Gourmet Traveller

Rocking encore

Jake Smyth’s on the floor, hair ragged, busting out of his singlet. Karl Stefanovic, shirt unbuttoned to a few inches above his navel, is sharing shots of mezcal. When the Underground Brass Band’s version of New Orleans second line, R&B and soul isn’t blaring, it’s Drake, 2 Chainz and Kendrick Lamar backing up A$AP Rocky on F**kin’ Problems. The older patrons seem fine with it. The younger ones are dancing. Caitlyn Rees, GT’s 2018 Sommelier of the Year, is pouring wine. And the lobster is only $100.

We ve said that entering Restaurant Hubert is the closest you’ll get. But walk down the stairs at Mary’s Underground, step through the red-lit doors, and be whisked away to a lo-fi Australiana version, where the pork chop is served with warrigal greens, and Tasmanian urchin has star billing at the raw seafood bar.

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