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Showdetails Men IT
Director Lorenzo Galliera Head photographer Daniele Guidetti Editor-in-chief Emilia Minichiello Senior editor Andrea Pederzoli Editorial staff Elisabetta Arcaroli Sakina Bezzaz Paola Bosetti Barbara Chiodi Maggie Guidotti Marta Lopez Garcia Veronica
SHOWDETAILS MEN6 min readFashion
Milano+paris+london+firenze+new York Collezioni Uomo A/i 2020.21
Fino a qualche stagione fa ad ogni sfilata corrispondeva un unico archetipo maschile che, dalla prima uscita all’ultima, passava tutt’al più dal formale al casual alla mise da sera, senza mai discordarsi da un determinato stile. Era di conseguenza mo
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Milano+paris+london+firenze+new York Men Collections A/w 2020.21
Until just a few seasons ago, every fashion show presented its own masculine archetype that took its audience, from the first exit to the last, through formal to casual to evening wear, without ever deviating from a certain style. It was much simpler
SHOWDETAILS MEN2 min readFashion
Hedonism
It’s no surprise that various designers drew inspiration from the troubled atmosphere of Fassbinder’s film ‘Querelle’, adapted from Jean Genet’s novel ‘Querelle de Brest’ about a handsome sailor who arrives at the port of Brest and unleashes dark pas
SHOWDETAILS MEN2 min read
Layers
La tendenza alla stratificazione non viene meno nemmeno con la bella stagione; si useranno semplicemente strati più leggeri, magari in rete o nylon, materiali molto usati in questa tornata di sfilate, che conferiscono ai look un tocco tecnico. Come q
SHOWDETAILS MEN2 min read
Seaside
Volendo metterla sul piano del mero trend, si potrebbe dire che l’uomo del nuovo decennio sceglie il mare; se si affronta il discorso in modo un po’ più impegnato, allora c’è che è un bene che mare e oceani siano riscoperti per essere maggiormente pr
SHOWDETAILS MEN2 min readFashion
Milano+paris+london+firenze+new York Men Collections S/s 2020
Summer 2020, the first of the new decade. Menswear is looking ahead to it with an idea of masculinity that is tender and sensual, romantic and languid, leaving aside formality and aggression in favour of an ease that affects the attitude and the shap
SHOWDETAILS MEN2 min readFashion
Seaside
If you were considering the issue purely in trend terms, you could say the sea is the focus for the new decade. But if your focus is a little more engaged, then it’s a good thing the seas and oceans are under the spotlight so that they can be better
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Layers
Layering is not just for winter. Summer simply uses lighter layers, perhaps in mesh or nylon, which were seen in many of the latest shows, adding a technical touch to the looks. Take Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch’s latest collection for Les Hommes, d
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Milano+paris+london+firenze+new York Collezioni Uomo P/e 2020
Estate 2020, la prima bella stagione del nuovo decennio; l’uomo vi si affaccia portando con sé un’idea di mascolinità tenera e insieme sensuale, romantica e languida, che lascia da parte formalismi e aggressività per una rilassatezza che coinvolge, o
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Edonismo
Non è un caso che diversi designer abbiano preso come ispirazione le atmosfere torbide della pellicola di Fassbinder ‘Querelle de Brest’, tratta dal romanzo omonimo di Jean Genet: Querelle, aitante marinaio, che sbarca nel porto di Brest scatenando f
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Milano+paris+london+firenze+new York Men Collections A/w 2019.20
The term‘hemline index’ was coined by American economist George Taylor in 1926 to describe the way that skirt hemlines moved up and down according to economic trends, so shorter in boom time and longer during a downturn. It’s a theory that could be a
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Yohji Yamamoto
PARIS January 17, 2019 Yohji Yamamoto’s collections are and always will be mirrors of personal aspects of his life, passions and fears. He rarely draws inspiration from a specific character or time period and his latest offering is no different, refl
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Y/project
FIRENZE January 9, 2019 The new collection from Belgian designer Glenn Martens was staged in the beautiful cloister of Santa Maria Novella in Florence, in cavernous darkness illuminated only by the torches handed to the audience and the flashes from
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Vetements
PARIS January 17, 2019 The dark web is a murky place where the most horrible things can be bought, with Bitcoin. Demna Gvasalia knows about it and is justifiably scared by it. What’s even scarier is that anyone is free to access it and conceal their
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Versace
MILANO January 12, 2019 The first Versace men’s show since the brand was acquired by Michael Kors Holdings stayed resoundingly close to the brand’s tradition. If anything, the clothes on the runway further underlined the bondage iconography that Gian
SHOWDETAILS MEN1 min readPopular Culture & Media Studies
Valentino
PARIS January 16, 2019 What happens when two creative geniuses meet? The new Valentino collection could provide an answer. Pier Paolo Piccioli met Jun Takahashi of Undercover last year in Tokyo at an exhibition on the long-standing Italian brand and
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Thom Browne
PARIS January 19, 2019 With his inimitable eccentric touch, Thom Browne showed a reflection on tailoring with a womenswear twist, i.e. the feminine potential of the structure of tailored men’s clothing. Divided into three parts, the show began with e
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Rick Owens
PARIS January 17, 2019 Moving away from clothes for climate refugees and the associated constructions and wrappings, Rick Owens dives headlong into glam rock driven by his lifelong interest in Larry LeGaspi, the subversive American designer who desig
SHOWDETAILS MEN1 min readPopular Culture & Media Studies
Raf Simons
PARIS June 20, 2018 “Too many hoodies with prints!” says Raf Simons, declaring war on streetwear. His show, staged at a warehouse in a Parisian suburb, expressed all the desire of a return not just of the understatement of tailoring but also its haut
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Raeburn
LONDON January 6, 2019 Christopher Raeburn can be proud of his first 10 years in business, given that when he started out in 2009 hardly any designers were thinking about sustainability. The designer was a pioneer of upcycling, a technique that domin
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Prada
MILANO January 13, 2019 The weak, the rejected, those who will never have a career - in short, the more delicate and naked aspects of humanity - were put on show by Prada alongside references to trashy horror movies like‘Frankenstein’ and‘The Rocky H
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Philipp Plein
MILANO January 11, 2019 Philipp Plein remembers his first show in Milan in 2009. A decade after the event, which the designer recalls with relish despite the hard times back then, Plein showed at Palazzo Clerici which, with its stucco and frescos, co
SHOWDETAILS MEN1 min readFashion
Paul Smith
PARIS January 20, 2019 The English countryside met the city in Paul Smith’s latest show, an eye-catching blend bordering on punk. ‘Old’ riding jackets with a Victorian appeal were paired with turtlenecks, shirts and skinny trousers crisscrossed by zi
SHOWDETAILS MEN1 min readFashion
Pal Zileri
MILANO January 14, 2019 “An era of extreme feelings” translated into clothes. On this third collection for Pal Zileri, Rocco Iannone drew on Aesop’s Fables to express today’s polarized opinions, creating a slightly surreal atmosphere in which referen
SHOWDETAILS MEN2 min readFashion
Off-white
PARIS January 16, 2019 In calling this Off-White show‘Public Television’, Virgil Abloh was referring to the barrage of adverts and images bombarding us every day and shaping our vision of the world. But Abloh kept it very subliminal, preferring to ch
SHOWDETAILS MEN1 min readFashion
Neil Barrett
MILANO January 12, 2019 Neil Barrett celebrated his 20th anniversary with an unusual theme for him, punk, which, as the designer recalled, was a mixture of school uniforms, biker and military. All of that featured in his latest collection, with added
SHOWDETAILS MEN2 min readFashion
N°21
MILANO January 14, 2019 ‘Querelle’ was Fassbinder’s last film before his untimely death in 1982. Alessandro Dell’Acqua, a film-lover and fan of the German director’s, drew inspiration from the controversial film, which still has something to say abou
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