The Rough Guide to Peru: Travel Guide eBook

By Rough Guides

This Peru guidebook is perfect for independent travellers planning a longer trip. It features all of the must-see sights and a wide range of off-the-beaten-track places. It also provides detailed practical information on preparing for a trip and what to do on the ground. 

This Peru guidebook covers: Lima; Trujillo; Cusco; the Sacred Valley; the Peruvian Amazon; Tarma and the Central Sierra; Arequipa and Lake Titicaca; Nazca; Huarez and the cordilleras; the south and Ancash coasts.

Inside this Peru travel book, you’ll find: 

• A wide range of sights – Rough Guides experts have hand-picked places for travellers with different needs and desires: off-the-beaten-track adventures, family activities or chilled-out breaks
• Itinerary examples – created for different time frames or types of trip
• Practical information – how to get to Peru, all about public transport, food and drink, shopping, travelling with children, sports and outdoor activities, tips for travellers with disabilities and more
• Author picks and things not to miss in Peru – Hiking to Machu Picchu, Lares Valley, Marcahuasi, Lagunas de Llanganuco, Kuélap, Cañón del Colca, Cusco, Cordillera Blanca, Arequipa, Surfing in Máncora 
• Insider recommendations – tips on how to beat the crowds, save time and money, and find the best local spots
• When to go to Peru – high season, low season, climate information and festivals 
• Where to go – a clear introduction to Peru with key places and a handy overview 
• Extensive coverage of regions, places and experiences – regional highlights, sights and places for different types of travellers, with experiences matching different needs
• Places to eat, drink and stay – hand-picked restaurants, cafes, bars and hotels
• Practical info at each site – hours of operation, websites, transit tips, charges
• Colour-coded mapping – with keys and legends listing sites categorised as highlights, eating, accommodation, shopping, drinking and nightlife
• Background information for connoisseurs – history, culture, art, architecture, film, books, religion, diversity
• Essential Spanish, Quechua dictionary and glossary of local terms 
• Fully updated post-COVID-19
  

The guide provides a comprehensive and rich selection of places to see and things to do in Peru, as well as great planning tools. It’s the perfect companion, both ahead of your trip and on the ground.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Insight Guides
• Release date: Jun 1, 2024
• ISBN: 9781835290989

Rough Guides

Rough Guides are written by expert authors who are passionate about both writing and travel. They have detailed knowledge of the areas they write about--having either traveled extensively or lived there--and their expertise shines through on every page. It's priceless information, delivered with wit and insight, providing the down-to-earth, honest read that is the hallmark of Rough Guides.

Book preview

cover.jpg

Shutterstock

Shutterstock

Contents

INTRODUCTION

Where to go

When to go

Author picks

Things not to miss

Itineraries

Sustainable travel

BASICS

Getting there

Getting around

Accommodation

Food and drink

The media

Festivals and public holidays

Outdoor activities and sports

Travel essentials

THE GUIDE

1Lima and around

2Nazca and the south coast

3Arequipa and Lago Titicaca

4Cusco and around

5The Central Sierra

6Huaraz, the cordilleras and the Ancash coast

7Trujillo and the north

8The Amazon Basin

CONTEXTS

History

Inca culture

Peruvian music

Natural Peru

Books

Language

SMALL PRINT

Introduction to

Peru

Travellers, like pilgrims, make the trek through the endlessly extraordinary Andes to visit Machu Picchu, the renowned Inca citadel that for many is Peru's main attraction. Jewel that it is, the timeless site comprises only a fraction of the treasures that lie within one of South America's most geographically diverse countries.

Peru is home to a staggering array of landscapes – puzzling geoglyphs in the arid plains of Nazca, two of the world’s deepest canyons outside the colonial city of Arequipa, the lush Amazon rainforest in the east and excellent surf in the northwest – offering boundless potential for adventure. Peru’s Andean cultures are some of the most fascinating in the Americas, with tucked-away highland towns that explode into colour on market day, and vibrant local fiestas that have been celebrated with unbridled enthusiasm for centuries – a heady mix of ancient beliefs with colonial Catholic customs.

Peru’s immense wealth of sights and experiences has its roots in one of the world’s richest heritages, topped by the Inca Empire and its fabulous archeological gems, not to mention the monumental adobe temples and pre-Inca ruins along the desert coast. While Machu Picchu is undoubtedly one of the world’s most important archeological sites, Peru is home to a host of other riches – and important new discoveries are constantly being unearthed.

Boasting access to the highest tropical mountain range in the world as well as one of the best-preserved areas of virgin Amazon rainforest, Peru’s wildlife is as diverse as you’d expect, and sights such as jaguars slinking through the jungle, caimans sunning themselves on riverbanks and dazzling macaws gathering at Amazon clay-licks are all within the visitor’s grasp. For those looking for adrenaline-fuelled fun, a host of outdoor activities are on offer, from trekking ancient trails and whitewater rafting to paragliding, bungee-jumping and ziplining above the forest canopy.

Equally, a trip to Peru could focus on more gastronomical pursuits. Widely touted as one of the world’s culinary hotspots, the country – and Lima in particular – offers a cornucopia of exotic tastes to appeal to curious palates, as well as a laidback, vibrant dining scene, ranging from backstreet cevicherías to gourmet restaurants. And in the big cities, you can expect buzzing nightlife too.

Despite it all, simple, unaffected pleasures remain in place. The country’s prevailing attitude is that there is always enough time for a chat, a ceviche or another drink. Peru is accepting of its visitors – it’s a place where the resourceful and open-minded traveller can break through barriers of class, race and language far more easily than most of its inhabitants can. Even the Amazon jungle region – covering nearly two-thirds of the country’s landmass, but home to a mere fraction of its population – is accessible for the most part, with countless tour operators or community associations on hand to organize trips to even the farthest-flung corners. Now all you have to do is figure out where to start.

Where to go

You’re most likely to arrive in the buzzing and at least fitfully elegant capital, Lima; a modern city, it manages effortlessly to blend traditional Peruvian heritage with twenty-first-century glitz. Cusco is perhaps the most obvious place to head from here. A beautiful and bustling colonial city, it was once the ancient heart of the Inca Empire, and is surrounded by some of the most spectacular mountain landscapes and palatial ruins in Peru, and by magnificent hiking country. The world-famous Inca Trail, which culminates at the lofty, mist-shrouded Inca citadel of Machu Picchu, is just one of several equally scenic and challenging treks in this region of Peru alone.

iStock

MIRAFLORES, LIMA

Fact file

Potatoes are native to what is today southern Peru – they were domesticated here around 7000 to 10,000 years ago. Today there are over 3000 varieties of potato grown in the country.

Peru is home to the largest segment of the Amazon rainforest after Brazil, with over 60 percent of Peruvian territory covered in dense forest.

Guinea pigs (cuy) are widely consumed in Peru; it is said approximately 65 million guinea pigs are eaten every year.

The Cañón de Cotahuasi is the world’s deepest canyon, with a depth of over 3500m – twice that of the Grand Canyon.

Peru’s population is an estimated 32 million, almost a third of whom live in Lima, the country's capital and South America's second largest city.

The Cerro Blanco sand dune is the highest in the world at 2070m above sea level and 1176m from base to summit.

Along the coast, there are more fascinating archeological sites as well as glorious beaches and sparky towns. South of Lima are the bizarre Nazca Lines, which have mystified since their discovery some seventy years ago, as well as the beguiling desert landscapes of the Reserva Nacional Paracas and the wildlife-rich haven of the neighbouring Islas Ballestas. If that all sounds too active, you could always duck away to spend a day knocking back pisco at the many Ica Valley bodegas.

North of Lima lies the great adobe city of Chan Chan and the Valle de las Pyrámides. The surfing hangouts of Puerto Chicama and trendy Máncora beach are big draws along this stretch, but almost all of the coastal towns come replete with superb beaches, plentiful nightlife and great food.

For high mountains and long-distance treks, head for the stunning glacial lakes, snowy peaks and little-known ruins of the sierra north of Lima, particularly the ice-capped mountains and their valleys around Huaraz, but also the more gentle hills, attractive villages and ancient sites in the regions of Cajamarca and Chachapoyas. The central sierra is crammed with tradition and glorious colonial architecture, at its peak in Ayacucho and Huancayo; the region around Tarma is also worth exploring, offering a variety of landscapes, from jungles and caves to waterfalls and stupendous terraced valleys.

If it’s wildlife you’re interested in, there’s plenty to see almost everywhere, but the jungle provides startling opportunities for close and exotic encounters. From the comfort of tourist lodges in Iquitos to river excursions around Puerto Maldonado within the Reserva Nacional Tambopata, the fauna and flora of the world’s largest tropical forest can be experienced first-hand here more easily than in any other Amazon-rim country. Not far from Iquitos, the Reserva Nacional Pacaya-Samiria is a remote and extremely beautiful, though less-visited region; while close to Cusco, just below the cloud forest, the Reserva Biósfera del Manu is another wildlife hotspot.

Tim Draper/Rough Guide

FIESTA DE LA VIRGEN DEL CARMEN, PAUCARTAMBO

< Back to Intro

When to go

Picking the best time to visit Peru’s various regions is complicated by the country’s physical characteristics; temperatures can vary widely across the country. Summer (verano) along the desert coast more or less fits the expected image of the southern hemisphere – extremely hot and sunny between December and March (especially in the north), cooler and with a frequent hazy mist, known as garúa, between April and November – although only in the polluted environs of Lima does the coastal winter ever get cold enough to necessitate a sweater. Swimming is possible all year round, though the water itself (thanks to the Humboldt Current) is cool-to-cold at the best of times; to swim or surf for any length of time you’d need to wear a wetsuit. Apart from the occasional shower over Lima, it hardly ever rains in the desert. The freak exception, occurring every few years, is when the shift in ocean currents of El Niño causes torrential downpours, devastating crops, roads and communities all down the coast.

In the Andes, the seasons are more clearly marked, with heavy rains from December to March and a warm, relatively dry period from June to September. Inevitably, though, there are always some sunny weeks in the rainy season and wet ones in the dry. A similar pattern dominates the Amazon Basin, though rainfall here is heavier and more frequent, and it’s hot and humid all year round. Confusingly, the rainy season in both the Andes and the Amazon basin is referred to locally as winter (invierno).

Taking all of this into account, the best time to visit the coast is around January while it’s hot, and the mountains and jungle are at their best after the rains, from May until September. Since this is unlikely to be possible on a single trip there’s little point in worrying about it – the country’s attractions are broad enough to override the need for guarantees of good weather.

< Back to Intro

Author picks

Our intrepid authors have travelled to every corner of Peru, trekking across Andean plateaus, whitewater rafting through some of the world’s deepest canyons and paddling down narrow creeks in the Amazon jungle. Here are some of their highlights:

Beach life Whether it’s challenging waves or gentle ripples, snorkelling with turtles or sunning yourself on sandy beaches you’re looking for, the resort town Máncora in Northern Peru is just the ticket. Prime surfing conditions are from April through December.

Lofty altitudes The Andes beckons for serious trekking and mountaineering. The colonial city of Arequipa is the place to start if you have your sights set, well, high, as it borders snow-capped mountains and volcanoes over 6000 metres tall. Experienced guides based in the city can accommodate any skill level.

Very fine dining The world-class restaurants in Lima naturally take advantage of their abundant Pacific waters, but what they also share in common is the exploration of the country’s marvellously diverse biomes and regional cooking methods. Top picks in Lima are Maido, Central, Mérito, Kjolle and Mayta.

Rainforest adventures The Peruvian Amazon is the second-biggest expanse of the Amazon, after the Brazilian, and of the most biodiverse places on Earth. Cultural changes, too, are visible from the peripheries to the interior. Manu is a good place to begin.

Best Inca ruins Machu Picchu is a place you must visit in person to experience not only its visual beauty, but the sound of the breezes through the valley, the smell of the verdant surroundings tinged with ancient stone, and the enormity of its secluded quietude..

Cusco Aside from being the jump-off point to see an array of Inca ruins and citadels, this remarkable colonial-era Andean city is inseparable from its Quechua culture. Take a day tour of Quechua villages and remote homesteads for a real taste of Andean life.

Our author recommendations don’t end here. We’ve flagged up our favourite places – a perfectly sited hotel, an atmospheric café, a special restaurant – throughout the Guide, highlighted with the symbol.

Shutterstock

HAMMOCKS ON AN AMAZON CARGO BOAT

Shutterstock

CAÑÓN DE COTAHUASI, NEAR AREQUIPA

< Back to Intro

25

things not to miss

It’s not possible to see everything that Peru has to offer in one trip – and we don’t suggest you try. What follows, in no particular order, is a selective taste of the country’s highlights: colourful towns, awe-inspiring ruins, spectacular hikes and exotic wildlife. Each highlight has a page reference to take you straight into the Guide, where you can find out more. Coloured numbers refer to chapters in the Guide section.

iStock

1 HIKING TO Machu Picchu

With mysterious temples and palaces nestling among hundreds of terraces, this fabulous Inca citadel is awe-inspiring. Alongside the classic Inca Trail, the Salcantay and Lares treks provide equally spectacular, multi-day ways to get there.

iStock

2 Peruvian wildlife

Whether spotting a three-toed sloth in the Amazon treetops or crossing paths with a vicuña while hiking in the Andes, Peru’s sheer variety of flora and fauna never fails to amaze.

Shutterstock

3 Marcahuasi

At an altitude of 4000m, the little village of Marcahuasi makes an excellent overnight trip from Lima. The mysterious rock shapes in the nearby plateau must be seen to be believed.

Tim Draper/Rough Guide

4 Textiles

Peru has been producing fine cotton and woollen textiles for over three thousand years, from the Ayahuasca-inspired designs of Shipibo cloth, to the intricate Andean weavings picked up in highland markets.

Shutterstock

5 Lagunas de Llanganuco

Part of the Parque Nacional Huascarán National Park, these pristine turquoise and emerald blue lagoons are hidden in a glacial valley in the Cordillera Blanca.

iStock

6 A traditional festival

Take in one of Peru’s renowned fiestas, a riot of music, dancing and outlandish costumes, such as Puno’s Fiesta de la Candelaria, or Paucartambo’s Fiesta de la Virgen del Carmen.

Shutterstock

7 Kuélap

The ruined citadel of Kuélap is one of the most fascinating archeological sites in the Andes.

iStock

8 Lago Titicaca

While the lake’s floating Islas de los Uros steal the limelight, less-visited Amantile and Taquile offer fascinating cultural insights into island life.

Shutterstock

9 Pisco sour

Deservedly the national drink of Peru, the pisco sour refreshes thanks to its limes with crushed ice – and can also have the kick of a mule.

Shutterstock

10 Pre-Inca craftwork

The country’s top museums boast stunning displays of beautifully ornate ceramics, textiles and gold adornments crafted by ancient civilizations such as the Nazca, Lambayeque and Chimu.

Shutterstock

11 Cañón del Colca

Twice the depth of the Grand Canyon, the enormous Cañón del Colca is one of Peru’s biggest attractions.

Tim Draper/Rough Guide

12 Paracas and Islas Ballestas

Rocky islets teeming with bird and marine life and a beguiling coastal desert landscape make this an unmissable day-trip.

iStock

13 Ceviche

Seafood ceviche is a popular alternative version of Peru’s national dish, which is typically made from fresh fish soaked in lime juice and chillies.

Treehouse Lodge

14 Sleeping in the selva

The evocative sounds and sights of the jungle are a highlight of any trip, whether you opt for a luxury lodge, a village homestay or a shelter in the rainforest.

Shutterstock

15 Lima fine dining

The upmarket neighbourhoods of Miraflores and Barranco tempt with some outstanding gourmet treats, with inventive twists to Peru’s culinary traditions, and exotic ingredients.

iStock

16 Cordillera Blanca

The Cordillera Blanca mountain range offers some of the best hiking and climbing in South America.

Tim Draper/Rough Guide

17 Arequipa

This white stone city, beautiful and intriguing, is watched over by the seasonally snow-capped volcano of El Misti.

Tim Draper/Rough Guide

18 Ayacucho

Bustling streets, impressive churches, passionate religious processions and unique artesanía make this Andean city a standout.

iStock

19 Sacsayhuaman

The zig-zag megalithic defensive walls of this Inca temple-fortress are home to the annual Inti Raymi Festival of the Sun.

Tim Draper/Rough Guide

20 Chavín de Huantar

Dating back over 2500 years, this large temple has many striking stone carvings and gargoyles, both externally and within its subterranean chambers.

iStock

21 Iquitos

The steamy Amazonian capital oozes character: from the floating port of Belén, to the rubber-boom era mansions and laidback bars that overlook the Río Amazonas.

Shutterstock

22 Máncora

Peru’s most popular surfer hangout features gorgeous beaches and buzzing nightlife; those who want better surf and fewer crowds will find Lobitos, 50km south, more up their street.

iStock

23 Valle de las Pirámides

Over twenty adobe pyramids built by a pre-Inca civilization surround a sacred mountain at Túcume in the northern deserts.

Tim Draper/Rough Guide

24 Las Líneas de Nazca

Take a flight to fully appreciate these intricate symbols, etched into the deserts of southern Peru.

Shutterstock

25 Trujillo

Though it doesn’t attract the hype of Lima or Cusco, Peru’s third city charms with its colonial architecture and cosmopolitan atmosphere.

< Back to Intro

Itineraries

First-time visitors will inevitably try to fit in most of the major sites of the south; for those with ample time on their hands, the northern circuit offers an offbeat array of destinations to suit all tastes. You could also base an entire trip keeping your adrenaline levels high, from scaling Andean peaks, to rafting rapids or surfing the waves.

THE GRAND TOUR

Taking in the main attractions of the capital, Lima, and the highlights of southern Peru, this tour can be covered in just over two weeks, but could very easily absorb an extra week or two, especially if you add on a jungle excursion.

Lima Spend a couple of days exploring the city’s colonial centre, its museums and art galleries, making pit-stops in its lively bars, cafés and fine-dining restaurant scene.

Paracas and the Islas Ballestas A few hours south of Lima, this beachside area offers boat trips to islands of penguins and sea lions, great beaches, desert scenery, a scattering of pre-Inca sites and fine seafood.

Nazca Located in an attractive desert valley, Nazca sits next to a wide plain on which an ancient civilization etched enormous animal figures, as well as geometric shapes and perfectly straight lines.

Arequipa and canyon country Arequipa is a stunning city with a colonial heart, built of white volcanic stone. The rugged regions around the city offer access to two of the world’s deepest canyons – Colca and Cotahuasi.

Puno and Lago Titicaca One of the most desolate yet scenic corners of Peru, Puno sits at the edge of the enormous Lago Titicaca. Take in its lively and vibrant music and festivals scene, and visit the lake’s peaceful islands.

Cusco Capital of the Inca Empire, Cusco today embodies outdoor activities, great dining, lively nightlife and craft shopping as much as it does ancient history.

Reserva Nacional Tambopata By taking a short return flight from Cusco to Puerto Maldonado, you’re only a couple of hours’ boat ride away from the jungle lodges and spectacular wildlife in this tropical reserve.

Machu Picchu Easily accessible from Cusco, this magnificent Inca citadel makes a fitting culmination to any trip.

Create your own itinerary with Rough Guides. Whether you’re after adventure or a family-friendly holiday, we have a trip for you, with all the activities you enjoy doing and the sights you want to see. All our trips are devised by local experts who get the most out of the destination. Visit www.roughguides.com/trips to chat with one of our travel agents.

THE NORTHERN CIRCUIT

The main focus of the little-visited north is beaches and surfing, coastal archeology and a chain of ancient mountain citadels and tombs, with the option of a jungle trip tagged on for those with more than two weeks to spare.

Máncora and the beaches Máncora is a trendy focal point with several fabulous sandy beaches – all good for surfing, fishing and diving, as well as Cabo Blanco and Lobitas further south.

The Mochica Trail The ancient Mochica civilization developed an important centre around the Huacas del Sol y de la Luna and is also in evidence at the artefact-rich tombs of El Señor de Sipán and the Valle de los Pirámides.

Ventanillas de Otuzco A huge pre-Inca necropolis of ventanillas (windows) where Cajamarca chieftains were once buried in niches cut into volcanic rock.

Cajamarca to Chachapoyas bus ride If you fancy a hairy adventure – with sick bags included, take the bus from Cajamarca to Chachapoyas, an epic twelve-hour journey along knife-edge single track roads edged by plunging mountain valleys.

Chachapoyas and Kuélap Inland and high up in the northern Andes, the Chachapoyas region abounds in waterfalls, cliff-bound mausoleums and little-explored trails, and is home to Kuélap, a mountain citadel with 20m-high walls.

Into the Amazon Basin Escape into the jungle to a yoga or ayahuasca retreat, go hummingbird spotting with a birdwatching tour or travel as far as Reserva Nacional Pacaya-Samiria or Iquitos for a taste of the Peruvian rainforest.

ADVENTURE ACTIVITY CIRCUIT

Peru is an adventure-holiday destination par excellence, with countless mountain routes to trek, bike or drive across, rivers to raft at any whitewater grade, and legendary ocean waves to surf. What follows is a small selection for an action-packed three weeks.

Cusco and around Base yourself in Cusco and book an adrenaline-filled four-day rafting and camping trip down the Río Apurímac, finishing off with a revitalizing soak in the hot springs of Cconoc. Choosing a tour that takes you to homestays is an ideal introduction to Peru’s vibrant rural culture, as well as being a sustainable way to travel.

Into the Valle Sagrado Heading out from Cusco into the Valle Sagrado, (the Sacred Valley) you can whizz along ziplines, go bungee jumping or take on one of the challenging multi-day hikes to Machu Picchu. Or, make the 45-minute journey to the valley’s gateway village of Ollantaytambo and use that as your base.

Huaraz Fly to Lima, where you can stop off for a spot of paragliding before heading north by bus to Huaraz, the springboard for exploring some of Peru’s highest mountains.

Into the Cordillera Blanca Mountain-bike the scenic Callejón de Huaylas, canoe the rapids of the Río Santa before climbing one of the snow-capped peaks of the Cordillera Blanca, to glimpse some of its three hundred or so glacial lakes.

Puerto Chicama A day’s bus ride further north takes you to Puerto Chicama, one of the country’s top surf spots, featuring the world’s longest left-breaking wave. Surf camps out here are great for solo travellers, although watching the action from shore is also highly entertaining.

< Back to Intro

Sustainable travel

There’s a pressing need for travellers to make their adventures impact positively on any trip, but especially in a country that relies so heavily on tourism. From the threatened Amazon rainforest to indigenous Andean communities and the 2000-mile coast, responsibly travelling in Peru means supporting the conservation of unique ecosystems and directing income into the right hands. Here are some principles and strategies to keep in mind, to help reduce your footprint and promote sustainable travel initiatives.

While UNESCO World Heritage sites such as Machu Picchu have long been strictly maintained and monitored, Peru has upped its eco- and cultural-friendly game by partnering with NGOs and tourist agents to promote Turismo Sostenible, sustainable tourism. The programmes certify agencies when they meet certain criteria, so meaningfully contributing to local indigenous cultures and the country’s magnificent ecosystems is easier than ever. In every chapter of this book, you will find recommendations for eco trips and retreats.

Sleeping More Soundly

Because of the country’s wealth of protected natural and culturally important sites, along with a more generally heightened awareness of sustainable travel, eco- and sustainable lodgings certified by the government or international agencies are now a popular business model in Peru. Accommodation ranging from hostels to luxurious hotels are available in nearly all places of interest, and are easy to research on your search engine.

Importantly, certification requires that aside from responsible resource and waste management, the lodgings must abide by fair employment practices for the local community and contribute to the preservation of the environment. For more information on this government scheme, visit peru.turismosostenible.org.

Conscious Splurge

It would be easy to equate spending large sums of money as wasteful, with a possibility of landing in corporate hands. However, hefty travel package price tags aren’t only about luxury accommodation and exquisite dining, but often funding scientific study of flora and fauna, as well as the support of indigenous communities and their ancestral cultures. Luxury eco-hotels, for instance, practise fair trade exchange with local communities’ food products and craftware, such as textiles to table settings.

A few high-end restaurants also work closely with traditional food suppliers, from fishermen to tuber farmers, in addition to contributing to the research of an array of foods and botanicals and their uses.

Eco-tourism packages

Because of the rise in conscious tourism, there are now numerous travel agencies that specialize in arranging packages designed to minimize travellers’ carbon footprints and benefit indigenous communities, along with biomes and their respective environments, from the Pacific coast to the Andes and Amazon.

Whether you choose a backpacking holiday around hostels and guesthouses, or a luxury package, there is an abundance of operators working as a conduit of good, through contributions to fair trade initiatives and preservation efforts for national parks and historic sites.

Volunteering

A volunteering holiday presents the opportunity for greater immersion in a community, through involvement with a wide range of projects, whether it’s agricultural work or renovating an old school building. There are several national and international agencies that offer programmes for students, adults, families and even corporate team building. Much, if not most, of the fees are pumped into the community projects, and many of the agency programmes include downtime for further travel within the country. Agency staff are always on hand, so you needn’t worry that your language skills are lacking.

Environmentally Friendlier Transport

All modes of transportation are generally inexpensive throughout Peru, making taxis and car hire an attractive option for local and distance travel. But like most of South America, Peru has an extensive network of bus transport that reaches every corner of the country, though, naturally, most travellers opt for a 90-minute flight to Cusco rather than about 20 hours on the road.

Shutterstock

LITTER-PICKING VOLUNTEER WORK

The government has also initiated a nationwide scheme to make urban transit more sustainable, by helping to update bus equipment and traffic flow. This is making already quick and reliable services even more attractive to commuters, reducing dependence on cars and taxis.

Shutterstock

AMANTANI ISLAND, LAKE TITICACA

< Back to Intro

Shutterstock

PERUVIAN DESERT

Basics

Getting there

Getting around

Accommodation

Food and drink

The media

Festivals and public holidays

Outdoor activities and sports

Travel essentials

Getting there

Unless you’re travelling overland through South America, you’ll need to fly to reach Peru. Although prices vary depending on the time of year, how far in advance you buy and the type of ticket, the main airlines seem to hold fares fairly steady and tickets can easily be bought online. Apart from Christmas and to a lesser extent Easter, high season is roughly from late May to early October.

You can sometimes cut costs by going through a specialist flight or travel agent, who, in addition to dealing with discounted flights, will occasionally also offer special student and youth fares and a range of other travel-related services such as insurance, car rental, tours and the like.

Most people arrive at Jorge Chavez airport in Lima. There’s an airport hotel ( 017 112 00, ramada.com), but it’s a fair distance to downtown areas of Lima – Miraflores, San Isidro, Barranco – or even the old Lima Centro. A taxi to downtown Lima takes 35 to 55 minutes. Inside the airport is the official Taxi Green service ( taxigreen.com.pe). It is strongly advised to use this service and not take one of the local taxis outside the airport, which have a reputation for robbing passengers. Alternatively, make sure you organize pickup with your hotel.

Flights from the UK

As there are no direct flights from the UK to Peru, getting there always involves switching planes somewhere in Europe or America. From Heathrow you can expect the journey to take anywhere between 16 and 22 hours, depending on the routing and stopovers. The permutations are endless, but the most common routes are via Amsterdam or Paris on KLM ( klm.com), via Madrid on Iberia ( iberia.com), via Frankfurt on Lufthansa ( lufthansa.com) or via Miami, Atlanta, Dallas, Houston or Toronto on one of the North American airlines.

Fares vary almost as much as route options, and the closer to departure you buy, the higher the price is likely to be, so it is worth booking in advance. KLM and Iberia tend to offer the most competitive rates.

There’s also a wide range of limitations on the tickets (fixed-date returns within three months etc), and options such as open-jaw flights are available (flying into Lima and home from Río, for example). Having established the going rate, you can always check these prices against those on offer at discount flight outlets and other travel agents listed in the press.

It’s best to avoid buying international air tickets in Peru, where prices are inflated by a high tax (and are not cheap to begin with). If you’re uncertain of your return date, it will probably still work out cheaper to pay the extra for an open-ended return than to buy a single back from Peru.

Flights from the US and Canada

Nearly all flights to Peru from the US go via Miami, Houston or Atlanta. Delta ( delta.com), and American Airlines ( aa.com) are the traditional carriers serving Peru from the US. A number of airlines fly from Miami to Lima, including American, Copa ( copaair.com), Avianca ( avianca.com) and LATAM ( latam.com); the fare is usually US$400-700 return. Fares from New York (via Miami) cost no more than fares from Miami.

Flights from Toronto straight to Lima start at about Can$800 with LATAM ( latam.com); it can be a little cheaper when flying from Montréal via Toronto.

There is a huge variety of tours and packages on offer from the US and Canada to Peru, starting from around US$1500 for a two- to three-day package and ranging up to US$4000–5000. You’ll also find a number of packages that include Peru on their itineraries as part of a longer South American tour.

Flights from Australia, New Zealand and South Africa

Scheduled flights to Peru from Australia and New Zealand are rather limited and tend to involve changing planes, usually in the US.

A BETTER KIND OF TRAVEL

At Rough Guides we are passionately committed to travel. We believe it helps us understand the world we live in and the people we share it with – and of course tourism is vital to many developing economies. But the scale of modern tourism has also damaged some places irreparably, and climate change is accelerated by most forms of transport, especially flying. We encourage all our authors to consider the carbon footprint of the journeys they make in the course of researching our guides.

LATAM ( latam.com) flies from Sydney to Lima via Auckland, Miami, or Santiago de Chile, while Delta ( delta.com) flies from Sydney to Lima via the US; Air Canada flies via Montréal and Toronto. LATAM ( latam.com) flies regularly from Melbourne via Santiago de Chile.

Both LATAM ( latam.com) and Qantas ( qantas.com.au) have flights to Peru via Santiago de Chile. Round-the-world (RTW) tickets including Peru are usually a good investment.

All flights from South Africa to Lima involve making connecting flights. Lufthansa ( lufthansa.com) flies from Johannesburg to Frankfurt where there’s a change for Lima flights via São Paulo, or with COPA Airlines, New York or Panama City. South African Airways ( flysaa.com) flies to Lima from Cape Town via Johannesburg, with a changeover in São Paulo.

Buses from neighbouring countries

Peru shares borders with five other South American countries: Brazil, Ecuador, Colombia, Bolivia and Chile. From Brazil, you can drive directly into Peru via Puerto Maldonado on the Transoceanic Highway; Puerto Maldonado is just two to three hours out from the border.

Arriving in southern Peru from Bolivia entails catching a bus, either directly or in stages, from La Paz across the altiplano to Copacabana or Desaguaderos, both near Lago Titicaca, and on to Puno, or even straight through to Cusco, though this last option is taxing. From Chile it’s a similarly easy bus ride, across the southern border from Arica to Tacna, which has good connections with Lima and Arequipa.

From Ecuador, there are two routes, the most popular being a scenic coastal trip, starting by road from Huaquillas, crossing the border at Aguas Verdes and then taking a short bus or taxi ride on to Tumbes, from where there are daily buses and flights to Chiclayo, Trujillo and Lima. An alternative – and also rather scenic – crossing comes into Peru from Macará in Ecuador over the frontier to La Tina, from where there are daily buses to Peru’s coast.

Boats from neighbouring countries

It’s possible to take a boat ride up the Amazon from the three-way frontier between Brazil, Colombia and Peru to Iquitos. This is a twelve-hour to three-day ride depending on the type of boat. From Leticia, just over on the Colombian side of the three-way frontier, there are speedboats up the Río Amazonas more or less daily to Iquitos. Taking the slow boat is usually a memorable experience – you’ll need a hammock (unless you book one of the few cabins) and plenty of reading material.

Agents and operators

Adventure tours or customized packages are often good value, but always check in advance exactly what’s included in the price. Other specialist companies organize treks and overland travel, often based around some special interest, such as the rainforest, birdwatching, indigenous culture or Inca sites.

Abercrombie & Kent UK 01242 386 500, abercrombiekent.co.uk. With long-established contacts with the best authentic and luxury hotels and specialists in everything from art to archeology, A&K also offers a guardian angel service out of Cusco on customized trips, which means someone is on hand 24/7 for any requests, big or small.

Adventure Associates Australia 02 6355 23022, adventureassociates.com. Tours and cruises to Central and South America, including Peruvian Amazon river cruises.

Adventure Travel New Zealand 0800 269 000 or 04 494 7180, adventuretravel.co.nz. Off-the-beaten path treks to Machu Picchu, tours around Lago Titicaca, food tours of Lima, as well as family trips and adventures by bike and kayak.

Adventure World Australia 1 300 295 049, adventureworld.com.au. Agents for a vast array of international adventure travel companies that operate trips to every continent, with near a dozen options for Peru.

Backroads US 1 800 462 2848 or 510 527 1555, backroads.com. Cycling, hiking and multi-sport tour offerings including Cusco/Machu Picchu.

Classic Journeys US 1 800 200 3887, classicjourneys.com. Offers cultural walking adventures and family trips to Machu Picchu.

Exodus UK 0203 553 6321, exodus.co.uk. Adventure-tour operators taking small groups on tours to South America, usually incorporating Peru’s main destinations. They also provide specialist programmes including adventure, activity and walking trips.

Explore Worldwide UK 01252 883 505, explore.co.uk. Big range of small-group tours, treks and expeditions on all continents, including the Amazon, Cusco and Lago Titicaca areas of Peru.

Mountain Travel Sobek US 1 888 831 7526, mtsobek.com. Hiking, river-rafting and trekking in Peru.

Nature Expeditions International 1 877 659 7520 or 954 693 8852, naturexp.com. Offers luxury wildlife, adventure and cultural tours in 35 countries around the world.

On the Go Tours UK 020 7371 1113, onthegotours.com. Eight- to 21-day tours in Peru; highlights include treks to Machu Picchu and the Amazon.

Overseas Adventure Travel US 1 800 995 1925, oattravel.com. Offers a wide variety of adventure trips around the planet, including some South American combinations, like Machu Picchu and the Galápagos. Good for solo travellers, with no or low single supplements.

Peru For Less US 1 877 269 0309 or 1 817 230 4971, UK 0203 002 0571; peruforless.com. Specializes in travellers who seek worry-free, fully customizable tours and services combined with personalized attention from their Peru tour experts – budget, luxury or boutique.

Real World UK 0113 2625329, realworldholidays.co.uk. South America specialists providing personalized tours of Peru for individuals, couples and small groups. As well as visits to the usual suspects, they have good and up-to-date local knowledge to help you get off the beaten track.

Select Latin America UK 020 7407 1478, selectlatinamerica.co.uk. Specializes in bespoke journeys to all parts of Peru, including Huaraz, the northern coast and Iquitos, with meticulous planning. Good rates for small boutique accommodation and local guides that are experts in culture, wildlife, archeology or birdwatching.

Trailfinders UK 0207 368 1200, Republic of Ireland 01 677 7888; trailfinders.com. One of the best-informed and most efficient agents for independent travellers.

World Expeditions Australia 02 8270 8400 or 02 8631 3300, New Zealand 09 368 4161, UK 0800 0744 135 or 020 8875 5060, US/Canada 1 800 567 2216 or Canada 1 613 241 2700; worldexpeditions.com. Adventure company offering several programmes focused on the Peruvian jungle.

< Back to Basics

Getting around

With distances in Peru being so vast, many Peruvians and other travellers are increasingly flying to their destinations, as all Peruvian cities are within a two-hour flight of Lima. Most Peruvians, however, still get around the country by bus, a cheap way to travel with routes to almost everywhere. In a few cases, it’s possible to arrive by train – an interesting and sought-after experience itself – though these trips are considerably slower than the equivalent bus journeys. There are also some tourist trains running to key sites.

By plane

There’s a good domestic air service in Peru these days. Some places in the jungle can only sensibly be reached by plane, and Peru is so vast that the odd flight can save a lot of time. There are three main established airline companies: LATAM ( latam.com), a Chilean-owned company, who fly to all of the main cities and many smaller destinations; StarPerú ( starperu.com), a Peruvian airline that began operating in 2005; and Avianca ( avianca.com). More recently, Peruvian Airlines ( peruvian.pe) has set up to compete with these three, along with Chilean-owned Sky Airline ( skyairline.com) and the ubiquitous LATAM ( latam.com).

Most tickets for all these domestic airlines can be booked and bought online as well as from travel agents or airline offices in all major towns. The most popular domestic routes cost upwards of S/360 (US$100) and are generally cheaper if booked well in advance. In high season some Lima–Cusco flights are fully booked months in advance. Less busy routes tend to be less expensive per air mile and can be booked the day before. On all flights it’s probably wise to confirm your booking two days before departure.

Flights are often cancelled or delayed, and sometimes they even leave earlier than scheduled – especially in the jungle where the weather can be a problem. If a passenger hasn’t shown up an hour before the flight, the company may give the seat to someone on the waiting list, so it’s best to be on time whether you’re booked or are merely hopeful. The luggage allowance on internal flights can range from 10 to 16kg, so pack lightly.

By bus

Peru’s buses are run by a variety of private companies, all of which offer remarkably low fares, making it possible to travel from one end of the country to the other (over 2000km) for under US$35. Long-distance bus journeys cost from around US$2 per hour on the fast coastal highway, and are even cheaper on the slower mountain and jungle routes. The condition of the buses ranges from the efficient and relatively luxurious Cruz del Sur fleet that runs along the coast, to the older, more battered buses used on local runs throughout the country. Some of the better bus companies, including Cruz del Sur ( cruzdelsur.com.pe), offer excellent onboard facilities including sandwich bars and video entertainment. The major companies generally offer two or three levels of service, and many companies run the longer journeys by night with a bus-cama (comfortable, deeply reclining seat) option. Cruz del Sur operates an excellent website with timetables and ticket purchase option (credit cards accepted). Oltursa ( oltursa.pe) and Movil Tours ( moviltours.com.pe) are also reputable companies, and have services to most major destinations throughout the country.

Addresses

Addresses are frequently written with just the street name and number: for example, Pizarro 135. Officially, though, they’re usually prefixed by Calle, Jirón or Avenida (abbreviated to C, Jr and Av in listings throughout this guidebook). The first digit of any street number (or sometimes the first two digits) represents the block number within the street as a whole. Note that in Cusco some streets have two street names in order to honour Inca/Quechua heritage – the official Spanish name and an Inca/Quechua equivalent. This is not, however, a challenge for foreigners as the default names are still the official ones.

As the only means of transport available to most of the population, buses run with surprising regularity, and the coastal Panamerican Highway and many of the main routes into the mountains have now been paved (one of ex-President Fujimori’s better legacies), so on such routes services are generally punctual. On some of the rougher mountainous routes, punctures, arguments over rights of way and, during the rainy season, landslides may delay the arrival time by several hours.

Peru is investing in a series of terminal terrestres, or terrapuertos, centralizing the departure and arrival of the manifold operators. Lima has one such station, the Gran Terminal Terrestre Plaza Norte, but, in any case, you should always double-check where the bus is leaving from as some companies operate from their individual terminals around town. If you can’t get to a bus depot or terminal terrestre, you can try to catch a bus from the exit roads or police checkpoints on the outskirts of most Peruvian cities, though there’s no guarantee of getting a ride or a seat.

For intercity rides, it’s best to buy tickets in advance direct from the bus company offices; for local trips, you can buy tickets on the bus itself. On long-distance journeys, try to avoid getting seats right over the jarring wheels, especially if the bus is tackling mountain or jungle roads.

By taxi

Taxis can be found anywhere at any time in almost every town. Any car can become a taxi simply by sticking a taxi sign up in the front window; a lot of people, especially in Lima, take advantage of this to supplement their income, although beware – robberies in illegal taxis are not unheard of, and it’s certainly not advisable to use them, especially if you’re a single female traveller. It’s always best to call a reliable taxi company (your hotel or restaurant can do so for you). Whenever you get into a taxi, always fix the price in advance (in nuevo soles rather than in US dollars) since few of them have meters. Taxi drivers in Peru do not expect tips.

Relatively short journeys in Lima generally cost around S/5–10 (US$2–4), but it’s cheaper elsewhere in the country. Radio taxis, minicabs and airport taxis tend to cost more. Even relatively long taxi rides in Lima are likely to cost less than S/20 (US$6), except to and from the airport, which ranges from S/35 to S/55 (US$10–15); prices depend on how far across the city you’re going and how bad the traffic is.

By mototaxi

In many rural towns, you’ll find small cars – mainly motorcycle rickshaws, known variously as mototaxis, all competing for customers. They are cheap, starting at S/1 for short rides, if slightly dangerous and not that comfortable, especially if there’s more than two of you or if you’ve got a lot of luggage. In a rural town, you might find normal car taxis (eg Toyotas) and mototaxis competing for business; a ride across town might cost S/5–8 in a normal taxi but only S/2–3 in a mototaxi.

By colectivo

Colectivos (shared taxis) are a very useful way of getting around that’s peculiar to Peru. They connect all the coastal towns, and many of the larger centres in the mountains. Like the buses, many are ageing imports from the US – huge old Dodge Coronets – though, increasingly, fast new Japanese and Korean minibuses run between the cities.

Colectivos tend to be faster than the bus, though they are often as much as twice the price. Most colectivo cars manage to squeeze in about seven people including the driver (three in the front and four in the back), and can be found in the centre of a town or at major stopping places along the main roads. If more than one is ready to leave it’s worth bargaining a little, as the price is often negotiable. Colectivo minibuses, also known as combis, can squeeze in twice as many people, or often more.

In the cities, colectivos have an appalling reputation for safety. There are crashes reported in the Lima press every week, mostly caused by the highly competitive nature of the business. There are so many combis covering the same major arterial routes in Lima that they literally race each other to be the first to the next street corner. They frequently crash, turn over and knock down pedestrians. Equally dangerous is the fact that the driver is in such a hurry that he does not always wait for you to get in. If you’re not careful he’ll pull away while you’ve still got a foot on the pavement, putting you in serious danger of breaking a leg.

By train

Peru’s spectacular train journeys are in themselves a major attraction, and you should aim to take at least one long-distance train ride during your trip, especially as the trains connect some of Peru’s major tourist sights. At the time of writing, the Central Railway ( ferrocarrilcentral.com.pe), which climbs and switchbacks its way up from Lima into the Andes as far as Huancayo on the world’s highest standard-gauge tracks, only runs about twice a month between April and September.

There are two rail companies operating out of Cusco. PeruRail ( perurail.com) offers passenger services inland from Puno on Lago Titicaca north to Cusco, from where another line heads out down the magnificent Urubamba Valley as far as Machu Picchu Pueblo. On the Cusco-to-Machu Picchu line there is also Inca Rail ( incarail.com).

The trains move slowly, allowing ample time to observe what’s going on outside. For all train journeys, it’s advisable to buy tickets a week or two before travelling and even further in advance during high season.

By car

Driving around Peru is generally not a problem outside of Lima, and allows you to see some out-of-the-way places that you might otherwise miss. However, road traffic in Lima is abominable, both in terms of its recklessness and the sheer volume. Traffic jams are ubiquitous between 8 and 10am and again between 4 and 7pm every weekday, while air pollution from old and poorly maintained vehicles is a real health risk, particularly in Lima and Arequipa.

If you bring a car into Peru that is not registered there, you will need to show (and keep with you at all times) a libreta de pago por la aduana (proof of customs payment) normally provided by the relevant automobile association of the country you are coming from. Spare parts, particularly tyres, should be carried, along with a tent, emergency water and food. The chance of theft is quite high – the vehicle, your baggage and accessories are all vulnerable when parked.

International driving licences are valid for six months in Peru, after which a permit is required from the Touring y Automóvil Club del Perú, Av Trinidad Moran 698, Lince, Lima (Mon–Fri 8.30am–5.30pm, Sat 9am–1pm; 01 611 9999, touring.pe).

Renting a car costs much the same as in Europe and North America. The major rental firms all have offices in Lima, but outside the capital you’ll generally find only local companies are represented. You may find it more convenient to rent a car in advance online – expect to pay from around US$40 a day, or US$200 a week for the smallest car. In the Amazon cities it’s usually possible to rent motorbikes or mopeds by the hour or by the day: this is a good way of getting to know a town or being able to shoot off into the jungle for a day.

By boat

There are no coastal boat services in Peru, but in many areas – on Lago Titicaca and especially in the jungle regions – water is the obvious means of getting around. From Puno, on Lago Titicaca, there are currently no regular services to Bolivia by ship or hydrofoil – though check with the tour agencies in Puno – but there are plenty of smaller boats that will take visitors out to the various islands in the lake. These aren’t expensive and a price can usually be negotiated down at the port.

In the jungle areas motorized boats come in two basic forms: those covered speedboats with individual seats and a large outboard motor (deslizadores/rápidos) and those uncovered narrow wooden dugout canoes with a slow, noisy peque-peque engine; the outboard is faster and more manoeuvrable, but they cost a lot more to run. Your best option is to hire a canoe along with its guide/driver for a few days. This means searching around in the port and negotiating, but you can often get a peque-peque canoe from around S/150–240 (US$40-65) per day, which will invariably work out cheaper than taking an organized tour, as well as giving you a choice of guide and companions. Obviously, the more people you can get together, the cheaper it will be per person. Lanchas, the plodding cargo boats that ply the Amazon a few times a week between the major ports, are cheap (some even include meals) and take a few days. Iquitos boats travel to Pucallpa and Yurimaguas, others connect the Colombian/Brazilian border with Peru and Manaus, Brazil.

On foot

Even if you’ve no intention of doing any serious hiking, there’s a good deal of walking involved in checking out many of the most enjoyable Peruvian attractions. Climbing from Cusco up to the fortress of Sacsayhuaman, for example, or wandering around at Machu Picchu, involves more than an average Sunday afternoon stroll. Bearing in mind the rugged terrain throughout Peru, the absolute minimum footwear is a strong pair of running shoes. Much better is a pair of hiking boots with good ankle support.

Hiking – whether in the desert, mountains or jungle – can be an enormously rewarding experience, but you should go properly equipped and bear in mind a few of the potential hazards. Never stray too far without food and water, and keep something warm and something waterproof to wear. The weather is renowned for its dramatic changeability, especially in the mountains, where there is always the additional danger of altitude sickness. In the jungle the biggest danger is getting lost.

In the mountains it’s often advisable to hire a pack animal to carry your gear. Llamas can only carry about 25–30kg and move slowly; a burro (donkey) carries around 80kg and a mule – the most common and the best pack animal – will shift 150kg with relative ease. Mules can be hired at about S/90 a day, and they normally come with an arriero, a muleteer who’ll double as a guide. It is also possible to hire mules or horses for riding but this costs a little more. With a guide and beast of burden it’s quite simple to reach even the most remote valleys, ruins and mountain passes, travelling in much the same way as Pizarro and his men did over four hundred years ago.

Hitching

Hitching in Peru usually means catching a ride with a truck driver, who will almost always expect payment. Always agree on a price before getting in as there are stories of drivers stopping in the middle of nowhere and demanding unreasonably high amounts (from foreigners and Peruvians alike) before going any further. Hitching isn’t considered dangerous in Peru, but having said that, few people, even Peruvians, actually hitch. Trucks can be flagged down anywhere but there is greater choice around markets, and at police controls or petrol stations on the outskirts of towns. Trucks tend to be the only form of public transport in some less accessible regions, travelling the roads that buses won’t touch and serving remote communities, so you may end up having to sit on top of a pile of potatoes or bananas.

Hitchhiking in private cars is not recommended, and, in any case, it’s very rare that one will stop to pick you up.

Organized tours

There are hundreds of travel agents and tour operators in Peru, and reps hunt out customers at bus terminals, train stations and in city centres. While they can be expensive, organized excursions can be a quick and relatively effortless way to see some of the popular attractions and the more remote sites, while a prearranged trek of something like the Inca Trail can take much of the worry out of camping preparations and ensure that you get decent campsites, a sound meal and help with carrying your equipment in what can be difficult walking conditions.

Many adventure tour companies offer excellent and increasingly exciting packages and itineraries – ranging from mountain biking, whitewater rafting, jungle photo-safaris, mountain trekking and climbing, to more comfortable and gentler city and countryside tours. Tours cost US$60–300 a day and, in Cusco and Huaraz in particular, there’s an enormous selection of operators to choose from (note that most tour operators in Peru charge in US dollars). Cusco is a pretty good base for hiking, whitewater rafting, canoeing, horseriding or going on an expedition into the Amazonian jungle with an adventure tour company; Arequipa and the Cañón de Colca offer superb hiking; Huaraz is also a good base for trekking and mountaineering; Iquitos, on the Río Amazonas, is one of the best places for adventure trips into the jungle and has a reasonable range of tour operators. Several of these companies have branches in Lima, if you want to book a tour in advance. Reliable tour operators are listed in the relevant sections throughout the Guide.

< Back to Basics

Accommodation

Peru has the typical range of Latin American accommodation, from top-class international hotels at prices that compare with any Western capital down to basic rooms or shared dorms in hostels. The biggest development over the last ten years has been the rise of the mid-range option, reflecting the growth of both domestic and international tourism. Camping is frequently possible, sometimes free and perfectly acceptable in most rural parts of Peru, though there are very few formal campsites.

Note that accommodation denominations of hotel, hostal, residencial, pensión or hospedaje are almost meaningless in terms of what you’ll find inside. Virtually all upmarket accommodation will call itself a hotel or, in the countryside regions, a posada. In the jungle, tambo lodges can be anything from somewhere quite luxurious to an open-sided, palm-thatched hut with space for slinging a hammock. Technically speaking, somewhere that calls itself a pensión or residencial ought to specialize in longer-term accommodation, and while they may well offer discounts for stays of a week or more, they are just as geared up for short stays. There’s no standard or widely used rating system, so, apart from the information given in this book, the only way to tell whether a place is suitable or not is to walk in and take a look around – the proprietors won’t mind this, and you’ll soon get used to spotting places with promise.

Many of the major hotels will request a credit card number to reserve rooms in advance; be careful, since if you fail to turn up they may consider this a no-show and charge you for the room anyhow. Always check beforehand whether the quoted price includes IGV tax (as a tourist, if you register your passport and tourist card with the hotel, they don’t charge you this tax, which is currently eighteen percent). It’s not advisable to pay travel agents in one city for accommodation required in the next town; by all means ask agents to make reservations but do not ask them to send payments as it is always simpler and safer to do that yourself.

The prices quoted for accommodation throughout the Guide are for the cheapest double room in high season, except where noted, and usually include breakfast and wi-fi; prices are always per night, even if there’s a minimum stay.

Hotels

Peru’s cheaper hotels are generally old – sometimes beautifully so, converted from colonial mansions with rooms grouped around a courtyard. They tend to be within a few blocks of a town’s central plaza, general