The Lampshade Book

By M. R. Griffith

The Lampshade Book' is the definitive guide to the designing and creation of lampshades for light fixtures in the home. A book perfect for anyone with an interest in lampshade-making, this antique text provides detailed instructions and tips on creating plethora of different and interesting lampshades in a manner that will greatly appeal to both the amateur and professional alike. This text is split into three parts: 'Introduction', 'Shades Made From Firm Materials', and 'Shades Made From Soft Fabrics'. Contained within these sections are such chapters as: The Fluted Shade, Pleated Shades, The Skirt Shade, Cone Shades, Sectional Fabric Shades, A bowed Empire Shade with a Balloon Lining, et cetera. This text has been elected for modern republication due to its educational value, and we are proud to republish it here with a new introduction to the topic.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Read Books Ltd.
• Release date: Sep 6, 2016
• ISBN: 9781473353299

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shade

PART I

INTRODUCTION

CHAPTER

1

Before Starting to Make a Lampshade

LAMPSHADE making is a modern craft. It is only since the introduction of electric lighting that it has become possible to use the variety of materials which are to be seen on lampshades to-day. In the past, shades were made to protect the naked light from the draught, but to-day their purpose is to shade the strong light from our eyes, and to direct it to that part of the room where it is required.

There are several things to be considered before starting to make a lampshade.

1. Shape and Size. The shape of the base and the position of the lamp in the room must be considered, together with the period of furnishings in the room. A modern shade will look out of place in a room furnished in the Regency or Victorian periods, and vice versa. Paper silhouettes of various types of shades may be held over the base to see which appears to be the most suitable and pleasing.

2. Materials. These may be divided into two categories:

(a) Firm Materials which include various sorts of paper; oiled parchment, old maps, deeds, etc.; unoiled parchment (usually called imitation sheepskin) ; plastics, such as crinothene and the acetates—the latter can now be bought clear, matt, printed or flocked in an increasing variety of colours and designs; and finally raffia and cane, which are used for some of the more modern types of shades.

(b) Soft Fabrics. Practically any soft fabric can be used, but silks, satins and rayons are the most popular and easiest to manipulate.

3. Trimmings. These vary from simple cords and braids to elaborate knotted and bobbled fringes, and it is mainly the trimmings which determine whether a shade will be inexpensive or costly to make. The trimmings should tone with the material covering the shade, but if there is some other colour in the room which it is particularly wished to emphasise, this may be introduced in a two-colour trimming.

4. Colour. This is one of the most important points to be considered. The material must tone with the general colour scheme of the room, and the finished shade must become part of the room. It should be pleasing to the eye both in the daytime, and when lit at night. It is usual for shades to be covered in warm but unobtrusive tones of peach, pink, oyster or ivory, although some of the modern shades are deep red or bright yellow. It is always wise to avoid using orange which is a very hot colour, and blue or green which give out an extremely cold light. If it is really necessary to bring out these colours in the shade, then they should be introduced into the trimming as described in the previous paragraph.

CHAPTER

2

Types of Frames and Fittings

HAVING considered and decided upon the four points mentioned in the previous chapter, the next step is the purchase of a suitable frame. This must be strong enough to bear the strain which the material will put upon it. Good frames are made in steel or copper wire, both of which are strong and very suitable.

The thickness of wire is measured in gauges, and the following are the gauges which are recommended:

For large shades such as floor standards—12 gauge.

For medium shades such as table-lamps—14 gauge.

For small shades such as candle lamps—16 gauge.

Thinner wires cannot be recommended as they bend too easily.

There are several types of fitments, each designed for a special purpose. The bulb, or butterfly clip (Fig. 1a) fits directly on to the bulb and is used on small shades such as those for candle lamps and wall brackets, where the bulb fits into a base socket but a swivel gimbal would be impracticable. The swivel gimbal (Fig. 1b) is used for table-lamps, so that the shade can be tilted and the light directed to a certain position. The pendant fitting (Fig. 1c), as its name suggests, is used for any hanging shade, but it can be adapted for use on a table-lamp by the purchase of a separate swivel fitment (Fig. 1g). The spider (Fig. 1d) is an adaptation of the pendant fitting, and is designed to carry a wide shade, such as an inverted bowl shape, on its shoulders. The duplex fitting (Fig. 1e) is the one found on very large frames. It is used in conjunction with a shade carrier (Fig. 1f), and fits on to its shoulders.

FIG. 1. Types of Frame Fitments

FIG. 2. Types of Frame in General Use

Fig. 2 shows some of the types of frames in general use. The loose rings (Fig. 2a) are used for cone and skirt shaped shades when these are made of firm materials. They