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Brisbane & Queensland Australia
Brisbane & Queensland Australia
Brisbane & Queensland Australia
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Brisbane & Queensland Australia

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Following are a few paragraphs from this inspiring and astonishingly detailed guide. The author, a native Australian, covers everything you might want to know about Queensland - guaranteed! The places to stay in every part of Queensland, from budget to lu
LanguageEnglish
Release dateAug 3, 2009
ISBN9781588437778
Brisbane & Queensland Australia
Author

Holly Smith

Holly was born in Hamilton, Ontario. She moved to the island of Victoria, British Columbia, with her two young children and they all spent countless summer vacations on Salt Spring Island with her two brothers, Joey and Tony. Holly now resides in the quaint, seaside village of Dundarave in West Vancouver, with her two chubby cats and writes children’s books with her beautiful daughter, Krista. This is her second book. Krista grew up on Vancouver Island in Victoria, British Columbia and now lives with her husband and daughter close to Vancouver in the beautiful city of Port Moody. She loves writing, especially stories with her mom, traveling, hanging out with her family, and spending time at the beach. This is her second book.

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    Brisbane & Queensland Australia - Holly Smith

    Brisbane & Australia's Queensland

    HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC.

    www.hunterpublishing.com

    E-mail comments@hunterpublishing.com

    IN CANADA:

    Ulysses Travel Publications

    4176 Saint-Denis, Montréal, Québec

    Canada H2W 2M5

    tel. 514-843-9882 ext. 2232 / fax 514-843-9448

    IN THE UNITED KINGDOM:

    Windsor Books International

    5, Castle End Park, Castle End Rd, Ruscombe

    Berkshire, RG10 9XQ England

    tel. 01189-346-367 / fax 01189-346-368

    This and other Hunter travel guides are also available as e-books

    in a variety of digital formats through our online partners, including

    eBooks.com, Overdrive.com, Ebrary.com and NetLibrary.com.

    All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form, or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the written permission of the publisher. Brief excerpts for review or promotional purposes are permitted.

    This guide focuses on recreational activities. As all such activities contain elements of risk, the publisher, author, affiliated individuals and companies disclaim any responsibility for any injury, harm, or illness that may occur to anyone through, or by use of, the information in this book. Every effort was made to insure the accuracy of information in this book, but the publisher and author do not assume, and hereby disclaim, any liability for loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential travel problems caused by this guide, even if such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident or any other cause.

    Contents

    All About Australia

    The Dreamtime

    The Explorers

    The Criminals

    The Settlers

    The Gold-Seekers

    The Vintners

    The Adventurers

    The Rebels

    The Citizens

    The Soldiers

    The Australians

    Six States, Two Territories, & Many Islands

    Surrounding Properties

    The Government

    The Land

    A Moving Puzzle

    A Vast & Barren Core

    Refreshing Waterways

    Farmland Bounty & Natural Riches

    Australian Flora: Unique & Unexpected

    The Forests & Fields

    The Deserts

    Australian Wildlife: Weird & Wonderful

    Brilliant Bird Life

    Bugs, Grubs, & Spiders

    Turtles, Snakes, & Crocs

    Other Water Creatures

    National Parks & Protected Areas

    The Australians

    The People

    Crazy for Sports

    Australian Arts

    Poets & Writers

    Visual Arts

    On the Stage & Big Screen

    Theater

    Movies

    Australian Music

    The Australian Palate

    Distinctly Aussie Cuisine

    Down the Hatch

    Getting Here & Getting Around

    Getting to Australia

    By Air

    From North America

    From Europe

    From Africa

    From Asia

    Connections with China

    Connections with India

    Connections with Indonesia

    Connections with Malaysia & Singapore

    To Antarctica

    By Sea

    Cruise Ships

    Getting Around Australia

    By Air

    Major Airlines

    Regional Airlines

    Charter Airlines

    By Sea

    Cruise Ships

    By Train

    By Road

    Buses

    Driving

    Basic Road Rules

    Car Seats for Children

    Major Preparations

    Car Rentals

    Other Helpful National Resources

    Motorcycles

    Biking

    Travel Information

    General Information

    Addresses & Phone Numbers

    Banking

    Businesses, Shops, & Attractions

    Climate

    Credit Cards

    Currency & Exchange

    Customs

    Disabled Travelers

    Health & Safety

    Internet

    Language & Manners

    Lodging

    Major Hotels, Motels, & Resorts

    Apartment Rentals

    Home Exchanges

    Bed-&-Breakfasts & Guesthouses

    Hostels & Budget Accommodations

    Camping

    Mail & Postal Services

    News

    Shopping

    Taxes

    The Tourist Refund Scheme

    The Mysterious VAT

    Telephones

    Cellphone Rentals

    Time Zones

    Tipping

    Visa Requirements

    Embassies & Consulates in Australia

    Voltage

    Whom to Contact

    Australian Tourism Authorities

    State Tourism Boards

    City Information

    Websites

    Queensland

    Brisbane & the South

    The Land

    Flora & Fauna

    Getting Here

    By Air

    Airports

    By Sea

    Brisbane

    Townsville

    Cairns

    Getting Around

    By Air

    Airports

    The Mainland

    The Islands

    By Water

    Ferries & Water Taxis

    Brisbane

    By Rail

    Interstate Lines

    Main City Stations

    Trains

    Local Lines

    By Road

    Driving

    Rental Agencies

    Taxis

    Buses

    Local Buses

    Brisbane

    The Gold Coast

    The Sunshine Coast

    Bus Stations

    Information Sources

    National Parks & Natural Areas

    Other Helpful Local Resources

    Adventures in Queensland

    In the Air

    Flightseeing

    Around Brisbane

    The Gold Coast

    Around Bundaberg

    Fraser Island

    Rockhampton

    The West - Longreach

    By Helicopter

    The Gold Coast

    The Sunshine Coast

    The West - Longreach

    By Hot Air Balloon

    Around Brisbane

    The Gold Coast

    On Foot

    Bushwalking

    Around Brisbane - Brisbane Forest Park

    Main Range National Park

    The Gold Coast

    Tamborine Mountain National Park

    Springbrook National Park

    Lamington National Park

    The Sunshine Coast

    Conondale National Park

    Kondalilla Falls National Park

    Mapleton Falls National Park

    The Glass House Mountains

    Around Rockhampton

    Blackdown Tableland National Park

    Lark Quarry Environmental Park

    The West

    West of Brisbane - Sturt Stony Desert National Park

    West of Rockhampton - Simpson Desert National Park

    Beach Walking

    Around Brisbane

    The Stradbroke Islands

    The Gold Coast

    Fraser Island National Park

    Great Sandy National Park

    Sandboarding

    Fossicking

    South of Brisbane -The Sunshine Coast

    The South Burnett Region

    Around Rockhampton

    Mt. Hay Gemstone Park

    Mt. Morgan

    Namoi Hills Cattle Station

    West of Rockhampton

    Sapphire Gemfields

    Rubyvale

    Sapphire

    The West

    Around Quilpie

    Spelunking

    Around Brisbane

    Cedar Creek Estate Glow Worm Caves

    Around Rockhampton

    Mt. Etna Caves National Park

    Capricorn Caves

    Wildlife Watching

    The Gold Coast

    The Sunshine Coast & North

    Tin Can Bay

    Around Hervey Bay

    Mon Repos Conservation Park

    Around Gladstone

    Heron Island

    Around Rockhampton

    By Camel

    Around Brisbane

    The Sunshine Coast

    Around Hervey Bay

    Around Rockhampton

    The West

    Around Longreach

    On Horseback

    Around Brisbane

    The Gold Coast

    The Sunshine Coast & North

    Around Hervey Bay

    Susan River Homestead

    The Noosa Heads Area

    Gladstone

    Around Rockhampton

    The West

    Around Longreach

    On Wheels

    Bicycling & Mountain Biking

    Brisbane

    Four-Wheel-Drive Excursions

    Around Brisbane

    The Moreton Bay Islands

    Moreton Island

    The West

    West of Rockhampton

    The Birdsville Track

    By Rail

    Great Rail Journeys

    Brisbane

    The Gold Coast

    Beaudesert

    Beenleigh

    Ipswich

    Murwillumbah

    The Sunshine Coast & North

    Bundaberg

    Rockhampton

    On the Water

    Boating & Sailing

    Cruises

    Brisbane

    Around Brisbane

    The Gold Coast

    The Stradbroke Islands

    The Sunshine Coast

    Around Agnes Water

    Eurimbula National Park

    The West

    Around Longreach

    Bundaberg

    Sundown National Park

    Surfing

    Around Brisbane

    The Gold Coast

    Around Surfers Paradise

    Around Coolangatta/ Tweed Heads

    The Sunshine Coast

    Around Noosa Heads

    Around Bundaberg

    Around Agnes Water

    Around Rockhampton

    Scuba Diving & Snorkeling

    Around Brisbane

    Toowoomba

    The Moreton Bay Islands

    The Gold Coast

    The Sunshine Coast

    Around Mooloolaba

    Laguna Bay

    Around Noosa

    Hervey Bay

    Dive Areas Farthern North

    Agnes Water/Town of 1770

    Around Bundaberg

    Lady Musgrave Island

    Lady Elliot Island

    Around Gladstone

    Heron Island

    Around Rockhampton

    The Keppel Islands

    Cultural Excursions

    Around Brisbane

    The Gold Coast

    The Sunshine Coast

    Around Rockhampton

    The West

    Station Tours

    The National Parks

    Carnarvon National Park

    Sightseeing

    Brisbane

    City Tours

    Around Brisbane

    Along the Gold Coast

    Southwest of Brisbane

    The Sunshine Coast

    Around Caloundra

    Maroochy

    Inland Towns

    Noosa Heads

    Hervey Bay

    Bundaberg

    Agnes Water/Town of 1770

    Gladstone

    Rockhampton

    Yeppoon

    Highways West of Rockhampton

    Barcaldine

    Longreach

    Winton

    Kynuna

    Central Queensland & the Great Barrier Reef

    Getting Here & Around

    By Air

    Regional Airlines

    Local Airlines

    Main Airports

    By Water

    Cruise Ships

    Ferries & Water Taxis

    From Airlie Beach

    The Whitsunday Islands

    From the Ingham Area

    From Mackay - Brampton Island

    From Mission Beach - The Family Islands

    Magnetic Island

    By Rail

    Trains

    By Road

    Driving

    Buses

    Local Buses

    Information Sources

    Local Tourism Boards and Travel Offices

    The Coast & Islands

    The West

    National Parks and Natural Areas

    Adventures in Central Queensland

    By Air

    Flightseeing Tours

    Around Airlie Beach

    Around Mackay

    Around Townsville

    Around Mission Beach

    The West

    On Foot

    Bushwalking

    Around Airlie Beach - Conway National Park

    Conway State Forest

    Around Mackay - Eungella National Park

    Around Mission Beach

    Licuala State Forest

    Around Townsville - Bowling Green Bay National Park

    The West

    Around Mt. Isa - Boodjamulla National Park

    Beach Walking

    Around Airlie Beach

    Around Mackay - Cape Hillsborough National Park

    Around Townsville

    Rock Climbing & Abseiling

    Spelunking

    Around Mt. Isa - Camooweal Caves National Park

    Fossicking

    Around Mackay

    Around Hughenden - Chudleigh Park

    Mt. Emu Goldfields

    Around Mt. Isa

    Boodjamulla National Park

    Around Winton

    Wildlife Watching

    Around Airlie Beach - Barefoot Bushman's Wildlife Park

    Edmund Kennedy National Park

    Around Ingham - Girringun National Park

    Mt. Spec National Park

    Paluma Range National Park

    Around Innisfail

    Around Mackay - Illawong Sanctuary

    Around Mission Beach - Clump Mountain National Park

    Around Townsville - Town Common Conservation Park

    Billabong Sanctuary

    On Horseback

    Around Airlie Beach

    Around Mackay

    Around Townsville

    The West - Around Mt. Isa

    On Wheels - Scenic Drives

    Around Cardwell - Cardwell Forest Drive

    Around Townsville - The Great Green Way

    Around Winton - The Opalton Track

    Four-Wheel-Drive Excursions

    Around Mt. Isa

    On the Water

    Boating & Sailing - From Airlie Beach

    Day Trips

    Overnight Cruises

    From Mackay

    From Mission Beach

    Around Townsville

    Kayaking

    From Airlie Beach

    From Mission Beach

    From Townsville

    Around Mt. Isa

    Rafting

    Around Airlie Beach

    Around Mission Beach

    Around Townsville

    Surfing

    Around Townsville

    Scuba Diving & Snorkeling

    Around Airlie Beach - Day Trips

    Overnight Dive Trips

    Dive Certification Trips

    Around Mackay

    Around Mission Beach - Day Trips

    Overnight Trips

    Around Townsville - Day Trips

    Cultural Excursions

    Around Mackay

    Greenmount Historic Homestead

    Around Mission Beach

    Echo Adventure & Cultural Centre

    Jumbun

    Around Townsville

    The West

    Around Mt. Isa

    Kajabbi

    Tour Companies

    The Great Barrier Reef Islands

    From the Air 

    Flightseeing - Offshore of Airlie Beach - The Whitsunday Islands

    Hot Air Balloon

    On Foot

    Bushwalking

    Offshore of Airlie Beach

    The Lindeman Islands - Lindeman Island

    Long Island

    The Molle Islands

    Offshore of Mission Beach - Dunk Island

    Hinchinbrook Island

    Beach Walking

    Offshore of Mackay - The Cumberland Islands

    Offshore of Townsville - Magnetic Island

    By Camel & Horseback

    Offshore of Mission Beach

    Offshore of Townsville

    On Wheels

    Four-Wheel-Drive Excursions - Hamilton Island

    Magnetic Island

    On the Water

    Cruising & Sailing

    Daydream Island

    Hamilton Island

    Hinchinbrook Island

    The Palm Islands

    Offshore of Townsville

    Magnetic Island

    Kayaking

    Offshore of Airlie Beach - The Whitsunday Islands

    Offshore of Mission Beach - Dunk Island

    Offshore of Townsville - Magnetic Island

    Scuba Diving & Snorkeling

    Offshore of Airlie Beach - The Whitsunday Islands

    Offshore of Mission Beach - Bedarra Island

    Dunk Island

    Orpheus Island

    Offshore of Townsville - Magnetic Island

    Sightseeing

    Around Mackay

    The South - Around Airlie Beach

    The Central Coast

    Townsville

    Inland from Townsville

    Ravenswood

    Charters Towers

    Hughenden

    Richmond

    Toward Mt. Isa

    Cloncurry

    Mt. Isa

    Other Sights

    Camooweal

    North of Townsville

    Ingham

    Cardwell

    Tully

    Around Mission Beach - Mission Beach

    Innisfail

    Where to Eat

    The Coast

    Airlie Beach

    Mackay

    Mission Beach

    Townsville

    The West

    Mt. Isa

    Offshore of Airlie Beach - The Whitsundays

    Hamilton Island

    Hayman Island

    Offshore of Townsville

    Where to Stay

    The Central Coast

    Hotels, Resorts & Lodges

    Around Airlie Beach

    Around Mackay

    Around Mission Beach

    Around Townsville

    Mt. Isa

    Apartments & Houses

    Houseboats

    Around Ingham

    Pubs & Roadhouses

    Around Mackay

    Around Townsville

    Around Mt. Isa

    Stations, Farmstays, & Homesteads

    Around Mackay

    Around Mission Beach

    Around Charters Towers

    Around Mt. Isa

    Bed-and-Breakfasts & Guesthouses

    Airlie Beach

    Around Mackay

    Mission Beach

    Around Townsville

    Mt. Isa

    The Islands

    Hotels & Resorts

    Offshore of Airlie Beach 

    Hamilton Island

    Hayman Island

    Hinchinbrook Island

    Hook Island

    Lindeman Island

    Long Island

    The Molle Islands

    Offshore of Mission Beach

    The Family Islands

    Daydream Island

    Dunk Island

    The Palm Islands

    Offhore of Mackay

    The Cumberland Islands

    Offshore of Townsville

    Magnetic Island

    Bed-and-Breakfasts & Guesthouses

    Offshore of Townsville

    Magnetic Island

    Hostels & Budget Accommodations

    Offshore of Townsville

    Magnetic Island

    Camping

    Activities & Entertainment

    By Day

    The Central Coast

    Mackay

    Townsville

    The Arts

    Mt. Isa

    By Night

    Bars & Clubs

    Airlie Beach

    Mackay

    Townsville

    Mt. Isa

    Gambling

    Townsville

    Offshore of Townsville

    Shopping

    Malls & Markets

    The Central Coast - Airlie Beach

    Townsville

    Malls

    Markets

    The Islands

    All About Australia

    The Dreamtime

    Imagine a world covered in ice sheets more than a kilometer thick, with the endless forests and fields between them covering a landscape that today is deep underwater. A dry, flat valley connects the Australia mainland with New Guinea to the northeast, and just 45 miles/72 km of sea – rather than some 299 miles/483 km, as it is now – separates the continent's northwestern edge from the southeast coast of Asia. Inland, cool greenery covers what will in eons be the stark red Outback desert, and the very heart of the country is pocketed with vast lakes and wetlands surrounded with lush, windswept fields. This was Australia 60,000 years ago, in the time of the first Aborigines.

    What brought these first dark-skinned, wiry-haired, bony-limbed humans to the continent is a mystery, but the abundance of food kept waves of humans migrating south. The original settlers first camped along the islands and north coasts near Darwin, then worked their way down the east coast near Sydney over the next 15,000 years. Slowly, tribes moved farther down the continent, finally reaching the south coast near Melbourne about 40,000 years ago, and even Tasmania by around 28,000 BC.

    The new cultures thrived on this freshly-carved continent, living nomadic lives that took little from the land and flourished in both tropical and desert environments. Tribes were adept at the arts, painting hundreds of images along sheltered rock overhangs and in shallow caves, where the earliest, simple scenes of families and hunters gradually expanded to include kangaroos, thylacines, boomerangs, spears, and even the surrounding foliage. More than 500 Aboriginal groups existed throughout Australia, most with their own language or dialect. Each culture's traditions and events were preserved through songs, stories, and finely-honed rock etchings and paintings. The tribes also appointed themselves caretakers of the earth around them, their art and rituals recording specific characteristics of the land and creatures under their domain.

    And to survive in what was quickly becoming one of the world's harshest environments, the Aborigines created an innovative array of tools for hunting and building. The most unusual was the boomerang, a flat, curving piece of wood thrown outward to knock out game. Smaller weapons were flung at small prey such as birds. They returned to the hunter in a full circle if he missed. Bigger, heavier boomerangs, which were often carved and painted with intricate designs, were used to stun larger prey like kangaroos. The tribes also used axes, javelins, and woomeras, long attachments that extended the range of their spears. Nets were woven to trap wallabies, wombats, and smaller game. Dingos were domesticated and taught to chase down kangaroos, or to search for such burrowing game as wombats.

    Everyone participated in finding bounty on the earth. Women gathered bush raisins and bush tomatoes (fruits and berries from desert plants). Seeds were stone-ground into flour, mixed with moisture into a pasty dough, and cooked over the fire. Water was found at billabongs, by tapping into underground streams, and by cutting into the hollow roots of moisture-rich shrubs and trees. Certain types of frogs, which lived deep underground in drought times, were eaten for the moisture stored in their bodies. Small, sharp sticks were whittled to dig plump white, protein-rich witchetty grubs from the earth, while longer sticks helped reach into termite and ant mounds, or dig up deep-set plants with edible roots. The land was regularly burned to create new pastures, where fresh plants would grow and grazing animals could be easily hunted.

    The Explorers

    To outsiders, the Australian continent was sheer enigma during these eras, and most of those in the burgeoning cities of Europe and Asia had neither care nor curiosity about its existence. Known only as Terra Australis Incognita, or The Unknown Southern Land, Australia conjured up images of clear, sparkling seas and white, sandy coasts, with snowy mountains and alpine valleys in between. In the 1400s, Portuguese traders made their way along Australia's north and east coasts; their sketches, known as the Dieppe Maps, were crude but accurate clues to the vast continent. In 1606, William Jansz cast off from Java toward the Cape York Peninsula in the Duyfken, and christened the land New Holland. A year later, the Spanish explorer Torres – as in the Torres Strait between Australia and New Guinea – made his way down the Great Barrier Reef.

    The Dutch continued to make headway toward mapping the continent, as Dirk Hartog's Eendracht cruised into Shark Bay in 1616, and Francois Pelseart's Batavia cruised toward the western coast in 1629. Abel Tasman wandered along the south coast and Tasmania in 1642, calling his discovery Van Diemen's Land after the governor of the Dutch East Indies (today's Indonesia). The remote, foreboding spot was turned into a harshly-managed penal colony, and it was 202 years before the island was rechristened in Tasman's namesake to shake off its stigma of death and despair.

    In 1688 and 1699, the British arrived on Australia's west coast when pirate William Dampier traversed the shoreline between Carnarvon and Broome on his way north to Indonesia. A scientific expedition in the Pacific Ocean, mounted in 1768 by the British, finally led foreign explorers to actually get a foothold on the Australian continent. Manning the Endeavor was 40-year-old Captain James Cook, who was in charge of an intrepid group of naturalists, scientists, artists, and astronomers employed to record everything they found on their journey. Somehow, even after Dampier's adventure, England had so far missed out on the fact that Terra Australis was no longer a myth. Hence, the crew's mission was to first find the continent, and then to actually dock the boat, get out, and explore for all they were worth.

    The team first landed in New Zealand, then made it to the far southeastern tip of Australia, which Cook dubbed Point Hicks. The crew couldn't find a safe landing spot, however, so they headed north along the coast for nine more days until they came to a sheltered spot they named Botany Bay. After a respite to log accounts of the area's strange flora and fauna, the men again headed northwest, this time skimming along the coast parallel to the Great Barrier Reef. The sharp shelves snagged the ship in northern Queensland, however, and the crew was waylaid for six weeks where the settlement of Cooktown now stands. When they finally cast off, the next leg of their journey rounded the northeastern tip of Cape York. Cook anchored off a bit of land he rather greedily dubbed Possession Island, then stuck the Union Jack flag into the ground and claimed the entire territory of Australia for England.

    Ignoring the fact that other people might already live on this strange continent, English royalty judged the land to be terra nullius (no one's land), and immediately gathered Australia into their growing flock of colonial countries. Cook's landing points were quickly named, and most still stick today, including Botany Bay near Sydney, the Indian Head bluffs on Fraser Island, Magnetic Island off Townsville, and Cape Tribulation. Cook also bestowed the entire continent with the new name New South Wales, after his homeland. Little more needed to be done to complete his major coup of convincing the world that the Australian continent belonged to the British, and the British alone.

    And Cook's adventures didn't end yet, as he continued to explore the east coast of Australia and the Great Barrier Reef. Back at home, though, his descriptions of the lush, remote continent had an unexpected effect; rather than sparking visions of a huge resort playground for European rulers, they were instead stirring up thoughts of a convenient criminal outpost. In England, it was an era of war, chaos, and poverty, when – despite there being some 200 offenses legally punishable by death – convicts were overflowing the prisons and bands of thugs were often left to take over the streets. Cook's journey to isolated Norfolk Island in 1774 inspired further ideas for another out-of-the-way penal colony. It didn't take long to gather some of England's worst criminals for an eight-month voyage down under, where they could do little to damage England's shining reputation and growing Asian domain.

    The Criminals

    Eleven more British ships glided into Australian waters in 1788, bringing tools, goods, and detailed plans for a new settlement at Port Jackson, near where the cosmopolitan world city of Sydney stands today. Cook's original landing point at Botany Bay had lacked water, fertile soil, and adequate moorage for the thousands of passengers expected to disembark here, so a British government team had scouted out the better port six miles/10 km farther northeast. More significantly, the ships also brought the first 759 convicts from England's jam-packed prisons, who were closely watched by 206 guards. The ships that followed brought hundreds more criminals, effectively jettisoning about one-fifth of England's worst outlaws.

    Captain Arthur Phillip, the fleet's commander, governed the new Port Jackson colony from 1788 through 1792, during which time more than 160,000 adult and child convicts were sent to the outpost. Irish rebels joined the masses starting in the early 1800s, staging an unsuccessful uprising at a government farm on Castle Hill, on the colony's outskirts. Outside the prison walls, Sydney was a flourishing town of timber homes, wide wharves, and neat brown docks set along rocky shores and backed by mountainous temperate forests. Over the following century, more penal colonies were set up all around the continent's edges, with settlements established at Moreton Bay, near modern-day Brisbane, in 1824; at Albany, Western Australia, in 1827; and at Port Arthur, Tasmania, in 1830.

    The Settlers

    Besides the authorities, guards, their families, Asian migrants, and the local Aboriginal tribes, there were few others to fill the country but convicts. Prisoners with good behavior received conditional pardons, which meant they were free but couldn't leave the colony. Those who were granted full pardons were free to pick up and settle down anywhere they liked, and most headed straight for the cities. Others, however, preferred to continue their rogue lives, and headed out to seek their fortunes in the unknown Outback. Many prison colonies were also abandoned and turned into proper settlements soon after they were established, providing secure dwelling places for convicts who were starting new lives.

    When the English arrived in Australia, there were already 250,000 to 750,000 Aborigines dwelling in 500 to 650 small groups all over the continent, much like the Native Americans before the British arrived on the east coast of America. Each group had its own language, social customs, and laws, as well as a separate but overlapping territory with neighboring tribes. These generally congenial people still lived in small groups and depended on their natural resources to survive, respecting the ways of outsiders they met and observing strict tribal laws that nurtured and replenished the land. However, during the next century, the British quickly took over these Aboriginal regions, expelling the clans out to the most barren terrain or into slavery on farmlands and plantations.

    After 1813, when Gregory Blaxland, William Wentworth, and William Lawson finally blazed a trail through the formidable Great Dividing Range, the fertile central riverlands were opened for settlement. So great was the region's farming potential that by 1831 the British government was pushing even its poorest citizens into migration. New towns quickly built up along the best bends and estuaries, with Melbourne established in 1835 and Adelaide planned a year later. The Murray River, Australia's largest and longest waterway, soon became the major crop and wool transport lane in the south.

    The Gold-Seekers

    In May of 1851, the world changed. Gold was discovered near Bathurst, New South Wales, inciting a flood of hopeful diggers from Sydney to try their luck in the mines.

    The lure of riches also attracted many poor Chinese immigrants, who were despised by the locals as competition for what little gold there was.

    As workers in Melbourne began disappearing to try their luck in the New South Wales goldfields, the city government offered a reward for anyone who struck gold within 180 miles/300 km of their own settlement. It took just a week for a prospector to turn up gold along the Yarra River, and by September huge lodes had turned up at Clunes and Ballarat, in central Victoria. Over the next decade the population of Victoria rose more than eightfold, from 77,000 to 540,000, while the country as a whole swelled from 400,000 to a million-plus residents.

    Much of the gold was tapped out by the 1890s, however, and the sparkling new Outback gold towns quickly dwindled into dusty, delapidated villages. Those who didn't strike gold tried their luck at farming, planting the country's early fruit orchards and berry fields. Today Australia is still a key producer of apples, avocados, bananas, and pineapples, and the country's berries are among the world's best. Surprisingly, in the Mediterranean-like climate of the upper south coast, you'll also find olive groves, tangerine orchards, and asparagus fields.

    The Vintners

    Something else was going on around this time as well, the beginnings of a massive and important industry which today is a defining character of Australia. The first grape vines were planted by the original First Fleet immigrants, although it wasn't until 1822 that the country's first wine export was sent by a Sydney-area vineyard owner to London. His label won second place in an international wine competition the following year, and Australia's wine industry was born. John and Elizabeth Macarthur opened the country's first commercial vineyard on their Sydney farm in 1827. During the next decade, a swathe of small vineyards were planted in the Hunter Valley, some 120 miles/200 km northeast of Sydney, and the trend spread through Victoria, South Australia, Western Australia, and even Tasmania in the mid-1800s. Today there are more than 1,000 wineries throughout Australia, and more than 50,000 private vintners. Some 20,000 wine-industry workers live in the country.

    The Adventurers

    By the mid-1800s, the east coast was settled, the Great Dividing Range was crossed, the southeastern deserts were pitted with mine holes, and the continent's fringes were dotted with quickly-growing towns. With no permanent roads and few rivers, the common methods of travel were by horseback and camel. In fact, camel caravans were the key transport method of moving goods and supplies between the growing cities and goldfields. Throughout the 19th century, lines of 40 pack animals carried up to 1,100 lbs/500 kg each of water, food, clothing, and tools across the desert, including to workers who were building the Trans-Australian Railroad between Port Augusta and Perth.

    By the end of the 18th century, once settlers had a foothold on the east coast, the British felt it was time to open up the rest of the country. In 1813, explorers Gregory Blaxland, William Wentworth, and William Lawson headed northwest of Sydney to cut a pass through the Blue Mountains. William Hovell and Hamilton Hume headed in the opposite direction, trailblazing

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