National Geographic Traveller Food

CHISHURU

LONDON • CHISHURU.COM

Chishuru was born in Brixton Market in 2020. There were 32 covers, a charming chef called Joké Bakare and a menu of fine West African dishes. Business was good. In fact, it heaved, and what was supposed to be a three-month pop-up stayed open for two years. Eventually, though, it closed and Bakare went back to running popups. Now, Chishuru has risen Lazarus-like from the grave. And it’s gone up West.

Bakare crowdfunded more than £50,000 for the new Fitzrovia venue. For £25 you got your name etched into the Founders’ Wall, while £90 got you a cooking class with Bakare. Having visited, that seems a bargain.

The walls of the new restaurant are pink, as are the terrazzo tables.

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