Gardens (p. 495). Book ahead for dinner at the Bar Acuda (p. 578) or the more casual Ama (p. 578) in Hanalei.

Day 4: nature & culture en route to Poipu

After breakfast, head south. Visit Kilauea’s Anaina Hou Community Park (p. 508) for Kauai-themed mini-golf in a botanical garden. Stop for a bite at a funky cafe or gourmet burger joint in Kapaa (recommendations begin on p. 572); then drive to Opaekaa Falls and see the cultural sites of Wailua River State Park (p. 507). After crossing through busy Lihue, admire the scenery on the way to Old Koloa Town (p. 591), where you can browse the quaint shops before checking into your Poipu lodgings. Pick a dinner spot from the many excellent choices in the Shops at Kukuiula.

Helicopter view of Napali

Day 5: napali by boat or helicopter

Splurge on a snorkel boat or Zodiac raft tour (p. 532) to the Napali Coast, or take a helicopter tour (p. 521) for amazing views of Napali, Waimea Canyon, waterfalls, and more. For helicopter tours, most of which depart from Lihue, book a late-morning tour (after rush hour). Then have lunch in Lihue at Kauai Beer Company (p. 572) and drive to Wailua Falls (p. 508) before perusing the shops, tasting rum, or riding the train at Kilohana Plantation (p. 505).

Day 6: Waimea Canyon & Kokee State Park

Start your drive early to the Grand Canyon of the Pacific, Waimea Canyon (p. 519). Stay on the road through forested Kokee State Park (p. 517) to the Kalalau Valley Overlook (p. 518), and wait for mists to part for a magnificent view. Stop by the Kokee Museum (p. 518) to obtain trail information for a hike after lunch at Kokee Lodge (p. 571). Or head back down to hit the waves at Salt Pond Beach or stroll through rustic Hanapepe (p. 531), home to a Friday night festival and art walk (p. 595).

Day 7: beach & spa time in Poipu

Spend the morning at glorious Poipu Beach (p. 530) before the crowds arrive, and then head over to Keoneloa (Shipwrecks) Beach (p. 528) to hike along the coastal Mahaulepu Heritage Trail (p. 548). Later, indulge in a spa treatment at Anara Spa at the Grand Hyatt Kauai (p. 565) or take a tour (booked in advance) at the National Tropical Botanical Garden (p. 515). Check out the flume of Spouting Horn (p. 517) before dinner at Red Salt (p. 585) or The Beach House (p. 582).

The statue of Duke Kahanamoku on Waikiki Beach

by Jeanne Cooper

Since the Polynesians navigated their way across the Pacific to the Hawaiian Islands a millennium ago, this chain of floating emeralds has bedazzled travelers from around the globe. Now the multiethnic residents of these islands are trying to chart a new course, one that is turning away from mass tourism yet welcoming those who will care for Hawaii’s unique ecosystem and culture.

The Hawaiian Islands bask in the warm waters of the Pacific, where they are blessed by a tropical sun and cooled by gentle trade winds—creating what might be the most ideal climate imaginable. Mother Nature has carved out verdant valleys, hung brilliant rainbows in the sky, and trimmed the islands with sandy beaches in a spectrum of colors. The indigenous Hawaiian culture, now asserting itself more forcefully in political, business and environmental issues, still embodies aloha spirit, an easygoing generosity that takes the shape of flower leis freely given, monumental feasts shared with friends and family, and hypnotic melodies played late into the balmy night. The polyglot cultures that arrived in Hawaii during the plantation era have adopted this spirit as theirs, too, and adapted the feasts to include a panoply of ethnic cuisines found nowhere else.

Visitors are drawn to Hawaii not only for its incredible beauty, but also for its opportunities for adventure. Go