SAKÉ’S NEW GENERATION

The Japanese saké industry is at a dramatic crossroads.

A heightened craft saké movement, augmented by ever-evolving technology, means saké is arguably better than it ever has been. And as exports hit record highs annually, the U.S. market has unprecedented access to Japan’s best bottlings.

Simultaneously, however, younger generations of Japanese drinkers have become detached from the beverage. Instead, they opt for beer, spirits, wine or to simply drink less. As Japan’s traditional saké demographic ages at a rapid pace, domestic sales have plummeted by one-third since the mid 1970s. There are now approximately 1,400 breweries in Japan, a 35% reduction from just 25 years ago.

The future of saké depends on new consumers discovering the category and a new generation of brewers. Bold, entrepreneurial and globally focused, these Japanese producers aim to make saké innovative, regionally distinct and sustainable.

Takahiro Nagayama

Brewery: Nagayama Honke Shuzo

Brand: Taka

Region: Yamaguchi

Notions of terroir and regional identity are rarely clear cut when it comes to saké. It’s something that