Slave to Fashion

By Safia Minney

Part of a campaign to eradicate slavery in the fashion industry.

A highly accessible book which uses brilliant design, personal stories and easy-to-grasp infographics to raise awareness among common brand consumers.

Funds to research the book were raised through a successful crowdfunding
campaign.

Includes interviews with the people behind the labels working in conditions of modern slavery.

Includes a toolkit chapter with practical advice on what consumers can do to help eradicate slavery.

Publication to coincide with New York Fashion Week, 7-15 September.

Book and campaign endorsed by a host of influential people and organizations, such as Livia Firth, Lucy Siegle, Wayne Hemingway, Caryn Franklin,
Fairtrade Foundation, Greenpeace and many more.

• Language: English
• Publisher: New Internationalist
• Release date: Sep 5, 2017
• ISBN: 9781780263991

Safia Minney

Safia Minney is a pioneer in ethical business. She is the founder of Fair Trade and sustainable fashion label, People Tree, and now brings her expertise and experience to help businesses embrace sustainability and transparency in their operations and branding. She is author of several critically-acclaimed books including Naked Fashion and Slow Fashion. She lives in London.

Book preview

Chapter 1 – The Modern Slavery Act

WHAT IS MODERN SLAVERY?

Although it is illegal, there are more people trapped in slavery today than ever before. Millions of vulnerable men, women and children are enslaved through human trafficking and forced labour.

Bangle-making near Delhi, ...

Credit: Safia Minney

Bangle-making near Delhi, India, where children as young as four work to supplement their family income.

There are many reasons why millions are trapped in modern slavery. From political decisions and population growth to a lack of choice and opportunity for the poor; from the undermining and theft of the natural environment upon which many of the world’s poorest people depend for their livelihoods – including access to the sea, forests and grazing lands – to urban-centric development policy: rural communities in the Majority World are left jobless, hungry, struggling in poverty and vulnerable to exploitation and forms of modern slavery.

Where laws exist they are not implemented, and corruption may run in the police force and government itself. Slavery exists in an enormous, thriving black economy; we consumers have never before ‘enjoyed’ such economic benefit from the slave trade as we do today. Criminal gangs line their pockets with the profits from human trafficking and consumers get cheaper clothes, foods and electronics. Thanks to a dysfunctional capitalist system, global corporations, shareholders, banks and investors, and financial institutions make handsome profits and huge dividends – in many cases off the backs of slaves. Modern slavery is an umbrella term used to describe its various forms, including:

Child Labour – Children are in slavery as domestic workers, or used as forced labour in the supply chains of clothing, jewellery and agricultural products such as cotton, cocoa and fisheries. They are trafficked for labour and for sexual exploitation, or as child soldiers. In Chapter 3 we meet proud but tired 14- and 15-year-olds who toil for 60 hours a week in garment factories and whose meagre salary is used to support their parents and siblings.

Human Trafficking – This is the transport or trade of children and adults from one area to another and into conditions of slavery. It is often done through deceptive recruitment and coercion. The fact that the victim’s family is often tricked into agreeing to the ‘deal’ makes them feel complicit in the crime and unwilling to report it or to prosecute the traffickers. On page 62 you will read about Prakash and his victims. Prakash is building himself a grand house with the profits made from trading young women into Kolkata, Delhi and Mumbai.

Forced and Excessive Labour – This is when people are forced to work through threats or intimidation. People often find themselves trapped, sometimes far from home. In Chapter 3 we will meet garment workers who are forced to work long hours without a break or even a day off. Often they work without contracts. Their managers are abusive and they are afraid of losing their job if they attempt to protect themselves or their rights.

Bonded Labour – People become bonded labourers after falling into debt and being forced to work for free in an attempt to repay it. Many will never pay off their loans and debt can be passed down to the next generation. On page 65 we meet Aloysius in Tirupur, who helps adolescent girls free themselves from the Sumangali scheme, a form of bonded labour. Under the Sumangali scheme, young girls are trapped in cotton mills and garment factories for three years and are paid a fraction of the minimum wage.

The UK Modern Slavery Act

The Modern Slavery Act (nin.tl/MSlavery-Act) came into force in October 2015. Designed to tackle slavery and trafficking, it was a game-changer, because it requires any commercial company with a global turnover of at least £36 million ($45 million) and that trades within the UK to produce an annual slavery and human-trafficking statement. The statement must contain details of the steps that the company has taken in the financial year to identify and eradicate modern slavery from both its own business and its supply chain or, if this is the case, to state that no steps have been taken. The Act galvanizes initiatives to promote better business practice and transparency in supply chains and is shaping a new social dialogue as companies, trade unions, NGOs and governments find ways to tackle slavery. Only a collaborative approach such as this will deliver transparency, decent wages for all workers, gender equality, and policies that have social justice at their heart.

As it stands, the Act requires companies to prepare and publish their statement about slavery in their supply chain. To date, the Act does not stipulate that they have to take action to eradicate slavery. However, the UK government envisages that commercial pressure will be brought to bear on those companies that fail to take action.

The new law will make transparent what a particular company is or is not doing, thus enabling members of the public, employees, consumers and investors to make informed decisions about whom to do business with. Statements (and failures to produce them) are likely to attract the attention of civil society and sections of the media that report on social justice and human rights issues. The consequences of failing to take the issue seriously, in terms of reputational damage and competitive disadvantage, could be significant.

The power to make change

Consumers and campaigning groups have a unique opportunity to accelerate the implementation of the Modern Slavery Act. We can draw on 30 years of campaigns for Fair Trade, ethical business, social justice, corporate accountability and environmentalism to put pressure on companies for slave-free products. Together with pioneering businesses and enlightened policymakers, we have the power to change how products are made, to protect workers and farmers, and to reward companies for good practice by buying their products.

Companies that work to manage their supply chains and the risks of slavery, together with better government policy, can help to eradicate slavery and tackle the root causes of power imbalances while putting the real social and environmental costs into the price of products. They can also set the agenda for better business so that others in their sector can follow.

But this will only happen through sustained consumer pressure and awareness. So what are we waiting for? Let’s tell our companies and our politicians what we want, and reward companies that show openness, integrity and true courage in promoting a type of business that promotes human rights and sets standards for best practice.

PART 6

TRANSPARENCY IN SUPPLY CHAINS ETC

54Transparency in supply chains etc

(1)A commercial organisation within subsection (2) must prepare a slavery and human trafficking statement for each financial year of the organisation.

(2)A commercial organisation is within this subsection if it—

(a)supplies goods or services, and

(b)has a total turnover of not less than an amount prescribed by regulations made by the Secretary of State.

(3)For the purposes of subsection (2)(b), an organisation’s total turnover is to be determined in accordance with regulations made by the Secretary of State.

(4)A slavery and human trafficking statement for a financial year is —

(a)a statement of the steps the organisation has taken during the financial year to ensure that slavery and human trafficking is not taking place—

(i)in any of its supply chains, and

(ii)in any part of its own business, or

(b)a statement that the organisation has taken no such steps.

(5)An organisation’s slavery and human trafficking statement may include information about—

(a)the organisation’s structure, its business and its supply chains;

(b)its policies in relation to slavery and human trafficking;

(c)its due diligence processes in relation to slavery and human trafficking in its business and supply chains;

(d)the parts of its business and supply chains where there is a risk of slavery and human trafficking taking place, and the steps it has taken to assess and manage that risk;

(e)its effectiveness in ensuring that slavery and human trafficking is not taking place in its business or supply chains, measured against such performance indicators as it considers appropriate;

(f)the training about slavery and human trafficking available to its staff.

(6)A slavery and human trafficking statement—

(a)if the organisation is a body corporate other than a limited liability partnership, must be approved by the board of directors (or equivalent management body) and signed by a director (or equivalent);

(b)if the organisation is a limited liability partnership, must be approved by the members and signed by a designated member;

(c)if the organisation is a limited partnership registered under the Limited Partnerships Act 1907, must be signed by a general partner;

(d)if the organisation is any other kind of partnership, must be signed by a partner.

(7)If the organisation has a website, it must—

(a)publish the slavery and human trafficking statement on that website, and

(b)include a link to the slavery and human trafficking statement in a prominent place on that website’s homepage.

(8)If the organisation does not have a website, it must provide a copy of the slavery and human trafficking statement to anyone who makes a written request for one, and must do so before the end of the period of 30 days beginning with the day on which the request is received.

(9)The Secretary of State—

(a)may issue guidance about the duties imposed on commercial organisations by this section;

(b)must publish any such guidance in a way the Secretary of State considers appropriate.

(10)The guidance may in particular include further provision about the kind of information which maybe included in a slavery and human trafficking statement.

(11)The duties imposed on commercial organisations by this section are enforceable by the Secretary of State bringing civil proceedings in the High Court for an injunction or, in Scotland, for specific performance of a statutory duty under section 45 of the Court of Session Act 1988.

(12)For the purposes of this section—

commercial organisation means—

(a)a body corporate (wherever incorporated) which carries on a business, or part of a business, in any part of the United Kingdom, or

(b)a partnership (wherever formed) which carries on a business, or part of a business, in any part of the United Kingdom, and for this purpose business includes a trade or profession;

partnership means—

(a)a partnership within the Partnership Act 1890,

(b)a limited partnership registered under the Limited Partnerships Act 1907, or

(c)a firm, or an entity of a similar character, formed under the law of a country outside the United Kingdom;

slavery and human trafficking means—

(a)conduct which constitutes an offence under any of the following—

Setting industry standards

Sam Maher is the co-ordinator on worker safety at the international office of the Clean Clothes Campaign (CCC), which engages consumers in solidarity with garment workers to improve their working conditions. The last time we met up was at a protest outside Benetton’s flagship store in London’s Oxford Circus in April 2014, when CCC was pushing the brand to pay compensation to the families of garment workers who were killed in the collapse of the Rana Plaza building in Dhaka, Bangladesh, in April 2013. I caught up with Sam to discuss what has changed since the tragedy.

How does CCC work?

We educate and mobilize citizens and consumers, lobby companies and governments, and offer direct solidarity support to workers. We are a global network of about 200 trade unions and NGOs from producing and consuming countries, which brings together two ends of the global garment supply chain.

The aftermath of ...

Credit: rijans under a CC licence

The aftermath of the Rana Plaza factory collapse in Bangladesh, April 2013.

CCC was instrumental in creating the Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh, the legally binding agreement between global brands, retailers and trade unions designed to hold companies accountable for