SWEET AND SUBLIME SQUASH

The swollen sumptuousness of September’s squashes is a consolation prize for the end of summer. As soon as they start to appear in their glorious spectrum of colours and shapes, I’m stocking up. I love to nab some of the really gnarly intertestinglooking ones – initially for decorative purposes and to mark the shift in the season – but they last well, and of course, I’ll end up cooking and eating them eventually. With so many varieties of gourd out there, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed, and while I love the chestnuttiness of red kuri, or the delicacy of gem or spaghetti squash (both great vehicles for shedloads of butter, cheese and black pepper), it’s the dense, sweet richness of crown prince and butternut that I return to again and again. Either of these works beautifully in the recipes I’ve shared here.

If you’re curious, or relatively new to different squash varieties, I recommend experimenting with a few kinds to find what you like. If you’re growing your own, save seeds from