National Geographic Traveller Food

LERPWL

LIVERPOOLLERPWL.COM

Most readers over the age of about 25 will have, at some point, woken up in the area around Lerpwl. It was from a TV studio near here that Richard and Judy roused the nation on This Morning throughout the ’90s. And, indeed, this restaurant in Liverpool’s Royal Albert Dock has something of the pair about it, being warm, eccentric and prone to long-windedness.

I visit just before Christmas, in the brief period before everything closes again. Entering through the heavy glass doors, you get a sense of expensive emptiness: a flagstone floor, white walls and ash-and-racing-green leather dining chairs surround a gleaming open kitchen, where a brigade of cooks is hard at work under chef and co-owner Ellis.

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