MILANO+PARIS+LONDON+FIRENZE MEN COLLECTIONS SPRING/SUMMER 2017
Charming, aristocratic, anti-conformist and, above all, an indefatigable wanderer. Nicolas De Staël, a French painter of Russian origin who lived in the first half of the 20th century. His character has become a reference point for many designers: a charismatic, decadent dandy who, for his short life, travelled in search of the light required to produce his canvases but who concealed within him a tormented soul immersed in the deepest darkness. The men seen on the latest runways don’t have the dramatic allure of De Staël but do possess the same spirit of adventure, the same thirst for discovery and knowledge that takes them, back-pack on their back, towards new destinations or familiar sights with an irresistible appeal. have a refined, precious wardrobe made up of premium leather outerwear, fluid silk suits and are embedded in street culture and bear slogans tattooed on their bodies or clothes. Their way of dressing is unmistakable – a style code that speaks their language, i.e. a big dose of sportswear, mainly oversize but not always, combat and military touches – because these are warriors after all. A practical wardrobe that is packed with accessories and that shares much with workwear: neither the wanderers nor the urban gangs can be without it. is the new frontier in menswear, which takes in a formal suit but reworks it with a utilitarian slant: ropes, cords, harnesses, big pockets – nothing is missing. And it is also protective as well as functional. Because it is a dangerous world out there.
