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Chronicles of The Cape Fear River: 1660 - 1916
Chronicles of The Cape Fear River: 1660 - 1916
Chronicles of The Cape Fear River: 1660 - 1916
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Chronicles of The Cape Fear River: 1660 - 1916

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James Sprunt served on a blockade runner during the Civil War, and later became one of the wealthiest residents of Wilmington, N.C. Noted for his philanthropy, Sprunt loved the Cape Fear region of the Tar Heel State with a fervor that shone through in everything he did. Sprunt was also a much respected historian of the Cape Fear region, and his Chronicles of The Cape Fear River: 1660-1916 is widely recognized as the bible for those interested in the history of southeastern North Carolina. From the native Indians and first white settlers to the American Revolution, Civil War, Reconstruction and the beginning of a new century, Sprunt has written the definitive history of the region. It is undoubtedly the cornerstone of any bookshelf devoted to the Cape Fear.-Print ed.
LanguageEnglish
Release dateApr 20, 2023
ISBN9781805232148
Chronicles of The Cape Fear River: 1660 - 1916

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    Chronicles of The Cape Fear River - James Sprunt

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    © Patavium Publishing 2023, all rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted by any means, electrical, mechanical or otherwise without the written permission of the copyright holder.

    Publisher’s Note

    Although in most cases we have retained the Author’s original spelling and grammar to authentically reproduce the work of the Author and the original intent of such material, some additional notes and clarifications have been added for the modern reader’s benefit.

    We have also made every effort to include all maps and illustrations of the original edition the limitations of formatting do not allow of including larger maps, we will upload as many of these maps as possible.

    TABLE OF CONTENTS

    TABLE OF CONTENTS 1

    DEDICATION 13

    Preface 14

    Foreword 15

    Exploration and Settlement 17

    ORIGIN OF THE NAME CAPE FEAR. 17

    THE CAPE FEAR RIVER AND ITS TRIBUTARIES. 21

    IMPROVEMENTS BELOW WILMINGTON. 22

    NORTHEAST CAPE FEAR RIVER. 26

    BLACK RIVER. 27

    TOWN CREEK. 28

    BRUNSWICK RIVER. 29

    THE CAPE FEAR INDIANS. 30

    NOTES ON THE ARCHAEOLOGY OF NEW HANOVER COUNTY. 32

    INDIAN MOUNDS OF THE CAPE FEAR. 35

    INDIANS OF THE LOWER CAPE FEAR. 40

    REPORT OF COMMISSIONERS SENT FROM BARBADOES IN 1663 TO EXPLORE THE COAST. 41

    CHARLESTOWN—THE FIRST ATTEMPTED SETTLEMENT ON THE CAPE FEAR. 45

    SANDFORD’S ACCOUNT OF CONDITIONS ON CHARLES RIVER. 47

    MASSACHUSETTS SENDS SOME RELIEF. 49

    THE END OF THE SETTLEMENT ON CHARLES RIVER—THE FIRST CHARLESTOWN. 50

    SAMUEL MAVERICKE TO SEC. Ld ARLINGTON. 52

    CAPE FEAR PIRATES OF 1719. 53

    Permanent Settlement 54

    THE TOWN OF BRUNSWICK. 54

    A VISIT TO THE CAPE FEAR IN 1734. 56

    ERECTION OF WILMINGTON—DECAY OF BRUNSWICK. 60

    THE SPANISH INVASION, 1747. 64

    THE WAR OF JENKINS’ EAR. 65

    THE SITE OF FORT JOHNSTON. 67

    COLONIAL PLANTATIONS ON THE CAPE FEAR. 70

    COLONIAL ORTON. 72

    ORTON. 76

    CRANE NECK HERON COLONY ON ORTON PLANTATION. 77

    PLANTATIONS ON THE NORTHEAST RIVER. 79

    SOCIAL CONDITIONS. 89

    LIBRARIES ON THE CAPE FEAR. 93

    COLONIAL GOVERNORS OF NORTH CAROLINA. 94

    COLONIAL MEMBERS OF THE GENERAL ASSEMBLY. 100

    PROVINCIAL CONGRESSES. 102

    Resistance Before the Revolution 103

    THE STAMP ACT ON THE CAPE FEAR. 103

    WILLIAM HOUSTON, THE STAMP AGENT—ANOTHER VIEWPOINT. 110

    HOUSTON BEFORE 1765. 111

    HOUSTON AFTER 1765. 113

    RUSSELLBOROUGH—SCENE OF FIRST ARMED RESISTANCE. 114

    SONS OF LIBERTY IN NORTH CAROLINA. 116

    The Revolution 119

    THE INSTITUTION OF THE REVOLUTIONARY GOVERNMENT. 119

    PROCEEDINGS OF THE COMMITTEE OF SAFETY. 120

    WHIGS AND TORIES. 122

    THE BATTLE OF ELIZABETHTOWN. 125

    OLD-TIME CAPE FEAR HEROES. 128

    CORNELIUS HARNETT’S WILL. 130

    FLORA MACDONALD. 132

    VISIT TO THE HIGHLAND SETTLEMENT. 133

    Early Years 138

    ALYRE RAFFENEAU DELILE. 138

    BEGINNING OF FEDERAL FORTIFICATIONS ON THE CAPE FEAR. 142

    FIRST STEAMBOAT ON CAPE FEAR RIVER. 145

    THE DISASTROUS YEAR OF 1819. 146

    OTHER EARLY FIRES. 148

    FIRST CAPE FEAR IMPROVEMENTS. 150

    STEAMBOAT LINE TO CHARLESTON. 151

    CONGRESSIONAL AID TO RIVER IMPROVEMENT. 152

    RAILROADS—THE FIRST PROJECT. 153

    THE FIRST DECLARATION OF STATE POLICY. 154

    THE ORIGIN OF THE RAILROAD PROJECT. 155

    THE WILMINGTON AND WELDON RAILROAD. 156

    THE LONGEST RAILROAD IN THE WORLD. 159

    DEVELOPMENT OF THE RAILROAD. 161

    THE COMMERCE OF WILMINGTON. 162

    WILMINGTON IN THE FORTIES. 164

    I. 164

    II. 167

    III. 170

    IV. 174

    V. 177

    VI. 179

    VII. 183

    VIII. 187

    THE PUBLIC SPIRIT OF WILMINGTON. 191

    ACTIVITIES ON THE RIVER, 1850-1860. 192

    FORGOTTEN AIDS TO THE NAVIGATION OF THE CAPE FEAR. 199

    CAPE FEAR COAL. 201

    FAYETTEVILLE ON THE CAPE FEAR. 203

    Notable Incidents 205

    VISITS OF PRESIDENTS OF THE UNITED STATES TO WILMINGTON BEFORE THE WAR. 205

    THE VISIT OF HENRY CLAY. 210

    MR. CLAY IN WILMINGTON. 211

    THE VISIT OF DANIEL WEBSTER. 214

    THE VISIT OF EDWARD EVERETT. 217

    RECEPTION OF THE REMAINS OF JOHN C. CALHOUN. 219

    DEATH OF GENERAL JAMES IVOR McKAY. 223

    GOVERNOR EDWARD B. DUDLEY. 225

    THE WILKINGS-FLANNER DUEL. 227

    Interesting Memories 232

    OLD SCHOOL DAYS IN WILMINGTON. 232

    COLONEL JAMES G. BURR. 241

    THE THALIAN ASSOCIATION. 242

    A FRAGMENTARY MEMORY OF JOHNSON HOOPER. 250

    JOSEPH JEFFERSON. 255

    IMMORTALITY. 257

    THE JENNY LIND INCIDENT. 259

    The War Between the States 261

    ON THE EVE OF SECESSION. 261

    THE RESPONSE TO LINCOLN’S CALL FOR TROOPS. 265

    WILMINGTON COMPANIES. 266

    THE MEMORIAL ASSOCIATION. 269

    A CAPTURE BEFORE THE WAR. 270

    EARLY WAR TIMES. 274

    CHANGES DURING THE WAR. 276

    THE YELLOW FEVER. 277

    WAR PRICES IN WILMINGTON. 280

    SOUTHERN RAILROADS IN WAR TIMES. 281

    MRS. ARMAND J. DEROSSET. 284

    CONFEDERATE HEROES. 287

    ROSTER OF CAPE FEAR CAMP, U. C. V. 341

    FORT CASWELL. 370

    FORT FISHER. 372

    THE LAND FACE OF FORT FISHER. 373

    THE SEA FACE OF FORT FISHER. 375

    THE FORT FISHER FIGHT. 376

    Blockade Running 378

    FINANCIAL ESTIMATES OF BLOCKADE RUNNING. 378

    THE PORT OF WILMINGTON DURING THE WAR. 380

    THE BLOCKADE. 381

    THE BLOCKADERS. 382

    THE CRUISERS. 383

    A PORT OF REFUGE. 384

    THE CHASE. 385

    CAPE FEAR PILOTS. 386

    JAMES WILLIAM CRAIG, A VETERAN PILOT. 388

    CAPTAIN DANIEL W. LEE. 396

    PILOT BURRUSS. 397

    CAPTAIN STEELE. 398

    JOHN WILLIAM ANDERSON. 399

    NARRATIVES OF DISTINGUISHED BLOCKADE RUNNERS. 401

    CAPTAIN M. P. USINA. 408

    THOMAS E. TAYLOR. 423

    RESCUE OF MADAME DEROSSET. 434

    IMPROVED SHIPS AND NOTABLE COMMANDERS. 436

    THE NORTH CAROLINA BLOCKADE RUNNER ADVANCE. 438

    OTHER VESSELS FAMOUS IN BLOCKADE RUNNING. 442

    A CLOSE CALL. 445

    THE KATE’S ADVENTURE. 447

    THE BRITISH FLAG. 449

    THE LAST DAYS OF BLOCKADE RUNNING. 450

    THE CONFEDERATE NAVY. 457

    WILMINGTON DURING THE BLOCKADE. 462

    THE FIRST AND SECOND ATTACKS UPON FORT FISHER. 469

    THE CAPTURE OF WILMINGTON. 472

    USE OF TORPEDOES IN THE CAPE FEAR RIVER DURING THE WAR. 476

    Peace Restored 478

    RESUMPTION OF CAPE FEAR COMMERCE. 478

    REPORTS ON WILMINGTON TRADE 1815-1872. 479

    THE TRADE OF WILMINGTON, 1815. 480

    THE TRADE OF WILMINGTON, 1843. 484

    THE TRADE OF WILMINGTON, 1872. 488

    CUBAN MAN-OF-WAR INCIDENT. 491

    BOARD OF COMMISSIONERS OF NAVIGATION AND PILOTAGE. 492

    CAPE FEAR AIDS TO NAVIGATION. 493

    CAPE FEAR RIVER LIGHTS. 496

    GENERAL CHARACTER OF THE COAST. 498

    UNITED STATES REVENUE-CUTTER SERVICE. 501

    CAPE FEAR LIFE-SAVING SERVICE. 503

    USE OF OIL TO PREVENT BREAKING SEAS. 505

    VISITS OF THE CRUISER RALEIGH TO THE CAPE FEAR. 507

    FEDERAL GOVERNMENT IMPROVEMENTS ON UPPER CAPE FEAR RIVER. 508

    DISASTROUS FIRES. 510

    FIRE COMPANIES. 513

    THE EARTHQUAKE OF 1886. 514

    THE VISIT OF PRESIDENT TAFT. 516

    WOODROW WILSON’S YOUTH IN WILMINGTON. 518

    SOUTHPORT ON THE CAPE FEAR. 519

    FORT CASWELL AT THE PRESENT TIME. 522

    THE PROPOSED COASTAL CANAL. 523

    MUNICIPAL GOVERNMENT IN WILMINGTON. 524

    THE REVOLUTION OF 1898. 528

    CAPE FEAR NEWSPAPERS. 530

    DR. T. B. KINGSBURY. 536

    THE WILMINGTON BAR. 538

    HONORABLE GEORGE DAVIS, CONFEDERATE STATES ATTORNEY GENERAL. 539

    GEORGE DAVIS—AN APPRECIATION. 542

    THE GEORGE DAVIS MONUMENT. 544

    ALFRED MOORE WADDELL—AUTHOR 546

    THE BETTER LAND. 547

    BISHOP ROBERT STRANGE. 548

    NORTH CAROLINA SOCIETY OF COLONIAL DAMES OF AMERICA. 550

    PLACES OF HISTORIC INTEREST IN NORTH CAROLINA RELATING TO THE COLONIAL PERIOD WHICH ARE STILL UNMARKED. 555

    EXPLORATION AND SETTLEMENT. 556

    COLONIAL FORTS. 556

    BATTLE GROUNDS. 556

    CHURCHES AND SCHOOLS. 557

    THE REGULATION. 557

    COLONIAL HOUSES AND LOCALITIES OF NOTE. 557

    BURIAL PLACES. 558

    LUOLA MURCHISON SPRUNT—AN APPRECIATION. 560

    THE BOYS’ BRIGADE. 562

    PUBLIC BUILDINGS IN WILMINGTON. 565

    THE NEW CUSTOM HOUSE. 566

    JAMES WALKER MEMORIAL HOSPITAL. 569

    WILMINGTON CHURCHES. 573

    ST. JAMES’S PARISH. 575

    ST. JOHN’S EPISCOPAL CHURCH. 578

    CHURCH OF THE GOOD SHEPHERD. 580

    FIRST PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH. 582

    ST. ANDREW’S PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH. 584

    A LAYMAN’S RECOLLECTIONS. 586

    IMMANUEL PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH. 590

    OTHER PRESBYTERIAN CHURCHES IN NEW HANOVER COUNTY. 591

    GRACE METHODIST EPISCOPAL CHURCH. 593

    FIFTH AVENUE METHODIST EPISCOPAL CHURCH. 594

    BLADEN STREET METHODIST EPISCOPAL CHURCH. 595

    TRINITY METHODIST EPISCOPAL CHURCH. 595

    EARLY METHODISM IN WILMINGTON. 595

    THE FIRST BAPTIST CHURCH. 597

    CALVARY BAPTIST CHURCH. 599

    SOUTHSIDE BAPTIST CHURCH. 600

    ST. PAUL’S LUTHERAN CHURCH. 601

    ST. MATTHEW’S LUTHERAN CHURCH. 602

    ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH. 602

    TEMPLE OF ISRAEL. 604

    CHESTNUT STREET PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH. 605

    WILMINGTON SCHOOLS. 606

    WILMINGTON ACADEMY, 1812. 607

    WILMINGTON ACADEMY. 607

    HALSLEY’S SCHOOL, 1836. 607

    CORBIN’S SCHOOL, 1836. 607

    RYCKMAN’S SCHOOL, 1836. 608

    STANLIFT’S WRITING SCHOOL, 1836. 608

    SPENCER’S ACADEMY, 1836, ACADEMICK SCHOOL. 609

    CROOK’S GRAMMAR SCHOOL, 1837. 609

    MULOCK’S ENGLISH SCHOOL, 1838. 610

    SIMPSON’S SCHOOL, 1839. 610

    LLOYD AND BAILEY’S FEMALE SCHOOL, 1840. 610

    REPITON’S SCHOOL, 1840. 610

    OTHER CAPE FEAR PRIVATE SCHOOLS. 612

    PUBLIC EDUCATION IN WILMINGTON. 615

    PUBLIC SCHOOLS. 615

    DECADE OF 1850 TO 1860. 616

    THE UNION FREE SCHOOL. 616

    DECADE 1870-1880—THE WILMINGTON PUBLIC SCHOOL SYSTEM. 617

    DECADE OF 1880-1890-ORIGIN AND DEVELOPMENT OF THE WILMINGTON PUBLIC SCHOOL SYSTEM. 619

    DECADE 1890-1900—GROWTH OF THE HIGH-SCHOOL IDEA. 620

    1900-1914. 621

    LOYALTY OF THE CAPE FEAR PEOPLE TO THE STATE UNIVERSITY. 622

    THE ATLANTIC COAST LINE RAILROAD. 625

    THE SEABOARD AIR LINE RAILROAD. 628

    HUGH MACRAE’S ACTIVITIES. 631

    THE WATER POWER COMPANY. 632

    THE RIVER COUNTIES. 634

    THE GROWTH OF WILMINGTON. 638

    LOOKING FORWARD. 640

    CHRONICLES OF THE CAPE FEAR RIVER

    1660—1916

    BY

    JAMES SPRUNT

    img2.png

    DEDICATION

    TO

    SAMUEL A’COURT ASHE

    A LOYAL AND DEVOTED

    SON OF THE CAPE FEAR

    IN RECOGNITION OF HIS EMINENT SERVICE TO OUR COMMONWEALTH

    AND TO LITERATURE IN HIS ADMIRABLE HISTORY

    OF NORTH CAROLINA A WORK OF SUCH PARTICULAR

    MERIT AS TO BRING CREDIT TO HIS

    BIRTHPLACE AND TO ADD TO THE

    HIGH FAME OF

    THE CAPE FEAR PEOPLE

    Preface

    The reception of the Cape Fear Chronicles, not only by friends of the author but by the general reader, and in particular by historical scholars, has been most unusual. The general expression of gratification at its publication and the generous recognition of its value are emphatic assurances that Mr. Sprunt’s endeavor to preserve the memories of the Cape Fear has been appreciated beyond his expectations. Numerous and insistent have been the requests for a second edition, to which he has finally yielded, and in doing so he has embodied much additional matter of interest and importance equal to that contained in the first edition. The incorporation of this new matter has necessitated some changes in the old, most of which have been merely verbal, but in a few instances more important changes have been made to secure greater uniformity and conform to more recent information concerning certain local traditions and memories. No trouble has been spared in either edition to secure the greatest exactitude in details, and especially has this been true of the edition now presented.

    Mr. Sprunt has long been interested in historical literature, and through his liberality many publications of interest and value have in recent years been made. The fund he placed at the disposal of the University of North Carolina has enabled that institution to publish a series of historical monographs of peculiar interest, the one published in 1903 being of particular importance to Wilmington and the Cape Fear people. And in addition to being a liberal promoter of the writings of others, his personal output in the field of historical literature has been a distinctive and valuable contribution. His research has been extensive and remarkably successful; especially has he been indefatigable in rescuing from oblivion the history of the Cape Fear and clothing in his own inimitable style the romantic tales and stirring deeds that belong to the development of that section of North Carolina.

    In recognition of his service to the State in constructive citizenship and in his writings and in appreciation of his personal excellence and merit, the University of North Carolina last year conferred upon Mr. Sprunt the degree of doctor of laws. And more recently the old historic College of William andMary, in Virginia, chartered in 1693, unanimously elected him a member, causa honoris, of the Alpha Chapter of the Phi Beta Kappa Society of that college. This is the honor literary society of America, organized at William and Mary in 1776, and in the selection of those invited to become members the greatest care is exercised, membership being equivalent to an honorary degree conferred by any of our colleges and giving the recipient special distinction.

    S. A. ASHE.

    November 10, 1916.

    Foreword

    From early youth I have loved the Cape Fear River, the ships and the sailors which it bears upon its bosom. As a boy I delighted to wander along the wharves where the sailing ships were moored with their graceful spars and rigging in relief against the sky-line, with men aloft whose uncouth cries and unknown tongues inspired me with a longing for the sea, which I afterwards followed, and for the far-away countries whence they had come.

    In later years, I heard the stories of the old-time Cape Fear gentlemen, whose memories I revere, and I treasured those annals of our brave and generous people; I knew all the pilots of the Cape Fear, whose record of brave deeds and unswerving loyally to the Confederacy, under great trial and temptation, and whose steadfast industry in their dangerous calling are worthy of all praise; and now, actuated by an earnest desire to render a public service after many years’ contact with its men and affairs, I have essayed to write in the following pages a concise narrative of the sources and tributary streams of the Cape Fear River, the origin of its name, the development of its commerce, and the artificial aids to its navigation, with a few historic incidents of its tidewater region.

    The limited scope of this undertaking does not reach beyond the mere outlines of its romantic, dramatic history, of which much has been ably written by George Davis, Alfred Moore Waddell, Samuel A’Court Ashe, and other historians of the Cape Fear.

    I have often looked from my window upon the historic river and seen the white sails glistening in the morning light, and when the evening shadows deepened I have gazed upon the wide expanse resplendent with the glory of the stars and have heard the sailors in the bay singing Larboard watch, ahoy! while the anchor lights of half a hundred ships were twinkling at their moorings, and it was something to remember in after years.

    Memory lingers with a certain endearment upon the daily activities in the harbor in that far-gone day, when the course of life was more attuned to the placid flow of the river than in this rushing, jarring time. No more is heard the long-drawn cry of the stevedore, Go ahead, horse and Back down lively. No more do we hear the song of the chanty man rise shrill and clear to the accompaniment of chuckling blocks and creaking yards, nor the hearty, deep tones of the chorus as the old-time sailor men tramped round the windlass from wharf to wharf, singing:

    "Oh, blow, ye winds, I long to hear you,

    Blow, bullies, blow!

    Oh, blow today and blow tomorrow,

    Blow, my bully boys, blow!

    "Oh, blow today and blow tomorrow,

    Blow, bullies, blow!

    Oh, blow away all care and sorrow,

    Blow, my bully boys, blow!"

    A tremulous echo is all that is left of these old-time refrains, but some of our older citizens will recall these plaintive though senseless ditties, also the John Kooner songs, which have enlivened many a dull hour in the old seaport of the Cape Fear.

    Many years ago, when the arched courthouse stood at the foot of Market Street, a party of prominent citizens were discussing under its roof the events of the day in the soft light of a beautiful full moon, and while they talked they heard the tramp of twenty sailor men from a near-by French ship moored at Market Dock; and then in clear and exquisite tones the sailors sang with all the enthusiasm it inspired the Marseillaise battle hymn. Colonel Burr, who heard them, told me many years after that it was one of the most delightful memories of a lifetime.

    But now the distracting hammering against rusting steel plates, the clanking of chains against the steamship’s sides, and the raucous racket of the steam donkey betoken a new era in the harbor of Wilmington; yet the silent river flows on with the silent years as when Vassall sent the first settlers, or as when Flora Macdonald sailed past the town to the restful haven of Cross Creek; and the Dram Tree still stands to warn the outgoing mariner that his voyage has begun and to welcome the incoming storm-tossed sailor to the quiet harbor beyond.

    I have obtained the data of the commercial development of the river largely from official sources or reliable records, and I have copied verbatim, in some technical detail, the generous responses to my inquiries by Maj. H. W. Stickle, Corps of Engineers, U.S.A.; Capt. C. S. Ridley, assistant engineer, U.S.A.; Mr. R. C. Merritt, assistant engineer; Mr. Joseph Hyde Pratt, State geologist; Dr. Joseph A. Holmes, director Bureau of Mines; Capt. G. L. Carden, commanding U.S. revenue cutter Seminole; Mr. H. D. King, inspector lights and lighthouses, Sixth District, and Hon. S. I. Kimball, general superintendent of the Life Saving Service, now embraced in the Coast Guard, to each of whom I make this grateful acknowledgment.

    This book is intimately associated with two good friends, Capt. Samuel A’Court Ashe and Miss Rosa Pendleton Chiles, to whom I am especially indebted for their invaluable aid, and sympathy, and advice; for without their generous assistance this work might not have been accomplished.

    Exploration and Settlement

    ORIGIN OF THE NAME CAPE FEAR.

    BY GEORGE DAVIS.

    The origin of the name Cape Fear and its confusion in some of our early maps with Cape Fair led, many years ago, to a discussion by the Historical and Scientific Society of Wilmington, of which this writer was the secretary. A prominent Wilmingtonian of his day, Mr. Henry Nutt, to whose indefatigable, intelligent efforts and public spirit the closure of New Inlet was largely due, stoutly maintained in a forceful address before that body that the name was originally Fair and not Fear.

    Mr. George Davis subsequently took the opposite view in his valuable contribution entitled An Episode in Cape Fear History, published in the South Atlantic Magazine, January, 1879, which I here reprint under the above title.

    Is it Cape Fair? Or Cape Fear? Adjective or noun? Under which king, Bezonian? This old familiar name under which our noble river rolls its waters to the sea, is it the true prince of the ancient line, or a base pretender, usurping the seat of the rightful heir, and, after the fashion of usurpers, giving us terror for beauty, storm for sunshine?

    There are some among our most intelligent citizens who maintain that the true name was, and ought to be now, Cape Fair; and that it was originally so given because the first adventurers, seeing with the eye of enthusiasm, found everything here to be fair, attractive, and charming. And it has even been said very lately that it was never called by its present name until after 1750, and never officially until 1780. (Address of H. Nutt before H. and S. Society.) Unfortunately, in the mists which envelop some portions of our early history, it is sometimes very difficult to guard against being betrayed into erroneous conjectures by what appear to be very plausible reasons; and the materials for accurate investigation are not of easy access. It is not surprising, therefore, that this opinion should have existed for some time, not generally, but to a limited extent. Beyond all doubt it is erroneous, and the proofs are conclusive that our people have been right in finally rejecting the Beautiful theory, and accepting the Fearful. I know of no authority for this opinion except the occasional spelling of the word. The strength of the argument seems to be this: CaptainHilton was sent in 1663 for the purpose of examining the country; he did examine it, reported in glowing terms as to its beauty and attractiveness, and throughout his report spelled the name Fair. I answer, Very true. But three years later, in1666,Robert Home published his Brief Description of Carolina, under the eye, and no doubt by the procurement, of the Proprietors; he describes the country in much more glowing terms of praise than Hilton did, but spells the name, throughout, Fear. And where are we then? And later still, in 1711, a high authority, Christopher Gale, chief justice of North Carolina, like a prudent politician who has not made up his mind which party to join, spells it neither Fair nor Fear, but Fare. (2 Hawks, 301.) That the name in early times was not infrequently spelt Fair is unquestionable. Besides Hilton’s report, it is so given in the Letter of the English Adventurers to the Proprietors, 1663; in the Instructions of the Proprietors to Governor Yeamans, 1665; in Lawson’s history and map, 1709; and on Wimble’s map, 1738. And perhaps other instances may be found.

    But all these, if they stood alone and unopposed, could hardly form the basis of any solid argument. For all who are accustomed to examine historical documents will know too well how widely independent of all law, if there was any law, our ancestors were in their spelling, especially of proper names. Pen in hand, they were accustomed to dare every vagary, and no amount of heroic spelling ever appalled them.

    Some examples will be instructive in our present investigation. Take the great name of him who was wholly gentleman, wholly soldier, who, falling under the displeasure of a scoundrel King and languishing for twelve long years under sentence of ignominious death, sent forth through his prison bars such melodious notes that the very King’s son cried out, No monarch in Christendom but my father would keep such a bird in a cage; who, inexhaustible in ideas as in exploits, after having brought a new world to light, wrote the history of the old in a prison, and then died, because God had made him too great for his fellows—that name which to North Carolina ears rings down through the ages like a glorious chime of bells—the name of our great Sir Walter. We know that it was spelt three different ways, Raleigh, Ralegh, and Rawlegh.

    And Sir Walter’s heroic kinsman, that grand old sea-king who fought his single ship for fifteen straight hours against fifteen Spaniards, one after another, muzzle to muzzle, and then yielded up his soul to God in that cheerful temper wherewith men go to a banquet: Here die I, Richard Greenville, and with a joyful and quiet mind, having ended my life like a true soldier that has fought for his country, Queen, religion, and honor. He was indifferently Greenville, Grenville, and Granville.

    And take another of these sea-kings of old who sailed to America in the early days—that brilliant, restless, daring spirit who crowded into a few brief years enough of wild adventure and excitement to season a long life, and then died little more than a boy—he was indifferently Cavendish and Candish.

    Who, without assistance, could recognize Bermuda in the still vexed Bermoothes of Shakespeare? And Horne’s pamphlets, of which I have spoken, could only improve it into Barmoodoes.

    Coming down to the very time of which we are speaking, one of the first acts of the Lords Proprietors after receiving their magnificent grant was to publish the important document to which I have alluded, the Declaration and Proposals to all who will plant in Carolina. It is signed by some of the most famous names in English history—George, Duke of Albemarle, the prime mover in bringing about the restoration of the King; Edward, Earl of Clarendon, Lord High Chancellor, and grandfather of two English queens, but far more famous as the author of that wonderful book, the History of the Great Rebellion; Anthony, Earl of Shaftesbury, Lord High Chancellor and one of the greatest parliamentary leaders that England ever produced, but far greater as the author of that second charter of Anglo-Saxon liberties, the Habeas Corpus Act. This very gifted and very famous Earl of Shaftesbury, who, I am sorry to say, was more distinguished for brilliant talents than for virtuous principles, besides being one of the Proprietors had an additional claim to our remembrance which has not been generally known. At a meeting of the Proprietors held at the Cockpit the 21st of October, 1669 (Rivers, 346), he was elected the first chief justice of Carolina. As he never visited America I presume his office was in a great degree purely honorary. But he certainly executed its functions to the extent at least of its official patronage. For the record has been preserved which shows that on the 10th of June, 1675, by virtue of that office, he appointed Andrew Percival to be register of Berkeley Precinct.He had not then been raised to the peerage, but was only Sir Anthony Ashley Cooper. He gave his two family names to the rivers at Charleston, and then took himself the title of Shaftesbury.

    Such were some of the signers of this pamphlet. Surely these men knew. Surely they would give us some unimpeachable English. Well, we have an exact copy of the pamphlet and I give you my word that, according to our notions, the spelling of it is enough to put the whole school of lexicographers in a madhouse. Instance the following: Clarending,Northine,plantacon,proposealls,grannte,ingaige,groathe, etc., etc. These examples, which might be indefinitely multiplied, are sufficient to show that he is a bold speculator who will venture to build an opinion on the spelling of a name.

    But the opposing proofs are quite conclusive, and I do not scruple to promise that for every authentic map or document, prior to the year 1700, in which the name is written Fair, I will point out at least two in which it is written as at present. An examination of some of the most important of them will remove all doubt from the subject.

    In DeBry’s map of Lane’s expedition, 1585, no name is given to the cape, but we find it distinctly laid down, and indicated by two Latin words which are very significant, promontorium tremendum. And in the narrative of Sir Richard Greenville’s first expedition, in the same year, we find the very first recorded mention of the name, which ought to be sufficient of itself to fix its certainty for all time. For we read there, for the month of June, 1585, this entry: The 23rd we were in great danger of a wreck on a breach called the Cape of Fear.

    And two years later, in the narrative of the first voyage under White, we are told in July, 1587, that had not Captain Stafford been more careful in looking out than our Simon Fernando, we had been all cast away upon the breach called the Cape of Fear.

    And here we have another orthographic problem to solve. Both of these old worthies speak of the Cape of Fear as being not a beach, but a breach; and, on the strength of that, possibly some severe precision may hereafter start the theory, and prove it too, that the cape was no cape at all, but only a breach or channel through the Frying Pan Shoals.

    Coming down near a hundred years to the time of the first settlements, we find the original spelling preserved in the Letter of the Proprietors to Sir William Berkeley, 1663; in the Proposals of the Proprietors already mentioned, 1663; in Home’s Brief Description of Carolina and on the accompanying map, 1666; in the map styled A New Description of Carolina, 1671; in the Instructions of the Proprietors to the Governor and Council of Carolina, 1683, and in a great many others.

    These proofs would seem to leave nothing wanting to a clear demonstration of the real name. But there is something yet to be added. They show that during the same period of time the name was spelt both ways indifferently, not only by different persons, but the same persons, who had peculiar means of knowing the truth. It is clear, therefore, that the two modes were not expressive of two different ideas, but only different forms of expressing the same idea. What then was the true idea of the name—its raison d’être?

    In pursuing that inquiry our attention must be directed to the cape alone, and not to the river. For, as we have seen, the cape bore its name for near a hundred years during which the river was nameless, if not unknown. And, when brought into notice afterwards, the river bore at first a different name, and only after some time glided into the name of the cape. Thus, in the Letter of the Proprietors to Sir William Berkeley, 8th of September, 1663, after directing him to procure a small vessel to explore the sounds, they say, And whilst they are aboard they may look into Charles River a very little to the Southward of Cape Fear. And so in the Proposals of the Proprietors, 15th of August, 1663, If the first colony will settle on Charles River, near Cape Fear, etc., etc., and in Horne’s map, 1666, the name is Charles River.

    Looking then to the cape for the idea and reason of its name, we find that it is the southernmost point of Smith’s Island—a naked, bleak elbow of sand, jutting far out into the ocean. Immediately in its front are the Frying Pan Shoals, pushing out still farther, twenty miles, to sea. Together they stand for warning and for woe; and together they catch the long majestic roll of the Atlantic as it sweeps through a thousand miles of grandeur and power from the Arctic towards the Gulf. It is the playground of billows and tempests, the kingdom of silence and awe, disturbed by no sound save the sea gull’s shriek and the breakers’ roar. Its whole aspect is suggestive, not of repose and beauty, but of desolation and terror. Imagination can not adorn it. Romance can not hallow it. Local pride can not soften it.There it stands today, bleak, and threatening, and pitiless, as it stood three hundred years ago, when Greenville and White came nigh unto death upon its sands. And there it will stand, bleak, and threatening, and pitiless, until the earth and the sea shall give up their dead. And, as its nature, so its name, is now, always has been, and always will be, the Cape of Fear.

    THE CAPE FEAR RIVER AND ITS TRIBUTARIES.

    The Cape Fear River, said to have been known to the Indian aborigines as Sapona, later to the explorers and to the promoters in England as the Charles River, and the Clarendon River, is formed by the junction of the Haw and the Deep Rivers, in Chatham County, North Carolina. From their confluence, which is about 173 miles by river above Wilmington, it flows in a south-easterly direction through Harnett, Cumberland, and Bladen Counties, and between Brunswick and New Hanover to the sea. The Haw River rises in Rockingham and Guilford Counties and flows in a south-easterly direction through Alamance, Orange, and Chatham Counties to its junction with the Deep River, a distance of about 80 miles, measured along its general course. The Deep River is of about the same length as the Haw. It rises in Guilford County and flows through Randolph and Moore Counties, and joins the Haw in Chatham.

    The Deep River drains about 1,400 square miles. Its tributaries are only small creeks, the most important being Rocky River. The Haw River drains about 1,800 square miles, and its tributaries are also small, but are larger than those of the Deep River. The principal ones, descending from the headwaters, are Reedy Fork, Alamance Creek, Cane Creek, and New Hope River.

    Between the junction of the Deep and the Haw Rivers and Fayetteville, a distance of about 58 miles, the most important tributaries which join the Cape Fear are Upper Little River, from the west, 32 miles long; and Lower Little River, from the west, 45 miles long. There are other small creeks, the most important being Carver’s Creek and Blount’s Creek.

    Between Wilmington and Fayetteville the most important tributary is Black River, which enters from the east about 15 miles above Wilmington and has a drainage basin of about 1,430 square miles. There are several creeks which enterbelow Fayetteville, the principal one being Rockfish Creek, which enters 10 miles below Fayetteville.

    The entire drainage basin above Fayetteville covers an area of 4,493 square miles, and the total drainage area of the Cape Fear and all its tributaries is about 8,400 square miles.

    At Wilmington the Cape Fear River proper is joined by the Northeast Cape Fear River. Their combined average discharge at Wilmington for the year is about 14,000 feet a second. Floods in their tributaries have but little effect on the water level at Wilmington. The lower river is tidal, and the effects of tidal variations are felt about 40 miles above the city on both branches.

    The city of Wilmington is on the east side of the river, opposite the junction of the two branches, and nearly all wharves, mills, and terminals are situated on the same side. The width of the river at Wilmington is 500 to 1,000 feet. Four miles below, it becomes 1½ miles wide, and is of the nature of a tidal estuary, varying in width as it flows to the sea from 1 to 3 miles. The distance from Wilmington to the ocean is 30 miles.

    IMPROVEMENTS BELOW WILMINGTON.

    The improvement of the river was begun by the State of North Carolina between Wilmington and Big Island by embankments, jetties, and dredging in 1822, and continued until 1829, when the Federal Government undertook the work of improvement and continued it to 1839. Work was resumed in 1847 and continued up to the War between the States. It was again resumed in 1870 and has been carried on continuously since that date.

    A report of the Committee on Bar and River Improvements to the Chamber of Commerce, January 15, 1872, contains the following interesting information:

    "The earliest reliable information we have of the Cape Fear River, its entrance and harbor, is to be found in a map by Edward Moseley, in 1733, and another by James Wimble, in 1738. Both of these maps, although apparently imperfect, nevertheless represent the harbor as capacious, of good anchorage, well landlocked, easy of access, and with four fathoms water upon the bar (supposed at mean low tide). About this draught of water was carried by a bold and direct channel on the west side of Big Island{1} to the town of Wilmington.

    "The next we hear of the Cape Fear River is through Wheeler’s History of North Carolina (extracted from the London Magazine), giving an account of the most violent equinoctial storm which had ever occurred along the coast, forcing open an entrance into the river at a point known as the ‘Haul-over,’ now known as the New Inlet. This storm commenced on the 20th of September, 1761, and lasted four days.

    "This inlet, from long neglect, has become formidable, detracting a large portion of the river water from its legitimate outlet, to the great detriment of the river and lower harbor.

    "In 1775, a map of the Cape Fear River, more accurate in its details than the two first alluded to, was published in London, which laid down the New Inlet, but did not materially vary the harbor, outlet, or draught of water upon the bar, or the channel of the river up to the town of Wilmington.

    "At a meeting of the Safety Committee of Wilmington, held on the 20th of November, 1775, John Ancrum presiding, the following preamble and resolutions were passed:

    "‘The committee, taking into consideration the damage with which the inhabitants of the Cape Fear River are threatened by the King’s ships now in the harbor, and the open and avowed contempt and violation of justice in the conduct of Governor Martin, who, with the assistance of said ships, is endeavoring to carry off the artillery, the property of this province, and the gift of his late Majesty of blessed memory, for our protection from foreign invasion, have

    "‘Resolved, That Messrs. John Forster, William Wilkinson, and John Slingsby, or any one of them, be empowered to procure necessary vessels, boats, and chains, to sink in such part of the channel as they or any of them may think proper, to agree for the purchase of such boats and other materials as may be wanted, and to have them valued, that the owners may be reimbursed by the public. And it is further ordered, that the said John Forster & Co. do consult the committee of Brunswick on this measure and request their concurrence.’

    "A knowledge of the men of that period, with the boisterous circumstances which surrounded them, is sufficient evidence that this order was implicitly obeyed and effectually executed, no report of their action being required or expected.

    "Tradition assures us that these obstacles were placed across the channel at Big Island. We therefore feel justified in saying that the channel, as laid down by all previous maps, was, at that time and place, obstructed agreeably to the order, as subsequent events would seem to imply. From time to time, logs, stumps, and other drift matter brought down by freshets lodged against the obstructions, backing up nearly to the narrows and forming what is known as the flats or shoal of logs, which, as it increased, gradually forced the water through an opening on the west side of Big Island, and in course of time scoured out a channel sufficient to accommodate the commerce of the port, and so remained until the year 1826.

    In the year 1797-8, a survey and map of the Cape Fear River, its harbors and outlets, was made by Joshua Potts. At this time, thirty-seven years after the breaking out of New Inlet, we find very little alteration in the harbor or outlet—the bar representing 20 feet of water (supposed at mean low tide), while the channels of the river up to Wilmington had undergone material change, and very much depreciated.

    A report of the same committee, made four years earlier than the one just quoted, refers to the Potts survey, and says:

    Older charts than this exhibit a greater draught of water, particulars of which, however, are not accurately remembered by your committee. Many old citizens now living remember to have seen at our wharves vessels drawing 15 to 18 feet of water. But about the year 1820, as the depth of water increased on New Inlet, in like proportion it diminished on the Main Bar, maintaining upon both the aggregate of about 25 feet. The late Capt. Thomas N. Gautier, who was a merchant of this place during the period of time included between the years 1790 and 1810, told one of your committee that during that period, among many others, he had loaded one ship to 30 feet draught, which proceeded down the river to sea, on her voyage to London, without difficulty or interruption. These facts in the history of the past are conclusive evidence, in the minds of your committee, that the true and real cause of the present alarming condition of the navigation of our bars and river is to be found in the existence of the New Inlet, and that alone.

    A report of Alexander Strauss to the mayor and aldermen of Wilmington, under date of March 6, 1870, says:

    The bar in the Old Ship Channel has shoaled 2½ feet in the last five years, and therefore any procrastination in the work will be injurious to our commerce, as I believe it can be shown that year by year since 1840 the obstruction has increased, and unless speedy action is taken it will result in the total destruction of our harbor. I base my opinion on data gained from different surveys made from the year 1733 to 1869. On the survey of 1733, a depth of 21 feet is shown in the Old Ship Channel at mean low water, and in 1869 only 5½ can be found in the same channel.

    The condition of the river prior to the opening of New Inlet (which occurred during an equinoctial storm in 1761) is rather uncertain, but old maps indicate that there was a low-water depth of 14 feet across the bar at the mouth, the least depth between Wilmington and the mouth being 7½ feet. There is also some uncertainty as to the conditions in 1829, when the improvement was undertaken by the United States, but the most reliable information is that there was then about 7 to 7½ feet at low water in the river, about 9 feet in Bald Head Channel, 9 feet in Rip Channel, and 10 feet at New Inlet. Work on the bar was begun in 1853, at which time the bar depths at low water were 7½ feet in Bald Head Channel, 7 feet in Rip Channel, and 8 feet at New Inlet, the governing low-water depth in the river having been increased to 9 feet.

    The original project of 1827 was to deepen by jetties the channel through the shoals in the 8 miles next below Wilmington. This project resulted in a gain of 2 feet available depth. The project of 1853 was to straighten and deepen the bar channel by dredging, jettying, diverting the flow from the New Inlet, and closing breaches in Zeke’s Island. This project was incomplete when the War between the States began. Up to that time, $363,228.92 had been spent on the improvement. The work done during this period was measurably successful. The report of the commission of 1858 referring to it says:

    The works recommended by the board of 1853 were, in the opinion of the commission, entirely efficient, so far as they were carried out, having, as is shown by the Coast-Survey maps, caused an increase in the depth of Oak Island Channel of between one and two feet.

    After the war the first project was that of 1870, to deepen the bar channel by closing breaches between Smith’s and Zeke’s Islands, with the ultimate closure of New Inlet in view. The project of 1873 included that of 1870 and in addition the dredging of the bar channel and the closing of New Inlet. This work was in charge of Gen. J. H. Simpson, U.S.A., who was succeeded in the management of it by Col. William P. Craighill. The main construction was under Maj. Walter Griswold, assistant engineer, whose services were able and highly acceptable. Mention should be made also of Henry Nutt, Esq., chairman of the Committee on Bar and River Improvements of the Chamber of Commerce, whose activities greatly advanced the work. The Wilmington Journal of March 20, 1872, contains the following acknowledgment of his services:

    We are unwilling to give expression to the bright hopes of the future we anticipate for our goodly old town. But whether that success be attained in full or scant measure, the name of Henry Nutt will, and ought to be, held in grateful remembrance by all our people to the last generation, as the earnest, persistent, and enthusiastic friend of this great work.

    The project of 1874 was to obtain by dredging a channel 100 feet wide and 12 feet deep at low water up to Wilmington. The project of 1881 was to obtain by dredging a channel 270 feet wide and 16 feet deep at low water up to Wilmington. These projects had been practically completed in 1889. At that time the expenditure since the war amounted to $2,102,271.93.

    The project adopted September 19, 1890, was to obtain a mean low-water depth of 20 feet and a width of 270 feet from Wilmington to the ocean. This project has been modified several times.

    For the five years ending June 30, 1915, there was expended for river improvements $1,440,844.02, and the commerce on the Cape Fear River at and below Wilmington averaged 929,-336 tons, with an average valuation of $50,978,671.06 for the five calendar years. At the close of the year ending June 30, 1915, there had been a total expenditure of $5,974,868.48. The project below Wilmington under execution was adopted in the River and Harbor Act approved July 25, 1912, and provides for a channel depth of 26 feet at mean low water, with a width of 300 feet, increasing at the entrance and curves in the river and widening to 400 feet across the bar. The project is eighty per cent completed, the depth having been secured throughout the entire distance, additional work being required only to widen the channel where the width is deficient. On June 30, 1915, a mean low-water channel 26 feet deep and from 280 to 400 feet wide existed on the ocean bar and 26 feet deep and 300 feet wide in the river channels, excepting at Snow’s Marsh Channel, where the 26-foot channel was from 150 to 270 feet wide.

    The various projects adopted by the Federal Government involved the closing of New Inlet and the construction of a defensive dike from Zeke’s Island, on the south side of NewInlet, to Smith’s Island. The dam closing New Inlet was constructed between 1875 and 1881 and is 5,300 feet long. It is built of stone, its first cost being $540,237.11. It was badly damaged by a storm in 1906, and the cost of its restoration and of other minor repairs made since its completion was $103,044.75, making its total cost to date $643,281.86. Swash Defense Dam, south of New Inlet, was constructed between 1883 and 1889 and is 12,800 feet long. It is also built of stone, the first cost being $225,965. The cost of restoring this dam after the storm of 1906, including other repairs made since its completion, was $170,109.53, making the total cost to date $396,074.53. With the exception of the construction of these two dams, the results have been accomplished almost wholly by dredging.

    It is interesting to note in this connection that the total expenditures of the Federal Government upon Charleston Harbor to June 30, 1915, amounted to $5,084,771.90, and the total expenditures on Cape Fear River at and below Wilmington to the same date was $5,985,990.01.

    NORTHEAST CAPE FEAR RIVER.

    Northeast Cape Fear River has a total length of 130 miles (70 miles in a straight line) and has been under improvement since 1890, the project including the clearing of the natural channel for small steamers to Hallsville, 88 miles above its mouth, and for pole boats to Kornegay’s Bridge, 103 miles above its mouth.

    The work has consisted in removing snags and other incidental obstructions from the channel and leaning trees from the banks. For several years past, work has been for the purpose of maintenance only. To June 30, 1913, there had been spent on this stream for improvement and maintenance $33,738.86. At present 8 feet can be carried to Rocky Point Landing, 35 miles from the mouth, 5 feet to Smith’s Bridge, 52 miles up, and 3 feet to Croom’s Bridge, 8 miles further, at all stages. Above that point it is only navigable during freshets.

    BLACK RIVER.

    This stream has been under improvement since 1887. The original project of 1885 included clearing the natural channel and banks to Lisbon and cutting off a few points at bends,modified in 1893, and omitting the part above Clear Run, 66 miles above the mouth. This was completed in 1895. Since that time it has been under maintenance. The total amount expended to June 30, 1913, for improvement and maintenance was $32,877.26. The work has consisted in removing obstructions from the channel and leaning trees from the banks, and in a small amount of dredging.

    At present a depth of 5 feet can be carried to Point Caswell at low stages, above which point there is but little navigation excepting during freshet stages.

    TOWN CREEK.

    Town Creek is a tributary to Cape Fear River, entering it from the west about 7½ miles below Wilmington. It is not now under improvement, but was placed under improvement in 1881, the project being to obtain 4-foot navigation at low water by removing obstructions from the mouth to Saw-Pit Landing, 20 miles above. After spending $1,000, this project was abandoned. An appropriation of $8,500 was made in 1899 to be expended in obtaining a mean low-water channel 5 feet deep and 40 feet wide to Russell’s Landing, 19¾ miles above the mouth, and to clear the creek to Rock’s Landing, about 4 miles farther up. The 5-foot channel was obtained to Russell’s Landing by dredging, and snags were removed from the channel for the next mile above, when the funds were exhausted, and no further appropriation has been made.

    BRUNSWICK RIVER.

    About four miles above Wilmington, the Cape Fear River divides, the western branch forming Brunswick River. It flows in a southerly direction and again enters the Cape Fear River about four miles below Wilmington.

    This river has never been under improvement, but the River and Harbor Act of June 13, 1902, provides for an expenditure not exceeding $1,000 of the money appropriated for the improvement of Cape Fear River, at and below Wilmington, in removing obstructions at the lower mouth of Brunswick River. Obstructions were removed from a width of 100 feet during 1903 at a cost of $519, securing a channel at its mouth 100 feet wide and 7 feet deep.{2}

    According to the recitals in the oldest deeds for lands on Eagles’ Island and in its vicinity on either side, the Northeast and the Northwest branches of the Cape Fear River come together at the southern point of that island. What is now called Brunswick River, on the west side of the island, was then the main River; and Wilmington was on the Northeast branch, and not on the main stream of the Cape Fear. That portion of the river which runs from the Northeast branch by Point Peter, or Negrohead Point, as it is called, to the Northwest branch at the head of Eagles’ Island, is called in the old deeds and statutes of the State the Thoroughfare, and sometimes the Cut-through from one branch to the other; and the land granted to John Maultsby, on which a part of Wilmington is situated, is described as lying opposite to the mouth of the Thoroughfare. At another time, what is now known as Brunswick River was called Clarendon River.

    THE CAPE FEAR INDIANS.

    The tribal identity of the Cape Fear Indians has never been clearly established. We find Indian mounds, or tumuli, along the river and coast and in the midland counties, and we are told that the head waters of the Cape Fear River were known to our aborigines as Sapona, a tribal name also known farther north, and that King Roger Moore exterminated these Indians at Big Sugar Loaf after they had raided Orton; but there is nothing in the mounds, where hundreds of skeletons are found, nor in the pottery and rude implements discovered therein, to identify the tribe or prove the comparatively unsupported statements which we have hitherto accepted as facts. Capt. S. A. Ashe says: The Cape Fear Indians along the coast were Southern. The Saponas who resided higher up were probably Northern. They were not exterminated by ‘King’ Roger; in fact, in 1790 there were still some in Granville, and a considerable number joined the Tuscaroras on the Tuscarora Reservation on the Roanoke. They were both Northern, probably, otherwise the Saponas would not have been welcome.

    There is reason to believe the tradition, generally known to our older inhabitants, that the Indians from the back country came regularly in the early springtime to the coast of the Cape Fear for the seawater fish and oysters which were abundant, and that their preparation for these feasts included the copious drinking of a strong decoction of yopon leaves, which produced free vomiting and purgation, before they gorged themselves to repletion with the fish and oysters.

    The beautiful evergreen leaf and brilliant red berries of the yopon still abound along the river banks near the remains of the Indian camps. The leaves were extensively used as a substitute for tea, which was unobtainable during our four years’ war, and the tea made from them was refreshing and tonic in its effects.

    Dr. Francis P. Venable says: "It belongs to the Ilex, or holly genus. My first analysis was on a small sample from New Bern and showed 0.32 per cent caffeine. Securing a larger sample from near Wilmington, I found 0.27 per cent. The maté, or Paraguay tea, is also gotten from an Ilex and contains 0.63 per cent. The percentage of tannin in the yopon is rather high and I suppose has something to do with the medicinal effect."

    Dr. Curtis, an eminent botanist of North Carolina, says: "Yopon I. Cassine, Linn. An elegant shrub ten to fifteen feet high, but sometimes rising to twenty or twenty-five feet. Its native place is near the water (salt) from Virginia southward, but never far in the interior. Its dark green leaves and bright red berries make it very ornamental in yards and shrubberies. The leaves are small, one-half to one inch long, very smooth and evenly scalloped on the edges, with small rounded teeth. In some sections of the lower district, especially in the region of the Dismal Swamp, these are annually dried and used for tea, which is, however, oppressively soporific—at least for one not accustomed to it."

    Our yopon (the above) is the article from which the famous Black Drink of the Southern Indians was made. At a certain time of the year they came down in droves from a distance of several hundred miles to the coast for the leaves of this tree. They made a fire on the ground, and putting a great kettle of water on it, they threw in a large quantity of these leaves, and sitting around the fire, from a bowl holding about a pint, they began drinking large draughts, which in a short time caused them to vomit easily and freely. Thus they continued drinking and vomiting for a space of two or three days, until they had sufficiently cleansed themselves, and then, every one taking a bundle of the leaves, they all retired to their habitations.

    NOTES ON THE ARCHAEOLOGY OF NEW HANOVER COUNTY.

    BY DAVID I. BUSHNELL, JR.

    It Is with no small satisfaction that I have obtained by the courtesy of such eminent authority as that of Mr. David I. Bushnell, jr., of the Bureau of American Ethnology, who is now in Wilmington for Investigations on the vanishing race, the following paper; and Mr. Bushnell has quoted from Mr. W. B. McKoy’s valuable contributions on the same subject. I also include Dr. Joseph A. Holmes’s report upon his personal investigations of the mounds in Duplin County, and a paper by Capt. S. A. Ashe on the Indians of the Lower Cape Fear.

    In reference to the Woccon, Saxapahaw, Cape Fear, and Warrennuncock Indians, we find it stated: Of the North Carolina tribes bearing the foregoing names almost nothing is known, and of the last two even the proper names have not been recorded. The Woccon were Siouan; the Saxapahaw and Cape Fear Indians presumably were Siouan, as indicated from their associations and alliance with known Siouan tribes; while the Warrennuncock were probably some people better known under another name, although they cannot be identified.{3} Unfortunately the identity of the Cape Fear Indians has not been revealed, and it may ever remain a mystery. The name was first bestowed, by the early colonists, upon the Indians whom they found occupying the lands about the mouth of the Cape Fear River, and more especially the peninsula now forming the southern part of New Hanover County. It is also possible the term Cape Fear Indians was applied to any Indians found in the vicinity, regardless of their tribal connections, and, as will be shown later, the area was frequented by numbers of different tribes. Although the native people were often mentioned in early writings, it is doubtful whether the Indian population of the peninsula ever exceeded a few hundred.

    Evidently Indians continued to occupy the lower part of the peninsula until about the year 1725, at which time, according to a well-substantiated tradition, they were driven from the section. Roger Moore, because of his wealth and large number of slaves, was called ‘King’ Roger. There is a tradition on the Cape Fear that he and his slaves had a battle with the Indians at Sugar Loaf, nearly opposite the town of Brunswick. Governor Tryon, forty years later, mentions that the last battle with the Indians was when driving them from the Cape Fear in 1725. The tradition would seem to be well founded.{4}

    At the present time, nearly two centuries after the expulsion of the last Indian inhabitants from the peninsula, we find many traces of their early occupancy of the area. Oysters and other mollusks served as important articles of food, and vast quantities of shells, intermingled with numerous fragments of pottery of Indian make, are encountered along the mainland, facing the sounds. These masses of shells do not necessarily indicate the sites of villages, or of permanent settlements, but rather of places visited at different times by various families or persons for the purpose of gathering oysters, clams, etc. The majority of these were probably consumed on the spot, while others, following the custom of the more northern tribes, may have been dried in the smoke of the wigwam and thus preserved for future use.

    The many small pieces of pottery found, mingled with the shells, are pieces of vessels, probably cooking utensils, of the Indians. Many pieces bear on their outer or convex surfaces the imprint of twisted cords; other fragments show the impressions of basketry. In a paper read before the Historical and Scientific Society, June 3, 1878, Mr. W. B. McKoy described this stage of pottery-making, after the clay had been properly prepared: The mortar is then pressed by the hand on the inside of a hastily constructed basket of wickerwork and allowed to dry for a while; the basket is then inverted over a large fire of pitch pine and the pot is gradually hardened and blackened by the smoke, having the appearance of a thick iron pot. By constant use afterwards the particles of carbon that have entered the pores of the clay are burnt out and then the pot has a red appearance.{5} Fragments occur upon which the designs are characteristic of pottery from the interior and farther south; other pieces are undoubtedly the work of the southern Algonquin tribes. Within a radius of about one hundred miles were tribes of the Algonquin, Siouan, and Iroquoian stocks. Small parties of the different tribes were ever moving from place to place, and it is within reason to suppose that members of the various tribes, from time to time, visited the Cape Fear peninsula; thus explaining the presence of the variety of pottery discovered among the shell-heaps on the shore of the sound.

    The most interesting village site yet examined is located about one and one-half miles south of Myrtle Sound, three miles north of the ruins of Fort Fisher, and less than one hundred yards from the sea beach. Three small shell-mounds are standing near the center of the area. The largest is about thirty inches in height and twenty feet in diameter. Quantities of pottery are scattered about on the surface, and a few pieces of stone are to be found. Sugar Loaf is less than one mile from this site in a north-westerly direction. Here, in the vicinity of the three shell-mounds, was probably the last Indian settlement on the peninsula.

    A level area of several acres at the end of Myrtle Sound was likewise

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