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    Ulster
    Ulster
    Ulster
    Ebook82 pages1 hour

    Ulster

    By Stephen Lucius Gwynn

    ()

    Read preview
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherArchive Classics
    Release dateNov 27, 2013
    Ulster

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      Book preview

      Ulster - Stephen Lucius Gwynn

      The Project Gutenberg EBook of Ulster, by Stephen Lucius Gwynn

      This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with

      almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or

      re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included

      with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org

      Title: Ulster

      Author: Stephen Lucius Gwynn

      Release Date: June 16, 2013 [EBook #42958]

      Language: English

      *** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ULSTER ***

      Produced by sp1nd, Diane Monico, and the Online Distributed

      Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was

      produced from images generously made available by The

      Internet Archive)

      MUCKROSS BAY, KILLYBEGS, DONEGAL

      ULSTER

      Described by Stephen Gwynn

      Pictured by Alexander Williams

      BLACKIE AND SON LIMITED

      LONDON GLASGOW AND BOMBAY

      1911

      Beautiful Ireland

      LEINSTER

      ULSTER

      MUNSTER

      CONNAUGHT

      Uniform with this Series

      Beautiful England

      Oxford

      The English Lakes

      Canterbury

      Shakespeare-Land

      The Thames

      Windsor Castle

      Cambridge

      Norwich and the Broads

      The Heart of Wessex

      The Peak District

      The Cornish Riviera

      Dickens-Land

      Winchester

      The Isle of Wight

      Chester and the Dee

      York

      TABLE OF CONTENTS

      LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

      AT THE GAP OF THE NORTH

      Ulster is a province much talked of and little understood—a name about which controversy rages. But to those who know it and who love it, one thing is clear—Ulster is no less Ireland than Connaught itself. No better song has been written in our days than that which tells of an Irishman's longing in London to be back where the mountains of Mourne sweep down to the sea; nor indeed is the whole frame of mind which that song dramatises, with so pleasant a blending of humour and pathos, better expressed in any single way than in the phrase thinking long—an idiom common to all Ulster talk, whether in Down or Donegal. And when I who write these lines think long for Ireland, it is to Ulster that my thought goes back, back to the homely ways and the quaint speech of northern folk, hard yet kindly, with the genial welcome readier even in their rough accent than in smoothest Munster: for these things there rises in my mind the vague aching, half-remembrance, half-desire, which we call thinking long. It is a far cry from Belfast, with its clang of riveters, to the vast loneliness of Slieve League or Dunlewy; and yet the great captain of industry, nurtured and proven in the keenest commerce, has upon his tongue, in his features, in the whole cast of his nature, these very traits which endear themselves to me in some Irish-speaking schoolmaster of western Donegal. Soil, climate, and common memories—these are what identify and what bind. No man gets his living too easily in Ulster, and need makes neighbourly. Protestant and Catholic have to fight the same battle with hard weather—of which perhaps even the summer traveller may form some judgment; they are rewarded by the same loveliness which makes a fine day in Ulster the most enchanting upon earth; and they fend against the stress of storm by the same warm shelter, the same glow of the turf-piled hearth.

      The Ulster of which I shall write in these few pages is the Ulster of four sea-bordering counties only, Donegal, Derry, Antrim, and Down, since beyond doubt these exceed the other five in attractions. Only let a word be said of two great lakes. Lough Erne, which belongs mainly to Fermanagh, though bordering Donegal in part, is to its champions the Cinderella of Irish waters, and some day it will come into its inheritance of fame. Lough Neagh, with its eighty miles of shore, divided among five counties, has never been seen by me but in tranquil loveliness, one vast sheet of shimmering blue; and whether at Antrim, where many memories have their monuments, or at Toomebridge, where the Bann flows out majestically, has seemed well worth a day's journey—the more because its beauty is set among lands not fertile, yet prosperously tilled and inhabited by people, not rich indeed, yet safely removed from the stress of poverty. Not far from it is Armagh, a cathedral city, richer in associations than any in Ireland. If I do not write of Armagh, it is because the oldest of these associations has its monument also at the southern gate of Ulster, where the division of the province is best marked.

      Carlingford Lough, according to modern geography, marks that division, but in

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