CHARDONNAY
97 Patrick Sullivan 2019 Millstream Chardonnay (Gippsland). This wine is from a vineyard that sits at the base of Mount Baw Baw in Victoria’s Gippsland region. Aromas are raw, heady and gorgeous: praline, grapefruit, orange peel, honeysuckle and salt. It slips and slides over the tongue, then crunches with acidity, the finish long and citrusy. Made so solidly, it will last open in bottle for many days—if you can stand not to drink it all in one go. Legend Wines. —C.P.
abv: 13% Price: $80
96 Joshua Cooper 2018 The Old Port Righ Vineyard Chardonnay This is a stellar example of modern Aussie Chardonnay from a small producer in the cool climes of Victoria’s Macedon Ranges. It’s bright with verve and concentration, the pineapple and lemon rind, oyster shell and flinty notes supported by gentle oak influence. The palate is richly textured, with layers of flavor, complexity, length and character, which combine to make an elegant and expertly crafted wine. Vine Street Imports. . —C.P.