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World Class Finger Strength: Interview with Allison Vest

World Class Finger Strength: Interview with Allison Vest

FromLattice Training Podcast


World Class Finger Strength: Interview with Allison Vest

FromLattice Training Podcast

ratings:
Length:
67 minutes
Released:
Aug 15, 2022
Format:
Podcast episode

Description

Today we have another returning guest having previously chatted on the show, with her partner in crime Kyra Condie. Who is both accomplished in indoor competitions as well as in outdoor climbing, having climbed up to V14! Please welcome back to the show .... Allison Vest!Allison first came to the attention of us at Lattice through a piece of data funnily enough. Quite some time ago, Tom Randall was compiling a list of the greatest finger strength levels ever measured in female athletes and Allison was right at the top.Naturally, he wanted to dig into the information a bit further as the numbers were pretty outrageous! Over the last few years, Allison has risen to the position of one of the most accomplished outdoor boulderers in the world having climbed up to V14, which is also on top of a track record of multiple competition podiums for indoor competition climbing. On top of this, she’s someone who has a prolific social media presence, seamlessly connecting between content that’s both light-hearted and serious, but always with such an accessible style. We wanted to get her back on the podcast to talk about all things performance, training and bouldering focused. Tune in to hear all about:Her transition from coached to self-coached climbingHow she manages training vs performingHer thoughts on restingHow she trains on a fingerboardWhat her ‘personal bests’ or scores on a fingerboard areTesting with Camp4 Human PerformanceWorking ‘strengths’ vs working ‘weaknesses’ in climbingHer personal warning signs for when to not strength trainHow to access the ‘top end’ in boulderingHow she deals with the ‘a Muerte’ attitude towards training and performanceThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
Released:
Aug 15, 2022
Format:
Podcast episode

Titles in the series (100)

Hosted by Lattice Training - the world's leading climbing coaching and training company - this podcast features discussions and interviews with many of the planet's best climbers and coaches. We delve into the details of what works and what doesn't when it comes to training, performance and recovery. Whether you're just starting out climbing, or a professional athlete, there is an incredible depth of knowledge throughout the episodes! For further support and knowledge please check out Lattice 365, our exclusive membership group.