SEMILLON
95 Brokenwood 2017 ILR Reserve Semillon (Hunter Valley). An enticing, delicate perfume of beeswax, lemon, ginger, white spice open, with lamp oil and honey notes creeping in with bottle age. There’s lovely poise, brightness and balance on the palate. A chalky texture and pristine, prominent acidity gel with the vibrant citrus fruit. Drinking beautifully now—and expressing this singular Aussie style gracefully—it could also cellar for several more years. Old Bridge Cellars. Cellar Selection. —C.P.
abv: 11% Price: $75
94 Brokenwood 2018 Oakey Creek Semillon (Hunter Valley). This is aging comparatively quickly but it’s showing beautifully. Both vibrant and fruity, and also honeyed and oily, there’s delicate floral, white spice and waxy citrus and peach notes to start. The palate is wonderfully fresh with a long, bright line of lemon acidity that cuts through the viscosity of the mouthfeel. It’s a uniquely Australian style that should hold up for several more years. Old Bridge Cellars. —C.P.
abv: 11% Price: $34
93 The Vinden Headcase 2022 Somerset Vineyard Semillon (Hunter Valley). A pale gold color, with rich aromas of honeyed pear, peach, pineapple rind and subtle florals and white spice. There’s a lovely balance on the palate between the textural weight and bright, lemony acidity, which races across the tongue, lingering long on the finish. Refreshing, food friendly, ageworthy and uniquely Aussie. Hudson Wine Brokers. —C.P.
abv: 11% Price: $32
This cloudy, honey-colored, skin-contact Semillon from a top-notch natty producer, Walsh. —C.P.