40 min listen
TAPED TIPS | I Said What I S.A.I.D.
TAPED TIPS | I Said What I S.A.I.D.
ratings:
Length:
6 minutes
Released:
Oct 18, 2022
Format:
Podcast episode
Description
You’ve heard of the SAID principle, right? S-A-I-D: Specific Adaptations to Imposed Demands. You’ve heard of it. And you thought that it meant simply that to get better at climbing, you have to climb on boulders that look just like the climbs you do outside, right?
If that was you, you were in the majority.
But you were wrong.
Is climbing pulling straight down on edges? Not always.
Is it compressing on slopers? Not always.
Is it jumping from grip to grip? Sometimes.
Is it moving slow and precise. Pretty often, actually.
Is it full-crimping? Half-crimping? Open hand? 3 Finger Drag? Middle 2? Back 3? Mono? Crosley? Pinch? Back-stepping, drop-kneeing, twisted, square, toe-hooking, heel-hooking, edging, smearing, blah blah blah…
Well, It’s all of these things. And thousands more things. It’s too much. So today, we’re going to learn a little more about what specificity actually means.
Taped Tips is presented by Power Company Climbing and Plug Tone Audio.
In our Coaching for Mastery course, we go DEEP into how coaches and climbers can create an effective practice. That’s literally what the entire course is about. The research, the theories, my experience, and how you can practically apply it.
If that was you, you were in the majority.
But you were wrong.
Is climbing pulling straight down on edges? Not always.
Is it compressing on slopers? Not always.
Is it jumping from grip to grip? Sometimes.
Is it moving slow and precise. Pretty often, actually.
Is it full-crimping? Half-crimping? Open hand? 3 Finger Drag? Middle 2? Back 3? Mono? Crosley? Pinch? Back-stepping, drop-kneeing, twisted, square, toe-hooking, heel-hooking, edging, smearing, blah blah blah…
Well, It’s all of these things. And thousands more things. It’s too much. So today, we’re going to learn a little more about what specificity actually means.
Taped Tips is presented by Power Company Climbing and Plug Tone Audio.
In our Coaching for Mastery course, we go DEEP into how coaches and climbers can create an effective practice. That’s literally what the entire course is about. The research, the theories, my experience, and how you can practically apply it.
Released:
Oct 18, 2022
Format:
Podcast episode
Titles in the series (100)
Episode 5: Overhauling Your Style with Alli Rainey: In this episode I sit down with Alli Rainey, a Tensleep, Wyoming based climbing coach and trainer, writer, and yoga instructor. Alli climbed up to 5.14 in her signature, vertical, technical style, and then decided to learn how to climb steeper, more gym... by The Power Company Climbing Podcast