Blue crush
SITTING CROSS-LEGGED BY a fan of surfboards, Youness, a wiry instructor, is testing information retention. “What are these?” he asks, tapping a board’s outer edges. My hand shoots up. “Rails,” I answer. “How do you fall off?” he asks, grinning. “To the side, or the board can flip up,” I answer.
My quick-fire response at the beach ‘classroom’ is not matched by my ocean performance. Yet on day three of a surf-psychotherapy retreat, I can stand up and I have learnt how to spot ‘messy’ waves, and any crazed dreams of emulating Brazilian Pipe Master Gabriel Medina have been
