Gourmet Traveller

What Happens In Vegas

I’m watching night swallow up the day. Moonless, the darkness seems magnified by the electrifying light show. Each and every audacious neon starburst and revolution dances and fights for my dollars. All recklessly glowing until the sun clocks on for the day shift.

When it does, early morning machines wash the streets and nearly all traces of the night before. Day does the grunt work to re-supply the city and ensure each nightly show is brighter than before.

As sure as night follows day, Las Vegas’ essential promise has always been reinvention, from casinos and hotels to the latest street hustle. Old neon doesn’t get to retire; it’s repurposed and works every night at downtown’s Neon Museum, only in

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