Methods of Budding for the Gardener - With Information on Grafting, Cutting and Other Aspects of Budding
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Methods of Budding for the Gardener - With Information on Grafting, Cutting and Other Aspects of Budding - Read Books Ltd.
Methods of Budding
for the Gardener
With Information on Grafting,
Cutting and Other Aspects of
Budding
By
M. G. Kains
L. M. Mcquesten
Contents
METHODS OF BUDDING3
METHODS OF BUDDING
377. Bud grafting is so special a form of graftage that it is generally called budding. It is a form in which a single bud with little or no wood is applied to the cambium of the stock (always growing in normal position), usually beneath the bark. Many species of plants are propagated by either budding or grafting; others do better by one and not the other method, but there is no general rule by which decision can be made, though thin-barked plants with copious sap generally succeed best when grafted or when buds are used at the time of smallest sap flow.
Budding is widely popular for propagating fruit trees of all kinds, especially the stone fruits. In nurseries it is more extensively employed than is grafting. Roses, lilacs and many ornamental trees are similarly treated.
378. Condition of nursery for successful work. The nursery ground must have been well worked and kept free from weeds. Moisture must be available to the trees at all times so the stocks will make strong, rapid growth. It is essential that the cambium layer be active at the time of budding so as to have the bark lift easily for the budding operation. In arid regions, an irrigation a week before budding may be required to loosen the bark if the previous moisture supply has not been sufficient to do so.
379. Budding knives are of many styles, and operators have their pronounced preferences, but probably the one most used in the big commercial nurseries for field work is in Figure 279. It costs about $1.75 by the dozen. The budding knife should be made of the finest steel, have a thin blade about 2″ long; the cutting edge, kept razor sharp, should extend from front to back in a quarter circle. The blade should be set in a light, convenient handle, which may be stationary or slotted to receive it. The straight part of the blade is used for general purposes, such as bud cutting, and the curved end for making incisions in stocks. Many budding