Botswana Guide 2022/23

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Your journey starts here...

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Letter From The Editors
The search for a place where you can feel like yourself again – that’s one of the main reasons why the wilderness of Botswana is so popular among our readers. It’s easy to become despondent when you watch the news and see the frenetic pace of the wor
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Go! Botswana Guide
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF (WEG & GO): PIERRE STEYN EDITORS GO BOTSWANA 2022/23: TOAST COETZER, MARTINETTE LOUW COPY EDITOR: MARIJCKEDODDS CONTRIBUTING EDITOR: JON MINSTER ART DIRECTOR: LYNNE FRASER MAPS: FRANÇOIS HAASBROEK CEO MEDIA24: ISHMET DAVIDSON GENERAL
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Good Khama
You know that scene at the beginning of The Lion King, when the sun is rising, the music swells, and all the animals start making their way to the waterhole to hear Mufasa’s big announcement? Well, every year on my birthday, I try to re-enact that sc
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At The Border
After the disruptive effect that Covid had on international travel, things have now (almost) returned to normal. Crossing the border is easy if you’re well prepared. Always keep an eye on the news since regulations can change overnight. If you’re vac
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Thunderbolts And Lions
We had a small campfire going with camel thorn wood. In the dusk, we watched thunderclouds gathering in the west, as our little blue and orange flames flickered defiantly. It was February: peak rainy season. A slight breeze blew through our camp at R
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The Last Ferry To Seronga
My car drives up the ramp with a clank and a young attendant directs me to a parking spot. Minutes later, the ferry’s diesel engines roar with extra oomph and we pull away from the bank. Soon we’re taking a diagonal course across the Okavango River.
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Birds Of The Chobe
GEAR: Canon 1DX Mark III; Canon EF 200 – 400 mm lens with a 1.4x extender SETTINGS: Shutter speed 1/40 second; aperture f18; ISO 400 SABINE’S TIP: To blur or freeze? These are the two options you have when photographing a moving animal. A fast shutte
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Dumela, Central Kalahari
It’s March when Phil van Wyk, tour leader at Bhejane 4x4 Adventures, and I arrive at Palm Afrique Lodge south of Ghanzi. This is where we’ll meet up with the rest of our tour group before we set off on an eight day camping trip to the Central Kalahar
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Make The Most Of Maun
I first visited Maun in 1988: My husband Matthew and I hitchhiked from Joburg to the Okavango with the optimistic naivety of youth. A lift deposited us on the roadside some way beyond Francistown, where we stood, thumbs out and increasingly dejected
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Meet The Delta Fixer
It’s a Sunday night in Maun. I’ve spent the weekend with Louis Milne and we’re in his Land Cruiser, driving to his house outside town. Before we reach the bridge over the Thamalakane River, the Cruiser starts to stutter. Louis pulls over immediately
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Botswana By Bike!
The trip began as a dangerous dream: one of those lingering ideas that won’t let you go. How about a solo bike-packing journey from Cape Town to Kilimanjaro? I’ve always wanted to explore Africa and as an avid cyclist, a bicycle trip was the obvious
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In Search Of Camping Nirvana
Popa Falls rumbled in the background as I watched a perfect sunset over the Kavango River. My partner Steph Perrin and I sipped sauvignon blanc as the sky turned orange. Hippos grunted and a fisherman in a mokoro glided through the scene. We were in
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Still Smokin’!
Standing on the Zimbabwean side of Batoka Gorge, the power of the water tumbling down the cliffs is astonishing. The spray drenches us and rainbows light up the mist. No matter how many times you’ve seen it, Victoria Falls always takes your breath aw
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How To Use This Guide
RATES. The rates listed here are subject to change and vary depending on the season. In Botswana, winter is considered peak season. Summer is low season and some places drop their rates. Always contact an establishment in advance and enquire about th
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Places To Stay
Middelputs and McCarthy’s Rest are small border posts north-west of Kuruman. If you plan to enter Botswana through the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, you have to use the Two Rivers border post at Twee Rivieren. Next to the R380, about 17 km from McCar
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Southern Botswana
This park, which includes the popular Mabuasehube section, is a 4x4 destination for travellers who like their wilderness undiluted. You must be completely self-sufficient. Like other national parks in Botswana, the campsites on the Botswana side of t
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Central Botswana
This small town, previously known as Kalkfontein, is just off the A2 in the Ghanzi district. This camp on the outskirts of Tshootsha is also known as Riana’s Campsite. It’s right next to the A2. Camping costs P150 (R201) per person. Twin-sleeper safa
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Northern Botswana
The tar road that connects all these places needs a little TLC, but you can drive it in a 4x2. The Panhandle is the best place to get a taste of the Okavango at budget rates, although there are also more luxurious options. This luxury tented lodge ju
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Namibia
The major Namibian towns in this area – with fuel, shops and ATMs – are Divundu and Rundu. On the B10, about 35 km west of Rundu. The campsites are on grass and each stand has a light, power point, tap and braai. Camping R250 per person. Twin-sleeper
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Greater Kalahari & Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
Our tour through the Kalahari starts at Twee Rivieren rest camp in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. Go for a late afternoon game drive or take advantage of the swimming pool to cool off after a long drive. In the evening, you can look forward to a d
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Game-rich northern Botswana!
Our northern Botswana tour begins at Khama Rhino Sanctuary in central Botswana, where we spend our first night. The next day, we go on an early morning game drive in the reserve. Birders are in for a treat – Khama is home to more than 230 species. Th
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LETTER FROM The Tuli
Just before sunset, a handful of stiff-legged people clambered to the top of a koppie overlooking the confluence of the Limpopo and Shashe rivers. All those people have gone now, their thirst for a scrap of cellphone signal sated. They’ve sent their
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Botswana At Its Best
Kubu Island (Lekhubu) is a rocky outcrop on the western edge of Sua Pan, which is part of the greater Makgadikgadi Pans complex. During new moon, the Milky Way provides a spectacular backdrop to the baobab trees. This photo reminds me of the Johnny C

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