Frommer's EasyGuide to Las Vegas 2019

By Grace Bascos

Up-to-date and to-the-point, Frommer’s EasyGuide to Las Vegas 2019 supplies a thorough yet portable plan for taking on Sin City—and winning big! With the most trusted name in travel showing you the way, you’ll experience the megawatt glitz of the Vegas Strip, relive the old-school glamour of the Rat Pack’s heyday, and try gourmet cuisine crafted by some of the world’s best-known chefs. Everything has been freshly researched and updated for 2019—a must in a city where things change faster than you can say “mama needs a new pair of shoes!”

Frommer’s EasyGuide to Las Vegas 2019 contains:

Tons of useful maps, including a detachable foldout one Itineraries by interest so you can explore the city by iconic sights, plan the perfect bachelorette party, or take in the wonders (Hoover Dam, the Grand Canyon and more) that are an easy drive from the city

Excursions beyond the casinos to enjoy Vegas’s luxe spas, unparalleled shopping, surprisingly compelling history museums and nearby natural attractions

Entertainment and nightlife covering everything from lavish Cirque du Soleil spectacles to risqué revues and all-night dance parties

Candid reviews that run the gamut of places to eat, stay, play, and shop—from the budget-friendly to the ultra-luxe

Helpful planning info for getting there, getting around, and getting the most bang for your buck

About Frommer’s: There’s a reason that Frommer’s has been the most trusted name in travel for more than sixty years. Arthur Frommer created the best-selling guide series in 1957 to help American servicemen fulfill their dreams of travel in Europe, and since then, we have published thousands of titles became a household name helping millions upon millions of people realize their own dreams of seeing our planet. Travel is easy with Frommer’s.

• Language: English
• Publisher: FrommerMedia
• Release date: Oct 26, 2018
• ISBN: 9781628874211

Book preview

A Look at Las Vegas

Glitzy, gritty, gaudy, glamorous, and sometimes goofy, Las Vegas may well be the most colorful city in America. That goes for the people who call it their home (or make it their home for the weekend), the lights and playful structures, the multihued desert and mountain scenery that surrounds it, and the ever-changing cityscape. Las Vegas is constantly in flux: new attractions and restaurants constantly appearing, new efforts to challenge the normal standards of morality that some cities cherish. That’s why we revise this guidebook yearly. Our author, Grace Bascos, has captured the very latest and most outrageous Las Vegas efforts to shock, amuse, and intrigue you. What follows now are some of the sights you’ll see, the adventures you’ll have, and everything else that Vegas provides in such awesome amounts.

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Arthur Frommer

The myth about the pyramid-shaped Luxor (p. 53), with its sphinx out front, is that the beam of light shooting from its peak can be seen from outer space. That isn’t true, but it makes quite an impact on the Las Vegas Strip.

THE LAS VEGAS STRIP

Hand-painted frescoes, 25-foot-high Bottocino marble columns, and a floor that’s an exact replica of the one in Venice’s Santa Maria Rosario greet guests checking into the Venetian (p. 62).

Singing gondoliers serenade visitors inside and outside the Venetian.

Glam chandeliers are draped throughout the lobby of The Cosmopolitan (p. 60).

The facade of New York–New York (p. 55) features a 150-foot replica of the Statue of Liberty, a 300-foot long Brooklyn Bridge, and a taxi-themed rollercoaster—just for fun.

Carabinieros shrimp at Estiatorio Milos (p. 111), served with a shot of sherry to wash down the head.

Elvis and the Welcome to Las Vegas sign (p. 164), two icons in Sin City. You’ll be expected to tip if you pose with The King.

Donny and Marie are just two of the many stars who play Vegas in lieu of touring.

Cirque du Soleil’s KÀ (p. 211) combines spectacular feats of daring with exquisite sets and costumes.

Although Absinthe (p. 210) is not a Cirque du Soleil show, it features the same jaw-dropping acrobatics.

America’s Got Talent winner Terry Fator (p. 221) performs his singing, joking ventriloquism act four times a week.

A DJ gets the crowd going at Light (p. 235), one of Sin City’s more popular nightclubs.

ABOVE: A roster of famous DJs and hip-hop artists keeps the party going day and night at Drai’s (p. 234), at the rooftop pool of The Cromwell. BELOW: For some, watching the dancing waters in front of the Bellagio (p. 164) is all they need to have a great night on the town.

The casino floor at Caesars Palace (p. 58). Vast, labrynthine, and impressive, hotel casinos are designed to captivate guests—and their wallets.

Gamblers play craps, one of the fastest moving and most exciting games on the casino floor, at the Stratosphere Hotel and Casino (p. 73).

Getting hitched can be a thrill ride: a bride and groom on the Stratosphere’s Big Shot (p. 162).

The High Roller (p. 159) is the world’s tallest Ferris wheel.

Luxury brands are the focus of the Shops at Crystals (p. 198) in City Center. Nearby are stunning works of contemporary public art.

The Conservatory Gardens at the Bellagio (p. 164).

Elegant and extravagant: the Forum Shops (p. 201) at Caesars Palace.

Downtown Las Vegas & Off the Strip

Outdoor bars, with photogenic bartenders, are part of the scene at the Fremont Experience (p. 163) in the heart of downtown.

The LED above the Fremont Street Experience plays high-tech sound and image shows.

Guests swim with the sharks at the Golden Nugget pool (p. 75).

Culinary Dropout (p. 137) is just one of the hip new restaurants taking root away from the Strip.

The thought-provoking Mob Museum (p. 165) explores the role of organized crime in history and popular culture.

The 20,000-seat T-Mobile Arena (p. 223) is Vegas’s newest venue for big-name concerts and is the home of the city’s Golden Knights hockey team.

Audience participation is encouraged at the Chippendales show (p. 215). Bring your earplugs: The screaming of bachelorette parties can get intense.

Visitors can play out NASCAR fantasies at SpeedVegas (p. 170). Anyone with a license—and the cash—can take an exotic muscle car or supercar out for a zoom around the 1.5-mile Formula One–inspired track.

A set of dazzling, historic stained-glass ceilings cap the casino at Main Street Station (p. 79), Downtown’s hub for fans of Victorian architecture and design.

More than just a driving range, TopGolf (p. 170) features an entertainment stage, plus multiple kitchens and bars.

At the Neon Museum (p. 166), you see many of the spectacular vintage signs that once adorned the city.

Side Trips

Although the Grand Canyon can be seen on a day trip from Las Vegas (p. 258), we recommend a several-day stay, allowing you to climb below the rim to see its turrets, buttes, and striations in different lights throughout the day.

Completed in 1936, the Hoover Dam (p. 246) transformed the landscapes and lives of Westerners and is still considered one of the nation’s marvels of engineering.

Handsome Red Rock Canyon (p. 254) is only a 25-minute drive from the Strip.

Ancient petroglyphs dot the striated rocks of the Valley of Fire (p. 251).

A Vegas ski vacation?! It’s doable if you add a visit to nearby Mount Charleston (p. 256).

1

The Best of Las Vegas

The flamboyant showman Liberace once said, Too much of a good thing is wonderful! He may very well have been talking about Las Vegas, a city in which he was a frequent headliner and one that has built its reputation on the concept of excess.

There’s too much to look at, too much to do, too much to eat, too much to drink, and certainly too many ways to lose your money. Indulgence is the level at which most people start their visit, and why not? You can run out of room on your memory card trying to snap pictures of all the postcard-worthy sights, from dancing fountains to blasting volcanoes; the hotels are so big that getting from your room to the front door requires rest periods; the dining scene has turned this town into a culinary destination; and the nightclubs have elevated Sin City to the biggest, most successful party spot in the world. And all of that is before you get to the shows, the shopping, and the sheer madness of glittering casinos. Look at the faces of those waiting for their flights out of town: tired, maybe a little hung over still, but then there’s that little smile when they think about one of those what happens in Vegas . . . moments they just had. When it comes to Las Vegas, Liberace may have had a point.

The best Authentic Las Vegas Experiences

Strolling on the Strip After Dark: You haven’t really seen Las Vegas until you’ve seen it at night. This neon wonderland is the world’s greatest sound-and-light show. Begin at Luxor and work your way past the incredible hotels and their attractions. You’ll probably be exhausted both physically and mentally by the time you get to the halfway mark around Caesars Palace, but forge ahead and you could go all the way to the Stratosphere Tower for a bird’s-eye view of the city from more than 1,000 feet up. Make plenty of stops en route to see the Mirage Volcano erupt, take a photo of the full moon over the Eiffel Tower and marvel at the choreographed water-fountain ballet at Bellagio.

Casino-Hopping on the Strip: The interior of each lavish hotel-casino is more outrageous and giggle-inducing than the last. Just when you think they can’t possibly top themselves, they do. From Venice to Paris, from New York City to the Manhattan-style chic of CityCenter, it is all, completely and uniquely, Las Vegas. See The Best Las Vegas Casinos later in this chapter.

Sleeping In: Come on! You’re on vacation! Yes, there are lots of things to see and do in Las Vegas, but with tens of thousands of the most luxurious hotel rooms in the world, don’t you just want to stay in one of those big fluffy beds and maybe order room service? We know we do. See The Best Las Vegas Hotels below.

Visiting an Only-in-Vegas Museum: Take a breather from the casino floor and learn something new about Sin City: Go nuclear at the National Atomic Testing Museum (p. 169), get made at The Mob Museum (p. 165), or get lit up at The Neon Museum (p. 166).

Spending a Day (and Night) in Downtown: Glitter Gulch is undergoing a renaissance with fun, modern hotels and casinos like The Downtown Grand (p. 75); terrific and affordable dining options such as Eat (p. 134) and La Comida (p. 132); fun and funky bars like The Commonwealth (p. 229) and Atomic Liquors (p. 228); and must-see attractions like the Fremont Street Experience (p. 163). Oh, and there’s a giant, fire-breathing praying mantis at the Downtown Container Park (p. 204). If that doesn’t make you want to go, nothing will!

Shopping Until You’re Dropping: Take what Napoleon called the greatest drawing room in Europe, replicate it, add shops, and you’ve got The Grand Canal Shoppes at the Venetian (p. 202)—it’s St. Mark’s Square, complete with canals and working gondolas. See chapter 7 for the low-down on the shopping scene.

Dressing Up for a Show: Despite the fact that you’ll see plenty of cats in Bermuda shorts, hoodies, and Hawaiian shirts, there’s something about putting on your best suit or fanciest dress for an evening at the thea-tuh that can’t be beat. See chapter 8 for reviews of the major shows and check out The Best Las Vegas Shows later in this chapter.

Breaking Some Records: You can find thrills in many parts of the United States, but a few of the adrenaline-pumping attractions here are worthy of spots in The Guinness Book of World Records. High Roller (p. 159) is the world’s tallest observation wheel; the Stratosphere Tower & Thrill Rides (p. 162) are the highest in the United States; and SlotZilla (p. 168) is the world’s tallest slot machine, which is the launching platform for zip lines down Fremont Street.

Getting Away from It All: Las Vegas can be overwhelming, so be sure to create some time in your itinerary to find your Zen at such scenic spots as the Valley of Fire State Park or Red Rock Canyon. See chapter 9 for more ideas for day trips from Vegas.

Las Vegas & Environs

The best Las Vegas Restaurants

Best Strip Restaurants: Restaurant Guy Savoy (p. 113) is a legend in Paris and this offshoot is just as stellar. A second choice? Estiatorio Milos (p. 111) which serves impossibly fresh Mediterranean seafood.

Best Downtown Restaurants: The gourmet-yet-cool specialties at The Kitchen at Atomic (p. 135) and the authentic, homemade-style Thai dishes at Le Thai prove that the dining scene in Downtown has arrived.

Best Off-Strip Restaurant: Sparrow + Wolf (p. 146) is a 10-minute drive from the Strip, but the eclectic American fare with plenty of global flavors and creative, on-trend cocktails have even visitors from around the world stopping by for a meal.

Best Comfort Food: The heaping portions of classic American comfort food at Tom’s Urban (in New York–New York; p. 55) will satisfy even the most ravenous of eaters, while the funky twists on the genre served at Culinary Dropout (p. 137) will charm the most jaded.

Best Theme Restaurant: Generally speaking, we think theme restaurants are overpriced tourist traps, but Gilley’s (p. 119) has such great down-home cooking that we’re willing to overlook the mechanical bull.

Best Steakhouse: The Vegas staple restaurant is alive and well in the hands of modern chefs like Gordon Ramsay, whose Gordon Ramsay Steak (p. 112) celebrates the one thing that matters in a steakhouse: the meat. One of the stars of the show (in addition to Ramsay, when he’s in the open kitchen) is the multi-tiered, mirrored steak cart that lets you check out all the luscious prime cuts from every angle. The only better look you’d get of that beef is if you were face to face with the cow itself.

Best Cheap Meal: Flock and Fowl (p. 141) serves one of the quintessential Asian comfort foods—Hainanese Chicken Rice—all set in the cool backdrop of Downtown Las Vegas.

Best Splurge: Food should not cost as much as it does at Joël Robuchon (p. 101) and its slightly less expensive sibling L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon (p. 101), but a few bites of the exquisite cuisine will make you understand why it does.

Best Buffets: It’s expensive, but the Caesars Palace Bacchanal Buffet (p. 149) serves high-quality food worthy of tablecloths and candlelight. Bargain hunters, however, won’t need to sacrifice quality at the Main Street Garden Court Buffet (p. 152).

Best Hamburgers: Holstein’s (p. 121) grinds it out at the Cosmopolitan, putting out really inventive burgers such as the Gold Standard, topped with bacon, goat cheddar cheese, and tomato confit. Not into beef? Not to worry, they’ve got pork, turkey, and veggie burgers to suit everyone. Plus some killer milkshakes.

Best Desserts: An off-shoot of the NYC original restaurant, Black Tap (p. 116) is known for its Instagrammable and enormous milkshakes. We think the Brooklyn Blackout shake is not just wacky looking, but also the best treat in town on a hot Vegas day.

Best Views: You can see the entire city and big chunks of southern Nevada from the revolving Top of the World (p. 128), situated more than 800 feet up the Stratosphere Tower, while at Rivea, at the top of the Mandalay Bay, you get a virtually unobstructed view of the Strip and delightfully crafted Mediterranean-inspired cuisine that may make you forget the vista entirely.

Best Breakfasts: Don’t let the long lines at the cheekily named Egg Slut (in The Cosmopolitan; p. 124) deter you. We didn’t think egg sandwiches were worth the wait until came across these bad boys.

The best Las Vegas Hotels

Best Classic Vegas Hotel: Most of historic Las Vegas has been imploded (often spectacularly), but at Caesars Palace (p. 58) you can still get a taste of it as themed Roman decadence meets classic Sin City opulence.

Best Modern Vegas Hotel: The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas (p. 60) offers a blueprint for what the next generation of Las Vegas hotels will be like: as over-the-top visually as any theme hotel, but with a sexy, contemporary edge.

Best for a Romantic Getaway: It may not be in the Mediterranean, but the gorgeous ceiling frescoes, faux canals and stellar shopping at Venetian (p. 62) will transport you straight to Italy. Massive, luxurious suites provide a romantic retreat that really puts you in the mood for amore.

Best for Families: Las Vegas is not a family destination, but if you can’t leave the little ones with Grandma, your choice for a major Vegas hotel is Circus Circus (p. 72), where there are almost as many things for the wee ones to do as there are for adults.

Best for Business Travelers: Westgate Las Vegas’ (p. 84) location next to the Convention Center makes this a no-brainer from a geographical perspective, but the large rooms, classic casino, and raft of restaurants give it a decidedly Vegas spin.

Best Rooms on the Strip: There are less than 200 rooms at The Cromwell (p. 61), and compared to more modern hotels, they can run on the smaller side. But cool design touches (art! real books!) and a prime location center Strip make up what you lack in space.

Best Rooms Downtown: The Golden Gate (p. 78) is the oldest hotel in Las Vegas, but a recent renovation of its old bones has transformed it into modern yet comfortable resort that is keeping up with the rapid changes of this neighborhood.

Best Rooms Off the Strip: Red Rock Resort (p. 93) lives up to the resort part of its name as a true desert retreat, complete with gorgeous, modern rooms that you’ll never want to leave.

Best Bathrooms: This one is a toss-up for us, with the bigger-than-many-apartments-size retreats at The Venetian (p. 62) and the sumptuous luxury fixtures at Aria Las Vegas (p. 46) both winning our, er, hearts.

Best Bang for Your Buck: Almost everything you can find at a Strip hotel (nice rooms, full casino, multiple restaurants, former Las Vegas mayor/martini aficionado Oscar Goodman!) can be gotten at the Plaza (p. 80) in Downtown Las Vegas for a fraction of the cost.

Best Non-Casino Hotel: They can’t get your money gambling, so they get it through high room rates, but to stay at the Four Seasons (p. 48) is to immerse yourself in luxury.

Best Splurge: Rooms at Wynn/Encore Las Vegas (p. 70) will almost always be among the most expensive in town, but you’ll totally feel like you are getting your money’s worth, especially with the gorgeous spas, pools, casinos, and other amenities at your disposal.

Best Hotels for Spas: The Spa at Encore (p. 192) is a 70,000-square-foot oasis for the mind, body, and spirit, with gorgeous Moroccan-infused design and a full menu of pampering delights. Meanwhile, we only wish our own gym were as handsomely equipped as the one at the Canyon Ranch SpaClub (p. 191) in the Venetian, which also has a number of other high-priced treatments on which you can blow your blackjack winnings. For more great spa options, see p. 191.

The best Free Things to Do in Las Vegas

Watching the Waters Dance: The intricately choreographed water ballet that is the Fountains at Bellagio (p. 164) would be worth repeated viewings even if they charged to see it. The fact that they don’t makes it an almost perfect Vegas experience.

Enjoying the Changing of the Seasons: There are five seasons in the elaborately designed botanical gardens of the Bellagio Conservatory (p. 164): Winter (holiday), Chinese New Year, Spring, Summer, and Fall. No matter which is on display during your visit, make sure your digital camera has a full battery charge. You’ll want lots of pictures.

Seeing a Volcano Erupt: When the free Mirage Volcano (p. 164) first erupted in 1989, shooting flames and faux lava into the sky, it literally stopped traffic on the Strip. That it doesn’t today only means that it has more competition for your attention, not that it is any less fun.

Watching the Sky Light Up: Many people considered it almost sacrilegious to convert the famed Glitter Gulch in Downtown Vegas into a pedestrian mall with a free light-and-sound show broadcast on a massive LED canopy overhead. Now the Fremont Street Experience (p. 163) is considered a must-visit.

Playing a Penny Slot: Yes, in order to win the big bucks—sometimes millions of them—on a modern penny slot you have to bet much more than just one penny. But if you’re okay with smaller rewards and losses, you could stretch a dollar into 100 spins.

Beating the High Score: It’s free to just look at the restored classic machines at the Pinball Hall of Fame (p. 172), and if you want to do more than just look, it’ll only cost you a couple of quarters. What other museum lets you play with its works of art?

Making Your Own Postcard: Just down the road from the southern-most edge of the Strip is one of the most photographed and imitated signs in the world. Get a picture of you at the Welcome to Fabulous Las Vegas Sign (p. 164), and you’ll have a postcard-worthy souvenir.

The best Ways to See Las Vegas Like a Local

Gambling on a Budget: Finding a local at a Strip casino is rare. Why? Because Vegas residents know the limits are lower and the payback is often higher at neighborhood casinos like Red Rock Resort (p. 93) and Green Valley Ranch Resort (p. 88).

Eating off the Strip: Those same locals who don’t gamble on the Strip usually don’t eat on the Strip either, unless they are trying to impress visitors. Instead they dine at the less expensive but still fantastic local eateries such as Raku (p. 145).

Becoming an Arts Lover: Leave the tacky Las Vegas snow globes for the souvenir-hunting tourists and get yourself some unique Vegas keepsakes at one of the arts collectives instead. The Arts Factory (p. 163) is leading the charge for the burgeoning arts scene in the city.

Hunting for Treasure: It may be surprising to find out that in a city like Las Vegas, where history is often disposed of with carefully timed implosions, antique shopping is a favored pastime of locals and visitors alike. Check out the fun finds at Retro Vegas (p. 206).

Catching a Broadway Show: The stunning (both visually and aurally) Smith Center for the Performing Arts (p. 217) is a boon to the cultural life of Las Vegas, giving a proper home to everything from the philharmonic and dance troupes to their popular Broadway Series featuring titles like Book of Mormon and Hamilton.

Walking the Streets: No, not that way. Instead, check out the fun First Friday Las Vegas street fair (p. 167), which brings the local (and tourist) community together with live entertainment, art vendors, and lots of state fair–type food. Did we mention deep-fried cookie dough? We thought that would get your attention.

The best Las Vegas Casinos

Best Classic Casinos: On the Strip there is no place that honors its history quite like Caesars Palace (p. 58), where you can still enjoy the classic Roman splendor that has been wowing gamblers since 1966. And though they no longer have the World Series of Poker, serious players still head directly to Binion’s for its swingers vibe and lively table game action.

Best Modern Casinos: When we first saw the contemporary, cutting-edge decor at Aria Las Vegas (p. 46), we thought that nothing could top it in terms of modern casino luxury. But then along came the bold, artistic statement of The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas (p. 60), and we realized we just might have a competition on our hands.

Best Glitter Gulch Casinos: Downtown Las Vegas casinos often have lower limits and friendlier dealers, two things that can make losing money less painful. The best of the breed in the area are the Golden Nugget (p. 75), all warm hues and laid-back fun, and Downtown Grand (p. 75), which manages to be both modern and charmingly retro at the same time.

Best Local Casinos: Most neighborhood casinos are low-limit, no-frills joints, but the casinos at Red Rock Resort (p. 93), Green Valley Ranch (p. 88), and M Resort (p. 90) are as stylish as many on the Strip. That they can be that visually appealing, and still maintain most of the thrifty attitude that the locals’ casinos are known for, is almost a miracle.

Best Budget Casinos: You won’t find any ostentatious opulence at The Orleans (p. 86), but you will find thousands of low-limit slot and video poker machines and dozens of gaming tables that won’t cost you an arm and a leg to join. Meanwhile The Four Queens (p. 77) in Downtown Las Vegas offers similarly low-priced gambling options in comfortable and friendly surroundings.

Best Splurge Casino: Yes, you can find high-limit slots and table games pretty much anywhere, but why not surround yourself with the opulent decor and high-class furnishings of Wynn/Encore (p. 70)?

Best Blast from the Past Casinos: Both the D Las Vegas (p. 74) and the Eastside Cannery (p. 88) have a selection of classic machines that still take and dispense actual coins!

The best Las Vegas Shows

Best Overall Show: A perfect intersection of music and artistry can be found at Michael Jackson ONE (p. 213), featuring the music and choreography of the King of Pop and the stunning visual theater of Cirque du Soleil.

Best Big Shows: The wow-factor winner is a toss-up between Cirque du Soleil’s KÀ (p. 211) and Mystère (p. 214). The latter is more traditional—if you can call a human circus that mixes dazzling acrobatics with dramatic visuals traditional—in that it has only a loose semblance of narrative, whereas KÀ actually has a plot. Both are dazzling and, given the extremely high production values, seem worth the extremely high ticket prices.

Best Small Show: Only the space in which Absinthe (p. 210) is performed can be called small; the over-the-top acrobatics, stunts, dance, comedy, and mind-blowing originality of each certainly can’t be beat.

Best Classic Show: Fare thee well, big, huge stage sets; pointless production numbers; showgirls; nipples on parade; and Bob Mackie headdresses. If you want more than just a musty blast from the past, check out Vegas! The Show (p. 222), which celebrates multiple eras of classic Sin City entertainment in one spectacular package.

Best Magic Shows: This town isn’t good enough for Penn & Teller (p. 219) and their master class in the art and artifice of illusion taught by guys who will both amuse and amaze.

Best Music Shows: Human Nature’s Jukebox (p. 217) will shock you with how well four white Australian dudes can sing classic Motown songs, boy-band hits, and pop classics. For a bit of acrobatics along with your nostalgia, Michael Jackson ONE by Cirque du Soleil (p. 213) immerses you into the King of Pop’s best hits, along with a visual spectacle for which both Jackson and Cirque are best known.

Best Daytime Shows: It’s almost as much of a comedy show as it is a magic show, but the set done by Mac King (p. 219) will leave you astounded while some great close-up tricks and laughing your head off at the same time. A similar mix of laughs and gasps can be found at the comedy juggling show done by Jeff Civillico (p. 22).

The best Outdoor Experiences in Las Vegas

Best Pools: There are acres of water park fun at Mandalay Bay (p. 49), including a wave pool, lazy river, beach, regular swimming pools, and even its own open-air casino. Meanwhile, the lush landscaping, fountains, and water slides at The Mirage (p. 66) will make you feel like you’re in a tropical paradise. For more picks for our favorite pools, see p. 65.

Best Golf: Real golfers head to TPC Las Vegas (p. 190) for its challenging holes, eye-candy scenery, and occasional Justin Timberlake sightings. If you’re more into hitting a few golf balls as a social exercise, TopGolf (p. 170) is a driving range, bar, dining destination all in one.

Best Drives: The 13-mile Red Rock Scenic Drive (p. 254) provides a way to enjoy the colorful rocks and canyons without leaving the air-conditioned comfort of your car. On the other hand, you could get a good breeze going at about 140 mph in one of the race or exotic cars you can drive yourself at the Las Vegas Motor Speedway (p. 173).

Best Retreat: If you need a respite from the hustle and bustle of Las Vegas, head north to Mount Charleston (p. 256) for a relaxed mountain retreat, or to work up a sweat while hiking or snowboarding.

Best Man-Made Wonder: One of the greatest engineering feats in history is the 726-foot-tall Hoover Dam (p. 246). You can take tours of the mighty facility and learn how it made Las Vegas (and much of the American Southwest) possible.

2

Suggested Las Vegas Itineraries

The Strip alone has hundreds of restaurants, dozens of shows, and more attractions, sights, and sounds than can easily be catalogued, much less visited. So yes, when you come to Las Vegas, you certainly won’t be lacking in things to do. But the sheer enormity of the city and its laundry list of items to add to your daily to-do list could leave even the most intrepid traveler feeling a little overwhelmed.

The itineraries in this chapter are designed to help narrow down the big list a little while maximizing your time. This way you can spend less energy planning and more having fun. Each itinerary has a theme, but you can always mix and match to create your perfect Las Vegas getaway.

Instead of a step-by-step tour, the itineraries are broken down by morning, afternoon, and nighttime activities with multiple suggestions for each, again allowing you to customize your vacation in a way that makes sense for you.

Iconic Las Vegas

There are many things with which Las Vegas has become synonymous: Gambling and all things excess are probably at the top of the list, but there’s also the dancing waters, the dolphins, the buffets, the Cirque du Soleil shows, the steakhouses, the offbeat museums, the wild nightlife, and much more. This itinerary will guide you to the must-see and must-do, all of which are fun for first-timers or repeat offenders. Have your cameras ready!

Mornings

Start your day with a photo opportunity at the Welcome to Fabulous Las Vegas Sign (p. 164), perhaps the city’s most iconic symbol. Then keep your say cheese smile in place as you take a driving tour past the only-in-Vegas, postcard-worthy exteriors of hotels (see chapter 4) like the pyramid-shaped Luxor, the castle-themed Excalibur, the Gotham re-creation of New York–New York, the modern wonder of CityCenter, the Italian villa charm of Bellagio, the Gallic splendor of Paris Las Vegas, and the Roman decadence of Caesars Palace.

Suggested Las Vegas Itineraries

If you started early enough and still have time before lunch, check out one (or preferably both) of the city’s more colorful attractions with the glorious botanical gardens at the Bellagio Conservatory (p. 164) or the majestic animals at the Mirage Secret Garden & Dolphin Habitat (p. 161). Both are fun to look at, but more importantly, offer a bit of a peaceful respite from the madness that is Las Vegas. Trust us, you’ll need a break every now and then!

Afternoons

You can go one of two ways for lunch, either with a classic Vegas buffet or a view of the throngs of humanity that crowd the Strip. For the former, check out the Spice Market Buffet (p. 151) at Planet Hollywood or Bellagio Buffet (p. 148). Both offer a seemingly endless array of well-prepared food; while they may not be the cheapest buffets in town, neither are they the most expensive, so you can have your proverbial—or literal—cake and eat it, too.

The other way to go would be to have a nosh at a Strip-side cafe so you can do some people-watching. The best of the bunch are Mon Ami Gabi (p. 123) for Americanized twists on classic French bistro cuisine at Paris Las Vegas, and Tom’s Urban (p. 55) at New York–New York, which serves up a diverse menu from burgers to steaks with eclectic salads and one giant eggroll.

After you have refueled, head to one of the city’s offbeat, unique museums. Tops on our list are the National Museum of Organized Crime and Law Enforcement, aka the Mob Museum (p. 165), which takes a look at the Mafia and its influence on the country and Vegas in particular; or the National Atomic Testing Museum (p. 169), which explores the history of the nuclear age with a special focus on the nearby Nevada Testing Site.

Close out your afternoon with some shopping, window or otherwise. Even if you can’t afford to buy, a stroll through the highly themed malls like The Forum Shops (p. 201, ancient Rome) or Grand Canal Shoppes (p. 202, Venice canals complete with gondoliers) is a hoot.

Nights

If you didn’t eat the buffet at lunch you may want to consider one for dinner, but our preference would be to send you to a steakhouse. The best of the bunch are StripSteak at Mandalay Bay, Michael Mina’s version of a modern steakhouse, which not only serves some of the best Japanese beef on the Strip but also has a really exciting non-steak menu; don’t confuse this with Strip House (p. 115) at Planet Hollywood, which has fantastically flavorful cuts of meat and a peek-a-boo bordello theme; and the simply named The Steakhouse (p. 128) at Circus Circus, which has an old-school charm, terrific food, and affordable prices.

We hope you didn’t eat too much, because your night is just getting started. Next, it’s on to one of the shows by Cirque du Soleil, the French-Canadian circus troupe that reinvented and now rules the Las Vegas entertainment scene. There are many to choose from, but our favorites include the dreamy wonder of Mystère (p. 214) at Treasure Island, the martial arts spectacle of KÀ (p. 211) at MGM Grand, the water ballet of O (p. 214) at Bellagio, or the King of Pop spectacle that is Michael Jackson ONE (p. 213) at Mandalay Bay.

From there it’s on to the truly iconic Las Vegas experiences, which are all best viewed at night. The dancing waters of the Fountains of Bellagio (p. 164) are worth visiting no matter how many times you have seen them; the Mirage Volcano (p. 164) is still a lava-spewing delight; and the Fremont Street Experience (p. 163) in Downtown Las Vegas will immerse you in the neon-lit glory that is Glitter Gulch.

End your day dancing the night away at one of the city’s hot nightclubs like the technologically innovative, LED-laden Light (p. 235) at Mandalay Bay or the world’s largest nightclub Hakkasan (p. 235) at MGM Grand. Or put some money down in the casino. It certainly doesn’t get more iconic Vegas than that.

Over-the-Top Las Vegas

Las Vegas was built on the idea that average and normal were adjectives that should never be used to describe the city. They don’t just build hotels here; they build the biggest hotels in the world. And then they throw a roller coaster, a volcano, a $500-per-person golf course, or a $400-per-meal restaurant into the mix. Vegas is all about extravagance, so this itinerary will help you find the biggest of the big, the wildest of the wild, and the most outrageous, over-the-top experiences the city has to offer.

Mornings

You’re going to have a busy day of excess, so it’s important to start out with an ample breakfast to keep your energy level high. Room service is always an option—there’s nothing quite as extravagant as having servers bring you food without ever getting out of bed—but if you feel like getting out and about, try the sumptuous brunch buffets at Wynn Las Vegas (p. 151) or Caesars Palace (p. 149). Both offer a mind-boggling number of food choices (Caesars Bacchanal Buffet claims over 500 individual dishes at any time), all of which are a cut above your standard buffet. Handmade omelets and crepes, freshly baked breads, and heaping mounds of bacon, sausage, and even steak will go well with your unlimited mimosas. At more than $45 per person (for the weekend champagne brunch), the price will remind you that this is no pedestrian all-you-can-eat experience. The Sterling Brunch at BLT at Bally’s will set you back nearly $100 for the weekend meal, but with all-you-can-eat caviar, lobster tails, and free-flowing Perrier-Jouet champagne, it’s worth every penny.

The morning hours are the best time to schedule your outdoor activities. Not only are crowds often lighter, as a lot of people sleep in (it is a vacation, after all), but temperatures are also more moderate. This is especially true in the summer, when an afternoon stroll down the Strip can emulate a trek across the desert. So use this time to catch some rays poolside or, if you are recreationally minded, work up a moderate sweat with a round of golf. If you are a guest of Caesars Palace, you can play the tony links at Cascata for a princely sum of $295 per person (or more).

Vegas by air

Most people are satisfied with the views of Las Vegas from terra firma. Walking or driving up the Strip, especially at night, is a requirement for the first-time Vegas visitor. But, for some, there is no better way to see Sin City in all its neon glamour than from the air. If you are one of these intrepid souls, then look for a helicopter tour of Las Vegas.

There are more than a dozen competing companies offering tours of the city and surrounding areas, and most offer the same type of services at very similar prices. We’re including a few of the more well-known companies below, but comparison shopping is highly encouraged.

Maverick Helicopters (www.maverickhelicopter.com;

 

888/261-4414

) is one of the most well-known tour operators in Las Vegas. Its large fleet of ECO-Star helicopters has one of the best safety records in the business, and a variety of packages are available, including twilight and night flights over the Strip. If you want to venture farther, Hoover Dam and Grand Canyon packages are available. Rates start at around $119 per person and go up from there, depending on the length and distance of the tour you choose. Most include transportation to and from your hotel.

VegasTours.com (www.vegastours.com;

 

866/218-6877

) features a similar list of air adventures, including a nighttime flight over Vegas and several to the Grand Canyon, while Papillon Tours (www.papillon.com;

 

888/635-7272

) not only offers helicopter tours, but airplane and ground excursions as well.

End your morning with a visit to a spa for some pampering and luxuriating. The Spa at Encore (p. 192) offers virtually every massage, aromatherapy, skin-care treatment, and relaxation technique known to man—some of which will cost you more per 30-minute session than your hotel room. Soak in the jacuzzi or dip in and out of the hot and cold pools before heading out again.

Afternoons

Then it’s off to the shopping malls, where the true excess can really begin (see chapter 7). The Forum Shops at Caesars Palace, the Grand Canal Shoppes at The Venetian, The LINQ, Grand Bazaar Shops, The Shops at Crystals, Fashion Show, and the Miracle Mile at Planet Hollywood are all filled with high-end retailers designed to drain your checking account and max out your credit cards. If those are a little out of your price range, consider going the completely opposite direction at the Bonanza Gift and Souvenir Shop (p. 203). Billed as the largest souvenir shop in the world, this is the place where you can find pretty much anything—from tacky to, well, more tacky—emblazoned with the words Las Vegas on it. The kitsch factor here is off the charts.

Finally, experience some of the quintessential, only-in-Vegas attractions, such