WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Wild Iris Sport Climbing with Leif Gasch | The Power Company Climbing Podcast Podcast

TAPED TIPS | How To Climb Taller AND Smaller: Short climbers are good at getting scrunchy, and tall climbers are good at climbing extended, right? Ummm, no. Not always.Actually, not even most of the time. Believing that, particularly if you’re one of those short or tall climbers, is a trap. I’m ... by The Power Company Climbing Podcast

14 min listen

REWIND | Can We Accurately Measure the Movement Skills of Sport Climbers?: Today we rewind to an episode of Breaking Beta where Kris and Paul dig into a paper that presents and then tests a method for measuring movement skills in climbing: Climbing performance analysis: A novel tool for the assessment of rock climber's move... by The Power Company Climbing Podcast

46 min listen

EVERY BODY CLIMBS | Ben Mayforth on Discipline, Paraclimbing World Championships, and Letting Go: Ben Mayforth is a decorated climber well known for dialing in his training regimen. He's a Paraclimbing World Cup multi-medalist. Since 2019, he hasn't missed a silver medal at the Paraclimbing World Championships. Ben has a reputation of being extre... by The Power Company Climbing Podcast

33 min listen

Nate Drolet | A Consultation with The Struggle Climbing Show: Today's episode comes from The Struggle Climbing Show and features our very own coach Nate Drolet in consultation with the show's host Ryan Devlin, who has been working hard towards a goal to climb 13a. They'll talk movement analysis, technique impr... by The Power Company Climbing Podcast

75 min listen

EXPERT | Udo Neumann on Movement, Learning, and How to Coach Climbing: Udo Neumann is a climber, performance coach, and motor-learning explorer. He’s the author of several books, including the cult classic Performance Rock Climbing. He was the German National Team coach from 2009 to 2017, working with several European ... by The Power Company Climbing Podcast

105 min listen

TAPED TIPS | The Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves: Where's the first place your mind goes when you don’t stick a move? If you’re like most climbers, it’s probably your finger strength, or tension, or even your effort, and you’re already considering what hangboard protocol to use or some front lever w... by The Power Company Climbing Podcast

16 min listen

(BONUS) EXPERT | Will Anglin on Climbing All The Things, the Intersection of Strength and Movement, and the Ultimate Tool: Will Anglin is one of the founders of Tension Climbing, a company that not only makes training tools, but also is committed to innovation in a way that leads climbers toward mastery over success. In this episode we discuss movement skills, some ways ... by The Power Company Climbing Podcast

38 min listen

BUILDER | Lauren Abernathy on Building Better Movement Skills: Lauren Abernathy works hard to be a better climber. In fact, it’s part of her job as owner of Good Spray Climbing to help other people become better climbers, and she walks the walk. For several years she’s worked with our coach Blake Cash, and has r... by The Power Company Climbing Podcast

65 min listen

TAPED TIPS | The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers are Missing: For most of us, climbing looks like this: Pull on, try the move, fall off. Stare at your hands and try to understand why you fell. Pull on, try the move, fall off. Stare at your hands and come up with a new reason why you fell. Pull on again, try the... by The Power Company Climbing Podcast

10 min listen

EXPERT | Taylor Reed on Climbing Research and Evidence-Informed Movement Coaching: Taylor Reed is a climber and coach who has worked with high-level athletes – both competitive and outdoor climbers – for many years. He’s the vice president of the International Rock Climbing Research Association and also runs The Beta Angel Project,... by The Power Company Climbing Podcast

96 min listen

BOARD MEETINGS | How Much Climbing Skill Is Guaranteed With Experience?: A common refrain in climbing is that the more you climb, the better you get. But all of us know some old crusty who has been climbing for 45 years and is stuck at mid 5.10. And they have all of the excuses as to why. But they’re wrong. In this episod... by The Power Company Climbing Podcast

66 min listen

TAPED TIPS | Go Ahead, Grab That Foothold and Be Adaptable: Go ahead, grab that foothold. I mean, it’s only a foothold until someone uses it as a handhold. Then it’s just a hold. So use it. And if you don’t want to because you’d rather challenge yourself to do it without using that really obvious hold right t... by The Power Company Climbing Podcast

12 min listen

REWIND | BOARD MEETINGS | The Art of Learning Climbing: Today we REWIND back to one of our favorite Board Meetings of all time. We chose this episode because we are spending the next couple months digging deep into movement and learning, and exploring if there might be a better way to consider movement th... by The Power Company Climbing Podcast

76 min listen

EXPERT | Rob Gray on How We Learn to Move and the Skill Acquisition for Climbers (Part 2): Rob Gray is an Associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He’s also the author of two great books, How We Learn to Move and Learning to Opti... by The Power Company Climbing Podcast

45 min listen

EXPERT | Rob Gray on The Gap Between Sports Science Researchers and Coaches (Part 1): Rob Gray is an associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He’s been studying movement and publishing research on it for 25 years. In this Pa... by The Power Company Climbing Podcast

47 min listen

FOCUS | Movement Skills for Climbers: Introducing: Something new. Something different. Something FOCUSED. Rather than doing what most podcasts do and jumping from subject to subject with each new episode, we’re going to be spending the next couple of months focused on discussing one topi... by The Power Company Climbing Podcast

6 min listen

BOARD MEETINGS | Indoor Climbing Lessons You Should Take Outdoors (Bonus Episode): Indoor and outdoor climbing have different constraints, and as such, lead you into different solutions for how to interact with that environment. But there are lessons from the climbing gyms that should absolutely be applied to outdoors in order to g... by The Power Company Climbing Podcast

38 min listen

BOARD MEETINGS | Outdoor Climbing Lessons You Should Take Indoors: Many people view indoor climbing as less serious than climbing outside, but if we're looking to improve, that may be a mistake. There are aspects of climbing outside that lead us into learning specific things that we don't necessarily find as easily ... by The Power Company Climbing Podcast

50 min listen

BOARD MEETINGS | Improved Learning from Podcasts, Books, and Videos: With more and more information out there, it would seem that we can learn faster and better. But that isn't always the case. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss why learning is more challenging in our current environment, ways we can better struct... by The Power Company Climbing Podcast

99 min listen

Hubble vs. Action Directe | The World’s First 14d (9a), Featuring Alex Megos and Buster Martin: Two of the legendary routes from the 90s are now at odds with each other (sort of). One of them was likely the first 9a in the world, but which was it? Hubble or Action Directe? In this bonus episode from Written In Stone, we examine the circumstance... by The Power Company Climbing Podcast

54 min listen

REWIND | Hazel Findlay on Flow, Attention, and Letting the Body Climb: Four years ago this month in 2019, Yosemite’s Magic Line, a 5.14 crack originally put up by Ron Kauk and not repeated until more than 20 years later by his son, Lonnie, saw its third ascent. Pushing her limits both physically and mentally, the formid... by The Power Company Climbing Podcast

65 min listen

Jereme Ransick from the RRGCC | If We Own It, They Can’t Close It: The Red River Gorge Climber’s Coalition was one oof the first climber owned organizations to OWN their local climbing. Now they have the opportunity to purchase a huge tract of land with miles and miles of cliffline. Some existing climbing, and a lot... by The Power Company Climbing Podcast

51 min listen

BOARD MEETINGS | Where We Go Wrong When We Get Training Right: You nailed the training and showed up stronger. Still, things went wrong. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becom... by The Power Company Climbing Podcast

41 min listen

Lynn Hill, Katie Brown, and the Importance of Climbing History: The year is 1991.No woman has ever climbed 5.14.One French superstar says that no woman ever will. But Lynn Hill didn’t listen... And years later, Katie Brown wouldn't either. This is a sample of Episode 1 of Written In Stone: Climbing's Most Impor... by The Power Company Climbing Podcast

7 min listen

TAPED TIPS | Stop Applying Training Principles to Climbing Performance: Training principles are important, but when they creep into performance, your climbing will suffer. Nearly every time. Taped Tips is presented by Power Company Climbing and Plug Tone Audio. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a P... by The Power Company Climbing Podcast

12 min listen

INTRODUCING | Written in Stone: Climbing’s Most Important Ascents: Written in Stone tells the (mostly) true stories of the most groundbreaking ascents in rock climbing history. Hosted by Kris Hampton, you’ll hear the narrated, sound-designed stories about what led to new levels in climbing, alternated with conversat... by The Power Company Climbing Podcast

8 min listen

REWIND | Miguel and Dario Ventura on Life Imitating Art: If you’re a climber and you haven’t been to Miguel’s Pizza, you probably want to go, or you’ve at least seen a dozen people wearing their t-shirts. Forty years ago, Miguel Ventura moved from Connecticut to Slade, Kentucky and started what was then kn... by The Power Company Climbing Podcast

45 min listen

What When How to Train | Blue Mountains Sport Climbing with Lee Cujes: Looking to climb on gorgeous streaky sandstone cliffs full of high-angled crimps? Look no further than the Blue Mountains, sport climbing mecca of the land down under, boasting thousands of routes. Legendary Australian climber Lee Cujes spent more th... by The Power Company Climbing Podcast

123 min listen

Lowpointing: The Most Overlooked Climbing Tactic: You know what highpointing is, and definitely redpointing, but what about lowpointing? And for those of you who know what we’re talking about, do you actually do it? Chances are, you’re not using this tactic to its full potential, which means you’re ... by The Power Company Climbing Podcast

53 min listen

REWIND | Ravioli Biceps on Moonboarding, Process, and Identity: Five years ago this week, Ravioli Biceps walked into the gym, did his usual detailed warmup, and then set his camera up pointed at the Moonboard. It had only been a year since he'd started climbing on it, and he'd obsessively worked his way through t... by The Power Company Climbing Podcast

71 min listen

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WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Wild Iris Sport Climbing with Leif Gasch

WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Wild Iris Sport Climbing with Leif Gasch

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