hat is that flavor? Fried onions? Cumin? Oregano? If you’ve been dining in Chicago this past year, chances are you’re tasting, their intriguing pop showing up in a beet salad at John’s Food & Wine, an egg mayo at Anelya, and a freshly baked pita at Sifr. If this is a small trend, then a huge one is , the pasta sauce made with pecorino cheese and black pepper that runs through the veins of Chicago’s chefs, which has jumped the noodle and now appears on bagels (Tilly Bagel Shop) and tavern-style pizza (Bungalow by Middle Brow). — beadier and milder than salmon roe — is also everywhere; just check out Donald Young’s Duck Sel pop-up or Anelya’s memorable tartelette. While we’re on fish eggs, farmed comes as a supplement to whatever you desire — from the pão de queijo at John Manion’s new Brasero to the tortilla española at Asador Bastian. What else? Look for like the halo-halo at Boonie’s, (just wait for summer), (looking at you, Warlord), and — move over, Esmé’s Cheeto, Atelier’s Chicken in a Biskit has arrived.
