RSPB Handbook of Garden Wildlife: Second Edition

By Peter Holden and Geoffrey Abbott

The updated edition of the popular RSPB Handbook of Garden Wildlife.

This friendly handbook is full of practical advice on attracting wildlife to your garden, and encouraging creatures to stick around, as well as expert tips on green gardening, seasonal planting and garden predators.

Colour photographs illustrate hundreds of mammals, birds, insects, invertebrates, reptiles and amphibians, flowers, trees, shrubs and fungi, while the comprehensive text explains everything you need to cultivate a haven for nature.

The new edition includes additional species as well as fully updated text describing the diverse wildlife that can be found in British gardens. Finally, a DIY chapter is packed with projects for your garden, from building bat boxes to digging your own pond.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
• Release date: Apr 26, 2018
• ISBN: 9781472930859

Peter Holden

Peter Holden has written nine books, including the bestselling RSPB Handbook of British Birds and the acclaimed RSPB Handbook of Garden Wildlife. He worked for the RSPB for more than 40 years.

Book preview

CONTENTS

FOREWORD

THE RSPB

INTRODUCTION

A Nature Reserve on Your Doorstep

Making a Wildlife Garden

Boundaries, Borders and Lawns

Trees

Shrubs

Peanuts, Scraps and Slug Pellets

Log Piles and Compost Heaps

Wildflower Meadows

Buildings

Water Features

Seasonal Management

Monthly Guide

Predation in the garden

The Green Gardener

Secret Garden

SPECIES ACCOUNTS

Mammals

Birds

Reptiles and Amphibians

Invertebrates

Spiders

Insects

Butterflies

Moths

Wild Flowers

Garden Plants

Trees and Shrubs

Fungi and Non-flowering Plants

DIY IN THE GARDEN

Nest Boxes for Birds

Bird Tables

Hedgehog Boxes

Garden Ponds

Insect Homes

Bat Boxes

GLOSSARY

PICTURE CREDITS

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

FOREWORD

BY MIRANDA KRESTOVNIKOFF

DOES YOUR GARDEN GIVE NATURE A HOME?

With so much of the countryside taken up for human needs, many of our birds and other species are being squeezed out. This is why the RSPB urges us all to give nature a home – and where better to start than in your garden, balcony or even window box? The UK’s gardens together cover a huge area and can make a real difference to wildlife.

It’s not only the wildlife that will benefit. Giving nature a home brings a garden to life in a way no costly water feature or lighting ever could. Even routine weeding becomes a pleasure when a Robin appears – watching keenly for worms or spiders to be unearthed. Sitting quietly in a dusk-shrouded garden watching a Hedgehog lead her family out under cover of darkness is both a pleasure and a privilege. And what can compare with the song of a Blackbird breaking the still of an early summer evening?

All of these are species that will happily live in gardens. Sadly Hedgehogs, one of our once familiar garden animals, are vanishing at an alarming rate and struggle to get past hard fences and walls to make their necessary nightly journeys from garden to garden. Even ‘common’ garden birds, such as House Sparrows, Starlings and Song Thrushes, have disappeared from many gardens. Meanwhile bees sometimes struggle to find the nectar and pollen they need in modern strains of garden flowers.

As well as our most noticeable garden visitors, butterflies, bees, frogs, bats, ladybirds and beautiful shiny beetles are just a few of the many species the whole family can enjoy in a more wildlife-friendly garden.

The good news is we don’t need to choose between having a beautiful garden and a nature-friendly wilderness – even subtle changes to our gardens can make a real difference to wildlife. So, read on to discover ways you can welcome nature in your garden and learn how to recognise all the exciting species when they appear...

Miranda Krestovnikoff, RSPB President

THE RSPB

The RSPB is the country’s largest nature conservation charity, inspiring everyone to give nature a home.

Together with partners, it protects threatened birds and wildlife so our towns, coast and countryside will teem with life once again. It also plays a leading role in a worldwide partnership of nature conservation organisations.

The threats that nature faces are vast, which is why the RSPB asks everyone – individuals, businesses, schools, farmers and the Government – to do their bit to give nature a home. By buying this book, you are helping, so thank you.

Thanks to the support of over a million members, the RSPB manages over 200 nature reserves, which are home to 80 per cent of the UK’s rarest or most threatened bird species.

Sound science is at the heart of the RSPB, with conservationists monitoring how well (or not) different species are doing, identifying any problems, researching the reasons, then coming up with solutions to ensure the wildlife that we all love will be around for future generations to enjoy.

One such success is the Bittern – a heron-like wading bird that lives in reedbeds. In the 1990s, there were only 11 male Bitterns left in the UK. Now, thanks to new, clean wetlands being created and carefully managed, there are more than 100 males in the UK. Bitterns are, literally, booming again.

The RSPB campaigns for better laws and policies for nature and makes sure that environmental issues are on our politicians’ agenda. It works with farmers and landowners to ensure there is space for nature across the UK countryside.

Educating and inspiring the next generation is also important, as our children will be the custodians of our environment in the future.

You can find out more about the work of the RSPB at rspb.org.uk

RSPB Arne in Dorset, one of more than 200 wild places managed by the RSPB, and free to enjoy for members.

INTRODUCTION

TO THE SECOND EDITION

Garden Spider.

It is eight years since we wrote the first edition of this handbook and we are delighted that so many people have found its contents useful.

Gardens are special places. We create them for our own pleasure and no two are alike. Some are neat and tidy while others are – how shall we put it – more natural! Some have vegetable plots, but most have only lawns and flower borders. Some have mature trees while others are recent creations, with no trees or shrubs at all. With so much variety, it is not surprising that there is no definitive list of garden wildlife.

No wild plants or animals are found exclusively in gardens – they have not had time to evolve to match the requirements of this rather new and varied habitat completely. However, many species, from woodpeckers to woodlice, do visit us regularly and some stay to rear their offspring. Wild plants also occur in gardens: we often think of these as ‘weeds’, although the authors prefer to regard them as wild flowers that are simply in the wrong place!

Since the first edition, wildlife has continued to come under pressure. New houses tend to have smaller gardens. Hedgehogs, Starlings and House Sparrows have further declined, and non-native species such as Ring-necked Parakeets are more dominant in some areas. Gardens are increasingly regarded as important for nature conservation and we have expanded the contents to reflect reflect the latest thinking in garden conservation.

Our gardens can be intricate webs of life, and understanding the web – and improving it from year to year – is the real aim of this book.

A NATURE RESERVE ON YOUR DOORSTEP

Water is important to birds for bathing as well as drinking.

As our countryside comes under pressure from agriculture and leisure activities, much of its wildlife is struggling to cope. As a result, gardens have become more important for the survival of all sorts of species, from the familiar Robin, to the elusive Blackcap, and from the urban Fox to the agile Common Frog. Just as nature reserves are specially managed for wildlife, so you can plan and maintain your garden to create the best possible conditions for the widest selection of species. Like a reserve warden, the wildlife gardener should know what is on his or her ‘patch’, makes plans to develop a space that appeals to as many species as possible, and manages the site to maintain a balance that suits both its human owners and its wildlife occupants.

Species that live in gardens can’t survive in isolation. A garden is a miniature ecosystem, and understanding its whole food web is important. For example, the Song Thrush is a popular garden visitor and Garden Snails constitute some of its food. In autumn, the thrush is likely to be eating berries, but when that crop is exhausted, earthworms and other invertebrates become essential to its diet. Retaining some snails in the garden, planting berry-bearing shrubs and having plants that are home to invertebrates are all key to a successful wildlife garden and will ensure this species survives throughout the year.

The wildlife potential of a garden can be enhanced by carrying out structural improvements, such as erecting nest boxes and bird tables, constructing a pond or even making small modifications to a building. You might also enjoy keeping a record of the species you identify in your garden but, most importantly, you need to have a master plan. If you do all this, we are certain you will be surprised and enthralled at the results.

MAKING A WILDLIFE GARDEN

GET TO KNOW YOUR GARDEN

It may sound obvious, but the first step towards creating a successful wildlife garden is getting to know what is already there. Find out which plants are established, which grow well, and which animals visit and at what time of year. Make lists of the plants, insects, birds and animals you see, including the months in which they flower or visit. If you are unsure where to start, you could use the index of this book as the basis of your personal checklist.

Look out for any birds that might be nesting in or near your garden, as well as other animals like Hedgehogs or bats that could also breed there. If possible, wait a whole year before making any significant changes to your garden, otherwise you may inadvertently lose some key features that are already attracting wildlife.

PLANNING

Next, draw up a garden plan. This may be a simple map indicating the key features of the garden. Be sure to include any features outside the garden boundary that might influence your plans, such as a mature tree with overhanging branches. Mark areas that are shady, and also note those that get direct sunlight. Indicate the main compass points too, as orientation is important in the siting of structures such as nest boxes.

Mark on the plan ideal sites for nest boxes, bat boxes and a pond. Even if you have a small garden, consider leaving part of it untouched with more native plants, which can become your own wildlife haven. If possible, decide which area of the lawn is least used and cut the grass here less frequently.

Even small gardens can include birdfeeders and a variety of plants that feed and support insects.

BOUNDARIES, BORDERS AND LAWNS

BOUNDARIES

Around the edge of your garden there will be some kind of boundary, usually a fence, wall or hedge. Animals do not recognise our self-imposed partitions so, for obvious reasons, hedges are the most wildlife-friendly option, especially if they comprise native shrubs such as Holly, Wild Privet, Hazel or Hawthorn. The inclusion of additional shrubs such as Dogwood, Blackthorn, Spindle and Beech can provide even more interest and be better still for wildlife – like the old mixed hedges of farmland. Planting new conifer hedges, such as Leyland Cypress, should be avoided as they have limited wildlife benefit and drain the soil of nutrients and moisture. However, think carefully before removing any pre-existing conifers, as they might be home to nesting or roosting animals. Even if a garden in surrounded by walls or fences, small hedges can be introduced as dividers or as a backdrop to a garden pond.

Fences and walls have limited wildlife value except as supports for climbing shrubs and plants and for nest boxes. Fixing trellis to a fence or wall will help plants climb up it, and these in turn will help to support open nests, such as those of the Blackbird or Song Thrush. The vertical face of a wall can be used for growing Ivy and Honeysuckle, both of which are popular with insects, excellent for House Sparrows, and make for a great foraging and nesting habitat for birds. A dense cover of more exotic varieties of jasmine, wisteria and Barberry have their own value for roosting and nesting birds.

Well-chosen species planted along a boundary can also give added security: plants with thorns, like Holly, Hawthorn, Blackthorn and Barberry, are likely to deter trespassers, and a thick growth of Bramble is as effective a deterrent as barbed wire. No wonder so many small birds nest in such places!

FLOWER BORDERS

Just because the emphasis here is on wildlife, there is no reason to banish many of the usual garden flowers. Indeed, a traditional herbaceous border is not only colourful but is also very good for producing nectar for insects, especially bees and butterflies.

To create a wildlife-friendly border or flowerbed, choose a sunny aspect and select plants that attract insects. Lavender, marigolds, valerians, Foxglove, Sunflower, Red Hot Poker, catmint, flowering tobaccos and spiraeas all flower in summer, while stonecrops and Michaelmas Daisy are ideal for autumn. A good ground-cover species that is also popular with bees in spring is Lungwort. Of course, the actual plants that grow well will depend on your soil and their position in the garden. In small gardens, similar effects can often be created with cleverly planted tubs and hanging baskets.

Thick climbing shrubs provide shelter for nesting birds and roosting places in winter.

Elephant Hawkmoth.

LAWNS

The dominant feature in most gardens is the lawn. It is used by birds such as thrushes and Starlings, which probe into the surface for worms and other invertebrates. It may also be home to some common wildflowers such as Daisy and clovers.

Perfect-looking lawns that are raked, fertilised and weed-free are not good for wildlife. Weedkillers and artificial fertilisers should not be used, as some weeds like clovers feed the lawn with nitrogen and their flowers provide nectar for insects. Wildlife-friendly lawns should be cut less frequently and left to grow a little longer, and one area should be left to grow even longer and seed naturally, before cutting in autumn or, even better, the following March. In larger gardens a wildflower meadow can be planted and then cut after the main flowering season. Finally, never water a lawn as it is too wasteful of this precious resource. Managing your lawn in the manner described can save you time, money and energy, as well as benefiting wildlife!

A well-stocked herbaceous border attracts insects like butterflies, moths, bees and hoverflies.

Robins are often a gardener’s companion.

THE IDEAL LAWN

The ideal lawn arrangement in terms of benefits to wildlife includes areas of short grass where birds can feed, and longer grass that provides seeds and also a habitat for insects and their larvae. Mow the lawn with the blades set at a height of 3.5–5 cm, and stop mowing the area that is to be kept long in May and leave it alone until September. At this time, rake off the ‘hay’ but leave some tall grass until the following March, when it can be cut and raked. If you have more than one area of long grass, cut them in rotation at different times of the year. Cutting long grass can be difficult without a strimmer or powerful mower, although smaller areas may be cut by hand.

TREES

Some new trees will appear naturally in the garden as small seedlings, while others need to be planted. Those that appear naturally are generally species whose seeds are dispersed by the wind, such as the maples, including Sycamore, or those with berries that are dispersed by birds, such as Rowan. To germinate, some seeds need to pass through an animal’s digestive system. Acorns and chestnuts may also be buried by squirrels or Jays, and inevitably some are never retrieved and go on to germinate.

Introducing trees to a garden can be challenging, but don’t be quick to remove existing trees. Studies have shown that trees over 2m high are one of the priorities for wildlife gardens. And, if your available space will permit them, trees add height and interest to any garden, and are hugely beneficial, providing food, shelter, nest sites and shade to a host of different species. They are, of course, generally slow-growing, and care needs to be taken during planting to ensure they are not placed close to a building or somewhere their roots could damage drains or underground cables. Whenever possible, it is advisable to consult a site plan that shows the locations of services before planting trees.

Trees need to suit the size of the garden. Generally speaking, the larger the garden, the larger the trees that can be introduced. To help wildlife, try to select mostly native species, especially those that grow wild locally. Oak and Beech are valuable, but they need plenty of space and take several generations to mature. Rowan and Silver Birch, on the other hand, grow more quickly. Most conifers are not suitable, for the reasons already outlined (see here), but the native Scots Pine may have a place in some gardens, as does the evergreen Holly.

Fruit trees may also be planted in larger gardens. A traditional cultivated Apple, pear or plum tree adds diversity, is good for early bees, provides a fruit crop in autumn, and the windfalls are food for a variety of birds, mammals and insects.

Silver Birch trees produce catkins in spring, and an abundance of seeds (food for tits and finches) in autumn.

Mistle Thrushes may visit to feed on windfalls.

SHRUBS

Shrubs provide food and shelter for insects, which in turn attract a wide variety birds, such as Blue Tits hunting for caterpillars in summer.

As with trees, the number and species of shrubs that can be accommodated in a garden will be dictated by the size of the plot. And, like trees, some shrubs may arrive naturally – birds may bring Holly or Hawthorn, for example, depositing seeds from berries eaten elsewhere amongst their droppings. A mixture of native species and non-native berry-bearing shrubs will help attract insects, give cover for nesting and roosting birds, and provide autumn and winter food for birds and small mammals. Aside from the many native berry-bearing species such as Dog Rose, Elder, Hawthorn, Spindle and Dogwood, attractive shrubs like Barberry and Firethorn are especially good for a variety of birds as they provide them with both food and shelter.

The ground below the shrubs is also important to wildlife. The old leaves that collect here can be home to many tiny invertebrates that are a vital component of the garden food web. A positive sign is when you observe a Blackbird flicking over the dead leaves in search of its prey.

Some shrubs grow quickly and so require regular pruning, but be careful not to prune during the nesting season (March–August), when trimming can expose nests to unnecessary dangers. Also avoid reducing the size of the bush too much in the face of winter, as dense shrubs are often secret night-time roosts for many of our small birds.

PEANUTS, SCRAPS AND SLUG PELLETS

PEANUTS

Peanuts are a highly nutritious bird food; however putting them in gardens can sometimes be a risk to the health of wild birds:

• Poorly kept nuts sometimes contain aflatoxin. To avoid this risk only purchase from a reputable dealer (such as the RSPB).

• Whole nuts in the breeding season can potentially choke young birds so should be avoided at this time, or used in mesh feeders where adults can only take very small portions.

Also, there are usually many more ‘airmiles’ linked to peanuts compared with locally grown Sunflower seeds, which are also popular with many small birds.

KITCHEN SCRAPS

Before commercial bird food was available people generally fed garden birds with ‘kitchen scraps’ and, with care, this is still beneficial – and also contributes to our domestic recycling.

You should avoid desiccated coconut, and long bacon rinds should be chopped short. Cake and breadcrumbs have only limited benefits, but pastry is excellent. Meat and fat chopped and put out in containers will be popular with birds such as Starlings, while thrushes will generally eat soft fruit and food with currants and raisins (although these should be out of reach of cats and dogs).

Be aware that garden birds cannot metabolise salt and that it can be toxic to them in high quantities. For this reason, salted food should never be offered to birds, and nor should salt be used to de-ice birdbaths.

Generally it’s good to remove any uneaten meat before nightfall to prevent rats and Foxes taking it (unless you are feeding Hedgehogs).

SLUG PELLETS

The RSPB encourages gardeners to use non-chemical forms of slug control as much as possible. However, in the event of non-chemical solutions being unsuitable or impractical, the RSPB welcomes and endorses ‘The Slug Pellet Code’. The code is as follows:

• Use slug pellets wisely and, before use, always read the instructions on the pack.

• It is essential that slug pellets are sprinkled thinly on the soil and around the plants being protected – not all plants are favoured by slugs and snails.

• Individual pellets should be placed 10–15 cm apart around the plant. Never pile them up.

• Always secure the container and store safely out of reach of children and pets.

Mesh feeders ensure that birds can only take small pieces at a time reducing the risk of choking when adults feed their chicks.

LOG PILES AND COMPOST HEAPS

Composting plant material is an excellent way to avoid waste and feed garden plants.

LOG PILES

Dead wood is a miniature habitat. It supports fungi as it slowly decays, while the spaces inside and under a wood pile will be colonised by invertebrates such as woodlice, ants and snails. Insects hibernate inside log piles or under the peeling bark, and small mammals such as voles may also be attracted to them. Larger piles may provide nest sites for Wrens and a few other species.

To create a log pile, use local wood from garden tree branches and avoid bringing logs in from woods and other natural sites. If a tree or woody shrub dies in your garden, leave it in situ and let nature take it over, or plant Honeysuckle around it to create a feature.

COMPOST HEAPS

A feature of a good garden is its compost system, which recycles garden and household waste in an effective and eco-friendly way. Modern composters are plastic containers that have limited wildlife value until their contents are eventually fed back into the garden. More traditional compost piles or heaps, on the other hand, have a greater wildlife value, attracting insects, birds that probe them for food, and even reptiles, which may be drawn to the heat generated from the rotting vegetation within.

To prevent rats or Rabbits from digging into a compost heap, it is best to construct a retaining wall of robust wire, burying the lower edge 10 cm or so into the soil. The dimensions of the heap can be 1 sq m or more, and the waste that can be added to it includes grass cuttings, soft garden prunings, leaves, uncooked kitchen vegetable waste, and some newspaper and household shreddings. In general it takes a year for most materials to decompose, although some – such as large amounts of grass cuttings and leaves – will take longer. For this reason some gardeners use a system of several different piles that mature at different times.

WILDFLOWER MEADOWS

Wildflower seeds may be sown such as these colourful annuals.

In larger gardens it may be possible to create a wildflower meadow, either by managing part of the lawn in a different way or by creating a new ‘meadow’. The area does not have to be large, but it does require a sunny position. Access to larger garden meadows can be made more practical and interesting by mowing a narrow winding path through the area.

Creating a meadow can be as simple as letting the grass grow and encouraging wild flowers like clovers and Daisies to spread. However, by introducing wildflower seeds, which can be bought from many suppliers, you will achieve a larger mix of species. Flowers like Cowslip (spring), and Field Scabious and Knapweed (summer) all look attractive and are popular with insects, especially butterflies.

The secret to a wildflower area is knowing how and when it should be cut. This depends on the plants you want to encourage, but the general advice is to cut early in the year (March or at the start of April) and again after the flowers have dropped their seeds (June or July). After cutting, leave the ‘hay’ on the meadow for a few days, to allow the last seeds to fall, before raking it off and adding it to your compost. This will ensure that you have spread seeds for the next year. Also, give the area a last cut before the winter (early October) or leave it until early spring. If you have a large garden meadow you may choose to leave one part mainly for butterflies, cutting it only once a year in March.

BUILDINGS

Given the chance, some wildlife will share our homes. With careful planning this can give us pleasure while at the same time helping a species to survive. Once, when buildings were less well maintained, they contained plenty of gaps where birds and other animals could creep in. Starlings and House Sparrows nested in the eaves, bats roosted in the attic and, of course, spiders appeared in the bath! Some of these species now need our help, and it is possible to erect nest boxes under the eaves – special boxes for Swifts and artificial nests to attract House Martins. If there is a hole under the roof that is regularly used by House Sparrows, Swifts or Starlings, leave it as it is, and regard it as a rare privilege to have these species under your roof.

Garden sheds have always been popular with Robins as nesting sites and, in country gardens, Swallows may take over anything that passes for a barn. There is little we can do to help these species in their nesting, but inadvertently closing a door or window after the birds have started nesting can be disastrous unless you leave a permanent entrance they’re happy to use, like a missing window pane.

It is not only birds that want to share our roof. Insects will also enter a house or outbuilding to hibernate, including ladybirds and Peacock butterflies. House walls may support climbing plants such as Honeysuckle