MILANO+PARIS+LONDON+FIRENZE+NEW YORK MEN COLLECTIONS A/W 2019.20

he term‘hemline index’ was coined by American economist George Taylor in 1926 to describe the way that skirt hemlines moved up and down according to economic trends, so shorter in boom time and longer during a downturn. It’s a theory that could be applied to various periods of history, such is everything that helps you lose yourself and hide your identity: a hooded sweatshirt, a big collar, giant shoulders, extra-long sleeves, chunky shoes that look two sizes big. But if everything is longer and wider, what happens to elegant, ‘made-to-measure’ men’s clothes? It simply adapts. With more relaxed shapes, enormous jackets, loose trousers, long coats, which can then be shorter or tighter if required. overturns proportions and incorporates technical details, showcasing an instinct for both protection and revolt. The trend includes multi-pocketed vests and harnesses, as though joining a business meeting or a soirée was a little like going into the trenches. Finally, a spontaneous counter-revolution brings rebellion to the choice of shapes, which are a little closer-fitting, firmer and sharper. Along with transparencies, mesh, holes and metallic sheen.