CHARDONNAY
96 Pyramid Valley 2019 Lion’s Tooth Chardonnay (North Canterbury). From one of New Zealand’s most revered vineyards, Lion’s Tooth comes with a fair lick of smoke and oyster-shell aromas at first sniff. But a little aeration in glass and the delicate aromas of lemon curd, white peach, vanilla bean and cream shine through. There’s weight to the palate and a lovely slippery texture. The laser-like, citrusy acidity is a reminder of just how cool the climate is up in Pyramid Valley, north of Christchurch. Persistent, layered, elegant and classy, this is one of New Zealand’s most expressive Chardonnays, and it almost guarantees a long and ever-changing life ahead. Drink now through 2032 at least. Pyramid Valley Vineyards LLC. —C.P.
abv: 13% Price: $100
95 Pyramid Valley 2019 Field of Fire Chardonnay (North Canterbury). Steve Smith MW, the new(ish) co-owner of this highly revered North Canterbury estate, hopes to make Pyramid Valley synonymous with world-class Chardonnay. He’s on his way to achieving it. This vintage of Field of Fire is bright and fruity without being simple. Cantaloupe and lemon rind are delicately framed in yeasty, toasty lees and oak characters. There’s a soft saline note, like seashells plucked from the beach, windswept by a cool ocean breeze. It reflects this site’s unique position between the mountains and the sea. In the mouth, lemony acidity is prickly, gliding rather than slicing through the slippery texture. Oak is present but supportive, well tucked and obviously high-end. The lengthy finish makes another sip impossible to resist. Pyramid Valley Vineyards LLC. —C.P.
