ST. LOUISANS SITTING down to a steak dinner at 10 p.m.? Hey, this isn't Madrid. Recently, however, at least one local restaurant has regularly been filling reservations at that very hour.
Wright's Tavern—which handsomely filled the former I Fratellini spot on Wydown—has become a bit of a sensation in St. Louis dining circles. A glance at the menu reveals little of the allure. There are crab cakes, wedge
