SPIRITS

While London Dry gins get most of the attention, so-called New Western gins have grown quickly in recent years.

What exactly is a New Western gin? It’s not an official designation. Portland bar consultant and Aviation gin cofounder Ryan Magarian generally is credited with coining the term to describe any gin that plays up botanicals beyond juniper. While juniper still is required in gin, its trademark pine flavor often takes a backseat to citrus, star anise and other flavorings in New Western-style bottlings. Sometimes it’s barely discernible at all.

While juniper still is required in gin,