Fodor's Seattle

By Fodor’s Travel Guides

Whether you want to take in the view from the Space Needle, sample world-class coffee and cuisine, or hike in Washington's national parks, the local Fodor's travel experts in Seattle are here to help! Fodor's Seattle guidebook is packed with maps, carefully curated recommendations, and everything else you need to simplify your trip-planning process and make the most of your time. This new edition has been fully-redesigned with an easy-to-read layout, fresh information, and beautiful color photos.

Fodor's Seattle travel guide includes:

• AN ILLUSTRATED ULTIMATE EXPERIENCES GUIDE to the top things to see and do
• MULTIPLE ITINERARIES to effectively organize your days and maximize your time
• 16 DETAILED MAPS to help you navigate confidently
• COLOR PHOTOS throughout to spark your wanderlust!
• HONEST RECOMMENDATIONS FROM LOCALS on the best sights, restaurants, hotels, nightlife, shopping, performing arts, activities, side-trips, and more
• PHOTO-FILLED “BEST OF” FEATURES on “Seattle's Best Cafes,” “Seattle's Best Music Venues,” and “Seattle's Best Parks”
• TRIP-PLANNING TOOLS AND PRACTICAL TIPS including when to go, getting around, beating the crowds, and saving time and money
• HISTORICAL AND CULTURAL INSIGHTS providing rich context on the local art, architecture, cuisine, music, geography and more
• SPECIAL FEATURES on “Seattle's Sipping Culture” and “Pike Place Market”
• LOCAL WRITERS to help you find the under-the-radar gems
• UP-TO-DATE COVERAGE ON: Downtown Seattle, Belltown, South Lake Union, Queen Anne, Pioneer Square, the International District-Chinatown, First Hill, Capitol Hill, Madison Park, Fremont, Phinney Ridge, Greenwood, Ballard, Wallingford, Green Lake, the University District, West Seattle, Mt. St. Helens, the Puget Sound Islands, Mt. Rainier, Olympic National Park, the San Juan Islands, Pike Place Market, and more

Planning on visiting San Francisco, Portland, or even more of the surrounding region? Check out Fodor's San Francisco, Fodor's Inside Portland, and Fodor's Pacific Northwest.

*Important note for digital editions: The digital edition of this guide does not contain all the images or text included in the physical edition.

ABOUT FODOR'S AUTHORS: Each Fodor's Travel Guide is researched and written by local experts. Fodor's has been offering expert advice for all tastes and budgets for over 80 years. For more travel inspiration, you can sign up for our travel newsletter at fodors.com/newsletter/signup, or follow us @FodorsTravel on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter. We invite you to join our friendly community of travel experts at fodors.com/community to ask any other questions and share your experience with us!

• Language: English
• Publisher: Fodor's Travel
• Release date: Apr 25, 2023
• ISBN: 9781640975941

Fodor’s Travel Guides

For over 80 years, Fodor's Travel has been a trusted resource offering expert travel advice for every stage of a traveler's trip. We hire local writers who know their destinations better than anyone else, allowing us to provide the best travel recommendations for all tastes and budgets in over 7,500 worldwide destinations. Our books make it possible for every trip to be a trip of a lifetime.

Book preview

Chapter 1: Experience Seattle

20 ULTIMATE EXPERIENCES

Seattle offers terrific experiences that should be on every traveler’s list. Here are Fodor’s top picks for a memorable trip.

1 Seattle waterfront

Along the waterfront, stretching down Elliott Bay from the Olympic Sculpture Park to Pioneer Square, you can walk the piers to catch the Washington State Ferry, grab a cup of chowder, check out the Seattle Aquarium, or hop on the Seattle Great Wheel. (Ch. 3)

2 Pike Place

A tradition since 1907, Pike Place is among the oldest continuously operated public farmers’ markets in the U.S. and draws locals and tourists alike. (Ch. 3)

3 Burke Museum of Natural History

Founded in 1899, the Burke Museum has living exhibits on paleontology, archaeology, biology, and contemporary culture in an enormous modern facility. (Ch. 12)

4 The Children’s Museum

Let your children wander through an immersive world of imagination in this 18,000-square-foot exhibition, updated in 2022. If they can dream it, they can be it. (Ch. 4)

5 The Seattle Center

Enjoy the city’s cultural spoils here—five museums, performing arts spaces, a giant fountain, parks, an arena, the Space Needle, and plenty of food to try. (Ch. 4)

6 Sky View Observatory

Head 902 feet up to the 73rd floor of the Columbia Center downtown for incredible 360-degree views of Seattle’s magnificent skyline attractions. (Ch. 3)

7 Olympic Sculpture Park

This 9-acre outdoor sculpture art park is filled with enormous works within a sprawling natural path weaving past Elliott Bay. (Ch. 3)

8 Chihuly Garden and Glass

Considered to be among the modern masters in glasswork, artist Dale Chihuly is behind Seattle’s unique and vibrant technicolor sculptural garden. (Ch. 4)

9 Visit the Original Starbucks

Opened in 1975 across from Pike Place Market, the Original Starbucks is technically its second location, but it’s still exciting for many to pay respects to the storefront. (Ch. 3)

10 Woodland Park Zoo

Come get up close and personal with more than 900 animals representing more than 250 species at this historic zoo dating back to 1899. (Ch. 9)

11 Space Needle

Erected for the 1962 World’s Fair, this 602-foot-tall internationally renowned Space Age–era relic remains a quintessential Seattle experience. (Ch. 4)

12 The Seattle Public Library

This 11-story building has a distinctive design with tremendous space that can hold up to 1.45 million books, along with an innovative Books Spiral, that winds up four stories. (Ch. 3)

13 Underground tours

Underneath the streets lies a whole subterranean layer of tunnels, bypasses, and secrets. See the gritty underground via a fascinating tour. (Ch. 5)

14 Pioneer Square

Anchored between Chinatown and SoDo District just steps away from the waterfront, Pioneer Square is considered the heart of Seattle’s historic downtown. (Ch. 5)

15 Fremont Troll

Inspired by Scandinavian folklore, this towering mixed media statue is the work of four local artists and large enough to clutch a full-sized Volkswagen Beetle. (Ch. 9)

16 Volunteer Park

Seattle’s largest park is 534 acres of winding woodland trails, picturesque sea-cliff views, sprawling open meadows, and other natural landscapes. (Ch. 8)

17 Smith Tower Observatory

Travel back in time at this scenic 35th floor historic skyscraper lounge with a Prohibition-era speakeasy and scenic views for miles from an open-air deck. (Ch. 5)

18 Seattle Aquarium

The ninth largest aquarium in the U.S, the big showstopper here is a 360-degree view, 400,000-gallon glass tank showcasing the life swimming around Puget Sound. (Ch. 3)

19 Museum of Pop Culture

Learn the stories behind the ascension of rock legends like Prince and Nirvana; see props and costumes from A Nightmare on Elm Street and Buffy the Vampire Slayer. (Ch. 4)

20 Museum of Flight

If it flies, then it’s probably here at this 185,000 square-foot aviation museum that’s home to 175 aircraft and spacecraft vehicles. (Ch. 13)

WHAT’S WHERE

dingbat Downtown and Belltown. Popular tourist spots including the waterfront, iconic Pike Place Market, and Seattle Art Museum are here. Belltown is home to the Olympic Sculpture Park.

dingbat South Lake Union and Queen Anne. Queen Anne rises up from Seattle Center to the Lake Washington Ship Canal. South Lake Union has the REI superstore, Museum of History and Industry, and a nice lakefront.

dingbat Pioneer Square. Seattle’s oldest neighborhood has historic redbrick and sandstone buildings.

dingbat Chinatown–International District. The I.D. is a fun place to shop and eat. The stunning Wing Luke Museum anchors the neighborhood.

dingbat First Hill and the Central District. Nicknamed Pill Hill, the First Hill neighborhood has the Frye Art Museum. Farther east is the Central District, with beautiful churches, street art, and a renaissance of Black business ownership.

dingbat Capitol Hill and Madison Park. One side is young and edgy, full of artists, musicians, and students. The other is elegant and upscale, with 19th-century mansions.

dingbat Fremont, Phinney Ridge, and Greenwood. Fremont is a mix of pricey boutiques and restaurants. Phinney Ridge includes the Woodland Park Zoo.

dingbat Ballard. This historically Scandinavian neighborhood is now booming with new builds and trendy bars.

dingbat Wallingford and Green Lake. Wallingford starts at the Ship Canal with Gas Works Park. Green Lake’s park has a three-mile paved path that circles the lake.

dingbat The University District. The University of Washington’s vast campus is lovely, and the surrounding neighborhood can be both gritty and inviting.

dingbat West Seattle. West Seattle’s California Avenue has appealing shops and restaurants.

dingbat Eastside. These suburbs are home to Microsoft. Bellevue has its own skyline, an art museum, and high-end shops.

dingbat Side Trips from Seattle. Visit the Islands, Mt. Rainier, and Olympic National Park.

Seattle’s Natural Wonders

TAKE IN VIEWS FROM DISCOVERY PARK

The largest park in Seattle is a wonder in itself, but it also offers views of many of Western Washington’s natural wonders. Sweeping bluff views of Puget Sound and the Olympic Mountains and stunning Mt. Rainier vistas are all visible from various points in this scenic park.

HIKE MT. SI OR MT. RAINIER

If Seattle’s steep streets aren’t enough for you, spend an afternoon trekking the trails. Mt. Si is the most popular: the 8-mile trek goes to 3,900 feet. Mt. Rainier National Park, with over 260 miles of trails with forests, lakes, and a network of glaciers, should be on your bucket list.

STROLL THROUGH GOLDEN GARDENS PARK

Take a walk along the rugged 300-foot shoreline at this popular park at the edge of Seattle’s Ballard neighborhood. Built in 1907, this historic site was developed as a weekend attraction for nature-loving locals to enjoy the surf and sand.

CRUISE THE LOCKS

On a nice day, the views from the Argosy Cruises Locks tour between Elliott Bay and Lake Union are magical. Aside from witnessing the unique transition from salt to fresh water, you’ll learn all sorts of cool facts on local history while passing the nautical rush hour of large fishing vessels and seaplanes.

RIDE THE WASHINGTON STATE FERRIES

Tours are nice, but if you want to pack in something quick ’n’ easy, hop a scenic ferry from Downtown Seattle across Puget Sound to Bainbridge Island. You can’t beat the price ($9.25 for a passenger ticket), and its hourly commuter schedule from Colman Dock on the prime strip of the Seattle waterfront makes it easy to arrange an impromptu boat ride without the hassle.

KAYAK OR PADDLEBOARD AT THE NORTHWEST OUTDOOR CENTER

If you’d rather navigate the water than be a passenger, head to the Northwest Outdoor Center to rent a kayak or paddleboard for an afternoon around Lake Union and Puget Sound. Kayak rentals are reasonable for budget-conscious travelers, ranging from $23 to $40 per hour, with kayak instructors and organized trips available if you’d like to join a crew. Northwest Outdoor Center offers classes in sea and river kayaking, as well as stand-up paddleboarding. The company has been around since 1980, so you can be sure you’re in good hands with them.

BIKE ALONG THE WATERFRONT

For Seattle denizens, biking is more than just a mode of transportation or a leisurely pastime—it’s a way of life. When visiting, expect to share the road when you hit the 8½-mile Seattle Waterfront Pathway. Smooth pavement and endless views of the Elliott Bay shoreline make this bike path a must for experiencing the best of coastal nature and city sights on wheels. The trail will wiggle a bit until construction finishes near the Pike Street Hillclimb and the Lenora Street Bridge, but eventually brings riders to the Olympic Sculpture Park and Myrtle Edwards Park, where another path continues north.

GO WHALE-WATCHING

The whale-watching in Puget Sound and the San Juan Islands is legendary—a dream that many will still travel the world for. There are many ways to have an encounter, including boat rides, seaplanes, and guided kayak tours. Peak season happens from May to October.

Seattle’s Best Cafés

LIGHTHOUSE ROASTERS

The dream of the ‘90s is alive at this cozy coffee shop and roastery that has been keeping Fremont caffeinated with expertly curated and meticulously roasted small-batch artisan brews since 1993. Using a vintage cast-iron roaster, Lighthouse is all about the slow drip.

MR. WEST

No, it’s not the famous Mr. West you’re probably thinking of—though this café-bar concept is certainly cool enough to name-drop. With two locations in Downtown and University Village, this trendy all-day café serves breakfast and lunch items like toasts topped with aged cheddar, honey, and sea salt; local-market Greek yogurt topped with apple compote; and an herbed pork meatball sandwich with fontina and mornay on demi-baguette. Their sleek, plant-filled interior is inviting; you might even want to stay and wind down after coffee with some beer or wine.

VICTROLA COFFEE ROASTERS

Victrola is among Seattle’s must-see destinations for coffee geeks. Named for the Victrola phonograph that was popular in the 1920s, this roaster and café pays homage to that decade through their aesthetic and vibe of their spaces. Top-notch latte art and sumptuous small batch roasted brews make this among the best places for a coffee tasting. Coffee might be taken seriously here, but the vibe is laid back with plenty of room to bring a group without worrying about a table.

ELM COFFEE ROASTERS

Modern with a touch of twee, this sunny contemporary roastery and café nestled in Pioneer Square isn’t just a great place to sip a solid brew—it’s a place to get educated on coffee beans from around the world. Learn to cup and brew like a certified barista or come see how beans are roasted on-site through windows that offer views into the back room. Grab a freshly baked pastry courtesy of local favorite Salmonberry Goods, and take a seat at the long marble bar where you can sip on lightly roasted brews and chat with friendly baristas. Elm Coffee Roasters showcase vibrant blends from places like Ethiopia, Rwanda, and Colombia. If you have a discerning palate, you’re sure to taste the subtle notes of their unique blends. A second location in South Lake Union shares the same characteristics, minus the on-site roastery.

FULCRUM COFFEE

Though the roastery sits in SoDo, Fulcrum’s café is located just north of Seattle Center, making it convenient to step into the bright, modern space and taste through its unique selection of single-origin beans from China, Myanmar, and elsewhere.

BOON BOONA COFFEE

Brewing exclusively African beans, Boon Boona takes inspiration from the Eritrean and Ethiopian coffee worlds and translates that into a community-oriented specialty coffee shop. The spacious original location is in suburban Renton, but the 12th Avenue location is in the traditional heart of the city’s Ethiopian community and convenient from Downtown and Capitol Hill.

HELLO EM VIET COFFEE & ROASTERY

On the edge of the Little Saigon section of the Chinatown-International District, this little roastery and snack shop sits just inside a community center. The original twists on Vietnamese-style coffees and sandwiches go well with the history of the neighborhood printed on the walls.

MONORAIL ESPRESSO

Quick, convenient, and classic, these small counters serve excellent espresso drinks to passers-by on Downtown Seattle streets. Started as one of the city’s (and country’s) first coffee carts, all three locations are now stationary, but maintain that old-school streetside feeling from literal holes in the wall.

MILSTEAD AND CO.

The city’s best third-wave, multiroaster cafe, this Fremont shop makes for the best place to fall in love with a bean, explore new methods of brewing, or simply learn more about coffee and what you like to drink.

ESPRESSO VIVACE

One of Seattle’s pioneering coffee roasters, Vivace stays true to its roots with precise Italian-style roasting and brewing. Either of its two cafes (in South Lake Union and on Capitol Hill) offers classic Pacific Northwest coffeeshop experiences, but the sidewalk café across Broadway from the flagship location gives the truest feeling of the early ‘90s coffee scene Vivace helped build.

What to Eat and Drink in Seattle

SEATTLE DOG

Every city has its signature hot dog topping, and Seattle’s is the surprising—and surprisingly good—squiggle of cream cheese. People tend to be dubious until they try it, so stop by any hot-dog cart, especially the late-night ones parked outside bars in Capitol Hill, Belltown, and Pioneer Square.

LOCALLY ROASTED COFFEE

Seattle’s coffee reputation has long been tied to the hometown chain, Starbucks, but it’s smaller independent roasters like Broadcast, Cafe Avole, and Lighthouse that locals love, and that keep the city caffeinated.

FRESHLY SHUCKED OYSTERS

The cold, clean waters of the Pacific Northwest brim with nutrients, which produces crisp, briny oysters that are the pride of the region. The rare, native Olympia oyster, specifically, garners the most praise. The state is home to America’s largest shellfish farm and you can find these flavorful delights throughout Seattle. Look for weekday-afternoon happy hours for a discounted dozen paired with a delicious beverage.

RAINIER CHERRIES

Washington’s apples might make headlines, but Seattleites wait all year for Rainier cherries, the two-tone (golden and pink), ultra-sweet gems named, of course, for the nearby landmark. The eponymous delights arrive midsummer.

WILD SALMON

Seattle is undeniably a seafood town, and its most famous product might just be wild salmon, whose color is a rainbow of pink, orange, and red. The dish graces many menus and sushi bars.

GEODUCK

Less famous than the salmon and oysters, but most symbolic for locals, this giant saltwater clam (pronounced gooey-duck) is the purest taste of local merroir (flavor of the sea). Surprisingly sweet and crunchy, you can eat it cooked or raw, though it looks most impressive when viewed whole.

PHO

If you’ve ever wondered how Seattle survives the damp and dark of winter here, the answer lies at the bottom of a bowl of this subtle, fragrant Vietnamese noodle soup, found every few blocks. Vietnamese food, in general, is very popular in the city, but hot noodle soup filled with beef or vegetables particularly complements rainy days.

CRAFT-BREWED IPA

Craft breweries serve as a second home for most Seattleites, and nobody dare open one without serving their version of the hoppy Northwest India pale ale. Ballard is a certified brewery destination, though excellent small-batch breweries are sprinkled across various Seattle neighborhoods.

TERIYAKI

Lesser known than some of the others on this list, Seattle-style teriyaki is a classic workday lunch here. The affordable package of grilled meat with sweet sauce, a pile of fluffy white rice, and a crisp salad sells from small strip-mall shops and corner stores.

WASHINGTON WINE

Woodinville is the destination for oenophiles in the Pacific Northwest, with many wineries to tour and vintners to learn from. If you can’t make it out for a tasting in Woodinville, check menus for sips of Washington’s acclaimed wines, including those from Walla Walla, which is often compared to Napa Valley in quality.

Free and Almost Free

WASHINGTON PARK ARBORETUM

Get lost in over 230 acres and 10,000 native plants at Seattle’s premier oasis for flora and fauna fanatics. Explore gardens brimming with indigenous plants, shoreline marshes and wetlands, paved woodlands, flowering cherries and dogwoods, plus one of the largest Japanese maple collections in North America.

KEXP GATHERING SPACE

This big, bright indoor space takes its name from the user-powered radio station that broadcasts from here. Check out if a band is recording a live show, browse the current art exhibit, or just relax in the comfy chairs to hang out, use the free Wi-Fi, and listen to the (obviously great) tunes.

HIRAM M. CHITTENDEN LOCKS

Watch boats lowered and raised on these historic locks that separate Lake Washington, Lake Union, and Salmon Bay from the tidal waters of Puget Sound. Underground is a viewing area where salmon migrate throughout the year. Rangers give excellent free public tours.

KERRY PARK

Don’t judge Kerry Park by its small size—it’s unanimously agreed upon that this is where you’ll find the best panoramic views of Seattle. In fact, you might get a little déjà vu while up there; it’s the backdrop featured in ‘90s pop culture classics like Frasier and 10 Things I Hate About You. Located on Queen Anne Hill’s south side, from here you can see the Space Needle and Elliott Bay. It’s a moderately steep hike or a quick drive from Seattle Center, and more of a lookout than a park, but well worth the visit. The park also features an abstract sculpture made of steel by artist Doris Totten Chase, entitled Changing Form, installed in the early 1970s.

FRYE ART MUSEUM

Soak up daring contemporary art from late-19th- and early-20th-century local and international masters at this innovative art museum located in Seattle’s First Hill neighborhood. Frequently rotating exhibitions bring life to contemporary issues, where you can discover famous and emerging voices.

VOLUNTEER PARK

The influential landscape architectural firm, the Olmsted Brothers, designed this iconic urban park. It encompasses one of Seattle’s first reservoirs built in 1900, along with the Volunteer Park Conservatory, the Seattle Asian Art Museum, and a seasonal wading pool during the summer. The water tower’s observation deck offers one of the best views in Seattle, at no cost beyond the toll that the 107 steps to the top take on your legs.

DISCOVERY PARK

Boasting 534 acres of winding woodland trails, picturesque sea-cliff views, sprawling open meadows, and other natural landscapes all nestled right in the heart of the Magnolia neighborhood, Discovery Park is the largest park in Seattle and is considered its natural crown jewel. Two miles of protected tidal beaches with a historic lighthouse and high bluffs give it the feel of a sanctuary away from busy city life.

COAST GUARD MUSEUM

Seattle is the last frontier onto the Pacific ocean, so make time to stretch those sea legs exploring its incredible shipping history—all free of charge. Nestled within the Seattle waterfront at Pier 36, the Coast Guard Museum is where you can discover over 15,000 photographs dating from the mid-1800s, and the largest public collection of Coast Guard patches, historic memorabilia, vintage uniforms, and restored artillery.

Seattle’s Best Music Venues

Burlesque, jazz, R&B, punk, grunge, indie rock, and everything in between—Seattle has no shortage of legendary musicians that have put the city on the map. Today you can catch national touring acts alongside emerging talent at these renowned venues.

THE SHOWBOX AND THE SHOWBOX SODO

The Showbox has hosted many famous names on its stage since opening in 1939. This stunning art deco theater, situated right near Pike Place, long provided a stage for stadium headliners like Pearl Jam and Prince. Its sister theater, The Showbox SoDo, opened in 2007. Formerly a warehouse, this converted concert venue has a more industrial vibe.

NEUMOS AND BARBOZA

Neumos (née Neumos Crystal Ball Reading Room), is a scrappy little mid-size club pulling in Capitol Hill’s indie crowd for dance parties and live shows. In the basement is bar and club Barboza.

THE CROCODILE

This long-running indie rock club got a new location that shed its legendary grunginess while keeping its legendary status as one of the birthplaces of grunge music. The new location includes multiple venues and bars, plus an attached hotel, and keeps the reputation for headlining talent. Catch national acts, local bands, comedy shows, and Mario Kart tournaments, and grab a drink at The Society, the adjoining craft cocktail bar.

TRACTOR TAVERN

If your vibe leans more rock and country, Tractor Tavern is your down-home destination for live music. Anchoring Ballard’s historic district since 1994, they host acts from reggae and bluegrass to rockabilly and folk.

SUNSET TAVERN

A former Chinese restaurant turned dive bar and club, this trendy watering hole in the Ballard neighborhood is a destination for cool up-and-coming indie shows. In the front is Betty’s Room, a wood-paneled cocktail lounge inspired by a basement lounge that belonged to the owner’s family friends.

BALLARD SUBSTATION

The high-quality sound system at this venue means that shows can get loud for a small crowd. Expect niche styles and up-and-coming bands, with a focus on metal, bass, and electronic styles. The main room gives intimate, living room vibes, with a full bar, while the annex has more of a warehouse feel.

THE NEPTUNE

The Neptune dates back to 1921 when it first operated as The U-Neptune Theatre playhouse screening silent films and live performances. In 2011, it got a complete remodel and restoration, keeping its classic movie-house feel but creating an excellent performing arts space for music, comedy, cinema, lectures, and more.

THE PARAMOUNT

Over its nearly century-long tenure, this French baroque-style performing arts ballroom and theater on the National Historic Register has featured a never-ending line up of epic shows including Pink Floyd and the Grateful Dead.

THE TRIPLE DOOR

The Triple Door first opened as a vaudeville house in 1926, transformed into a cinema, and eventually became the dinner-music theater of today in 2002. Chow down on food from its from sister restaurant Wild Ginger while watching a wide variety of national acts, leaning toward jazz, cabaret, and reggae.

What to Listen to by Decade

From funk to punk and everything in between, Seattle’s music scene has constantly evolved. A wide variety of artists have discovered their sound in Seattle. If you’re searching for musical inspiration, tune into local radio station KEXP for Seattle’s latest and greatest.

THE ’60S AND ’70S

The Seattle funk scene, though not as prevalent today, was very much alive in the mid-’60s to early ’70s, with about 20 clubs hosting live soul and funk acts on any given night (it’s even how Kenny G got his start). While few of the names from that movement gained national fame, other local performers of the time did, including Quincy Jones and Ray Charles. In the rock realm, Seattle-born Jimi Hendrix has gone down in history as one of the greatest guitarists and songwriters of all time, and his legacy is still honored in Seattle today.

THE ’80S

Punk was alive in the ’80s in Seattle, with influence from other Pacific Northwest cities like San Francisco. Prominent bands included the Fastbacks, the Melvins, Green River, and Bam Bam, which influenced many early grunge bands. Heart rose to fame from Bellevue.

THE ’90s

Seattle will always be proud of its association with Kurt Cobain, the late great golden boy of grunge. Nirvana was signed to seminal Seattle label Sub Pop, which gave rise to the grunge movement, and was also the home of bands like Mudhoney. Alice in Chains and Pearl Jam also formed in the early ’90s, while Soundgarden peaked around then, too. Hole, fronted by the infamous Courtney Love, came out with Live Through This in 1994, their best-known and most accessible album—tracks like Miss World were written in Seattle. Kathleen Hanna of Bikini Kill, the Julie Ruin, and Le Tigre, is credited as being one of the most influential female punk artists, not just in the Pacific Northwest but everywhere. The birthers of the Riot Grrrl movement, Bikini Kill put out the perfectly ’90s punk album Revolution Girl Style Now! in 1991, inspiring acts like Sleater-Kinney (also originally out of Olympia, Washington), and influencing contemporaries like Nirvana. Hip-hop was also prevalent at this time, with one of most notable PNW-based acts being Sir Mix-a-Lot.

THE 2000S

Grunge dissipated and evolved into indie pop, and the Seattle sound favored ethereal production over rawness. Joining the Sub Pop label were bands like Fleet Foxes, Sunny Day Real Estate, the Postal Service, Death Cab for Cutie, and more.

TODAY

Rapper Macklemore is probably one of the most famous contemporary artists out of Seattle, but the city continues to pump out amazing artists across a wide range of genres, including Brandi Carlile, Car Seat Headrest, the Head and the Heart, Odesza, Parisalexa, and Tacocat.

Space Needle 101

Ready for a 42-second elevator ride to the future? When it was built for the future-focused Century 21 World’s Fair in 1962, the Space Needle symbolized Seattle’s innovative spirit and technological might. Today, the 605-foot spire is one of the world’s most recognizable skyline landmarks and the city’s most popular tourist attraction, with a revolving restaurant and an observation deck in the flying saucer-like Tophouse.

WHAT WENT INTO THE NEW-AND-IMPROVED SPACE NEEDLE?

Many years in the planning, the Century Project involved a large global team of experts and the creation of a new kind of glass before it was completed in 2019. More than 100 crew members worked around the clock during the installation phase of the renovation, which was done in sections to keep the Space Needle open to visitors. To install the floor-to-ceiling glass enclosure for the observation deck, a special crane hoisted glass panels weighing more than a ton around 520 feet in the air, where the panels were set in place using a custom robotic arm with giant suction cups. It’s a true feat of engineering, as is the glass rotating floor that’s the first of its kind in the world.

IS IT WORTH THE CROWDS AND THE PRICE?

The Space Needle has always been a popular tourist attraction, with crowds zipping up the elevator hundreds of times a day to take in epic 360-degree views of the city, mountains, and Puget Sound. The original observation deck design included a solid guardrail and horizontal metal safety cables that got in the way of a seamless panorama. Now there’s nothing between you and the bird’s-eye views but glass. Wrapping all the way around the observation deck at 520 feet, a series of 11-foot-tall, 7-foot-wide glass panels start at the floor and tilt outward. Glass benches around the perimeter follow the angle of the transparent walls, making a jaw-dropping backdrop for selfies. Even on cloudy days, you can see for what seems like forever. A striking grand staircase leads down to the 500-foot level, where floor-to-ceiling glass walls and a high-tech glass revolving floor overlook the ground below.

SHOULD I GO IF I’M AFRAID OF HEIGHTS?

That depends. Do you just get a little nervous or are we talking full-on acrophobia? Space Needle tours start in an elevator that holds 25 people and has windows so you can watch your rapid ascent. Your stomach might drop a little on the 42-second ride up. Once you’ve reached the Tophouse, you’ll be surrounded by glass, so there’s no getting around how high off the ground you are, especially inside the 500-foot level with glass floors. Looking down isn’t for the faint of heart.

WHY WOULD I VISIT TWICE IN ONE DAY?

The Space Needle offers a two-visit package that’s well worth it if you have the time. On a clear day, you’ll enjoy sweeping views of the city, the mountains, and the glittering Puget Sound. Even when it’s gray and drizzly, the city and water views are unparalleled. For your second visit, there are a couple of options. During the summer, Seattle sunsets are sublime, and there’s no better perch than the needle for watching the sun go down over the sound. If you can’t swing sunset, return after dark, when the city sparkles all around you. You can even glimpse ferries gliding through the inky waters of Elliott Bay on their way to the islands in the distance.

WHERE CAN I GET THE BEST SHOTS OF THE SPACE NEEDLE FROM THE GROUND?

You can spot the Space Needle from many parts of the city, but the most famous vantage point is Kerry Park on the south slope of Queen Anne. In a posh part of town, the park features a large terrace that overlooks the city and bay and offers an unobstructed view of the Space Needle. On especially clear days, snow-capped Mt. Rainier rises behind the city just to the right of the Space Needle. Alki Beach in West Seattle also boasts a panoramic view starring the famous landmark.

DO LOCALS EVER VISIT?

Most Seattleites have been to the Space Needle at least a few times, usually with out-of-town visitors in tow. On the Fourth of July and New Year’s Eve, locals pour into Seattle Center to ooh and aah at fireworks above the Space Needle. World-famous local radio station KEXP, which has its HQ in Seattle Center, provides music for the elaborate explosions of light and color.

SHOULD I BUY TICKETS IN ADVANCE?

There are definitely advantages to buying tickets in advance, especially during the peak summer season. Tickets are timed so you don’t have to wait in line for long. The downside? You might pick a day with lousy weather (though it’s still worth going!). You can pre-purchase tickets the day of your visit, as well, to save a bit of cash and guarantee your spot.

ARE THERE ANY DISCOUNTS OR PACKAGE DEALS?

If you plan to do a lot of exploring, you’ll save up to 45 percent using the popular Seattle CityPASS ticket booklet. For $115 (or $87 for kids 12 and under), the pass, which lasts for nine days from first use, includes a day/night admission (good for two visits in 24 hours) to the Space Needle, as well as tickets to the Seattle Aquarium, plus three option tickets for your choice of the Argosy Harbor Cruise, MoPOP, the Woodland Park Zoo, and Chihuly Garden and Glass.

HOW DO I GET THERE?

The Seattle Center Monorail must’ve seemed so futuristic when it was built for the World’s Fair in 1962. Today it’s a charming throwback that whisks tourists from Westlake Center—close to many of Seattle’s hotels—to Seattle Center. One-way fares are $3.25 for adults and $1.50 for kids 5 to 12 (kids under 5 are free). You can also get to the Space Needle by foot, bus, or car, but riding the monorail is a classic part of the experience.

Seattle Today

Seattle doesn’t stand on convention. From its well-earned reputation for quirky music and art to its laid-back population of obsessive foodies, the city defies easy categorization. You’re as likely to see millionaires riding the bus as PhDs behind the counter at a coffee shop. Grizzled fishermen at Ballard bars mingle with mustachioed hipsters, techies in performance clothing, and tattooed moms. It’s an international city, with a strong Asian influence and a history of innovation. This is a place that successfully rallied for the statewide legalization of marijuana, yet people still refuse to jaywalk, even during protests.

TODAY’S SEATTLE

…is influenced by its environment. The Seattleite way of life is shaped by the mountains, water, and massive evergreen trees that hang like verdant shrouds over Craftsman homes. You can see it in Seattleite fashion—for many, waterproof gear and sensible shoes take precedence over trends. You can see it in the hobbies—Seattle is thought to have the highest ownership of pleasure boats per capita in the country, and this outdoorsy, active population is constantly on a hike, bike, or paddle adventure (REI started here for a reason). With such a connection to nature, Seattleites are rabid recyclers and composters and the city has enacted a ban on Styrofoam takeout containers, plastic bags, and plastic straws. The rain makes the population introspective and dark—which they channel into wildly imaginative writing, art, and music.

…is highly educated. This is a city of nerds. Go ahead, make that obscure reference to Hessian fighters or binary code—you’ll find an appreciative audience. Seattle is the most educated city in the country, and constantly vies for most literate with Minneapolis. It has always attracted educated, creative people, from the first influx of Boeing engineers and University of Washington students to today’s high-tech innovators.

…is liberal, progressive, and alternative. One of the most liberal cities in the country, Seattle can be counted on to vote overwhelmingly Democrat in any given election. This progressive hotbed is also host to one of the largest LGBTQ+ populations, one of the highest mixed-race populations nationwide, and a hugely influential alternative press—including The Stranger and various neighborhood blogs. Which is not to say they’re always tolerant, especially when it comes to politicizing treatment of marginalized and houseless people.

…is growing. Fast. With a near-constant influx of newcomers arriving, the population is growing ahead of the national average. Transplants now outweigh natives—a fact many old-timers lament. Hemmed by the geographical limits of mountains and water, the city has had no choice but to expand skyward. Density is growing, as are light rail and other forms of mass transit. And not a moment too soon, as roads and housing are bursting at the seams. Luckily, the city is walkable and bikeable, and most neighborhoods are well equipped with all the necessities within walking distance.