CALIFORNIA
The challenges faced during the 2017 vintage in northern California are not those anyone alive would like to repeat: record heat, havoc-wreaking thunderstorms and apocalyptic wildfires that destroyed lives and property.
A heat wave over Labor Day was the year’s first defining point, an annoying spread of 100˚F-plus days that become, in hindsight, a blessing before the curse of fires hit the night of October 8.
More than two years later, it’s time to rejoice for the beautiful wines that were produced by hook or by crook.
This forced many to pick earlier than they would have in other years, especially the earlier-ripening varieties like Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Now, more than two years later, it’s time to rejoice for the beautiful wines that were produced by hook or by crook, despite such unprecedented obstacles.
A slew of Chardonnays show how smart decision making and earlier picking dates in 2017 resulted in remarkable wines. Donald Patz’s project, Maritana, offers several nuanced and balanced Russian River Valley Chardonnays that show neither the signs of a hot vintage nor of the stress involved. So do Trombetta, MacRostie and Dutton-Goldfield, the latter of which also made an excellent 2017 Pinot Noir.
Wines made from Carneros fruit also are showing well, despite the appellation having fire right at its door. This cooler climate area benefitted from its proximity to the San Pablo Bay, which tempered the heat of the vintage without sacrificing ripeness. The Cuvaison Méthode Béton Sauvignon Blanc is a perfect example: bright and fresh in stone fruit, with a rounded texture and plenty of acidity.
It will be a while before 2017 Cabernets are out from Napa and Sonoma. In the meantime, embrace these early 2017s and appreciate how a challenging vintage can produce wines with grace and beauty.
Elsewhere in this issue’s Buying Guide, you’ll find reviews from around the world. Be sure to check out thousands more reviews at winemag.com/ratings
CHARDONNAY
94 Anaba 2016 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Floral and earthy, this head-turning white is textured, crisp and bright. Complex flavors of lemon pith, peach and anise combine with ease around a midpalate of graceful weight and harmony, while remaining balanced and fresh in the glass. —V.B.
abv: 13.7% Price: $36
94 Anaba 2016 Dutton Ranch Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). This opens with a rich nose of brioche and honeysuckle while remaining simultaneously crisp and fresh on the palate in lemon, grapefruit and apple flavors. Well integrated and balanced within a light-bodied elegance, it shows quiet, nuanced power. —V.B.
abv: 13% Price: $42
94 Maritana 2017 Dutton Ranch Hansen Hill Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 95.
abv: 14.5% Price: $90
Reduced in matchstick aromas that compel and blow off, this is a well-integrated white from a great site, the fruit and oak combining
