For over 2,500 years, the story of saké has evolved, percolating through the bedrock of the 47 prefectures contained in the archipelago of Japan. From snowy Hokkaido in the north to subtropical Okinawa in the south, saké and its culture evolved uniquely, molded by aspects of people and place.
In wine, terms like regionality and terroir are overarching and ubiquitous. There’s little debate whether the taste or style of well-made wines can reflect peculiarities of origin—variables like soil, climate, topography and otherwise. Yet when asked whether there’s a clear expression of regionality and terroir in the taste or style of saké, most saké producers will respond hesitantly. Often, the response is that it’s complicated.
Saké is brewed from just four basic ingredients: Rice and water aided by microorganisms that trigger fermentation—koji, a mold derived from rice—and yeast. A skilled brewer can, and often does, produce exceptional saké using ingredients with no connection to any specific place. Rice is a commodity in Japanese culture with a long history of distribution to near and distant locales.
Still, it’s undeniable that saké is regionally
