Wisdom and Wit From the Blind

By Jim James and Wendell R Calrson

Wisdom and Wit From the Blind

Wisdom and Wit From The Blind is the result of over 30 years of published  and non-published articles and short stories written by legendary call maker Wendell Carlson and World Champion Duck Caller and call maker Jim James. In this book is compiled articles that span from the early 1980s through

• Language: English
• Publisher: Bois d'arc Publishing
• Release date: Dec 10, 2019
• ISBN: 9781087853659

Jim James

British born Jim James has built businesses from a suitcase on 3 continents over 25 years, all using public relations. His first brush with #gettingnoticed was at 18 when he jumped out of a plane in return for sponsorship and received expedition equipment in return for media publicity. He hasn't stopped this model of brand+business building ever since.Having grown up in Europe, Africa and America, Jim moved to Singapore in 1995 at the age of 28 to open EASTWEST Public Relations. Since 1995 he has served over 500 clients including some well known and some less well known brands including Philips, Nokia, and Blackberry. He has opened, and closed in some cases, offices in Singapore, China, India and the UK. In Singapore his Agency was awarded SME of the Year (2002) by the British Chamber of Commerce.Living in Beijing, China, between 2006 - 2019, Jim built the business importing and distributing Morgan Motor Company cars, was interim CEO of Lotus cars, importer of WAKE Drinks, Vice Chair of the Chamber of Commerce, founder and Chairman of the bi-annual British Business Awards, and Founder President of the Entrepreneurs Organization Beijing Chapter. In China Jim was awarded the Global Business Innovation Award - Foreign Entrepreneur in China in 2017 by Top Touch Publishing.Jim returned with his young family to the UK in June 2019, and still works with clients to ensure that they are able to get noticed for all that they do, and helps companies to enter the Asia market. He hosts "The UnNoticed Entrepreneur," a podcast for entrepreneurs with tools and tips for public relations.

Book preview

Part 1

Wisdom from the Blind

Articles by Wendell Carlson

COMPETITION CALLING

WATERFOWLER’S WORLD magazine May 1982 – Wendell Carlson

Well, maybe they can call judges, but I'll bet they can't call ducks!

I guess we've all heard the above statement. Maybe you've even been the one to say it! I've been reading sporting magazines for over fifty years now and I've hunted and fished all of that time. I've heard and seen more than a few things in those years, but I’ve seen very few articles about com-petition calling. Earlier I suspected this was the case, because so few were interested in the subject. But as the years have rolled along, I've observed a more and more positive attitude develop toward the subject. So, I must conclude that there is considerable interest in it -even if not necessarily always positive.

Maybe it all looks like a waste of time and a lot of work to some people. I'm sure others would say the same about duck hunting! Possibly it's too technical for many readers. But that also could apply to many articles concerning ballistics, dog training, and bass fishing. All in all, I think our answer lies in several reasons. Not the least of which are ignorance and fear. Don’t confuse ignorance with stupidity. Ignorance is curable with knowledge. Stupidity is terminal.

So, first let’s clear up the ignorance part with some information:

In my years as a sportsman I've hunted waterfowl from Saskatchewan to Stuttgart and if I've learned one thing for sure, it simply is that I don't have all the answers. Neither do I have all the answers concerning competition calling, but as with hunting, I’ve kept on trying and learning. I'm a former competition calling champion, call craftsman and the creator of the copywritten Carlson System of Call Operation. As a result, I've had more than a little contact with competition callers. There are not a lot of World Champions. Under 65, alive or dead in the men's division; and far fewer world champion caliber call craftsmen. Let me also point out that while the call must be more an instrument than a call, so must the caller be more a violinist than a fiddler. In short, the call must possess the design qualities necessary to make it a winner, but it's no better than the operator. It works both ways

Why would anyone want to become involved in competition calling? A fair question, to which I reply, Why would anyone want to break 100 straight on the range or put years of time and effort into field trial dogs, or wear out a gun at skeet? All these questions have the same answer. The individual involved is not satisfied to be just good. He wants to be the best. A real competitor. A champion at heart. He loves what he would achieve and is willing to work for it. Not everyone can or wants to achieve this competency level. Most sportsmen who become involved in what I call the spin-off sports of hunting do so because they enjoy their activities during the hunting season and have found ways to extend their interests into the rest of the year. Not a bad plan.

Let's now consider another point. Just because a man consistently breaks 95+ plus doesn't necessarily make him a fine wing shot--but don't bet on it! He probably didn't develop the cap-ability to get to that level of competency by having only a passing interest in hunting. And there is my point. By the time a competition caller of any consistent degree of success gets to that level, he has generally been through the mill of hunting or he wouldn't be there. Over the years it has been my pleasure to know many fine competition callers and generally all of them come to life at the sound of the subject of waterfowl hunting. They mostly love it, or they wouldn't have put out the considerable amount of time, talent, and effort that it takes to be a serious contender in com-petition calling today. Calling judges is different from calling ducks, and all the skills needed for success in one does not necessarily guarantee success in the other. But, unless one has been through the duck hunting mill it's a slim chance he'll ever even get into the competition mill, let alone be successful.

As you have probably long ago concluded, there are duck calls and duck calls. But no matter how good a call you may use, two additional things are at least as important to success in the field or on the stage. They are enthusiastic study and determination. To be successful in any competition you need much more than just a casual interest in the subject. You must eat and sleep call operation and practice with purpose; not just blow a call. You must approach it in a workmanlike manner. Also, you must have an appropriate call design if you are to have any chance of becoming a champion. I'm well aware of the fact that sometimes ducks can be called in with a poor call blown by an even poorer caller. But we are not talking about those rare days when you can hardly keep the ducks away. In fact, we aren't talking about calling ducks; rather we’re talking about calling judges.

Competitions are not judged by ducks; but by judges who, to do more good than harm, must be knowledgeable concerning what really constitutes expert call operation. Judges who are, hopefully, themselves champions and are current as to what is winning in the major competition meets today--not ten years ago, or at some local Podunk Junction river tavern duck blow. I'm also sure that there are some who will say, Whether or not a call is a good worker is only a matter of opinion. That may be true to a point. BUT the point is that some opinions are worth a lot more than others. Further, in this day of technology nearly anything can be measured and understood. This includes the characteristics of a waterfowl call. It’s also been my observation over many years that the characteristics that constitute a really fine working call design are basically the same things universally demanded by really expert call operators. They simply will not use a call that doesn’t offer the stability, versatility and consistent interface with advanced call operational technique that they demand. Not demanded because it’s the current call to use. Demanded because they have learned over the years that unless they have a call that gives them this needed support, they simply cannot do their best. In short, they’ll never be better than their call, whether in the field or on the stage. No one can get sounds out of a call that are not designed into that call; no matter how versatile and expert he may be. However, you can bet he’ll be able to get everything out of even a poor call that it has to offers. But he’ll not use it. Once he’s become accustomed to cake, he’ll never again be satisfied eating moldy bread!

The World Champion Duck Calling Competition is held in Stuttgart, Arkansas and there are a lot of good duck callers down there. You may not agree, but if you are in a World Sanctioned State or Regional Competition you can bet that part, or all, of the first prize will be the winner goes to Stuttgart to compete in the World Championship Duck Calling Contest. So, when in Rome do as the Romans do. Whether you go to Stuttgart to hunt ducks and/or compete in the World you'd better listen to the locals before you open up on your call. After over sixty years of World Champion Duck Calling Competitions, they must know what they are doing. Also be advised that judges there can be invited from nearly anywhere. Hopefully they are all current experts. The worst dread of the serious competition champion is to be judged by incompetent judges at any competition.

In my years of hunting and competition calling I've been in more than a few discussions concerning what constitutes fact and opinion regarding calls and call operation. As with any judged competition, degree of difficulty must be a consideration. This tests equipment and ability to their maximum. In my younger days more than a few arguments were stopped by simply saying, "OK, you perform any duck calling or competition series you want to on your call and I'll bet I can duplicate or match them. Then let me do likewise and we'll see if you can do the same. Degree of difficulty and versatility are hard to argue with. We all know that there are many factors that determine whether or not ducks can be called. But I think that we will all agree that operational mastery of a call that really functions are important elements of success. That's a point that is obviously true both in the field and on the stage.

Now let's deal with fear part mentioned earlier:

I've heard some Big Bad Hunters of the Swamp sound pretty tough at 4 a.m., but there are very few hunters who have the guts to get up in front of several hundred hunters, callers and judges and prove their mettle. Yes, bellowing in the dark at a supposed threat seems to be a Neanderthal characteristic that is apparently difficult for some duck hunters to rid themselves of, usually the same type that still must learn that you can't judge the success of the hunt by the size of the bag. But when it's just the individual and his call alone in front of the crowd--that's another matter.

So, what does all that have to do with competition duck calling? In a word, sportsmanship. Another observation I've made over the years is that self-improvement is a vital step toward the creation of a considerate sportsman. Generally, whenever a hunter understands he must meet or beat his competition fair and square, he begins to understand that it takes thought and effort to achieve this. It really doesn't seem to matter where he starts--trap shooting, dog training, decoy study, duck calling, habitat improvement, etc. Usually improvement in one area will lead to improvements in other areas. The point is, he's thinking instead of bellowing. We all profit from that. I believe most serious duck hunters would sooner compete with a knowledgeable hunting sportsman any day than an ignorant slob swing-shooter. Competition duck calling is an excellent way to develop this tendency that is so vital to all of us. If hunting is to survive we need thinking sportsmen in our ranks who understand there's no such thing as a free hunt.

Competition calling requires many things, not the least of which is the guts to get up. Talk is cheap. Like the old boy said, There ain't nothin' to it if YOU don't have to do it. Keep in mind there are always far more losers than winners. And, as in any competition, luck plays a part. Competition calling is also a great way for young people (Junior Division) to learn about sportsmanship, how to win and how to lose. But, even if you never win any tournament, you'll profit from the experi-ence; and you'll sure be in shape to greet those ducks next opening. The practice that makes for mastery of the call, so vital in successful competition calling, is a great aid in calling ducks. Of course, you must be able to read the ducks, and be where there are some callable ducks. Assuredly, you'll be able to make your call do what you want it to if you put out what it takes.

On the other hand, you may be surprised to learn that it’s long been my observation that calling ducks is detrimental to one’s serious competition calling capability. One reason for this is that to call ducks you must read ducks. This requires concentration. As a result, your mind is on the birds, not the precise operational technique that competition calling demands. Reasonably callable ducks aren’t nearly as fussy as really competent judges. Gradually, as the season wears on, one gets sloppy. In fact, most of his actual duck calling becomes a matter of automatic responses to what the birds body language says to the experienced caller. Further, when calling ducks, one is often confronted with considerable changes in the acoustical environment. This often requires drastic changes in calling volume. As a result, the caller is well advised to use an appropriate call for the job at hand. This means he must change calls as necessary. Conversely, with competition calling one is well advised to get a top-notch call that’s designed for that job and stick with it once he is sure it's the right call for him.

It’s also been my longtime observation that the vast majority of competition callers are first and foremost serious duck hunters. If he didn’t love the calling part of hunting, he’d never have gotten into competition calling in the first place. He wants to be able to use his call year around. So, he sure isn’t going to give up his waterfowl calling so as not to degrade his competition calling operational expertise. No, he’ll do both. BUT, it’s tough duty to come off a season of hunting calling and try to switch immediately to serious competition calling. This is a real disadvantage to Northern callers whose duck season often closes around Thanksgiving Day. That’s often nearly the same time the season is just opening in parts of the South. The World Championship is traditionally held on the Saturday after Thanksgiving Day. So it goes. If you want to play hardball with the big boys, that’s the place to do it. No whining allowed.

Competition calling offers many rewards--and aggravations! It's not unlike duck hunting in that respect. In reality, it's somewhat of a sport unto itself that's not well understood by most duck hunters and certainly not by the public in general. Maybe you should try it. Well, think about it. Even if you never get involved in tournament calling I hope that next time you enter into a discussion concerning the subject you'll be better informed and understand something of what it takes to be a serious contender in today's demanding level of competition calling. One thing for sure. If you get screwed into serious competition calling, I promise you you’ll become a far better duck caller as a result.

DECOYS THAT DO THE JOB

WATERFOWLER’S WORLD magazine 1984 – Wendell Carlson

Very few things seem to be getting less expensive. So why should decoys be any different? There isn’t much that we can do about the cost, but there are some things that we can do to get more good out of the decoys that we have or intend to buy.

Sometimes the logical seems to be overlooked. I’ve seen guys hunting with heavy, expensive, keel-weighted, magnum decoys. Nothing wrong with that except that they were being used in a small pothole and backpacked in and out every day! Even a few pounds can make a lot of difference at the end of a day of mud stomping. If you are a walk-in hunter without a permanent blind, it’s a good idea to keep your pack weight down.

Probably one of the best tradeoffs between weight and a decoy that works yet is super light and compact, is the thin rubber design with an open hole in the bottom surrounded by a metal ring. Such a decoy is still manufactured by Deeks Inc., P.O. Box 911, Hillsboro, Ore. 97123. A dozen or two rolled up and stashed in a small backpack containing a few other necessities can be a practical and effective rig for the walk-in hunter. Decoys of this design self-inflate when you toss them out. A small marble pocket in the breast makes a secure tie for your anchor line. If powdered and stored in a cool dry place, they’ll last for years.

Another type of design that is functional but doesn’t force you to carry around a lot of weight is the water keel model. As the name indicates, the keel fills with water when in use and aids the decoy in maintaining an upright position, even in a rather stiff breeze. Several manufacturers make versions of this design, among them Carry-Lite of Milwaukee, Wis. and Flambeau Products Corp. of Baraboo, Wis. They also make the weighted keel type decoys.

If your brand of waterfowling finds you on big rough water or out on windy days with the waves rolling, you’ll need a heavy decoy with plenty of keel weight; a good self-righting design that stays upright even in a stiff blow. Since it takes a tough mudstomper to carry in a dozen of these on his back, they usually are used in a permanent blind situation or a semi-permanent boat in blind.

No decoy design can be all things to all waterfowlers. Too many variables are involved, but here is a tip that can help you get more flexibility of application. The water keel type of decoy manufactured by Flambeau has an open ended rectangular-shaped keel. It does a good job as is, but if you want to convert it back and forth between a heavy keel and water keel design, try this trick. Buy or make some lead strap decoy anchors. Bend a little zigzag into them and push them into the open keel. A little experimenting will have you on the right track as to bend and pressure requirements to affect a secure fit. They’ll ride well in a stiff blow on big water yet can be used as a carry in decoy simply by removing your added keel weight. Sand can also be used in other water keel decoy designs. Seal the keel ends carefully by first roughing up the plastic with course sandpaper and applying a couple of coats of bathtub type sealer. Use dry sand and occasionally check your seals for any sign of leaks. If your decoys are used or stored in freezing conditions any water in the sand in the keels can expand and possibly crack them.

Decoys that are light, easy to carry, and work well in a very gentle breeze are generally too unstable in a good blow. Big heavy ones that do a fine job in waves and wind are dead as a rock on a blue bird day. The trick of changing keel weight can be a real help, to say nothing of the fringe benefit of always having some extra anchors handy.

The end-all, answer-all decoy will never be made. The same can be said of lots of other hunting equipment. That’s why shotguns are made in various gauges and why duck calls that work come in soft, medium, and loud volume ranges. So, it is with decoys available in light, medium and heavy types as well as standard, magnum and super magnum. Special situations call for special equipment, but most of us most of the time, can get along pretty well in the middle of the road. The 12-gauge isn’t always just the ticket, neither is the general application (mid-volume) call, but these like the mid-sized and mid-weight decoys, will serve many of us quite well a good share of the time. As our requirements and investments in hunting expand, so will our specialized equipment.

One of the good middle-of-the-road decoys currently available is the magnum offered by G&H Decoy Mfg. Co., P.O. Box 937, Henrietta, Ok. 74437. It moves well even in a light breeze, doesn’t blow over too badly even in a stiff wind and is self-righting. Additionally, the paint pattern looks good and stays on well. It is large enough to offer good visibility yet light enough to allow one to carry in enough of them to set out a respectable spread. Sort of a 12-gauge decoy.

Decoys are made of a lot of different materials. Patching them when they are damaged or require repainting calls for the correct approach if you want to do a good job. Some thought and common sense before starting the task is in order. Many of the plastic decoys have a slick surface that doesn’t hold paint or sealers well. Try roughing up the surface with course sandpaper before applying even the correct materials, to help them hold better. Before attempting to repair any decoy be sure it is as dry as possible both inside and out. Another trick you may want to try is welding shot holes shut with a small soldering iron. The heavy plastic hollow ones are easiest to repair. Use kind of a painting approach, being careful not to get the area too hot or you may melt a hole. This should be done in a well-ventilated area.

Over the years, decoys have been made from just about everything imaginable. I knew of a guy that used to push short sticks into the sand and hang beer cans on them! Just like with calling and blind design, if the ducks want in bad enough you can get by with a multitude of sins! Plastic gallon milk jugs with appropriate paint work pretty well and the price is hard to beat. Five-gallon buckets with sealable tops are sort of a magnum version. I’ve heard of a guy that had a spread of about 500 of these. I suppose a super mag-version of this would be 55-gallon drums. I’ve heard of a few hunters that have tried this method, but it’s sure not for everybody.

A compromise approach is offered by Hunters Specialties, 5285 Rockwell Dr. N.E., Cedar Rapids, Iowa. They have a kit available that includes a molded head and keel that snaps onto the 2-liter size plastic Coke bottle. Both cost and weight are minimal and offer another way to stretch your decoy dollar.

Proper care in transporting of your decoys will go a long way toward increasing their useful life. Bag or bin them to and from in your boat. Loose decoys in the bottom of a duck boat, to step on and trip over in the dark, can present a hazard to more than just the decoys!

I hope you’ve found a new idea or two and will join me next time when we have a look at decoy lines, anchors, and rigs.

DECOY RIGS, LINES AND ANCHORS

WATERFOWLER’S WORLD 1984 – Wendell Carlson

As was pointed out in our recent article concerning decoys, different conditions and situations call for different types. So it is with their anchors, lines, and the way they are rigged. Simple fixed blind type hunting in a sheltered area often requires no more than some fish line and a few half bricks (the kind with holes through them). As a hunter's mobility and waterfowling flexibility increase, so do his needs for better and more versatile rigging techniques.

If your brand of waterfowling involves puttin' ‘em out and pickin’ ‘em up only once a season, you are fortunate indeed. As more and more hunters turn to waterfowling and our habitat and hunting environment continue to shrink, there just aren't enough traditional places to go around. Many of us find it necessary to hunt public areas and other one day stand situations. Specific equipment and weight considerations vary, depending upon whether a boat-in or walk-in approach is used. But in either case a fast, efficient, and secure method of rigging and handling decoys is a must.

Of all the many types of anchors that I've tried over the years, I've found that the lead strap ones come closest to solving the various problems presented. It's not an end all answer all but will usually fill the bill--sort of a 12-gauge type of anchor. They are commercially available in various weights and lengths. Decoy size, water current, bottom conditions, wind and so forth are all factors that determine anchor design, size and line lengths that will result in the best rig for you. If you aren't able to find ones that suit you, or if you are a do-it-yourselfer by nature, molds are available. If you are a good scrounger you should be able to find some sheet lead from which you can cut your own. Old telephone cable with a lead outer covering works fine when cut to proper length. Remove the wire from it and flatten it or cut it into strips depending on its size and your needs. Construction companies sometimes have it available as salvage from job sites or try scrap metal dealers. The softer and purer the lead the better. Bullet lead, wheel weights, and other lead with hardening alloys added should not be used. Your anchors must be soft for long service and a quick, secure wrap around the decoy neck.

If you choose to use other types of anchors, a heavy short rubber band can be attached to them and used to secure them to your decoy’s necks. However, if your brand of waterfowling involves travel, the lead strap wrap around the neck is hard to beat. Anchors that don't fall off don't get the lines tangled during transportation. This also avoids decoy and paint damage as well as unnecessary fussing, cussing and wasted hunting time spent untangling a ball of decoys, anchors and lines.

Anchor lines are another deceptively simple appearing problem to solve. If you want to go where the ducks are, it's not uncommon to put out and pick up a hundred or more magnum decoys once or twice each day. Large rather stiff rot-proof line about 3/16 of an inch, or even 1/4 inch is best. It's the most tangle-free and easiest on the hands. Constant exposure to water, cold, and wind get the hands chapped and cracked badly enough without adding to the problem with small line cutting them too. Working some petroleum jelly into the hands before bedtime helps keep them in better condition. Large line also is much easier to handle when late season cold forces the use of rubber gloves. Such line is sold commercially in olive drab. Also, if you keep your eyes open, sometimes rot-proof line of appropriate size can be bought in bulk, and cost sharing with some buddies can represent sizeable savings. If you get white line be sure to test it for dyeing before making a large purchase. Regular clothing dye works well when a strong solution and extra boiling time is used. Make a loosely looped lasso of the line that will fit in your dyeing container. A broken camouflage pattern is best and can be obtained by first dyeing your line olive drab. Unroll it and let it dry. Next, re-loop it and place one end of the loops in another batch of strong black dye. Obviously, any appropriate color combination you choose can be used.

Large spreads of decoys that are left out for the entire season and exposed to wind, weather, and brush carried in by the current can present some special problems. Heavy anchors must be used. Half-gallon paper milk containers are some-times used as a form to be filled with concrete into which a strong wire loop is imbedded. Large goose de-coy spreads can require over a ton of such anchors. If large brush or even a whole tree drifts through your spread, when you are not there, no anchor is a guarantee against loss of some decoys.

Another method of anchoring all season decoys is to tie your decoy lines at irregular intervals to strong wire tied between heavy weights, such as concrete building blocks. The soldier-like appearance they present usually doesn't seem to bother the ducks. Lengths of old heavy chain can also be used and, if properly laid out, can make for a more natural looking spread.

Ice floating through your spread can be the cause of real problems. Strips of inner tube two or three inches wide and two or three feet long can be of help. Tightly wrap the ends of the strips with strong wire to which good snap swivels are attach-ed. Placing these between your anchor lines and decoys will not only avoid cut lines but also will make it more difficult for ice and brush to drag your anchors away.

Over the years, various mechanical decoys and anchor line devices have been offered. The damage resulting from the harsh environment in which they are used, along with the noise they usually make generally have limited their practical effectiveness. Bluebird days that cause your decoys to appear dead as stones present a problem for which many solutions have been offered. Decoys flying on wires stretched between posts, wind up and battery powered swimming decoys, and other devices have been tried. The old dipper decoy is silent, simple and hard to beat. Simply tie a dark colored line to the front anchor hole on your decoy and pass it under a forked stick that has been firmly pushed into the bottom. Choosing one with the correct natural design will have a long enough handle to avoid getting a wet arm yet will not interfere with the dipping and movement of the decoy. Bring the free end of the line into the blind. As ducks shy away from your dead decoys, add some life to the spread by a few tugs on the line. Not only will your dipper work, but also the ripples it creates will add a little movement to other nearby decoys.

Automatic decoy line adjustments, whether built into the decoy or the anchor, are a good idea and may work in some conditions, but mud, sand, and rust can soon have them fouled up. Excess line can be wrapped on the strap type anchor if not too much shortening is required. Simply bend part of the anchor back onto itself to hold the length you require at that particular hunting spot. Also, additional short lengths of decoy line, with snap swivels on each end, can be added to or re-moved from your regular lines as necessary for various water depths. Correct line length adds life to a spread and avoids tangled decoys.

The J hook decoy spread can be very effective in snagging ducks and leading them into your spread pocket. This is especially true of divers. The problem of holding your line of 'leaders" can be solved by this trick. Tie weights to both ends of 75 yards or more of good nylon line. Pop top can rings (less the little wing), or other small rings, are tied at various locations several feet apart along its length. Next attach short (1 or 2 feet) lines with snap swivels to the necessary number of decoys you intend to use in this manner. Simply snapping your leader decoys on or off your lead line makes for a fast and tangle free arrangement Needless to say, don't put out the line without first attaching at least one decoy or it'll sink! Wrapping your lead line up on a short piece of 1 x 4 not only keeps it tangle free but avoids its sinking if accidentally dropped over-board.

When picking up you may want to try this. Cut a small notch in your oar blade edge to help catch and hold the anchor lines as you snag them from the boat. Motoring through a spread, to pick up, can be a good way to get lines tangled in the propeller. Try tossing your anchor into the wind or current and pull yourself through the spread, picking up decoys as you go. This is a safe, controlled and effective method, especially in water that is too deep to wade. After a pass has been completed simply motor into position to start another pass. If one anchor throw doesn't get you across the spread, pull it in quickly when you have worked up to it, and give it another toss.

The great many ways and places that waterfowl is hunted offers endless problems and challenges. I hope you've found some suggestions here that will help you enjoy more successful and rewarding waterfowling

SECRET CALLING TIPS

WATERFOWLER’S WORLD magazine 1984 – Wendell Carlson

There’s an old saying that goes, a little knowledge is a dangerous thing. If this concept gets far enough out of hand, it can even result in a waterfowler getting lost, drowned, shot or frozen. Usually though, it manifests itself in more normal occurrences, like scaring all the ducks away for everybody within earshot of a poor caller. He has little knowledge of the subject and is dangerous to all but the waterfowl!

On the other end of the balance, we have sportsmen who have thoughtfully and purposefully work-ed at improving the various skills employed in waterfowling. Not enough of them! I suppose we’ll all agree that you can’t expect to get more out of something than you put into it. Yet, somehow, our good intentions often seem to fade away as other interests and tasks sweep us along, only to find that next season we are as poor as ever. Invitations are scarce, and only with guys we can’t learn from since they haven’t any significant mastery of the sport either.

What to do? There are three possibilities: get better, get worse or get out. To settle for status quo in any competitive situation simply implies getting worse. Since many of your competitors will be improving and pass you by. If you feel that you could derive more enjoyment and success from your waterfowling if you put a little more into it, you’re heading the right direction.

There’s lots of help and good information available, but no one will make you learn it except yourself. I hope you’ll find some new thoughts and ideas here as we consider a few secret calling tips.

A secret is a secret only as long as you don’t know it. But helpful information that you know, and choose not to try, may just as well be a secret. The most important information that I can pass along is the fact that really good calling doesn’t come quick and easy. Nor does it come with a poor call and bad instruction. It requires first a call that really works, then the ability to properly operate it and the skill to read the ducks. How good you get it all together is up to you. But give yourself time. There is no substitute for practice or for the time needed to develop your mind/body coordination.

Once you have a reasonable degree of skill it’s time to give ‘em a try. Not much teaches a guy more respect for a skillful caller than trying to call waterfowl himself. Few things about the game are ever constant and it takes lots of work and practice to put enough tricks in your bag to become skilled.

No matter how good a caller you are, if the ducks or judges can’t hear you, you are wasting your time and breath. Your call must be loud enough to do the job. On the other side of the coin, you can easily scare your prey away if you don’t adjust your volume for conditions that call for soft or low volume calling. Still days, small areas, close in or spooky ducks are all good reasons to keep it soft.

Probably one of the least understood secret calling methods is team calling. With the right group of guys, it’s dynamite! I know of nothing that can compete with it. By the time a group of hunters get good enough to properly use this method, they’ve also gotten it all together well enough to use a good blind and decoy setup. But team calling is not to be confused with gang calling. Gang calling implies everybody doing his own thing. Egomania reigns supreme and arguments and no ducks are the result.

To be really effective, team calling requires a half dozen or so waterfowlers who are all good callers and good hunters. The main advantage of team calling is that, if really well done, you’ll sound like a whole reserve! You also have the volume to get their attention, even on windy days. When properly done, callers drop out and decrease volume as the flock approached.

Successful team calling requires capable mature sportsmen who know what they are doing, can work together well in general, and don’t suffer from egomania. The whole project doesn’t develop overnight. Like competition calling, it’s not everybody’s cup of tea. But if you are really dedicated to water-fowling, there’s nothing else quite like it and it’s well worth the time and effort.

Birds that are very smart and wary sometimes seem to associate the standard blind, decoy, calling set up with danger. So, try changing the standard calling. Instead of trying to make them think the decoys are doing the calling, try calling out the back of the blind instead of the front. I’ve seen this backward calling work in the odd situation and perhaps could be considered a trick that you may want to try too.

As you’ve no doubt figured out by now, I’m not much on gimmicks. But you may also want to try this one. If the normal hi ball/greeting work up isn’t getting the job done, on rare situations I have seen ducks respond to the 500-pound quack. Cup your hands around your call bell and blow the loudest quacks you can at a rate of about one every other second, directly at the flock. If they do start to respond reduce the volume as necessary as judged by their approach reactions. I’ve seen it work when nothing else would, but sure don’t recommend a steady diet of it!

The last tip I’ll offer here is more in the way of a suggestion than a secret and you may already use it. At any rate, here it is. On those blue bird days when your call seems to be scaring the ducks away no matter how softly you try to blow it, give this a try. Softly blow your call into the crook of your arm or even down into your coat or shirt front. This, along with sparing use of your call, has been known to turn the trick, so to speak.

I guess the bottom line is simply this. First, learn what works — at least generally. Then if you want to experiment, fine. Remember that unusual or odd-ball tactics are unusual because they aren’t normally used. Generally, you can bet they have already been tried and aren’t used simply because they just don’t usually work! Nothing works all the time and for that we should be thankful. Without the uncertainties and mystery that accompany us on each hunting trip, waterfowling would lose much of its charm and appeal and probably many of its followers

CARE AND FEEDING OF YOUR CALL

WATERFOWLER’S WORLD magazine May 1984 – Wendell Carlson

One of the best things about the many years I have spent hand crafting custom calls is the unique opportunity it has given me to cross paths with so many fine sportsmen—waterfowlers from all over the United States and Canada who are interested in improving their hunting and calling. We have learned a lot from each other over the years. It seems that no matter how much time I spend afield or in research and development, I never have all the answers. The endless places and ways waterfowl are hunted, along with the multitude of various hunting conditions, can be a downright humbling consideration.

But, different as specifics may be, some things are the same. It’s these common denominator questions that have some meaning to most of us. I’ll pass along some thoughts about them in this article. Not all of them, to be sure, but a few answers to some questions that seem to keep popping up regularly. With this in mind, I hope you’ll gain some new insights into the care and feeding of your call. Next issue we’ll be back with a look at some special calling techniques, such as team calling for hunting.

Why do calls sometimes seem to lose it, sometimes slowly and sometimes all at once, but always when you seem to need them most? Probably the most frequent reason for a call that did work fine to lose some of its operational capability is reed damage. If reeds are not damaged and sounding surfaces are kept clean, they’ll work right for years and years. But a call often leads a hard life. Duck hunters aren’t famous for being careful, clean and neat! As a result, reeds get bent and dis-torted and junk gets on the sounding surface of the insert.

The most common causes of reed damage are heat and carelessness. Use care in putting the insert (stopper, keg, front part, whatever you call it) into the barrel. Hold the reed down with the index finger as you replace the insert. This way it can’t catch and bend—even in the dark. Pull the insert partly out occasionally, especially when first putting a call back into service, and reseat it carefully. This assures you that you’ll be able to remove it when necessary and that it’s tightly seated so as not to become lost.

When junk gets under a reed, it must be removed if a call is to function correctly. If an insert is stuck in the barrel, it’s impossible to properly clean the sounding surface. Using excessive force in an attempt to get your call apart can cause damage. The best bet is to not let it get stuck in the first place. If it does get stuck, it’s best to set your call where it’s comfortably warm and dry until it will properly come apart. Don’t put your call on the defroster of your pickup or car, or in the clothes dryer. Don’t put it in the oven or blow a hair dryer down into it. And don’t put it in a vise and use a pipe wrench on it!

If you’ll keep your call where you are reasonably comfortable, it will be comfortable too. Calls are tough and meant to be used, but just like your binos, compass, fishing reels, etc., not to be abused.

Soft junk on the sounding surface, such as food, tobacco, feathers, and so on is no real problem. Simply disassemble the call and clean it with a clean, soft dry cloth.

Hard or sharp junk under the reed is another problem altogether. Usually this problem begins with the fact that the mouthpiece gets wet when you blow your call. Next sand, grit, metal pieces and about anything you can imagine stick to it. Next time you blow it, most junk will go on through, but once in a while a tiny particle will stay under the reed. The reed, of course, strikes the sounding surface and can literally drive the hard or sharp piece of material into the sounding surface. Once in, the reed keeps on striking whatever sticks up above the rest of the sounding surface. The result is a call that doesn’t work probably and also, perhaps, a cracked reed.

When you consider the fact that the reed, on a hi ball for instance, strikes the surface literally thousands of times each second, and that I commonly work in surface design controls of less than half the thickness of the sheet of paper you are now reading, you begin to understand why junk on or in the sounding surface cannot be tolerated. If you suspect that you have this problem with your call, there are a couple of things you should do and a couple of things you should not do.

The best way around this problem is to not let it happen in the first place. Don’t carry your call in your pocket. It’s full of small junk! Not only is there sand and grit from hands, the pockets themselves act as strainers when in the washing machine and can catch and hold anything, even small slivers of metal. Carry your call on a lanyard inside your shirt or coat front. It’ll stay clean, protected and warmer. A call that has been dropped in the sand or mud should not be blown until after you have had a chance to disassemble it and thoroughly clean it inside and out in warm running water with a toothbrush. Carefully dry it and reassemble it exactly as it was. Note the reed position, alignment, and which side was up. If the retainer (cork) seems a bit too loose, put it in your mouth and, after it’s thoroughly wet and soft, gently press it lengthwise and edgewise with your teeth (never flat) to fatten it up a little. Use caution when doing this and also when replacing it into the insert retainer slot so as not to crack or chip it. If the forward end of the reed is not firmly held in place, not only can the reed improperly align laterally, with the sounding surface, but its back end will not be lifted the correct distance above the insert’s air ramp. This condition will cause a number of problems in call operation.

So much for a few things you CAN do. Now, on to the ones you shouldn’t do. Don’t bend, shave, twist or in any way fiddle with your reed and never file, shave, sand, paint, or do any messing around with the sounding surface. If you own a call that works, it does so because its maker understands the extremely complex relationship between the sounding surface design and reed function. Don’t screw it up! If you have a junk call I guess it doesn’t matter, but why you would want to waste your time with something that will never work properly, I fail to understand!

If you suspect your call is off its feed and following the cleaning suggestions doesn’t bring it around, then return it to its maker for a refurbishing. Nearly all calls can be put back into good condition again, and it won’t cost you an arm and a leg either.

Calls that really work—if you learn to play them—must pass lots of tests. One of these is its ability to function when damp and cool. The saliva control or spitting question comes up from time to time, so here’s how to handle it.

You’ll note I said, ‘damp and cool,’ not soaked and frozen! No instrument will work when full of spit or frozen. But calls get damp and cool under normal use and should work okay. The same with the spit as with the grit~ If it doesn’t get into the call, you don’t have a problem! Saliva is the first step in digestion. If you insist on nibbling and chewing something all day in the blind, you can expect problems if you use your call. Sooner or later junk and spit will screw it up. But how about those days when you just seem wetter? Or the guy we call the hard case spitter? I used a trick for many years playing saxophone that solves the problem. Simply develop the habit of lifting the tongue a bit when necessary when you inhale. The cool, dry air you pull in deflects off the underside of it down into the saliva pool that collects under the tongue and evaporates it as necessary. Simple, easy, and effective. Less spit in the mouth, less gets into the call. If you keep it out of the call it can’t build up and thicken up (especially if it’s cold weather) and cause the reed to hang up.

Another quick trick to help your call work properly is the reed buzz. Remove the insert from the barrel. Gently place the pointed end of the insert (reed side up) against the center of your lower lip. Now blow steadily into the end of the reed like you were blowing out a candle. With a little experimenting on angle and pressure, you’ll soon have the reed buzzing along nicely. This not only blows excess moisture off of the sounding surface, but also rattles the reed throughout its entire length. This removes the stubborn stuff that likes to hide under the reed at the beginning of the retainer area, Put the insert back in the barrel, blow a couple of solid quacks to check it out and you’re all set.

There are many other questions and answers that we could cover, and perhaps will later, but for now I hope you’ve found something worthwhile here and will join me next time when we consider some secret calling tips.

The Right Tool for The Job or How to Get More Green Heads!

SHOTGUN SPORTS magazine 1985 – Wendell Carlson

How many times have you found yourself in this situation? It's nearly dark. You're pushing to get back to the ramp because you didn't expect to be out so late--but those late feeders led you on--and the old outboard sputters and dies! Digging around anywhere and everywhere you finally find a rusty pair of pliers, which has had one leg sharpened to somewhat resemble a screwdriver. The last word in tool design. The one that will do anything! Strip off bolt heads, break spark plugs, and swedge out screwdriver slots. To say nothing of skinning your fingers and cutting your hand! Good for everything, but not right for anything!

So, it is with duck calls. No, I don't want 15 of them around my neck either. Just like I don't take along a complete compliment of mechanics tools in a roll around tool cabinet in my duck boat! But I do take along a reasonable assortment of necessary tools. I also take along a reasonable choice of necessary calls. There's a lot of grass between Everything but the kitchen sink and nearly nothing at all! That's a fact whether you are talking about tools, duck calls, safety gear, fishing tackle, or etc.

Of course, the problem is that in order for any of the above to be of much value you need to know how to use it. Now, that's another problem. It falls under the category of preparation and education. But, for now, let's get on with duck calls.

Unfortunately, all too many duck hunters seem to think that a couple of toots on a hit or miss call the night before opening constitutes sufficient preparation and practice. Obviously, there is also a lot of grass between that and a championship tournament caller’s consistent practice on a top-quality call. Perhaps these thoughts will help get things into perspective.

Needless to say, the first step toward first rate calling is to get a call that really works. You’ll never any better than your instrument’s design will allow you to become. Sure, it'll cost more than a maybe call. Even if it costs as much as two or three dozen quality decoys, it's a small investment when compared to the cost of one’s total duck hunting equipment investment. If possible, get it from the maker. Buy the one he demonstrates. Buy a good current instructional tape. Learn what a good working call can sound like, if you are willing to put out the time and effort to learn to play it. You can buy lots of things involved with duck hunting, but you can't buy the skill, achievement, and personal satisfaction that comes from being an expert call operator. If you can't travel to the call maker, at least write him or call him. If he really believes in his calls and is proud of his work, he'll be happy to demonstrate them for you, even if just over the telephone. It isn’t as good as being there, but it’s a lot better than having no idea of how his call design sounds. Explain your hunting conditions. He should be able to provide a call that he would use in your hunting environment.

Becoming a really good caller is much like becoming a really good wing shot. Both skills require personal investment, time and commitment. Not everyone can or will become a champion, but we all can improve. That makes for better sportsmanship and hunting for all of us.

Practice, Practice, Practice. How many times have you heard that line touted as the key to success in proper call operation? Truthfully, I can't go along with it. Endless practice without proper direction and guidance only more deeply ingrains old bad habits. So, what's the answer? Practice with purpose! Fifteen or twenty minutes once or twice a day on a call that really works using sensible, meaningful operational instruction. This will not only correct old bad habits, in time, but will also head one up the road to really competent call operation. There is such information available, but you must stay at the task if it's to be of any real benefit to you. Just like practicing proper wing shot technique.

The right tool - or call - for the job and knowing how to use it is a nice ace to be able to play. It often spells the difference between a good and poor hunt. The same hunter that would tell you you’d be a fool to hunt geese with a .410 or woodcock with a 10 gage magnum often thinks nothing of using the same duck call at the same volume level in a timber pot hole on a blue bird day that he'll use over big open water with a 45 mph wind blowing! Why? There are probably several answers, but the bottom line is "There is a better way!

As I mentioned earlier, I don't want a bunch of calls around my neck either. One or two is enough. Sort of the 12-gauge type. Otherwise known as a general purpose call. Not always just the ticket, but it'll usually get you by. Especially if it's a good call that you can properly operate so you can achieve all the necessary calls at various volume levels.

But you can be pretty sure that I'll have a pothole call and an Open Water call along in my gear. They take up very little space. You never know what wind and weather changes will suddenly occur necessitating additional call design flexibility.

Many of today’s duck hunters are very mobile and set up in a variety of hunting environments. This also can require greater call design flexibility, no matter how good you and your general-purpose call may be. A pothole call should be easy to blow. That is, it should require little forward pressure. A low volume call that doesn't crack and bang off of every tree limb. Of course, the ducks must be able to hear you, or it does no good to use it.

I've already covered general purpose calls. The Big Open Water call must be LOUD! A real screamer! Sure, it will take more air and pressure to operate. There are very few things you get more out of than you put in. Efficiency of design, that is proportional volume out for effort in, is another mark of a good call. Even a loud open water call should not be a chore to blow after you have built up your wind while practicing being able to properly operate it.

Duck hunting season is the time of year that all duck hunters live for. It's also the time of year that the weather and wind can change every few hours, or less! Having the right call along for the job at hand can be the ace in the hole that can make it one of those golden days to cherish, or a miserable flop that can haunt you for years!

CALLING Vs. DECOYING

SHOTGUN SPORTS magazine in the mid-1980s

The relative merit or importance of calling versus decoying has been a long-debated issue. If you’ve been a duck or goose hunter very long, you have no doubt heard, and probably been involved in, some of these discussions. Part of the cause of these differing opinions is the fact that waterfowl act and work differently at various times and places. We’ll be looking at some points to consider that can help us to derive the best results from both our calling and decoying.

The best time to study and practice your waterfowling skills is in the Spring. If this one’s past, there is another one coming. Needless to say, leave your gun at home! Also check your location regulations so as to avoid any possible off limits reserve areas. The birds are much less wary and much more sociable at that time of year. Also, you can practice your calling without bothering a lot of other hunters. Remember, too, the blind is a poor place to give any real meaningful effort to learning proper call operation. This is a technical problem that is better solved elsewhere. Learning to Read the waterfowl is another problem altogether. This is the ability to Tell ‘em what they want to hear when they want to hear it. This can only be learned effectively in the field. The basics can be studied elsewhere but, in the final analysis it’s the experience of years of hunting that make one truly an expert at this part of waterfowling.

Assuming that you have some